Jump to content

Historic Boats for sale online


alan_fincher

Featured Posts

The advert actually states the beam to be "6.10 ft", which I interpreted as 6ft 10in given that 6.10 is an odd way of expressing a number of feet in imperial units.

 

Whether or not this includes the rope fender is not clear.

 

Perhaps it was a narrower icebreaker hull though, only 6.1ft beam. Isn't there one about only 5ft beam?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

smiley_offtopic.gif As a complete aside, I keep seeing things like "CRT licence until Juy 2017", so obviously the massage that CRT licences are not transferable when you sell a boat is still not known by many people.

 

 

Yes I keep noticing that too. Easily sidestepped by the seller 'forgetting' to tell CRT they've sold it until up for renewal though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

It didn't seem to be an issue.

 

We saw it on the descent from Etruria through Stoke on Trent.

 

i suspect that the rope fendering is actually low enough down on the shaped hull to not massively increase beam, (which is anyway quoted at 6' 1o" not 7').

 

This picture suggests it still isn't held very far from the sides. (From this blog post).

 

DSCF9433.JPG

Sadly, this photo does not give the true picture.

 

At that location the waling to those heavy piles is a length of railway rail meaning that the rope has a gap under the rail at least 6" deep in which to hide itself.

 

Lovely boat nevertheless.

 

George ex nb Alton retired

Link to comment
Share on other sites

smiley_offtopic.gif As a complete aside, I keep seeing things like "CRT licence until Juy 2017", so obviously the massage that CRT licences are not transferable when you sell a boat is still not known by many people.

We didnt nore did the sellers but we had put it in as an agreement of the sale so we were given the refunded licance money and got a new licance ourselves

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I suppose that interesting lump of gubbins hanging off the back end covers the propeller?

Could it be an outdrive unit?

Whichever, I guess it means the only alteration to the hull will be an 'ole for a shaft to exit from.

 

Much better than hacking a step into the stern post and adding anti-cavitation plates, or chopping the back off to fit a counter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sadly, this photo does not give the true picture.

 

At that location the waling to those heavy piles is a length of railway rail meaning that the rope has a gap under the rail at least 6" deep in which to hide itself.

 

Of course you are quite correct, George.

 

Should have looked closely at what I was posting.

 

I'm assuming that overall there is no issue with narrow locks, so assume the hull is not particularly wide.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

As it's between the slashes, I read that as them meaning 1/4" and 6mm are equivalent.

 

You may be right Mike, but it's not very clear at all, as it's all in mm, and after the first number in mm they put the 1/4in between brackets.

 

I would think that they the thickness of the bottom-plating would be the most important to list, and why create confusion by only giving the messurement of one in inches ?

 

Peter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would imagine it's had a new bottom in 10mm steel with the original sides at a 1/4" steel with 4mm cabin sides and roof.

 

Darren

 

 

Agreed, very odd.

 

Possibly typed up by an office bod not that familiar with boats, and just typing up what the seller was telling him.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would imagine it's had a new bottom in 10mm steel with the original sides at a 1/4" steel with 4mm cabin sides and roof.

 

Darren

 

That looks like a possible explanation, If I had written this part, I would have either added that the boat had a new(ish) 10mm bottom, or just given all the plate dimensions in both messurements : 10 / 6 / 4 / 4 / ( 3/8" / 1/4" / 1/6" / 1/6" ) to avoid confusion.

 

Peter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

That looks like a possible explanation, If I had written this part, I would have either added that the boat had a new(ish) 10mm bottom, or just given all the plate dimensions in both messurements : 10 / 6 / 4 / 4 / ( 3/8" / 1/4" / 1/6" / 1/6" ) to avoid confusion.

 

Peter.

 

 

Ah but that would have perhaps illustrated just how little of the boat is actually historic!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

That looks like a possible explanation, If I had written this part, I would have either added that the boat had a new(ish) 10mm bottom, or just given all the plate dimensions in both messurements : 10 / 6 / 4 / 4 / ( 3/8" / 1/4" / 1/6" / 1/6" ) to avoid confusion.

 

Peter.

deleted as I read 1/6 as 1/16 Edited by Loddon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think Darren has it right. Originally the whole hull was 1/4",so strictly that I'd what any surviving sides are, but they are saying it is effectively the same as 6mm. The bottom, on the other hand has been replaced in 10mm steel, so is genuine ly metric.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replaced - does that mean cut out and new material welded in properly or just doubled/overplated? I would definitely prefer a historic boat which had been rebottomed and refooted by cutting out all old material from just above the waterline rather than simply overplated. Fortunately a lot of old narrow boats have had proper work done but by no means all of them.

 

Of course removing old material reduces the historic validity of the boat in some ways but overplating is storing up trouble IMO.

Edited by magnetman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Replaced - does that mean cut out and new material welded in properly or just doubled/overplated? I would definitely prefer a historic boat which had been rebottomed and refooted by cutting out all old material from just above the waterline rather than simply overplated. Fortunately a lot of old narrow boats have had proper work done but by no means all of them.

Of course removing old material reduces the historic validity of the boat in some ways but overplating is storing up trouble IMO.

A historic working boat can be replated; a leisure boat will generally be overplated. Both are dependent upon the quality of the welding but then so is a new build. I think rather too much is made of this issue. I will change my mind only if my boat sinks before I die.

 

JP

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fortunately a lot of old narrow boats have had proper work done but by no means all of them.

 

Define "proper"?

I am actually currently bringing Sickle home from extensive hull repairs at one of the very most respected yards specialising in such work.

The majority has been done by cutting out and replacing, but for certain areas the specialist surveyor has specified overplaying, so that is how it has been done, (for very valid reasons).

I don't think any of what has been done is "not proper".

The bow of Sickle has incidentally had two layers of plate all over for the last 74 years, since it was doubled up in 1942 for extra strength to break ice - even now it still seems "proper"!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Define "proper"?

I am actually currently bringing Sickle home from extensive hull repairs at one of the very most respected yards specialising in such work.

The majority has been done by cutting out and replacing, but for certain areas the specialist surveyor has specified overplaying, so that is how it has been done, (for very valid reasons).

I don't think any of what has been done is "not proper".

The bow of Sickle has incidentally had two layers of plate all over for the last 74 years, since it was doubled up in 1942 for extra strength to break ice - even now it still seems "proper"!

 

 

I'm not sure that overplaying is ever a good idea!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.