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Jrtm

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Everywere
  • Occupation
    Mechanic
  • Boat Name
    Towy
  • Boat Location
    All over

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  1. Hope it was rebuild correctly, if was slipping did they recut the casing and cone to eachother, mine had been slipping and put a odd lip/ wear marks on the casing. Had to have it all ground ro rematch, Throwing a new cone in dosnt always work as the cones can be diffrent. But least you found problem
  2. Most of the nationals have probably been rebuild a good few times by now be it some very worn parts in places, I can't comment on my pitch as I've never checked but did check size. The blade I have be it not in the best condition or sharpest blade, gives very good stopping power (when the gearbox didn't slip) will be interesting to see what the new engine will be like as its near all new and what hasn't been replaced is very very near new or been refurbished. Top end I do struggle to get any extra power down but i also have a very deep draft, on a shot engine on river I was able to very well keep up infact slightly quicker than a 59 foot boat with near new fr2 engine and box. If was buying a new one I would go 24inch with 21-24 pitch just as I find my tickover quite fast (can't/ couldn't reduce the rpm as the starting rachet would start to click)
  3. After another brass one, pref a dunton + but think brass only came in short,
  4. I know its an old thread but I'm looking for another always keep my eyes out. Yes I should have bought 2 a few years ago but to your above Yes they made a brass one (have one very heavy but very nice) I also have a brass version of the single small hole one too. Sold very cheap (£15 new off the shelf) a few years ago at a boat mooring chandler can't remember where now. I also have a 90s dunton ally one (it's mine no one else can use it) my parents gave it to me.
  5. Sorry I know its an old thread but I now know how this box works how it should be shimmed and you can adjust some bits but most is pre set by the main shaft, you can also if build correctly put a seal both inside and on outside of the silver bearing holder and completely seal off the gearbox and reduction box. You can also do away with alot of the bronze bearings and run high pressure needle rollers and remove all the resistance in the box. I also found that the front bearing on the crankshaft and the one at the back near the small reduction gear must be kept in good condition if not these will affect how the reverse cone engages (or not). I believe this is what use to cause my reverse problem and I spoke to a guy the other day who's rear bearing has collapsed and he suddenly lost reverse.
  6. Pos putting in a order to my brother in law for more liners is anyone interested in any before order gets placed as metal is on back order so need to pre order metal. There £320 each delivered fully machined ready to fit strait into a national tower. Believe rn ones are £300+ vat and will require machining to fit a national tower. Lead time is 8-9weeks due to metal.
  7. Thought it was quite well priced and if I could would have been strait in there. A really nice boat and right up my street not so keen on engine but it's still a really nice boat and good price
  8. Yer I'm not sure if was a gu boat or not?? Seamed odd it was a gloss red, it's not the undercoat red they got sent in it's was def gloss
  9. Hi guys hope someone can help anyone got any info on engine number 31343? Don't know if it's a gu number or not but it's stamped all over my gearbox, odd thing is my box and engine were a built lump that got put in late 60s very early 70s, as far as I know it only had 1 full engine rebuild in this time, now the odd bit the box was originally red, there were 3 layers of colour on my box green I put on green mid brunswick then odd patches of gloss red under this mostly in the really hard to get areas, so I'm guessing it had had a back to near metal paint job although some bits were ov hard to get at and got missed I didn't miss these bits. So engine number 31343 And second why red?
  10. I have a lorry auto flywheel and a rx7 auto flywheel. As both had correct direction flywheel and starter motor and over 2kw as I'm putting my starter motor under the bolinder fuel tank so it sits forward of the engine not to the side like normal
  11. I'm currently fitting a starter ring gear that bolts on all adapters made will go with a 2kw starter motor, you can take most starter motors and have a new gear put on them so you could use a lorry one, and convert to fit, Mine is being made as bolt on so only machine work was a few days in the lathe, I'll take pics if wanted, my plan is to turn by hand then kick starter in to start. Use decomposition levers still so your only turning over semi weight to speed not dead start.
  12. Good work on the boat, I'm really glad to see someone else put in the effort by themselves and get stuck in and save a wooden boat rather than the oooooo it's 100k job that. You should be really proud of what you have done! Glad your also back to work!
  13. There not matts pics or at least the ones he used to sell them, and it's not moored at there's either
  14. Well it's been a while and thought would do an update will add photos later but after towys engine being 3/4 finished was just water and oil lines left, I ended up with a boot full (Car was on its arse wouldn't have got down back roads) On this it ment I decided to fully remove the engine. Her engine has now had the following done. 1 x Brand new cylinder head fully built up. X2 good cylinder heads fully stripped and rebuild using all new parts (while was at it decided to rebuild a spare has had enough new bits) Brand new national tower with new liners, new pistons with rings new national rods and bearings (original type that need the big end bolting and shimming to the rods) Very low used water pump housing with new internals (one side was new never used one side had very little use but had a new one made using new old parts as copies) New water pump pistons, rods, shafts, seals, electrics, gear housing has had all new bearings, has been converted to a sealed unit as 1 of the things I found looking at the gear housings I have is they very quickly and easily block on the oil feeds and there is a very poor design on the input as it has to run round the outside of the shaft bearing to get to the rest of the pump this blocks up and no oil get to the water pump gear housing. This problem has been removed and will run on gear oil. Only part old is the bilge pump engaging ring. Fully rebuild govenor using 3/4 new parts, all other parts have been replaced or fully stripped remachined refurbished and extra bearings added to remove wear & future wear and ease of repair in future, only the casing & the speed control arm (to the speed control leverback cabin) have not been replaced or repaired but new bearings have been fitted in housing. Fully refurbished drive shaft for water pump - governor. Refurbished cam shafts, 1 has new lobs fitted other has had new lobes in past so these were cleaned up. New bearing in camshaft holder (timing chain end) fly wheel camshaft holders have been replaced with new parts and a manual oil feed added as the originals have now oil feeds the just work on oil falling down and praying it lands on the very small very shallow cup to lube, this has been made into a big cup but as said manual oil feed added so can be filled with oil, has had the end caps removed and a 1/4 bsp bit added with a inner washer to remove bearing in future if required. Oil pump been fully refurbished with new shafts and bearing, the bearings have been replaced with oilite bearings as the stock again just works on a small grove and oil off the timing chain splashing oil at it, it has also had the oil feed from the water pump relocated to the oil pump shaft and a drain hole added so it gets an oil feed another fault that's common as the original has effectively no oil getting to the bearings. So far all other bearings have been replaced and all other oil lines and feeds have been replaced. 1/2 the engine is now ready to have gaskets made and then ready for test fits to check end float on all shafts and shims and new thrust rollers can be ordered. Once this is done will be onto new white metal bearings (12kg of lms loco white metal is ready to make new bearings from) Then it's onto gearbox full rebuild (has already had new reduction gears and bearings replaced) will have all gears and bearings replaced and both drive cones and housings be recut to match to remove and lips or scoring.
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