Jrtm

After having struggled to get parts it was taken upon myself to build and replace parts for the National engine. Due to this if anyone is interested in parts please let me know. I can supply most parts new odd part can be reconditioned. .Liners (to original spec with a plate and sealing ring) .Liner sealing plate .Camshafts (shafts not lobes) the lobes can be swapped over but the bearings tend to ware the shafts causing them to oval .Camshaft bearing holders for either end (steel or ally) designed for either roller or bronze bearing, these can also be modded to not require a end blank like the stock ones or can be made for a blank to be fitted .Camshaft lifters .Push rods .Able to rebuild gearbox with bearings rather than bronze (the stock setup requires 1 bearing to have 3 rotation movements on it, by replacing to bearings each movement gets its own bearing .Replacement gearbox to reduction box central bearing .Repair gearbox shafts these tend to get very worn .rebuilt oil pumps with new internals .Engine to oil pump shaft (often in very poor condition) .Reconditioned water pump to govenor shaft .Injector pump lifters .Fully reconditioned cylinder heads with new shafts, bored rockers to match new shafts (some rockers require a liner fitting if they have been bored in the past, if they haven't been bored before can either bore and leave as cast or fit a liner) .New front Crankshaft seals built sim spec as originally fitted (some have had the seal retaining plates removed and just a felt seal put in. The replacements refit that plate and refitted with new felt seals. There are several other items that can be replaced / reconditioned please contact me if intresed in any parts, I will add some photos soon of some of the replacement parts that have been made. Please note I also have .A few good but second hand cylinder heads. .New 1961 ally pistons with correct compression rings (should have 2 different rings fitted 1 & 3 the same, middle is different)and 2 oil rings, new gudgeon pin and clips. (Please note new pistons ordered from rn come with 3 compression rings the same (these work but I not as originally designed)

Hope it was rebuild correctly, if was slipping did they recut the casing and cone to eachother, mine had been slipping and put a odd lip/ wear marks on the casing. Had to have it all ground ro rematch, Throwing a new cone in dosnt always work as the cones can be diffrent. But least you found problem

Most of the nationals have probably been rebuild a good few times by now be it some very worn parts in places, I can't comment on my pitch as I've never checked but did check size. The blade I have be it not in the best condition or sharpest blade, gives very good stopping power (when the gearbox didn't slip) will be interesting to see what the new engine will be like as its near all new and what hasn't been replaced is very very near new or been refurbished. Top end I do struggle to get any extra power down but i also have a very deep draft, on a shot engine on river I was able to very well keep up infact slightly quicker than a 59 foot boat with near new fr2 engine and box. If was buying a new one I would go 24inch with 21-24 pitch just as I find my tickover quite fast (can't/ couldn't reduce the rpm as the starting rachet would start to click)

After another brass one, pref a dunton + but think brass only came in short,

I know its an old thread but I'm looking for another always keep my eyes out. Yes I should have bought 2 a few years ago but to your above Yes they made a brass one (have one very heavy but very nice) I also have a brass version of the single small hole one too. Sold very cheap (£15 new off the shelf) a few years ago at a boat mooring chandler can't remember where now. I also have a 90s dunton ally one (it's mine no one else can use it) my parents gave it to me.

Sorry I know its an old thread but I now know how this box works how it should be shimmed and you can adjust some bits but most is pre set by the main shaft, you can also if build correctly put a seal both inside and on outside of the silver bearing holder and completely seal off the gearbox and reduction box. You can also do away with alot of the bronze bearings and run high pressure needle rollers and remove all the resistance in the box. I also found that the front bearing on the crankshaft and the one at the back near the small reduction gear must be kept in good condition if not these will affect how the reverse cone engages (or not). I believe this is what use to cause my reverse problem and I spoke to a guy the other day who's rear bearing has collapsed and he suddenly lost reverse.

Pos putting in a order to my brother in law for more liners is anyone interested in any before order gets placed as metal is on back order so need to pre order metal. There £320 each delivered fully machined ready to fit strait into a national tower. Believe rn ones are £300+ vat and will require machining to fit a national tower. Lead time is 8-9weeks due to metal.

Thought it was quite well priced and if I could would have been strait in there. A really nice boat and right up my street not so keen on engine but it's still a really nice boat and good price

Yer I'm not sure if was a gu boat or not?? Seamed odd it was a gloss red, it's not the undercoat red they got sent in it's was def gloss

Hi guys hope someone can help anyone got any info on engine number 31343? Don't know if it's a gu number or not but it's stamped all over my gearbox, odd thing is my box and engine were a built lump that got put in late 60s very early 70s, as far as I know it only had 1 full engine rebuild in this time, now the odd bit the box was originally red, there were 3 layers of colour on my box green I put on green mid brunswick then odd patches of gloss red under this mostly in the really hard to get areas, so I'm guessing it had had a back to near metal paint job although some bits were ov hard to get at and got missed I didn't miss these bits. So engine number 31343 And second why red?

I have a lorry auto flywheel and a rx7 auto flywheel. As both had correct direction flywheel and starter motor and over 2kw as I'm putting my starter motor under the bolinder fuel tank so it sits forward of the engine not to the side like normal

I'm currently fitting a starter ring gear that bolts on all adapters made will go with a 2kw starter motor, you can take most starter motors and have a new gear put on them so you could use a lorry one, and convert to fit, Mine is being made as bolt on so only machine work was a few days in the lathe, I'll take pics if wanted, my plan is to turn by hand then kick starter in to start. Use decomposition levers still so your only turning over semi weight to speed not dead start.

Good work on the boat, I'm really glad to see someone else put in the effort by themselves and get stuck in and save a wooden boat rather than the oooooo it's 100k job that. You should be really proud of what you have done! Glad your also back to work!

Pm me please

There not matts pics or at least the ones he used to sell them, and it's not moored at there's either