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Single handed operation at locks.


hawkers

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Hi - is it feasible to walk a boat into a lock where you want to ascend? Then walk a boat out of a lock when going downhill? I want to avoid using the lock ladders if at all possible. I guess you might say in some locks yes and others no, but I'd appreciate your thoughts on avoiding the ladders.

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Hi - is it feasible to walk a boat into a lock where you want to ascend? Then walk a boat out of a lock when going downhill? I want to avoid using the lock ladders if at all possible. I guess you might say in some locks yes and others no, but I'd appreciate your thoughts on avoiding the ladders.

 

Pretty much spot on - it is possible at a lot of locks but it does very much depend on layout and any other adjacent structures such as walkways and bridges.

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Pretty much spot on - it is possible at a lot of locks but it does very much depend on layout and any other adjacent structures such as walkways and bridges.

 

It's not so much the walkways and bridges - there are ways of circumventing them - but the shape of the lock tail of big locks, especially giving onto rivers, makes it unavoidable to use a ladder. Having said that, of the 200-odd locks I've been through since April, I've only had to descend about 3 or 4 ladders (I don't mind climbing them).

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Hi - is it feasible to walk a boat into a lock where you want to ascend? Then walk a boat out of a lock when going downhill? I want to avoid using the lock ladders if at all possible. I guess you might say in some locks yes and others no, but I'd appreciate your thoughts on avoiding the ladders.

 

Going up in a wide lock, let the boat drift in, while you step off and go up the steps. Use the hopefully useful bollards to bring the boat to a stop, and then tie it forwards to hold it on the cill. Also, you could climb the gate as the boat enters, saves going up the laders - remember they are a recent addition!

 

Going down in a wide lock - jump! Though I draw the line at Denham Deep! or use a gate line (really needs a mast to pull from).

 

Narrow locks, leave the boat in gear, jump off at the bottom and use the paddle to stop the boat (easier with a deep drafted boat I admit), or going downhill leave it running against the bottom gates, and step on as the boat leaves the lock on its own!

 

Cheers,

 

Mike

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Going up in a wide lock, let the boat drift in, while you step off and go up the steps.

 

Mike

 

If they exist - most of the C&H locks don't have steps. And even if they do, I've come to the conclusion that I'm safer climbing a ladder than stepping off onto a set of slippery overgrown steps - at least I've got both hands holding as well as feet. I wear a pair of rigger gloves for slippery rungs.

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If they exist - most of the C&H locks don't have steps. And even if they do, I've come to the conclusion that I'm safer climbing a ladder than stepping off onto a set of slippery overgrown steps - at least I've got both hands holding as well as feet. I wear a pair of rigger gloves for slippery rungs.

 

Our EA man is not allowed to touch the bottom gates at Sutton for effin elfin safety reasons.

 

He told me about one visiting boater who came up here solo, and only had one arm.

 

He felt bad about telling the bloke that he couldn't help him. The guy managed the lock ladder, paddle gear and the gates without much problem, though how, I've no idea.

 

Tone

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On ascending, if the gates were open I used to step off my old NB at the entrance to some locks and let the boat slowly slide in (in neutral), while climbing the steps and taking the centre rope over the balance beam. Then, if the boat was still moving forward I'd stop it on a bollard. However, the staircases on some locks go out at right angles so trying to step off and do the same thing would be pretty difficult. Doing this going downhill should be no problem at all.

 

I never do this manouvre on my widebeam and always use the ladders, because at 32 tonnes even moving slowly it's got too much momentum, so it needs to be brought to a complete stop with the engine.

Edited by blackrose
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When no one is watching, and if possible, I step off (with line in hand) as the boat enters the lock when ascending. Again, if ascending, the prop will be left in gear at a very slow tickover and I use the paddle to prevent the boat bumping too hard. After ascending, I step back aboard as the boat leaves the lock and put the prop in reverse while I step ashore to close the gate(s) - usually this will ensure that the boat comes back to me so that I can step back aboard immediately the gate is closed - sometimes I get this wrong but, so far, no damage has been done :(

 

When the above is not possible (or when someone from BW is watching), I prefer to drive the boat in and leave it out of gear before climbing out (with line in hand) by whatever means are provided. If this means negotiating those foul and slippery ladders, so be it!

 

After descending, I usually jump down to get back aboard after opening the mitre gates and closing the paddles. I then use the boat hook to close the gates just after I have passed through - again, sometimes I get this wrong and sometimes the gates open again after I have left the lock . . .

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  • 1 year later...

timing is everything with this. Give it as much momentum as you need to enter. Big long centre line and stop it on a bollard.

Doing it right saves a ladder but classic fails from people i know have resulted in.

 

pulling out a bollard from its ancor point. (that one was me)

pulling the rail off the lock gate.

 

depends on how much weight you are bringing into the lock and at what speed.

 

the mast line thing is quite a nice trick and if you are that against ladders may be worth installing one. But best way to avoid looking like an idiot or hurting yourself in the long run is to use the ladders.

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I wonder why the OP is so against using ladders. IMHO the ladders are there to make things easier. Generally I have no need to use ladders on lock less than 7' deep, I just step on and off the roof. On deeper locks I use the ladders because it seems easier and safer than any other method.

Edited by Dave_P
  • Greenie 1
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I know its supposed to work for boats which are longer (therefore when you step off the back, the nose is nearer the cill) and/or deeper draughted (therefore the boat slows significantly if its left to 'walk' into a lock in neutral or idle forwards) but I'd definitely not do this again, after having tried it a few times in our boat. It hits the cill too hard for comfort.

 

So, that leaves 3 ways to get on/off a boat when its in a lock at the bottom:

 

Ladder

Use a rope to pull it in

Get on/off the roof

 

Ladder - so long as the lock has one (Beeston Iron lock, and a few others eg C&H as mentioned don't);

Rope - unless there's a tail bridge, in which case you need to swing the rope under it, which is a PITA

Roof - except if the lock is too deep. (Beeston Iron lock, is just a touch too deep for me to get on/off the roof safely).

 

Using a rope to haul it in will always work, if you can get the knack of swinging the rope under the tailbridge.

 

(Some locks have a tailbridge with a small gap in the middle - for this very reason!)

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I wonder why the OP is so against using ladders. IMHO the ladders are there to make things easier. Generally I have no need to use ladders on lock less than 7' deep, I just step on and off the roof. On deeper locks I use the ladders because it seems easier and safer than any other method.

 

I agree - never had a problem using ladders.

 

Alex

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I'd like to see you do Beeston Iron lock singlehanded.

I don't know it. Is it wide or narrow? Is it like the Bath Deep Lock? The turf sided ones on the Eastern K&A?

 

Just googled it. Looks fairly routine to me. Try single handing your boat up the Bath Deep Lock...

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I never use ladders but I let the boat walk itself into the lock.

Not if there is a big stone bridge in front of it. Or a river/bywash/weir in front of it. And the approach has an added angle to it.

 

The K&A is a bugger to do single handed.

 

To be honest, and speaking as a regular locker of some pretty tricky locks, I find the casual advice to 'walk the boat in by itself', 'climb the gate', and 'jump' a bit worrying. Climbing the gate? When your single handing? Like in run to the front of the boat, and try to scramble up the gate with 20 tonns of boat pushing up behind you? With no one on the controls?

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In common with many i walk my boat into and out of locks when i'm single handed. However, i've just received my insurance renewal (Saga) and note the following exclusion. "Loss, damage, liability or expense arising while such vessel or boat(s) is underway unless the Insured or other competent person authorised by the insured is on board and is in control of such vessel or boat". My reading of this is that whenever i step off the boat, unless it's stationary it's uninsured. Does anyone else have a similar clause in their insurance?

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I'd like to see you do Beeston Iron lock singlehanded.

 

 

I had no problems at all. Jumped onto the roof going down and another boat's crew worked the lock for me coming upbiggrin.png

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I don't know (but I presume so), but why would you leave your boat unattended, whilst it is underway? Would you get out of your car, whilst you are parking it?

 

Its just like letting your car (with a big soft bumper) roll slowly into a very strong garage - no harm done and it can only park its self frusty.gif

 

Alex

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