Narrowboat centre line

[RLWP]

If I should be single handing, I'd be trying to shove the bow into the mouth of the lock and tying off the stern line. Never mind messing about with centrelines - that's only for waiting for my crew.

 

Richard

 

 

<snip>

Going uphill (if there is no boat coming down) I would gently place the boat in the mitre of the bottom gates and leave the engine in forward gear. I think we need a new thread ..................

 

I don't think so. We seem to be in agreement here

 

Richard

[PhilR]

I don't think so. We seem to be in agreement here

 

Richard

 

I type too slowly these days!!

[FadeToScarlet]

I'll possibly be burnt as a heretic, but...

 

I use my centreline on the Nene, when both ascending and descending a lock despite the locks being incredibly fierce, being often deep with flow over the top gates and massive paddles.

 

I've a long line, and the drill is to come in on the right hand side of the lock where the steerer steps off with centreline and climbs the ladder. Line is tied with a boatman's hitch to a bollard level with stern. Steerer descends and puts boat in tickover against the rope, then helps work the lock.

 

Even with the massively fierce currents possible in some locks, the boat is held against the wall by the engine and centre rope.

Edited January 11, 2011 by FadeToScarlet

[MoominPapa]

Even with the massively fierce currents possible in some locks, the boat is held against the wall by the engine and centre rope.

I think I'd be worried about holding a narrowboat firmly against the side of a Nene lock like that because of the chains and associated bolts. I've heard of baseplates hanging up on those so I try and keep the boat anywhere but hard against a wall.

 

I normally use a single rope from the stern dolly to the last bollard; that controls the forward movement that comes from gate paddle flows bouncing off the bottom gate and throwing the boat forward. It also allows the steerer to hold the stern next to the ladder for retrieval of lock crew when descending, quick getaway is possible when you're allowed to leave the guillotine up.

 

MP.

[J R]

I'll possibly be burnt as a heretic, but...

 

I use my centreline on the Nene, when both ascending and descending a lock despite the locks being incredibly fierce, being often deep with flow over the top gates and massive paddles.

 

I've a long line, and the drill is to come in on the right hand side of the lock where the steerer steps off with centreline and climbs the ladder. Line is tied with a boatman's hitch to a bollard level with stern. Steerer descends and puts boat in tickover against the rope, then helps work the lock.

 

Even with the massively fierce currents possible in some locks, the boat is held against the wall by the engine and centre rope.

 

I never have the engine in tick over when there is a single boat in the lock due to lack of control potentially when using the centre line (with or without crew assisting). When cruising solo do as above, without the engine in gear, and in fierce locks open the offside paddle a couple of inches and let the lock fill until such time as the fierce flow subsides and the paddle cane be fully opened or both of them. Never got my head around the fact that there is no reasonable time limit on going through a lock. If going into a lock with another boat always go second, especially with hire boats as by the time they have jinked around and got into position, bless them (we all started somewhere), one can slide in and lock through keeping the bow and stern away from the gates as the lock fills. If cruising with experienced boaters we go in in tandem which works part/some of the time! Its a contact sport and there is spare paint available. Looks like we all have our own pet ways of locking through, so which ever way if it works for you, hey, do it.

[MoominPapa]

and in fierce locks open the offside paddle a couple of inches and let the lock fill until such time as the fierce flow subsides and the paddle cane be fully opened or both of them.

Nene locks are a bit different to canal locks, which makes this (normally good) advice less valid. They fill through gate paddles which are below water level (so no flooding risks from them) but the flows rip backwards and then bounces off the flat guillotine gate and tend to push boats quite violently forward. The top gates have anything up to six inches depth of water cascading over the top, so that can cause a flooding risk if the boat moves forward.

 

MP.

 

This gives you an idea of the problem.

 

[kienik]

i use my centre line all the time as i am generally single handed when out and about, my NB is only 23 feet long and some would say that i dont need to use it, well i find it absolutely imperative to have a centre line as i hate having to wrestle with the boat when mooring up or when at locks etc.

 

Also i use it when i turn my boat around (i do it with out the use of the engine), i can simply push the bow out in to the canal and guide the boat round using the stern taff rail, i also keep the centre line in hand so that i have a bit of a "safety net" when turning it around.

 

I have recently fitted an additional centre line so that i now have two lines, one is on the port side and the other on the starboard, i ALWAYS make sure that they are unwound and sit on the cabin roof as mear to the "driving" position as possible, so when i come to a lock or mooring spot i simply put the pointy end into the bank, take the boat out of gear and walk along the gunwhales with the centre line in hand and jump off and pull the boat in too the bank.

 

Not really comfortable with using the centre line when mooring below as it empties as ive tried this before on hire boats and the boat lists quite frightegnly!!, so now i generally pull up at a lock landing and tie the bown and stern ropes (sufficiently loose of course), then take the boat into the lock and hold it with either the engine (if i have crew) of held manually if i dont.

 

imho centre lines are fantastic and i wouldnt ever go out without having my two centre lines attached.

 

Dont think i would use them for mooring up but as a tool for assisting with holding the boat at the mid point they are absolutely invaluable.

 

Just my opinion of course

 

Nik

 

P.s. have you ever watched someone trying to moor their boat without using the centre line, they firstly bang the pin into the bank then tie the stern on to it, then run to the front to tie the pointy end to the bank, doesnt quite work as generally they tie the stern end too tight and the bow wont come in, so it ends up in having to run to the stern to release some tension, a viscious circle in my opinion, centre lines.................................... bring it on!!

[Keeping Up]

I always use my centre line when going up in the Nene locks; I've never had any problems with snagging on the bolts when ascending though I've had some massive problems when descending if the water is a long way over the top gates so that the flow holds the boat tight against the side.

[Québec]

[snip] If, like us, you have lots of inconvenient vents on the roof, it makes sense to have two permanently attached centre lines, when cruising. One can then lay down the left side of the roof towards the steerer, and the other to the right, so that when you step off you don't then find it's the wrong side of a mushroom.

 

That's exactly what we do and why. The ends of each rope coiled neatly ('ish) within easy reach of the steerer, so can either jump off myself or throw to the OH on the bank.

[Naughty Cal]

I never have the engine in tick over when there is a single boat in the lock due to lack of control potentially when using the centre line (with or without crew assisting). When cruising solo do as above, without the engine in gear, and in fierce locks open the offside paddle a couple of inches and let the lock fill until such time as the fierce flow subsides and the paddle cane be fully opened or both of them. Never got my head around the fact that there is no reasonable time limit on going through a lock. If going into a lock with another boat always go second, especially with hire boats as by the time they have jinked around and got into position, bless them (we all started somewhere), one can slide in and lock through keeping the bow and stern away from the gates as the lock fills. If cruising with experienced boaters we go in in tandem which works part/some of the time! Its a contact sport and there is spare paint available. Looks like we all have our own pet ways of locking through, so which ever way if it works for you, hey, do it.

 

No it isnt.

[blodger]

No it isnt.

A contact sport, that is.

 

Try as you will to keep the paint on your runbbing strake you will not succeed.

 

To that extent you will not succeed and it is a 'contact sport'.

[Naughty Cal]

A contact sport, that is.

 

Try as you will to keep the paint on your runbbing strake you will not succeed.

 

To that extent you will not succeed and it is a 'contact sport'.

 

I dont have any paint on my rubbing strake to rub off. It has never been painted nor is it likely to ever be painted.

 

"Its a contact sport" is the tag line of those who have never bothered to learn how to drive/use their boat properly and safely.

[mayalld]

I dont have any paint on my rubbing strake to rub off. It has never been painted nor is it likely to ever be painted.

 

"Its a contact sport" is the tag line of those who have never bothered to learn how to drive/use their boat properly and safely.

 

Well, I've now agreed with Chris Pink and Phylis in the same week.

 

I think I need a lie down...

[Doorman]

 

Do you moor on sharp bends and at junctions, too?

 

Hopefully, not too often at Fradley Junction, such a busy place in peak season.

 

In the background, you can see a boat moored actually on the mouth of the junction where the Coventry canal ends and the Trent and Mersey begins. We were told that the occupant is known locally as 'The Fradley Cuckoo'.

 

This is because errant boaters who fail to make the turn without clouting his boat, encounter a surprise opening of his side doors, followed by a load of abuse. He then retracts back into the cabin, somewhat similar to a cuckoo on a clock!

 

Mike

[Chertsey]

Nene locks are a bit different to canal locks, which makes this (normally good) advice less valid. They fill through gate paddles which are below water level (so no flooding risks from them) but the flows rip backwards and then bounces off the flat guillotine gate and tend to push boats quite violently forward. The top gates have anything up to six inches depth of water cascading over the top, so that can cause a flooding risk if the boat moves forward.

 

MP.

 

 

 

 

And you have no control over how much or how quickly to open the paddles (or whatever they call them out there).

 

For that reason I would use a rope in Nene and other big river locks but I wouldn't bother on wide canal locks; I'll accept a bit of banging about.

 

ed. to remove extraneous photo.

Edited January 12, 2011 by Chertsey

[Heffalump]

Well, I've now agreed with Chris Pink and Phylis in the same week.

 

I think I need a lie down...

 

It's okay Dave... It will be ok!!

[blackrose]

I think people talk a lot of nonsense about not using centre ropes for mooring. I've used mine for mooring for over 8 years and never had a problem. Once it saved my stern from swinging into the waterway when the (too short) mooring pin I used came out during the day when I was at work due to heavy rain saturating the ground and passing boats. The key is always to have the centre rope loose - looser than the bow and stern ropes. Then what's the problem exactly? I don't care what other people think or what BW says, I will continue to moor my boat as I see fit.

Edited January 14, 2011 by blackrose

[canaldrifter]

I think the OP was about not using the centre line only for long term mooring, although the BW instruction does not make this clear.

 

Tone

[Midnight Rider]

I think people talk a lot of nonsense about not using centre ropes for mooring. I've used mine for mooring for over 8 years and never had a problem. Once it saved my stern from swinging into the waterway when the (too short) mooring pin I used came out during the day when I was at work due to heavy rain saturating the ground and passing boats. The key is always to have the centre rope loose - looser than the bow and stern ropes. Then what's the problem exactly? I don't care what other people think or what BW says, I will continue to moor my boat as I see fit.

I agree. It can be useful in certain circumstances such as ring moorings which do not suit the length of the boat & convenient ring in the middle. As you say, not too tight.

 

Tony

[blackrose]

I think the OP was about not using the centre line only for long term mooring, although the BW instruction does not make this clear.

 

Tone

 

Long-term, short-term... what's the difference? I use mine for both.

[alan_fincher]

The key is always to have the centre rope loose - looser than the bow and stern ropes. Then what's the problem exactly?

Most people who do it do not have the centre line so loose that if the boat moves bakcwards and forwards within the limits imposed by the other two lines, it will never go tight.

 

That's the problem.

 

If you have it very loose, just as a safeguard in case one end or the other breaks loose, then I can't see a problem - it's just that most people don't do it that way - they actually make it so it takes strain as the boat moves.

 

I suspect if it can go tight a big wide beam like yours will get rocked heaps less than the average narrow boat too, if the rope does loose all its slack.

[Mac of Cygnet]

As a singlehander, I've not yet come across anyone else using a second centreline, with two permanent loops, one at the end and one half way along, which can simply be dropped over bollards at lock landings and (most) locks - no need to tie any knots. Actually, I use both loops at lock landings on rivers - belt and braces! I only use my other (long) centreline in locks where I judge my looped one not to be long enough.

 

Probably there will be people pointing out disadvantages and even dangers of this, but I have used it in literally thousands of locks and temporary mooring situations.

 

Mac

[blackrose]

Most people who do it do not have the centre line so loose that if the boat moves bakcwards and forwards within the limits imposed by the other two lines, it will never go tight.

 

That's the problem.

 

If you have it very loose, just as a safeguard in case one end or the other breaks loose, then I can't see a problem - it's just that most people don't do it that way - they actually make it so it takes strain as the boat moves.

 

I suspect if it can go tight a big wide beam like yours will get rocked heaps less than the average narrow boat too, if the rope does loose all its slack.

 

If bow and stern ropes are taken in or out at roughly 45 degrees to act as springs then the loose centre rope shouldn't need take any stress from the moving boat, but as you say, on my widebeam I'm unlikely to notice it if it did.

[canaldrifter]

Long-term, short-term... what's the difference? I use mine for both.

 

I think you missed the word 'only'. You stated you use the centre line in conjunction with bow and stern lines. I use centre line only for short term mooring, i.e. at locks. The thread was initially pointing out the dangers of doing this. The solution, generally, is keep an eye on the boat at all times if using centre line only.

 

Tone

[mykaskin]

Probably there will be people pointing out disadvantages and even dangers of this, but I have used it in literally thousands of locks and temporary mooring situations.

 

Mac

 

Doesn't seem to be, but I would advise that having a fixed loop will mean if the boat gets hung up somehow you may not be able to pull the rope off the bollard. Using a canal man's hitch will always allow this, may save you or your boat, and only takes seconds to put on or off.

 

Mike