Rear Hatch

[Ray]

Our rear hatch cover is steel and rides on brass strips either side of the hatchway via crude brass "bearings" bolted to the inner face of the sides of the cover - one bearing near each corner of the hatch cover. The bearings are basically an inch or so length of relatively large diameter brass rod. There's a tapped hole at one end into which the bolt securing the bearing to the hatch side locates. A large and deep (horizontal) slot is formed at the other end and sits astride the brass rubbing strip on the hatchway side.

 

The weight of the hatch cover creates a good deal of friction between brass bearing and brass strip - flat surface against flat surface - which we overcome by application of Vaseline. However, the Vaseltine gradually gets squeezed out and coagulates on the extremes of the bearing's slot from where it gradually gets deposited on the painted steelwork of the hatch surround leaving an unsightly residue that is difficult to shift (as the Vaseline is waterproof). It also looks unsightly and can get on clothing when people lean on the hatch side.

 

I doubt that this is a design unique to our boat and guess that all Reeves boats are similar. Does anyone else have the same problem and have they managed to overcome it by any other means? Our situation may be aggravated because the hatch sides arenot parallel and the slot in a couple of the bearings had to be opened out to ease the movement of the hatch cover when we first got the boat as a result.

[LEO]

Our rear hatch cover is steel and rides on brass strips either side of the hatchway via crude brass "bearings" bolted to the inner face of the sides of the cover - one bearing near each corner of the hatch cover. The bearings are basically an inch or so length of relatively large diameter brass rod. There's a tapped hole at one end into which the bolt securing the bearing to the hatch side locates. A large and deep (horizontal) slot is formed at the other end and sits astride the brass rubbing strip on the hatchway side.

 

The weight of the hatch cover creates a good deal of friction between brass bearing and brass strip - flat surface against flat surface - which we overcome by application of Vaseline. However, the Vaseltine gradually gets squeezed out and coagulates on the extremes of the bearing's slot from where it gradually gets deposited on the painted steelwork of the hatch surround leaving an unsightly residue that is difficult to shift (as the Vaseline is waterproof). It also looks unsightly and can get on clothing when people lean on the hatch side.

 

I doubt that this is a design unique to our boat and guess that all Reeves boats are similar. Does anyone else have the same problem and have they managed to overcome it by any other means? Our situation may be aggravated because the hatch sides arenot parallel and the slot in a couple of the bearings had to be opened out to ease the movement of the hatch cover when we first got the boat as a result.

 

 

Hi,

 

I use Silcone Spray(available at Dunelm Hemel Hempstead). Spray on liberally and allow to dry, wipe off any excess, hatch slides well for ages, repeat as required.

 

Highly recommended.

 

Leo

[Ray]

Hi,

 

I use Silcone Spray(available at Dunelm Hemel Hempstead). Spray on liberally and allow to dry, wipe off any excess, hatch slides well for ages, repeat as required.

 

Highly recommended.

 

Leo

 

Leo, thanks for the suggestion

 

My painter cursed me for buying cheap Wilko rubber mats because the rubber was inpregnated with silicone which which transferred to the deck and couldn't be removed despite some heavy washing, rubbing and sanding. The silicone contaminated a tin of paint in the process. Hence I have a dislike for anything with a silicone content.

[cotswoldsman]

Johnsons Baby Oil does the trick.

[Paul Evans]

Johnsons Baby Oil does the trick.

 

... and has other uses!

[nb Innisfree]

Our rear hatch cover is steel and rides on brass strips either side of the hatchway via crude brass "bearings" bolted to the inner face of the sides of the cover - one bearing near each corner of the hatch cover. The bearings are basically an inch or so length of relatively large diameter brass rod. There's a tapped hole at one end into which the bolt securing the bearing to the hatch side locates. A large and deep (horizontal) slot is formed at the other end and sits astride the brass rubbing strip on the hatchway side.

 

The weight of the hatch cover creates a good deal of friction between brass bearing and brass strip - flat surface against flat surface - which we overcome by application of Vaseline. However, the Vaseltine gradually gets squeezed out and coagulates on the extremes of the bearing's slot from where it gradually gets deposited on the painted steelwork of the hatch surround leaving an unsightly residue that is difficult to shift (as the Vaseline is waterproof). It also looks unsightly and can get on clothing when people lean on the hatch side.

 

I doubt that this is a design unique to our boat and guess that all Reeves boats are similar. Does anyone else have the same problem and have they managed to overcome it by any other means? Our situation may be aggravated because the hatch sides arenot parallel and the slot in a couple of the bearings had to be opened out to ease the movement of the hatch cover when we first got the boat as a result.

 

Just a suggestion but could you remove the brass rods and get the bearing surface milled back a few mils and replace with a nylon or PTFE strip with countersunk holes and screwed to the rod surface? It would make a nice dry grease free bearing.

[dor]

I've used Carnuba wax polish on mine and I've been surprised how well it stays and it makes the slide very easy to, well, slide. No silicone to mess up the paint either.

[tosher]

Just a suggestion but could you remove the brass rods and get the bearing surface milled back a few mils and replace with a nylon or PTFE strip with countersunk holes and screwed to the rod surface? It would make a nice dry grease free bearing.

 

That is what I did when converting from a lifting hatch to a sliding hatch. Flat brass strip on the hatch support frame and nylon flat strip on the underside of the hatch. Works a treat and very easy to slide.

[nb Innisfree]

That is what I did when converting from a lifting hatch to a sliding hatch. Flat brass strip on the hatch support frame and nylon flat strip on the underside of the hatch. Works a treat and very easy to slide.

 

Great minds think alike?

[Ray]

Many thanks for the comments/suggestions.

 

I'll try the Carnuba wax and/or Baby Oil options first as they're easier and quicker to implement. In the longer term I'll investigate the PTFE strip

[WotEver]

Many thanks for the comments/suggestions.

 

I'll try the Carnuba wax and/or Baby Oil options first as they're easier and quicker to implement. In the longer term I'll investigate the PTFE strip

http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/TufnolSheet/Whale/1mm/

 

Tony

[rjasmith]

I think quite a few of the "popular" shell builders use this sort of mechanism for the slide (ie 4 brass cylinders with slots cut in them sliding on "u" channel brass strip push fitted on to the edge of steel angle welded on either side of the hatchway part of the roof). Colecraft seem to use it as well as Reeves.

 

On our Colecraft shell and another one owned by friends I've found that the screws securing the cylinders to the inside the slide returns need to be kept sufficiently slack to allow the slots to rotate very slightly to accommodate any misalignment of the two steel angles as the slide is moved. This helps to keep the slide reasonably free sliding. I don't lubricate ours at all but try to keep the runner surfaces clean which seems to help.

 

I've also changed my brass screws for steel ones with heads that can't be unscrewed (I modified some coach bolts!). This is to improve both their wear capability and also the slide's security. The screws are left slightly loose but I've used Loctite to stop them getting any looser.

 

Richard

[rjasmith]

This post got me thinking a bit more about improving the running of the slide on the Colecraft/Reeves/others style of brass runners.

 

On the "proper" flat strip brass runners that are more common and traditional I imagine owners tend to keep them polished.

 

The "cheapo" runner system I and the OP has doesn't present so much brass to look at and I've never polished mine. Yesterday I gave them a quick going over with some Brasso (just the runner strips as obviously you can't get at the "cylinder" slots without some dismantling).

 

What a difference! So an answer to you Ray - forget about the vaseline etc and try polishing the runners!

 

Richard

[MikeV]

Yesterday I gave them a quick going over with some Brasso (just the runner strips as obviously you can't get at the "cylinder" slots without some dismantling).

My approach too! Just keep the brass clean and shiny and the hatch slides quite easily. I've stopped using Brasso, or any other brass cleaner, and just use extra fine abrasive foam blocks. It gives a very slight "brushed" look to brass which I quite like. I use it on the mushroom vents and tiller arm and it's quicker and much less messy than any cream or paste, although it's still advisable to wear gloves to keep your fingers clean!

[BlueStringPudding]

 

Hi,

 

I use Silcone Spray(available at Dunelm Hemel Hempstead). Spray on liberally and allow to dry, wipe off any excess, hatch slides well for ages, repeat as required.

 

Highly recommended.

 

Leo

 

I was going to suggest silicon spray. never used it on a sliding hatch but it works wonders on clingy costumes.

Edited August 25, 2010 by BlueStringPudding

[Guest User]

I was going to suggest silicon spray. never used it on a sliding hatch but it works wonders on clingy costumes.

 

... to improve slidiness or clinginess ?

[Teakbank12]

Soap is handy to aid the hatch sliding.

[BlueStringPudding]

... to improve slidiness or clinginess ?

 

To improve slidiness

[steve hayes]

On our hatch the two brass strips run directly on the wood lining inside the hatch. It used to be a bit stiff to get moving but now I clean the brass as suggested earlier but then I coat with Miracle Leisure Weather Mate Gel to stop the brass going dull, it also works as a brilliant lubricant.

[Ray]

Update.

 

We followed the advice about simply polishing the brass and have noticed a marked improvement which tapers off after a couple days. We'll stick with it for the time being and see how it goes in the longer term before we try any other remedies.

 

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.

[KeithL]

my hatch is currently running steel onto steel, and it makes a hell of a screech when i slide it open, i was thinking of using hardwood strips, has anyone done this? im just wondering how long the wood will last ?