Reommendations for Oak flooring - real wood

[Matthew Dowson]

I'm looking to buy some oak flooring - B&Q real wood had a nice colour - nice and light - but I wondered if there were any specific recommendations from recent experience. Not looking for cheap - just good stuff, so I'd appreciate any helpful comments. Thanks. Matt

[blackrose]

I'm looking to buy some oak flooring - B&Q real wood had a nice colour - nice and light - but I wondered if there were any specific recommendations from recent experience. Not looking for cheap - just good stuff, so I'd appreciate any helpful comments. Thanks. Matt

 

Is your sub-floor warm enough, because if you lay oak flooring on top (even over thin foam), it won't get much warmer.

 

Some boats have a decent air gap under the sub-floor and it stays relatively warm in winter. Other boats, including my own, do not and the floor is too cold for a wood floor.

 

If you do go for it you'll have to decide whether you want it floating or secret nailed. Floating is probably better in terms of getting it up if you need to, but whatever you do I would recommend laying it around, not under bulkheads because you'll never be able to get it up (at least not without taking the bulkhead down).

Edited March 24, 2009 by blackrose

[Boaty Jo]

We had solid oak flooring from Border Hardwoods in Wem, Shropshire (www.borderhardwood.co.uk)

 

It was all prepared to order for us and we ordered a mixture of 4 and 6 inch width to make it look more random. Our floorboard were also taken from the outer edge of the trunk which gave it a really attractive (we thought) look - in other words there was rather more grain then you would expect with oak and also a good contrast in shading.

 

I'm afraid I can't remember the name of the guy I dealt with but the timber cost me about £600 3/4 years ago to do the cabin of a 57 footer front to back. I cut and laid it myself; floating except where I had to go round inspection hatches where it was recessed screwed.

[Amwris]

I would definitely think twice before laying real wood flooring on your boat. I did it recently and now am considering ripping it up and replacing with good quality vinyl/cushion flooring. My oak looked brilliant but a couple of months into winter developed serious bowing and I have now taken it up in the kitchen area. I guess the cold underneath the floor contrasted with the warmth of the cabin (once the stove was lit}above.

 

If you do go ahead I would agree on a floating floor. Mine was secret nailed and needed a little grinder to get it up.

 

I have also been told to leave a good sized gap around the outside as the boat flexes.

 

Good luck though

 

Phil

[carlt]

Personally I would only lay quarter sawn oak planks.

 

Expensive but least likely to move and you get the lovely medullary rays to admire.

[Ex- Member]

I would float the floor on 18mm ply screwed to joists and use some of that 3mm underlay. The Oak from B&Q is engineered t&G i think, as long as you leave a gap either side for expansion and contraction about 10mm it should be fine. I laid a t&g floor in bamboo, In the gap either side I put 10mm thick neoprene strips about 3 inches long placed about every 6 inches, when the Oak/bamboo expands it will squeeze the neoprene and it will absorb the expansion. On contraction the neoprene expands as the floor contracts and keeps all the joints tight together. Do not nail or screw, any wood floor on a boat will need to move. Our bamboo is really hard and sealed but still expands and contracts about 5 to 6mm each side. I made the mistake of leaving only a 5mm gap either side and the floor bubbled up in the middle, fortunately not causing any damage, but had to be mostly removed to trim another 5 mm of either side.

Edited March 24, 2009 by Julynian

[Richard T]

Consider using a good quality vinyl such as Amtico. A lot easier to keep clean and maintain. Just think of the problems of resanding oak boards every couple of years - with the best will in the world you will track dirt and grit into the boat from the twopath which will scratch and mark timber. An industrial drum sander will be far to big to use on board so any sanding will need to be done with a belt sander and corners with an orbital and then three coats of varnish- a real b..ll ache of a job. Personally we use carpet tiles as its easy to clean or replace one that gets heavily soiled

[blackrose]

I would definitely think twice before laying real wood flooring on your boat. I did it recently and now am considering ripping it up and replacing with good quality vinyl/cushion flooring. My oak looked brilliant but a couple of months into winter developed serious bowing and I have now taken it up in the kitchen area. I guess the cold underneath the floor contrasted with the warmth of the cabin (once the stove was lit}above.

 

If you do go ahead I would agree on a floating floor. Mine was secret nailed and needed a little grinder to get it up.

 

I have also been told to leave a good sized gap around the outside as the boat flexes.

 

Good luck though

 

Phil

 

Interesting (although for you it's obviously been a PITA).

 

In theory you're not supposed to lay solid wood floors below ground level for the very reasons you describe - temperature & humidity extremes as well as differentials above & below. I guess floors below the waterline on boats also count as below ground level, although quite a lot of people have installed solid wood floors on boats and achieved some nice results with no problems.

 

For below ground level applications, 'engineered wood' is recommended instead. It's a 3 or 4mm layer of solid wood bonded to a base of ply which has much more dimensional stability.

 

Couple of links:

http://www.realoakfloors.co.uk/engineered_...od_flooring.php

http://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/Engineer...od_Flooring.htm

Edited March 25, 2009 by blackrose

[Lesd]

Interesting (although for you it's obviously been a PITA).

 

In theory you're not supposed to lay solid wood floors below ground level for the very reasons you describe - temperature & humidity extremes as well as differentials above & below. I guess floors below the waterline on boats also count as below ground level, although quite a lot of people have installed solid wood floors on boats and achieved some nice results with no problems.

 

For below ground level applications, 'engineered wood' is recommended instead. It's a 3 or 4mm layer of solid wood bonded to a base of ply which has much more dimensional stability.

 

Couple of links:

http://www.realoakfloors.co.uk/engineered_...od_flooring.php

http://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/Engineer...od_Flooring.htm

 

 

When we were planning our boat build a couple of years back we had this same discussion about solid hardwood or engineered boards or some type if plastic. Lots of pro's and cons were mentioned just as they have been here. We opted for solid oak boards in the end and so far its been great. After two winters it looks no different from when it went down apart from a few scratches here and there. Its laid directly to a ply sub floor and runs throughout the boat including kitchen and bathroom. Its had water dropped on it (quickly mopped up) and lots of water walked in by the dog etc. It has not cupped or moved. Not sure why this has reacted so differently than to the flooring mentioned iby Phil n the above ? (sorry to hear about the problems Phil)

 

Les

Edited March 25, 2009 by Lesd

[carlt]

. Not sure why this has reacted so differently than to the flooring mentioned in the above ?

 

Les

Probably because you have good quality, quarter sawn boards and a stable humidity level.

 

If the wood is milled properly then it will outlast "engineered" wood because there is no risk of delamination and you have a significantly thicker layer to sand down, should it get too dirty for conventional cleaning methods..

 

Humidity does not make wood move, a change in humidity does.

 

I had to relay the original floorboards, in my 150 year old house, when a damp proof course and central heating were installed.

 

The boards had lived quite happily, in a cold damp environment but didn't react well to being warmed up and dried out.

Edited March 25, 2009 by carlt

[Matthew Dowson]

Thanks for the comments, really helpful, I'm committed to a wood floor - and if anyone has any specific recommendations on a wood type and supplier that would be great.

[Ex- Member]

Thanks for the comments, really helpful, I'm committed to a wood floor - and if anyone has any specific recommendations on a wood type and supplier that would be great.

 

Bamboo not exactly wood but an extremely hard flooring, 9 times harder than Oak aparrently. We've had this down a couple or years kitchen (loo in photo) diner, hall bedroom. Been down whilst working on the boat hardly a scratch anywhere. This is engineered and around £20 to 25 per sq metre. 3.5 inch metre long T&G boards.

 

Most hardwoods would be ok, we came across some cherrywood and did the lounge floor in it like proper floor boards directly on to joists their 1" thick. This was from a local tree hit by lightening in Dorset, so a bit of a one off. Ideally engineered hardwood on 18mm ply though or decent t&g. Couldn't resist the Cherry wood though so laid it as a traditional floor. In the summer the gaps open releasing cool air, in winter they close up tight, but not tight enough and can be chilly to walk on bear foot.

 

Cherrywood

 

 

Bamboo

[Bat & Frog]

Interesting thread, we are considering our options for flooring and would like wood. Spoken to friend who installed solid oak on battens with celtex laid between. After 3 years only issue they have had is the floor rising in the middle due to leaving only 10mm expansion on either side. They recommended 20mm expansion either side, lost under skirting. With the insulation they have a nice warm floor in winter. I think head room may be an issue in some boats when adding 2" thick floor.

[Albion]

I'm looking to buy some oak flooring - B&Q real wood had a nice colour - nice and light - but I wondered if there were any specific recommendations from recent experience. Not looking for cheap - just good stuff, so I'd appreciate any helpful comments. Thanks. Matt

 

Nothing against solid wood flooring, had some on Albion in the galley and it was fine. The only caveat that I would make is to watch oak as a material. Don't forget that oak, although a lovely wood, will go black if it gets damp. I'm not talking about a momentary spill, quickly wiped up, but if you get a leaking door or hatch then you can moisten the floor un-noticed and oak will go black. Other timbers are not so affected as far as I am led to believe. Wood floors are also quite noisy with the footfall of humans and pets.

Roger

[sueb]

Oak goes black when it gets wet, so any dampness, condensation etc could cause discolouration.

Sue with carpet tiles

[carlt]

Oak goes black when it gets wet,

Untreated Oak goes black.

 

Varnished or oiled oak wipes clean and looks nice.

[Albion]

Untreated Oak goes black.

 

Varnished or oiled oak wipes clean and looks nice.

 

Varnishing only protects the top surface. Moisture can permeate anywhere. Varnished oak can and does go black if subject to damp.

Roger

[carlt]

Varnishing only protects the top surface. Moisture can permeate anywhere. Varnished oak can and does go black if subject to damp.

Roger

I treat all surfaces of any wood I use.

 

If regarded as protection, rather than decoration, you don't miss bits.

[dor]

Well, I used B&Q solid oak boards, the 83mm ones. They were laid about 18 months ago and look just as good now, if not better.

 

They are solid oak, 16mm I think (might be 18). The subfloor is 18mm marine ply, with standards flooring foam underlay (3mm?). The boards are laid along the length of the boat, so minimising any effects of expansion or contraction (the boards will move far more across the grain than along). I have had no problem with bowing or distortion, which I would put down to laying them properly. The wood is very well sealed by a hard varnish-type coating all round as supplied. They were loose laid, with about 5 - 10 mm expansion gap along the cabin sides, the gap covered by trim or pipe box. The tongues were glued with waterproof wood glue when laid.

 

Yes, they are colder than carpet for walking on in bare feet, but I don't find that a significant problem.

[AlanH]

I've never understood the fashion for wood flooring. To me it makes a room look like a village hall.

[Albion]

I treat all surfaces of any wood I use.

 

If regarded as protection, rather than decoration, you don't miss bits.

 

Yes, that's very thorough and will do the job. You just have to remember to treat every cut edge, reverse side, rebate and tongue before final laying. Most people are not that thorough in the heat of laying the floor. A lot of the wood is treated on the top surface and, after it has been laid and sawn to size, there are many exposed surfaces.

Don't get me wrong, I love oak as a finish, it's a lovely wood, but I had oak veneered ply on the walls in Albion and had the problem that I describe which is why I advise caution with the choice or extremely thorough surface treatment. Boat builders don't go to all the trouble of sealing every surface before they fit.

Roger

[carlt]

A lot of the wood is treated on the top surface and, after it has been laid and sawn to size, there are many exposed surfaces.

I make up my floors as "pallets" so that they can easily be lifted, for refinishing.

 

It's also useful for any hull maintenance, to be able to lift the floor away, in sections.

[churchward]

I make up my floors as "pallets" so that they can easily be lifted, for refinishing.

 

It's also useful for any hull maintenance, to be able to lift the floor away, in sections.

Now that is a first rate idea! I have toyed with the idea of relaying our floor with real wood and a modular approach sounds just right.

[carlt]

Now that is a first rate idea! I have toyed with the idea of relaying our floor with real wood and a modular approach sounds just right.

When you have wooden boats you devise ways to reach your hull quickly.

[mayalld]

I've never understood the fashion for wood flooring. To me it makes a room look like a village hall.

 

Think muddy boots