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Wire strippers


Hudds Lad

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Converting the 2D flourescents on the boat to LED, the switch wires are something like 30awg kynar. Can anyone recommend some wire strippers that will cope with this, i’ve a few to do and they’re overhead so don't fancy beggaring about with a craft knife or the crap pair i’ve got that look like big fat-bladed scissors with coloured dots on.

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13 minutes ago, Hudds Lad said:

Converting the 2D flourescents on the boat to LED, the switch wires are something like 30awg kynar. Can anyone recommend some wire strippers that will cope with this, i’ve a few to do and they’re overhead so don't fancy beggaring about with a craft knife or the crap pair i’ve got that look like big fat-bladed scissors with coloured dots on.

These are the same sort of thing I use for those jobs. Brilliant!

THESE

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If its good quality you are after I can recommend these, they are wire strippers only. Had them for several years for electronic work and would not use anything else.

They come in several wire size combinations so if you do buy, ensure you buy the size range that is right for you.  They are not cheap but are worth the cost.

 

Are you sure your conductors are 30 AWG ? seems awfully small for lighting cables!  30AWG = 0.4mm  Hover over the image on ebay to see the range

 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251934403329?epid=10006634700&hash=item3aa875eb01:g:-H0AAOSwgFdhcpHh

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261143978239?epid=1609172951&hash=item3ccd64e0ff:g:K0cAAOSwjVphcplf

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2 hours ago, Rincewind said:

Are you sure your conductors are 30 AWG ? seems awfully small for lighting cables!  30AWG = 0.4mm  Hover over the image on ebay to see the range

 

It’s the wires to the attached switch that are roughly that size that you have to sever from the driver board, the power wires are fine and already stripped from being connected.

Here’s the pic from Bedazzled’s guide so you can see what i mean (their switch wires are not as thin as ours)

 

image.png.04f94ceb3fc29428ea820f753a899c0c.png

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1 hour ago, Hudds Lad said:

 

It’s the wires to the attached switch that are roughly that size that you have to sever from the driver board, the power wires are fine and already stripped from being connected.

Here’s the pic from Bedazzled’s guide so you can see what i mean (their switch wires are not as thin as ours)

 

image.png.04f94ceb3fc29428ea820f753a899c0c.png

 

Ahh ok, that makes sense now! 30 AWG - signal wires on the PCB! :)  

Edited by Rincewind
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3 hours ago, buccaneer66 said:

I use this type for wire stripping https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-strippers/3310710 it's what they used on the production lines where I worked years ago.

These are the bees' bollix. I've also used them before for work. Buy a pair of these and you have them for life.

Sadly, my budget these days extends only to the £9.95 Amazon pair in @Rebotco 's link. Good enough.

Edited by Puffling
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11 hours ago, BEngo said:

I just have a set of graduated gaps between my teef.

 

N

Yeah that's what I did for years and years, both in the army and when I worked for the government, I was a communications engineer. Unfortunately my teeth suffered and now my two front teeth have all but dissappeared and the others are not in good shape and I cannot find a dentist who will do anything for less than £4000 that's assuming I could find a dentist anyway who hasn't cried "COVID" and gone to ground.

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16 hours ago, buccaneer66 said:

I use this type for wire stripping https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-strippers/3310710 it's what they used on the production lines where I worked years ago.

 

Yes, these are the ones to use, used to be really costly but there are now cheaper versions available. I have two sets, the bigger ones for the smaller electrical stuff and the tiny ones for electronic stuff.

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12 minutes ago, dmr said:

 

Yes, these are the ones to use, used to be really costly but there are now cheaper versions available. I have two sets, the bigger ones for the smaller electrical stuff and the tiny ones for electronic stuff.

Mine are the smaller ones for electronics, I used to dabble.

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There only limitation is they do need a bit of space and length of wire to work with so no good for repairs where only a short length of wire is protruding.

The self gripping is the big feature, single handed operation and no need to hold the wire with a pair of pliers or whatever.

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19 hours ago, Hudds Lad said:

 

It’s the wires to the attached switch that are roughly that size that you have to sever from the driver board, the power wires are fine and already stripped from being connected.

Here’s the pic from Bedazzled’s guide so you can see what i mean (their switch wires are not as thin as ours)

 

image.png.04f94ceb3fc29428ea820f753a899c0c.png

Exactly the same job as I have done, how will you be securing the LED bulb?

 

Bod

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1 hour ago, Bod said:

Exactly the same job as I have done, how will you be securing the LED bulb?

 

Bod

3M double-sided sticky foam pads, cut into small squares and stacked to give about 10mm clearance behind the bulb, three stacks per bulb. Then also a thin strip of the same to stick down the choccy block. Didn’t fancy using a glue gun above my head or completely taking down the fittings ;) 

17 hours ago, MtB said:

I use a plain ordinary pair of side cutters. 

 

With 60 years of practice I can judge exactly how much squeeze is needed to get the insulation off but cut none of the strands inside! 

 

I’ve had a good look on the internet and can’t find anywhere selling 60yrs of experience, apart from that place that gave Gillian McKeith her doctorate of course :D 

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