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Rincewind

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Everything posted by Rincewind

  1. Depending on what you are attempting to do here I may have a solution. Question... are you wishing to repair / restore the revcounter back to its former glory? i.e. as per original spec? Or... do you simply want a revcounter that works electronically and is constantly accurate, i.e. not connected to the alternator in any shape or form as Quattrodave has suggested? If its the former then without physically examining the equipment you have, I may not be of much help, but if its the latter and you want a project to pursue, then I can point you in the right direction as some years ago I made, using a variable reluctance sensor (VRS), my own digital revcounter that is accurate to approx. 1 or 2 RPM at high engine speeds. (This accuracy was sufficient for my purposes, although you could make it even more accurate if you have the will to do so). As you already know, the variable reluctance sensor that you seem to have will output a sine wave signal (if it is working). Assuming that the signal is to be read by a microprocessor, that will most likely be housed inside the tacho instrument, the sine wave will have to be converted to a square wave prior to being fed into the microprocessor. When counting pulses, microprocessor's do not like sine wave signals and work best with crisp low to high square wave voltage signals. The point to note here is that, from the reluctor sensor to the tacho instrument, the cable you use should be of the shielded type with the braid grounded in order to prevent electromagnetic interference from other electrical equipment, e.g. alternators, corrupting the signal. - This can be important! (Less so important with Hall effect sensors as they are less susceptible to electromagnetic interference ). Hall effect speed sensors are also fitted with permanent magnets so "testing" the sensor by seeing if it is attracted to ferrous metals is not conclusive evidence of which type of sensor you are dealing with, however the number of electrical connections is a pretty good indicator. If it helps, I just measured the resistance of a spare reluctance sensor I have at home and it measures 777 ohms but do not read much into this as the resistance can vary widely from manufacturer to manufacturer. Also, be aware that the output voltage of a VRS can vary from as little as 8 volts to over a hundred volts depending on speed / make of sensor. e.g. The reluctor on my engine (over the flywheel teeth) at 642 RPM and producing1038 Hz, gave an output voltage of 152 volts - (both figures recorded on an oscilloscope). And that was at tick-over speed! Hall effect sensors normally output a voltage close to the supply voltage. i.e. If the input voltage = 5 volts then output voltage = 4.5 volts or thereabouts.
  2. I love it! Its even got Solar Power! Brilliant, The owner / builder of that boat and I must share the same sense of fun. It gives a whole new meaning to the phrase "about to descend the lock"!!!
  3. Not a heavy cast iron one but we like it, comes in different sizes and colours. If you are tempted, buy the silicone grips that are made for and fit over the handles so that you don't burn your fingers. https://www.marksandspencer.com/cast-aluminium-4-5l-casserole-dish/p/hbp60268399?color=CHARCOAL#intid=pid_pg1pip48g4r1c2|prodflag_submsg-Induction compatible
  4. From the Apple app store I have Neverspoons - self descriptive , and Caskfinder Unlike Pearley I found it very good, listed all my local watering holes with a full list of beers
  5. Mine does, keeps the washer supplied without reduction in output pressure but empties the tank faster than normal!
  6. I too looked at this scenario many years ago and questioned why Vee / wedge belts are used in this application. Having worked for a living on many diesel generation plants of different configurations, I could not arrive at a sensible conclusion other than it was nothing more than a historic and cheap solution to drive the alternator on an ICE. I.e., wedge belt arrangements can tolerate a little misalignment in several planes without being unduly compromised. (Automotive industry driven I suspect, with one eye on production costs and the other on third party repairs / replacements beyond their control). Beat me to it! the link below may prove informative. It seems to allude to that application. As regards your particular engine / alternator setup / problem, you may find this link interesting for Prestolite / Leece-Neville alternators:- https://www.idleproextreme.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/IdlePro-2pg-Flyer-031819.pdf I also have some technical information that I downloaded from Leece-Neville many years ago in PDF format that I could forward to you if you wish, via email. It contains info on pulley selection guides, output curves and recommended drive to alternator ratios etc. Sadly I can no longer find the link on-line but the PDF Data is still valid. If its of interest to anyone else........... Disillusioned with the traditional set up of the Vee belt alternator drive, with its many problems, twenty years ago I changed my Vee belt drive to a toothed belt drive system (water pump included). I used HTD pulleys and belts (20mm wide x 8mm pitch) using taperlock fittings on the crankshaft and water pump, matching the sizes of pulley diam. as close as possible whilst maintaining the crankshaft to alternator drive ratio. Due to its small diameter the alternator pulley was bored out to the size of the shaft and counter bored to accommodate the retaining nut. I retained the tensioning arrangement as that part of the setup is simple yet effective but it did require appropriate spacers in order to establish alignment of the pulleys. https://bearingtech.co.uk/collections/8m-timing-belts/products/960-8m-50-htd-8m-timing-belt-960mm-long-x-50mm-wide?variant=14242447261741 As far as reliability is concerned I can testify that after twenty years’ service, I have had no problems with the drive train whatsoever. As a matter of fact I bought two "spare" HTD belts at the same time all those years ago, - "just in case" - and they are still in the same protective plastic bag in the engine room, untouched and unused to this day. I checked the belt a few weeks ago, and it shows no visible cracks or deterioration! (But having said that, Sods law dictates that it will 'give up the ghost' and snap next time I am out cruising!) Benefits include:- No belt slip - hence better generation of power - and positive / reliable water circulation! Reduced belt tension - resulting in less stretching / wear of belt. (some tension is required to eliminate "belt slap") Less wear on alternator, water pump and crankshaft bearings. (No excessive side loading) Positive knowledge of drive condition if electrical generation problems should occur.
  7. I have used a Karcher with the Patio cleaning attachment on the roof of my boat with great results, cleans all the green muck out of the non slip sand surface with no elbow grease required.
  8. Have you considered that maybe the carbon brushes and/or the slips ring are worn, (or both!) causing intermittent excitement (or non excitement) of the rotor coils?
  9. These could be Fresh Water Shrimps (cant remember the technical name) but you would have to identify them to be certain. They used to be quite common in the water supply pipes if the disinfection regime was ineffective - or at least the larvae of the shrimp used to be commonly found. When water flows from the service reservoir into the service pipes it is injected with chlorine to kill any bugs on its journey to your taps. When chlorine mixes with water it turns into an acidic mixture that dissolves the bugs. (which is why Mustard gas containing a high proportion of chlorine, when mixed with body moisture, blinded and destroyed the lungs of soldiers in the first world war) - Water companies are increasingly moving away from injecting chlorine gas and injecting Sodium Hypochlorite instead which has the same effect but is less of a hazardous substance to handle and store. The further the distance is from the injection point, the less effective it becomes and often - but not always - booster stations are provided to inject more gas / hypo if sampling indicates it is necessary. If the tap you are using is at the end of the pipeline the solution may be depleted and the bugs will flourish Fresh water shrimps are not considered harmful and swallowing them or their larvae should not do you any harm but should not be in the water supply as this indicates that other more harmful bacteria could flourish. I suggest you get the water from the tap tested by the relevant water company.
  10. Nice teardown, thanks for that. Proof of the pudding though is in the eating! Hope you can update us
  11. Please tell us.........we would love to know, Just how many of you are related to Heath Robinson?
  12. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  13. Sods law strikes again......You always meet someone coming tother way in a Bridge ole!
  14. I have used this material in the past. Not cheap, but rigid and looks smart. Nor am I advocating this supplier, just indicating what is available out there..... You should be able to get smaller sizes / amounts if you shop around. https://plasticsheetsshop.co.uk/aluminium-composite-panels/3mm/
  15. Or look at it another way, ....... With an aging population and less children to replace them, ------- Housing problem solved!
  16. Like Magnetman, I lock my rear doors and slide hatch from the inside with simple slide bolts, it gives an easy escape route in case of fire without looking or fumbling for keys. Mind you, I once left my boat in Middlewich for a week and when I returned the rear doors were wide open. After a few minutes of puzzlement I realised that it was in fact me that had left them open 7 days previously! No one had been inside and nothing was taken though - they are a nice lot in Middlewich!
  17. You are correct Rusty, just for general information, If just replacing the top, when I bought my new squirrel top last year the sealing rope was already glued into place into the grooves. i.e., factory fitted. The same was true for the backplate which I also had to replace. Other seals I had to replace myself and it is imperative that you obtain the correct thickness DAHIK
  18. The top plate of the Morso stove is secured in place with four 6mm set screws, two at the front and two at the back accessed from inside. They are prone to corrode over time and have (one at least) most likely fractured as there is a certain amount of tension to hold the stove together. You will have to part dismantle the stove to repair this as the broken set screw will have to be removed from the top plate (probably drilled out and re-tapped). If you are going to attempt this repair yourself you will need to put straps around the four sides to prevent the sides moving apart. Top plates are available from chandlers etc. if you find the screws wont come out easily. Or find someone who is capable of doing it, it will be cheaper than buying a new Morso. I would advise you not to use the stove at present as poisonous gasses can escape.
  19. Obviously my face does not fit! I was fortunate enough that I lived not too far away. Will not use them again, especially as the price has gone up. For what you get, probably poor value for money but you would have to compare CRT prices with private docks.
  20. Very Interesting........ When I enquired (pre Covid) I was told point blank by a member of CRT that there were none.
  21. In that case be also aware that CRT demand your insurance has cover for £1million (IIRC) in order to use the dock. It has to be declared when booking online. The good news is my insurance company did not charge me any extra for the increase!
  22. I used it a few years ago. You have to hire a pressure washer from a local company if you don't have one yourself. Hire by the day. Hire company phone number is usually displayed on the wall and they are aware of the requirements for boaters, e.g. pressure hose length etc. They also can provide (Hire) 110v to 240V converters so you can use your own power tools as CRT power points are 110V. Not a lot of height under the boat, perhaps a foot or so if I recall correctly. You can park your car in the CRT yard adjacent to the dock but also be aware that there no shower facilities and the hot water comes from an instant water heater in the adjacent boaters facilities.
  23. Even better I could sign on as a (albeit elderly) cabin boy - maybe even change my name to Rodger!
  24. A few years ago we moored up for a few days in Pali harbor on the island of Nisyros in the Dodecanese in front of a Taverna (as you do, of course). Another yacht moored next to us and we struck up a conversation with Damian, the solo sailor on board. A couple of hours later another yacht moored up on the Port side of us and the two crew on board were looking a bit fraught. They asked us if we knew on which island the nearest sailmaker was as their headsail was in need of repair. With that, Damian disappeared below deck and a few minutes later re-appeared with a sailmakers sewing machine in his arms. With no more further ado we all set about spreading the headsail out on the quayside and Damian duly re-stitched the torn luff of the sail much to the entertainment of the Taverna patrons. Needless to say, Damian did not pay for his dinner and beer that night. Just simply amazing what some people carry in their boats! I'm as jealous as hell, - need any crew? Wish you well, have a good trip!
  25. Now you have stirred my curiosity......... Just how do you know its inedible?🤣 (Perhaps try using full fat milk and a spoonful of sugar) - let us know how you get on. 😁
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