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Battery Switch identification?


NB Alnwick

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After discussing my plans for dispensing with the Lucas split charge relay in favour of a simple battery switch with one of my boating neighbours, he kindly donated the switch illustrated in the image below. Can anyone identify the make/brand please? The writing on the back includes:

6-32 VOLTS DC
280 AMPS CONTINUOUS
380 AMPS INTERMITTENT

 

When started from cold this morning my 24v starter motor recorded 350 Amps briefly but was mostly in the region of 250 Amps for about 20 seconds. I am therefore thinking that this switch will do the job.

 

 

Bat Switch 1.jpg

Bat Switch 2.jpg

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Personally I wouldn't use it nice though it is.

Three reasons:

1: it's all to easy to forget to switch it over do that either the batteries don't charge or they go flat and you can't restart the engine.

2: it's all to easy to switch it through the off position and this could well kill your alternator

3: it will require some serious reworking of the start and battery feeds.

 

Did I mention moving the alternator to the domestics and fitting a VSR was the simplest and best way to deal with it?

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Its going back in time. Known alternator killer.

Why not just fit a VSR where the present relay is? No wiring alterations, does a proper job without you having to remember, what's not to like?

 

Do insulate all those spade connections, a bit of heat shrink will do it.

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I am sure that a VSR set-up will prove better than my frequently failing Lucas relays. However the battery switch was offered as a no-cost solution and this, combined with the fact that it is clearly old-tech, is part of the attraction. It reminds me of a conversation I had at Claydon Locks on Friday: When asked why I was pulling my boat out of the lock with the centre-line, I answered "Its a real nuisance but you see I can't find the remote control!"

For me, part of the attraction of boating is that it is an old fashioned physical activity requiring a high degree of human skill and effort.

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16 minutes ago, NB Alnwick said:

I am sure that a VSR set-up will prove better than my frequently failing Lucas relays. However the battery switch was offered as a no-cost solution and this, combined with the fact that it is clearly old-tech, is part of the attraction. It reminds me of a conversation I had at Claydon Locks on Friday: When asked why I was pulling my boat out of the lock with the centre-line, I answered "Its a real nuisance but you see I can't find the remote control!"

For me, part of the attraction of boating is that it is an old fashioned physical activity requiring a high degree of human skill and effort.

 

Graham, use the engine less and save fuel to boot.  :)

 

The Cole family at "Croperdy" 1937.

Mr Cole Hebe.jpg

Mr Cole Hebe Cropredy1937 .jpg

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6 minutes ago, NB Alnwick said:

I am sure that a VSR set-up will prove better than my frequently failing Lucas relays. However the battery switch was offered as a no-cost solution and this, combined with the fact that it is clearly old-tech, is part of the attraction. It reminds me of a conversation I had at Claydon Locks on Friday: When asked why I was pulling my boat out of the lock with the centre-line, I answered "Its a real nuisance but you see I can't find the remote control!"

For me, part of the attraction of boating is that it is an old fashioned physical activity requiring a high degree of human skill and effort.

 

Personally, I prefer old fashioned technology with 12v boat electrics. I have a similar (make before break) battery switch in preference to relays and diodes. However, it might not be a good solution if the switch cannot be located close to the steering position, or if the steerer has a poor memory!  Simple usually equals reliable for me.

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15 hours ago, Keith M said:

I would only use a branded product such as Blue Seas or BEP.

To me the image looks to be a copy of a BEP battery isolator.

 

I have stripped it down and checked it out - it is very well made with 3/8 UNC solid brass studs, nuts and washers, stainless springs and balls, brass shaft, solid copper terminals, and solid copper switch plate. However it does look like something out of a 1950s Tri-ang electric train set.

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I replaced a split diode with one of these. The diode lost nearly 1 volt from the alternator, and made charging very hit and miss. Mine is just inside a cupboard and readily accessible. You soon get used to swapping over, and I usually do this after about an hours cruising on 'both' so that the switch is in the right position when I stop, and the starter battery does not cause premature shutdown of charging.

The dealer who sold it to me referred to it as a donkey switch.

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Sailed for years with that type of c/o switch and it was second nature to switch over minutes after after setting off. The quality ones ensure that the alternator(s) are never disconnected. As i recall the the switch was chunky black plastic with a red lock button.

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16 minutes ago, Sir Nibble said:

Translation.

1. Starting

2. Moored 

Both. Cruising 

Off. Gone home 

There is no advantage to swapping to 2 when under way.

 

 

 

That makes sense to me!

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1 hour ago, Ex Brummie said:

Except that if you make a habit of it then you never leave it in a state that can discharge your starter battery.

A matter of timing. You can switch to 2 when moored to prevent discharging the starter battery or you can do it after starting but there's no advantage in doing it early. How do you know when you have put back what the starter took out?

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