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Hi Everyone!

 

I've been noticing the following:

 

  • Rust patches appear on my sliding hatch (where the bolts are holding the internal handle).
  • Issues with the pop studs used by the company who fitted my stern cover - they kept rusting and breaking.
  • When its cold the insulation on the hatch is poor so gets lots of condensation on it.
  • When it rains hard the rain 'bounces' under the rim getting the surround wood damp.

 

So based on all this I thought the best thing is to take it off and have a look. I made a temp hatch and bolted that on, bringing this one home. The wood stuck to the underside of the hatch but hidden under the wood effect covering was absolutely sodden, so removed this to find the underside badly rusted. Seems the builder had also used wood screws through the hatch to hold the handle on and most of these fell off/broke leaving just a few bolts, although these have a little movement in them so, my quandary is what to do here?

 

I can cut the bolts off and repair the hatch, welding up the many holes (or using filler, whichever) and put on two new bolts going through the hatch, maybe having a flat head - keeps things easier to repair in the future but means 2 holes, or do i try to get some bolts welded to the underside thus no need for holes at all...

 

What repairs have you done that worked/didn't work and does anyone have any pointers?  I'd like to do a lasting job here as not keen on removing it again if i can help it as its bloody heavy (soaked wood didn't help!).

 

Also looking at best way to insulate the hatch - some sort of thermal barrier board??  again, any suggestions on what works well...

 

Thanks for taking the time to read!

 

some pics just in case they help with my poor descriptions!!

 

 

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Edited by robtheplod
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If you've got clearance underneath (to slide it) then you could bond some kingspan or celotex PU board onto the inside of the hatch with Stixall to insulate it, and then cover the insulation with the finish of your choice. I've used 3mm thick wood effect vinyl flooring on my side hatches which has come out really well. 

 

If you don't have enough clearance on the underside of the hatch you could try sticking on thin cork tiles. While that might reduce the condensation you won't really get that much insulation benefit. I did that but then realised my big widebeam hatch needed proper insulation but I only had about 5mm clearance underneath, so I insulated it from the outside with 1" thick kingspan. I then covered that with a wooden cover which I epoxied inside and out. 12 years later the cover had started to rot so I replaced it with an aluminum cover. 

Edited by blackrose
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My hatch had cork tiles when I bought the boat but they were in a poor condition, as was the steel underneath.

 

I scraped them off, sanded and vactaned the steel and then glued a sheet of oak-faced ply in their place. I didn't have the clearance for much insulation so just used 3mm polystyrene between the steel and the oak.

 

It has been 4 years now and so far, no problems.

 

 

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Thanks for the replies, very helpful.. i think i've got a fair bit of clearance so hopefully will be able to get something quite substantial in there!

 

Looking to separate the 'runners' area and the insulated part so it stays dry in the future and also have some rubber strip for garage doors to go on the end of the hatch to stop the rain.

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Line inside with real wood, not ply. Preferably something like teak ( mad expense ) or iroco so that it won't rot with the condensation. Get some insulation in even if only a layer of bubble wrap or thin polystyrene.

 

Put a fin around the outside to stop the rain bouncing and blowing under.

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1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Line inside with real wood, not ply. Preferably something like teak ( mad expense ) or iroco so that it won't rot with the condensation. Get some insulation in even if only a layer of bubble wrap or thin polystyrene.

 

Put a fin around the outside to stop the rain bouncing and blowing under.

Thanks Tracy, there was ply there and it was like a wet sponge so thanks for the tip. Noted re fin and have some garage door rubber i hope to mould.... :)

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I refurbished our hatch recently, like yours the ply covering and wood surround was rotten.

 

Used this for insulation - Diall 5mm Extruded polystyrene (XPS) foam Laminate & solid wood flooring Underlay panels | DIY at B&Q

stuck up with stixall then covered with these

Natural Parquet Parquet effect Self adhesive Vinyl tile, Pack of 13 | DIY at B&Q

 

It might be wishful thinking but the bedroom feels warmer and there is a noticeable lack of condensation in the morning.

 

IMG_20201223_092824094.jpg

Edited by waterdog
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18 minutes ago, waterdog said:

I refurbished our hatch recently, like yours the ply covering and wood surround was rotten.

 

Used this for insulation - Diall 5mm Extruded polystyrene (XPS) foam Laminate & solid wood flooring Underlay panels | DIY at B&Q

stuck up with stixall then covered with these

Natural Parquet Parquet effect Self adhesive Vinyl tile, Pack of 13 | DIY at B&Q

 

It might be wishful thinking but the bedroom feels warmer and there is a noticeable lack of condensation in the morning.

 

IMG_20201223_092824094.jpg

Thanks so much for this, it looks very smart and definately one to look at. Please the combination is warmer also!

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Are you sure that at least some of the water isn't sitting on the exposed part of the runners and then gradually making its way under the hatch and into the boat?

 

If that's happening then the trick is to file or cut an angled slot in the runner just before it  it goes under the hatch. This encourages the water to run off the runner rather than along it.

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On 23/12/2020 at 18:03, blackrose said:

Are you sure that at least some of the water isn't sitting on the exposed part of the runners and then gradually making its way under the hatch and into the boat?

 

If that's happening then the trick is to file or cut an angled slot in the runner just before it  it goes under the hatch. This encourages the water to run off the runner rather than along it.

Thanks. There is a complete gap at an angle as you say as it goes under the hatch so this will help, Once I put the hatch back I'll be looking at a rubber skirt around this to plug any of the gaps.

 

Water is still getting in somewhere independently of the hatch as i can see it dripping at the side of the hatch even when using my temp hatch (holding out well!). I'll have to check around the hatch careful before putting it back on... it was during that very bad rain on Weds so not surprised something got in....

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I’m part way though resealing the entire hatch/door area, having started at the threshold and working upwards. I notice in your first photo that there is evidence of water ingress between the lining boards ( to which the draught proofing is attached) and the inside face of the runner angles/upstand. Mine were attached using self tapping screws from inside. Expect to find rough metal edges and weld spatter on the mating faces, which will need a file before you reseal and refit the lining.

I'm curious about the very narrow edge on the sides of your hatch. It would need to be a fairly snug fit (side to side) to provide security, which in my mind would reduce the likelihood of rain bouncing in ?

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This is all progressing well - got the rust treated and filled the holes. Looking at the runners..... I'd like to keep a gap between the runners and the insulation so i can keep the damp out. I've cut some hardwood strips (from old kitchen top) and hopefully these will be suitable for runners?  Am I right in thinking these would be ok? possibly 'greased' up with a candle rubbed along?  If anyone has any nuggets of info of something more suitable please let me know before i fix these later in the week.... :)  thank you!!

 

 

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1 hour ago, robtheplod said:

If anyone has any nuggets of info of something more suitable please let me know before i fix these later in the week.

I think I read on here about Teflon strip. Presumably, this could be pinned and/or stuck into your hardwood blocks?  Anything "self lubricating" would be a boon.

 

I've a 'roundtuit' concerning replacing my brass sliders with something similar as the brass blocks on brass runners needs constant attention.

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28 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

I think I read on here about Teflon strip. Presumably, this could be pinned and/or stuck into your hardwood blocks?  Anything "self lubricating" would be a boon.

 

I've a 'roundtuit' concerning replacing my brass sliders with something similar as the brass blocks on brass runners needs constant attention.

Teflon sounds good.. I had thought about felt pads but teflon seems more hard wearing. I need to do something as the lid is pretty heavy and my wife previously had issues with opening it.... mind you it was just running on soggy wood ply!

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I am assuming that your hatch, complete with your hardwood runners will on sit and slide along metal be it angle iron or flat plate. If so:-

 

1) I would fit slightly thinner hardwood runners and face them with PTFE strip.

2) Whatever final arrangement you end up with buy an aerosol tin of liquid PTFE. WD40 make it (it's not cheap). Lidl / Aldi  sometimes have it in the centre aisle . A quick squirt every month or so transforms things.

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4 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

This is why I love this forum, lots of great info, thanks Tracy!!

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Posted (edited)

This is all progressing well so far. Not put on the Teflon bits yet but this is how its now looking.

 

I'm thinking a bit more about the water ingress. It only really occurs in hard rain and I'm wondering if it overwhelms the small drainage holes at the side of the hatch. They are always clear but thinking if the flows isn't enough it could quickly build up and go into the cabin as the lip isn't too great. Has anyone had to do this to their boat?  I'd like to think this shouldn't be necessary but I cant think where else this ingress can be coming from?

 

 

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Edited by robtheplod
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1 hour ago, robtheplod said:

This is all progressing well so far. Not put on the Teflon bits yet but this is how its now looking.

 

I'm thinking a bit more about the water ingress. It only really occurs in hard rain and I'm wondering if it overwhelms the small drainage holes at the side of the hatch. They are always clear but thinking if the flows isn't enough it could quickly build up and go into the cabin as the lip isn't too great. Has anyone had to do this to their boat?  I'd like to think this shouldn't be necessary but I cant think where else this ingress can be coming from?

 

 

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Those holes are too small, I would cut them into horizontal slots.

 

But the front edge of you hatch seems not to overlap the raised front edge of the hatchway upstand at all if the picture is correct. The hatch when closed should overlap the upstand and be hard up against it preferable with a rubber seal on the inside of the hatch trapped twixt the two.

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10 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Those holes are too small, I would cut them into horizontal slots.

 

But the front edge of you hatch seems not to overlap the raised front edge of the hatchway upstand at all if the picture is correct. The hatch when closed should overlap the upstand and be hard up against it preferable with a rubber seal on the inside of the hatch trapped twixt the two.

Thanks Tracy. That's all good to know, I will increase the size of these holes when i can. I have a plan in place to fit a rubber seal on the hatch to cover this gap and have holes drilled across ready for fitting - not sure if the rubber will go inside or outside yet but will find out when next on boat........

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25 - 30 mm hole saw will sort that, you can file out the bottom to form an arch shape if you want it a bit tidier. (A finger sander will be easier) The small drain hole on mine caused something of a "water curtain" inside the boat in heavy rain 🌂

 

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I used carpet tiles stuck to the underside of my hatch, I used impact adhesive, to stop condensation, been good for the last 12 years or so, not to good as insulation though. I also stuck some squares of Teflon on the underside of the hatch in each corner and it slides very easy now. You could use one of these silicon chopping boards and cut that up to go under hatch to make it slide easier. 

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As PTFE is a beggar to try and stick to anything else, it's probably worth mentioning that PTFE tape with an attached adhesive side is available on eBay for a few quid.

 

Good stuff though.

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