robtheplod Posted January 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 Thanks for the replies re holes etc, will sort drainage as soon as i can... Painted the first coat on the lid - quite pleased with the results - this is a trial really for the spring when i hope to paint the whole roof (got a tunnel booked). I've tried to find out the prep for a second coat and came back with differing answers. Do you lightly sand again using something like 240 or do you paint on top with no prep? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 1 hour ago, robtheplod said: this is a trial really for the spring when i hope to paint the whole roof (got a tunnel booked). Harecastle ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slim Posted January 2, 2021 Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 16 hours ago, Eeyore said: 25 - 30 mm hole saw will sort that, you can file out the bottom to form an arch shape if you want it a bit tidier. (A finger sander will be easier) The small drain hole on mine caused something of a "water curtain" inside the boat in heavy rain ? Having done exactly the same job I fear you may find that a holesaw is not the answer. Remember you willbe cutting into weld and heat hardened steel. I wound up using various tools including hss drills, rotary files, Dremel grinding bobs and a finger sander. When you finish cutting there will be some unintentional damage needing a bit of filler. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robtheplod Posted January 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2021 (edited) 8 hours ago, ditchcrawler said: Harecastle ? as soon as i clicked 'submit' i knew i'd made a mistake!.... no it's 'poly' ! any advice on prep for second coat? rough it up or leave without sanding? thanks! Edited January 2, 2021 by robtheplod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slim Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 16 hours ago, robtheplod said: as soon as i clicked 'submit' i knew i'd made a mistake!.... no it's 'poly' ! any advice on prep for second coat? rough it up or leave without sanding? thanks! Is that not a brush hair to the top of the photo just above the light reflections? If so your question is answered. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robtheplod Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 23 minutes ago, Slim said: Is that not a brush hair to the top of the photo just above the light reflections? If so your question is answered. no thats a light reflection. I think I'll sand lightly in-between and hope thats ok! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slim Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 32 minutes ago, robtheplod said: no thats a light reflection. I think I'll sand lightly in-between and hope thats ok! My view is that you're right. ? I see from an earlier post that when you repaint your roof you're doing it in a tunnel. Do you intend to take it back to bare metal ? If you do consider seriously using a scrabbler/scarifier. I took a 42' cabin top back to bare metal in a day. It was hard, hot, dirty work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eeyore Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 (edited) On 02/01/2021 at 11:03, Slim said: Having done exactly the same job I fear you may find that a holesaw is not the answer. Remember you willbe cutting into weld and heat hardened steel. I wound up using various tools including hss drills, rotary files, Dremel grinding bobs and a finger sander. When you finish cutting there will be some unintentional damage needing a bit of filler. It's job I've done. You tend to get what you pay for with hole saws. Slow and steady (and maybe I was lucky) and very nearly flush with the roof. The welds didn't seem to be a problem beyond the amount of time I spent standing in torrential rain doing the job. Battery tool and rain cooled saw ? Edited January 3, 2021 by Eeyore Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slim Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Eeyore said: It's job I've done. You tend to get what you pay for with hole saws. Slow and steady (and maybe I was lucky) and very nearly flush with the roof. The welds didn't seem to be a problem beyond the amount of time I spent standing in torrential rain doing the job. Battery tool and rain cooled saw ? Must admit that I didn't have the rain. Good quality tools but no rain.☔ Does cutting fluid count? Edited January 3, 2021 by Slim 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sea Dog Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 1 hour ago, Slim said: Does cutting fluid count? Edited 1 hour ago by Slim Far more than most folk realise. Sounds like you're not amongst those folk who don't realise this though Slim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 17 minutes ago, Sea Dog said: Far more than most folk realise. Sounds like you're not amongst those folk who don't realise this though Slim. I use Rocol cutting lubricant, still have half a bottle from when I fitted the boat. Just use a drop on drills and taps or run it on the edge of holesaws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 Second paint coat, just de-knib and remove any grit, third coat, flat gently with 600 W&D first. Repeat as often as you have patience. Remember the better the finish the worse the heartbreak when you scratch it and the more difficult it is to touch it up. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sea Dog Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 3 hours ago, ditchcrawler said: I use Rocol cutting lubricant, still have half a bottle from when I fitted the boat. Just use a drop on drills and taps or run it on the edge of holesaws Sounds like you're never going to need another bottle but, for those who might, WD40 do a spray can cutting fluid. I've found it rather good. It's about £6 from Screwstation or maybe it was Toolfix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robtheplod Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 6 hours ago, Slim said: My view is that you're right. ? I see from an earlier post that when you repaint your roof you're doing it in a tunnel. Do you intend to take it back to bare metal ? If you do consider seriously using a scrabbler/scarifier. I took a 42' cabin top back to bare metal in a day. It was hard, hot, dirty work. Thanks for the reply. I have planned to not take back to bare metal as most of the roof is ok - it has spots of rust which I'm treating but the rest has gone very dull and i suspect not much more life in it until the rust creeps in further.... more a preventative than repair.... having done the hatch (super shiny!) i can really see how dull it has become on the roof! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robtheplod Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 3 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said: Second paint coat, just de-knib and remove any grit, third coat, flat gently with 600 W&D first. Repeat as often as you have patience. Remember the better the finish the worse the heartbreak when you scratch it and the more difficult it is to touch it up. Thanks Tracy, would 3 coats be ok for a hatch?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 1 hour ago, robtheplod said: Thanks Tracy, would 3 coats be ok for a hatch?? Its your choice, see how it looks. If you think it can be better, flat it down and re-coat it till you are happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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