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I had exactly the same email. It must be 10 years since the boat was in London but I expect to be dropping down to Brentford in the next couple of weeks. Maybe mine has been stolen too.

Does the pump have a lever that opens the pipe when you want to change the oil? If so, is it in the closed position?

Definitely Boston. I have a very similar photo.

OK Thanks

How do you raise the paddles?

You'll be on the right track

How about Dunstable & District Boat Club at Pitstone. I moored at Pitstone Wharf many years ago and I always liked the look of D&DBC. A quick look at their website suggests you would have a commitment to work parties as for Lions. http://ddbc.info/index.html#

If it is plumbed so that the hot water and rads come on together, it might be possible to shut the valve on each rad just leaving the hot water feed active. This assumed a 2 pipe system.

If none of the good advice you have been given above works, try bleeding the the calorifier coil that is connected to the boiler. Also make sure that the pump is actually turning.

Is the calorifier one of the Surecal ones that has an adjuster to set the hot water temperature? If so,does altering the adjuster make any difference?

The nearest station would be Long Buckby. You could walk the 2 miles to Whilton from there but Rugby is not far and would be a good place to rent a car and find accommodation.

Tiller extensions come in more than one size so you will need to measure your existing pipe if you are going to add a wooden handle. The handles are split at the end which goes in the pipe and have a wedge to tighten the fit in the pipe. You would need to adjust this before pushing the handle in. I'd probably glue the handle in as the wedge is meant to be tightened after insertion and you won't be able to do this. Be aware of the extra length the handle would add. Make sure it does not hang outside the boat when dropping in a lock. Maybe cut a bit off the pipe the length of the new handle. You can of course use the tiller with no handle but it's less comfortable. You could also consider shortening the tiller to replace the pipe with the usual brass and wood. That would mean having a piece of bar inserted into the cut end.

I've had them done by Calcutt using the existing fittings as WotEver said.

Hi, There is probably a header tank for the engine and a separate one for the heating system. It is very unlikely that the hot water from the Boatman is passing through the same coil in the calorifier as the water from the engine. As Matty has said it is likely to be caused by air in the system. Try bleeding the radiators and if that doesn't fix it, work out which coil in the calorifier is connected to the Boatman and bleed any air if you can by loosening the connections until anti freeze/water comes through. You might need to do a similar bleeding of any connection in the system you can find. Most people do use automotive anti freeze in their heating systems. You will need to be careful which one you add, if you need to, since they are not all compatible with each other. Check the colour. If you need to top up, mix the antifreeze with water before you add it to the system. Phil

Canalplan has lots of info if you search the gazeteer entry: Geodata Latitude: 52°35′39″N Longitude: 1°34′16″W Postal code: CV9 3DU OS Grid: SP291996 CanalPlan: tph7 CRT Asset: CC-030-002 What3Words: sliding.guards.anchorman Geohash: gcqghq2p16hhm8w116 Maidenhead: IO92fo12 Open Location Code: 9C4WHCVH+MJ

I went up Watford last week and was a bit frustrated that 6 boats were let down before anyone was allowed up. We were the second uphill boat,arrived at 09:30 and came out of the top soon after 12:00. I think I worked the second from bottom lock eight times. My memory is that the norm used to be 3 boats in each direction. The VLK said that they are doing 6 as this saves turning the flight and it adds 30 minutes which they don't want to lose with the restricted hours. I wasn't convinced.

Are you sure that they are not real gold? I was looking to replace one on a PRM 120 and they are nearly £20 https://www.asap-supplies.com/prm-cp1331-drain-plug

It seems that a lot of the waterways in France are suffering from low levels,closures and restrictions at the moment due to the heat wave. You will need to do your research. I've been re-planning our trip at the end of August this morning. We won't now be doing the Nivernais but are currently looking at the Soane or the Rhone au Rhin as being more likely to be open.

If that's the sort of filter I think it is then it comes apart by twisting. I would use the quick release feature by pushing (pulling ?) the blue bit to release the connector from the pump. I don't see one but turn off the isolator between the tank and the pump first. That said I would be surprised if the filter is completely blocked. I would first check that the water tank breather is clear and then check for blockages in the feed pipe from the tank. That could be hard to do with the tank full. The feeds can block up with rust on steel tanks.

This may not apply but on some Seat (i.e. VW) diesel car engines the instructions are to switch the ignition on and off half a dozen times to bleed the fuel filter. The logic is that the fuel pump only runs for a set period of time. Might be worth a try next time.

You are supposed to wash off Fertan with water when it has done its stuff. One of the reasons why many prefer Vactan which doesn't need rinsing.

I recently saw a boat with one of those in front of the cratch board, laid on its side. It looked quite a reasonable place. Didn't extend outside the boat's width and very accessible.

The alde will fire up without the room thermostat calling for heat or the switch turned on but will cut out as soon as the boiler thermostat reaches its temperature. The room stat controls the pump as Tony has said and with the pump circulating water the temperature drops below the set temperature of the boiler stat and the burner will continue to fire. You are right to say that the room stat would have to be set above ambient for the water to be heated, My money would be on the calorifier piped as another rad. Turning on all the rads and seeing if the domestic hot water gets hot should prove this. Turning them off again one by one should show if just one rad is piped in series with the calorifier.