Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Johny London

Patron Donate to Canal World
  • Content Count

    846
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

56 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    K&A

Previous Fields

  • Boat Name
    nb Dera Rosa

Recent Profile Visitors

1964 profile views
  1. I've finished the basic boxes and lids - though lids will need cutting near their rears to add piano hinges - will wait till I get the "penny coin" rubber flooring first so that I can put the hinge in the most appropriate place, aesthetically speaking. The heights feel ok - obviously I was used to something else (there was just one box/step as a temporary measure). Looking at pictures of other boats, more than not seem to have divided the height equally to the top of the door ridge, as I have. Though I did see one that seemed to have the first step exactly level with the deck, then two more after, which I think would have been pretty good but then more steps means either making them shallower or encroaching into the floor space more. All a compromise.
  2. Presumably the glue down version doesn't expand at all? Can't see how it would work otherwise. Not saying it's a different product, just that if glued it''ll hold good. Regarding expansion, the overall amount must be dependant on the total area - so if they specify 5-10mm that must be based on an "average" room size? "Rooms" on narrowboats (or even wb nb's) are smaller, so surely would experience less than average expansion? On the other hand - they do have wider temperature differences, so that would put us back where we started I guess. Still, easy enough to fit skirting over and hide the gap?
  3. Just to add - you'd really need to go for glue down if you have liftable sections.
  4. I'll be using lvt when I get to doing my floor - it seems perfect for a boat. I suggest you lay the floor in such a way that the pattern works with any joins in the floor that you have - I have plenty of joins because I have it in sections that will still be easy to lift once the floor is down (incase I need to reballast or check bilge). Why not start laying your planks from the centre line (iether width or length ways?) and make a feature of it. You could do a strip either side following the line, then do the rest at 90 degrees? And another length ways run of planks either side of the boat. You might have to take plank sizes into consideration in order to keep waste to a minimum and to make life as easy as possible, so a good bit of thought and planning first. It's a good opportunity to make sure you do have at least some liftable sections. Something like this...
  5. I think it's to do with having to kind of stoop through the doorway as you come in - makes being in good balance harder. When I was experimenting earlier with my boxes, the deeper the step the easier it all seemed. One box done, do another tomorrow, maybe even the tops then I can really test them - if necessary can make a bit smaller. No room for a banister though
  6. Thank you for the pics - I love to see what other people are doing/have done and will be sure to get a couple of snaps of my efforts. I am indeed making them as boxes, but was planning on doing piano hinge lids. I like the handle holes on yours - I may do leds on mine In the end I've gone for a fairly deep step - 26cm plus any over hang, might as well make life as easy as possible though of course it takes up floor space.
  7. Thanks. Infact I made a mock up with couple boxes etc and found that agree with what you say. I'm doing the tops of the steps at 24cm and 48cm, the top of the door ridge being 72cm. Now just figuring out depth and overhang! (Appros 24-26cm with 1 or 2cm overhang.)
  8. Mr Smelly - I don't! That's why I keep knackering my batteries! (That and advice like "just give em a good charge once a week or so"). I use the s/g, which actually may be fairly well calibrated, because when it gets to 100%, the solar would typically be putting in <1amp. (remember my 440ah battery bank is down to about 100a total capacity!). I have a shunt to connect, but the battery access is poor so I was putting it off until I either replace them or go lithium and do a full re wire etc. I think cuthound may be right - 93% efficiency at full load but if I am using it for small current draw that figure looks very different.
  9. I'm building steps from the bow doors into the saloon. I have height to the door threshold 72cm, but outside the well deck sits 12cm lower. I want two steps but unsure whether to include that 12cm difference in my calculations (ie 72 divided by 3 or 60 divided by three, to give the height to each step). I'm leaning towards a compromise, or going toward the 60cm and not counting the 12cm extra of the door threshold. Just about to start cutting...
  10. What's the power consumption like with the larger routers? I mean ones with lan sockets and external power supplies as opposed to the portable type with built in battery ie osprey mini / zte etc? I feel I can afford to leave my little zte router on all the time, for convenience - and also in case later I have remote monitoring systems. Would a router with a socket marked lan/wlan work or is that different again?
  11. I'm wondering what's going on with my Victron then - it definitely ups the power drawn from the solar by around 3.5a when its switched on with no load. (I haven't got an actual shunt/ammeter set up yet but am looking to, so I can be more certain of what's going on). The Victron manual does say it should only take 6w on "Zero-load (economy) power" so maybe I need to switch it into economy mode. But I don't have it running unless it is actually powering something, so for small loads it would be taking the 3.5a plus whatever the load needs? It may well be that it is 93% efficient (the spec quotes) at full load but with a standing 3.5a current self consumption it's efficiency would be terrible at low loads. I may enquire at Victron but I'd like to be more sure of my figures first. What I can say is, running the telly and stuff off the small inverter uses a lot less power (as proven with sg soc and a few evenings of actual use) - about as much less as I'd expect, given these figures.
  12. Mine's built into the car so it will turn the music down if it has something to say (as will the hands free phone) but unfortunately the yankee woman doing the voice (on the sat nav) is so appalling it has to be set to silenced all the time (annoying yankee drawl) "In five eighths of a mile..."
  13. I'm in favour of the rubber matts too I'm afraid - as already said they should have nodules underneath so are mostly not touching the deck itself. If you have a waterproof paint (not oils) it will be fine and protected from all those bits of scratchy rock that get caught in boots. Also you can walk onto it in your bare feet in summer or winter. Go for smart new decking benches either side - will hide your diesel tank and you will still have storage under.
  14. No I have not fixed it yet - it's all cleaned up and put to one side while I try and figure it out. I don't do Facebook I'm afraid but would be interested to see how the other chap is getting on. In the meantime, I made rather a good blanking plate from a jam jar lid. What happens when the tank gets full if you don't empty it and carry on using it? Does it come oozing out the air vent or does the bog just not flush down anymore? Might be the way to go.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.