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ASupertramp

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  1. Thank you for your responses. The webasto is indeed an automotive version but has been reprogrammed to the correct voltage for working on the boat, I only purchased the actual unit so need to gather the other bits, including the correct exhaust. In regards to the calorifier, I was under the impression that it shouldn’t be counted as the output drops as the temperature of the water rises? Or something... So do I need not worry too much about hitting the stated 5.5Kw as it’s already a struggle? Yeah, but they look good!
  2. Good Afternoon, I am (still) in the process of fitting out my narrowboat and I am at the stage of heating. I’ve just bought a new 75L calorifier and have a reconditioned Webasto Thermotop C. I think I am correct in stating that I need 5.5kw of radiator output and to ignore the calorifier. I have a 60ft narrowboat and want column radiators. The plan is 4-5 radiators of different sizes: Bedroom 600x423 - 3 column 658w Lounge 600x999 - 3 column 1783w Office, Bathroom, Kitchen - 3 column 1134w Total - 5843w Does this look right and an
  3. Also removed the old 50L? Calorifier and checked to see if the new 75L would fit. It does. Just. Need to sort the rust out first before fitting properly.
  4. This is where I’m currently at: Started cutting the sub floor but need to brace it somehow along the swim as it bows slightly. Not sure how to do that. Sides have been insulated. Progress feels very slow now as I’ve had weeks of dismantling rather than putting back together.
  5. Hi Pete, I scraped away any loose rust, then wire brushed, rust converter (initially toolstation’s own, ran out so got kurust) then two coats of hammerite black metal paint. I looked at what to use prior to doing it and you’ll find 15 different answers and could research for days so I just got on with it. Good luck! Only thing that will be behind the joinery are the pipes coming in from the calorifier that will be housed under the bed (but accessible). I’m boxing in the pipe runs with easy access and electrics will run either just under or inside the gunnel but again, with a
  6. Perfect, thank you both. Now just need to install it 😬
  7. Thanks Jen, just good to know it’s doable. I haven’t measured but I think the tank is 800L. Plan on having a bath a couple of times a week. I last filled up six weeks ago but I’m currently refitting so only use the kitchen sink at the minute. I picked up a 75L surecal from Midland Chandlers yesterday and figured if possible, I could add that to my current 55, but if not, at least 75 should give me a decent amount?
  8. Good Afternoon! I am trying to make a decision regarding my hot water requirements. I'm installing a (nearly) full sized bath so I'll need more hot water than the original 1989 55L calorifier can provide. Do I; a) Purchase a surecal 75L and get rid of the original calorifier (and hope this is enough capacity) or b) Purchase a surecal 55L and link to my original = 110L Will mostly have a landline connection so can use the immersion or it'll be hooked up to the Webasto. Thoughts? How easy is it to link the two? Much app
  9. There is an RCD, then sockets in a series going around the boat and back to the stern.
  10. The pipe needing to go across the boat is supply (to the sink) but I think I’ve solved this by running it from the stern alongside the central heating pipes coming from the calorifier. Couple of questions before I begin rebuilding: - I plan on installing a (near enough) full sized bath with a shower above, would people suggest sinking the bath below the subfloor slightly to increase head height? I’d have to remove one of the metal battens to do this though. - Secondly, the boat has 240v already on via a hook up and I’ll be spending most of the time plugge
  11. Cable sounds like a better idea thanks! The only pipe I can’t work out how to fit without going under the floor is the sink. It’s on the opposite side of the bathroom to the main water pipes. Might have to do a rejig.
  12. I’m very glad that I give off this impression despite being far from the truth. Learning on the job! I was thinking of little rubber bungs to lift the ballast? There isn’t any ballast beyond the old bathroom to the stern, is this unusual? Thank you! No gas pipes to the rear that I’m aware of. I was planning on either laying all the CH pipes along the floor and boxing in or copper pipes and leave for effect. I also wanted to keep all of the bathroom pipes above floor level but not sure how feasible that is yet.
  13. I also managed to remove the pump out tank in one piece!
  14. Good Evening! I am now well into ‘worse before it gets better’ zone. I have pretty much demolished the rear half of the boat, removing the three interior bulkheads as the plan was always for a walk through bathroom and study. When I removed the shower, the sub floor was rotten and bilge rusty so I stripped everything back to metal, fixed the rust and I am now in the process of insulating and fitting a new sub floor. I’ve bought 18mm marine ply, collecting that tomorrow. I would like some pointers if possible about the best order to complete things from this point onwards. I
  15. Thanks for this. I have a feeling, looking at the construction, that it is integral to the hull somehow so I think I’ll wait until the welder can take a look before hacking away at it. The smell isn’t awful, but the main reason is the size of the tank. It goes through into the bedroom cupboard will get in the way when the bathroom is redone. If it was a little more out of the way, I’d leave it. I can’t really get it central, there are kitchen units along both sides. It was probably only a foot closer to the centre of the boat than it will be and provides a bit more livi
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