ASupertramp

Thank you for your responses. The webasto is indeed an automotive version but has been reprogrammed to the correct voltage for working on the boat, I only purchased the actual unit so need to gather the other bits, including the correct exhaust. In regards to the calorifier, I was under the impression that it shouldn’t be counted as the output drops as the temperature of the water rises? Or something... So do I need not worry too much about hitting the stated 5.5Kw as it’s already a struggle? Yeah, but they look good!

Good Afternoon, I am (still) in the process of fitting out my narrowboat and I am at the stage of heating. I’ve just bought a new 75L calorifier and have a reconditioned Webasto Thermotop C. I think I am correct in stating that I need 5.5kw of radiator output and to ignore the calorifier. I have a 60ft narrowboat and want column radiators. The plan is 4-5 radiators of different sizes: Bedroom 600x423 - 3 column 658w Lounge 600x999 - 3 column 1783w Office, Bathroom, Kitchen - 3 column 1134w Total - 5843w Does this look right and anything obvious I’m missing/any tips for installing. I wanted to avoid a kitchen radiator but this would only give me 4700w, how bad are the consequences of this? I’m aware it’s to do with cycling and coking up but can this be negated by regular servicing? Thank you!

Also removed the old 50L? Calorifier and checked to see if the new 75L would fit. It does. Just. Need to sort the rust out first before fitting properly.

This is where I’m currently at: Started cutting the sub floor but need to brace it somehow along the swim as it bows slightly. Not sure how to do that. Sides have been insulated. Progress feels very slow now as I’ve had weeks of dismantling rather than putting back together.

Hi Pete, I scraped away any loose rust, then wire brushed, rust converter (initially toolstation’s own, ran out so got kurust) then two coats of hammerite black metal paint. I looked at what to use prior to doing it and you’ll find 15 different answers and could research for days so I just got on with it. Good luck! Only thing that will be behind the joinery are the pipes coming in from the calorifier that will be housed under the bed (but accessible). I’m boxing in the pipe runs with easy access and electrics will run either just under or inside the gunnel but again, with access.

Good Afternoon! I am trying to make a decision regarding my hot water requirements. I'm installing a (nearly) full sized bath so I'll need more hot water than the original 1989 55L calorifier can provide. Do I; a) Purchase a surecal 75L and get rid of the original calorifier (and hope this is enough capacity) or b) Purchase a surecal 55L and link to my original = 110L Will mostly have a landline connection so can use the immersion or it'll be hooked up to the Webasto. Thoughts? How easy is it to link the two? Much appreciated!

There is an RCD, then sockets in a series going around the boat and back to the stern.

The pipe needing to go across the boat is supply (to the sink) but I think I’ve solved this by running it from the stern alongside the central heating pipes coming from the calorifier. Couple of questions before I begin rebuilding: - I plan on installing a (near enough) full sized bath with a shower above, would people suggest sinking the bath below the subfloor slightly to increase head height? I’d have to remove one of the metal battens to do this though. - Secondly, the boat has 240v already on via a hook up and I’ll be spending most of the time plugged in. I want to start again with the electrics as I’ve no idea what previous owners have done and there are various randomly cut wires. It looks as though it’s just an extension cable feeding a load of sockets. Do I just need 2.5m arctic cable? - Finally, the lights are fed off 12v but I want to put spotlights in as opposed to individually switched done lights, connected to a light switch in each room. I’m getting the lights from Bedazzled but again, not sure what wiring to run. Can I run wires in a conduit INSIDE the gunnel as opposed to below? Can anyone think of any other wires to run in the ceiling while I’ve got access? Thank you in advance!

Cable sounds like a better idea thanks! The only pipe I can’t work out how to fit without going under the floor is the sink. It’s on the opposite side of the bathroom to the main water pipes. Might have to do a rejig.

I’m very glad that I give off this impression despite being far from the truth. Learning on the job! I was thinking of little rubber bungs to lift the ballast? There isn’t any ballast beyond the old bathroom to the stern, is this unusual? Thank you! No gas pipes to the rear that I’m aware of. I was planning on either laying all the CH pipes along the floor and boxing in or copper pipes and leave for effect. I also wanted to keep all of the bathroom pipes above floor level but not sure how feasible that is yet.

I also managed to remove the pump out tank in one piece!

Good Evening! I am now well into ‘worse before it gets better’ zone. I have pretty much demolished the rear half of the boat, removing the three interior bulkheads as the plan was always for a walk through bathroom and study. When I removed the shower, the sub floor was rotten and bilge rusty so I stripped everything back to metal, fixed the rust and I am now in the process of insulating and fitting a new sub floor. I’ve bought 18mm marine ply, collecting that tomorrow. I would like some pointers if possible about the best order to complete things from this point onwards. I have a joiner lined up to build the bulkheads and bed/office, but what should I be doing first. I thought installing any wires for electrics/lights/sockets, then the central heating pipes, plumbing then joinery? I’m also suffering from information overload so go easy on me!

Thanks for this. I have a feeling, looking at the construction, that it is integral to the hull somehow so I think I’ll wait until the welder can take a look before hacking away at it. The smell isn’t awful, but the main reason is the size of the tank. It goes through into the bedroom cupboard will get in the way when the bathroom is redone. If it was a little more out of the way, I’d leave it. I can’t really get it central, there are kitchen units along both sides. It was probably only a foot closer to the centre of the boat than it will be and provides a bit more living space.

Thought I would update this thread. Been hard at work mostly dismantling things, including the rear cabin and the less than ideal stove installation (including defunct stove). I plan on building a new hearth and stove surround at the front of the boat in the corner. I’ve purchased the calcium silicate and will follow the guidelines regarding air gaps etc. Plans slightly on hold as I can’t view any tiles due to the lockdown. I’ll be replacing with a morso squirrel with a back boiler. I’m going to change the bathroom from the current split corridor to a walkthrough. Reasons for this: - The shower is outside the bathroom - More space - Pretty much just me/girlfriend on boat so no worries regarding privacy. I haven’t quite worked out how all of this will look yet but one quick question, the boat has a pump out tank which I want to remove. It smells, despite me flushing it and it’s huge, going through into the bedroom cupboard. How difficult is this likely to be to remove and will I need to have extra metal welded into the space? I’m measuring up to fit a new floor, undecided between engineered wood/vinyl. Scratching my head about the rear cabin build. I want to turn it into a study but due to the large swim, it’s going to require some clever thinking. Pictures attached, possibly out of order.

Thanks Mike, very pleased. Lots to do and plenty to research!