monkeyhanger

I was led to believe that the lowest bridge in those parts is the one by Packet Boat Marina. FOR NARROWBOATS, if you can get through there, you can go most places.

Mine went a similar way a few years ago. Not quite as bad as yours, so I bought a new smoke box ( I think that's what the part in the pic is called) Reassembly with plenty of fire cement kept it going for a few years. Then the top plate cracked in half, which was, I thought at the time, terminal. However all parts are (or were, until recently) available if you wish to rebuild it. In the end I bought a new one. The company which makes them is owned by Pete Dufficy. I have his number if you wish to speak to him.

It is accessed through the side doors. The paper filter is attached to a brass device which clamps it at both ends. This, in turn is friction fitted ( a close machining job with an internal rubber o ring) into a fitting on the end of the oil pickup pipe. To change the filter, I pull the old filter and its assembly off the pickup pipe, then dismantle it and replace the filter in a clean place (usually a pile of newspapers on the engine room floor). Once the sump is emptied and wiped clean, replacement of the filter is a simple "push-in" job.

I can only say that I start my cruising season with clean oil and a fresh filter. Having worked out my cruising route, I do an oil and filter change at about the half way point, or somewhere approaching 250 hours. I also have a pressure gauge mounted on the pigeon box, so I can keep an eye on that. Seems to have worked OK so far, but I'm always willing to listen to people more knowledgeable than myself.

Physically the paper filter element is a similar size to the strainer. It must be able to do a better job of filtering oil than the strainer ever did I would have thought.

Speak to Johnno at UCC. He made it for me and I have every faith in his knowledge and ability.

It's in place of the strainer in the sump. I use a filter which is a similar size to the strainer, mounted on a purpose made fitting.

My engine runs at 18psi. I was advised after the engine rebuild and the fitting of a paper filter to run the engine on "CC" oil. Halfords seems to fit the bill, but I'll check out Rockoil.

Wet sump. About 2 1/2 gallons. I would have thought 30mph would equate to approx 1000-1500 rpm. My engine runs at about 600rpm, no more, so that may change the maths a bit. About 2 thousand hours. 4 summer seasons.

I've just come across this topic. I have a JP2 and I use Halfords Classic 20w50 in it, which I get ,with trade discount, for about £17 a gallon. Mind you, I have a proper oil filter element fitted instead of the strainer, and I change my oil every 250 hours.

When I rebuilt my reduction box 30 years ago, the cost of the thrust bearing was eye watering, even then. I was advised to use an ordinary bearing instead, as I have a plummer block on my propshaft which takes the thrust from the prop. That system seems to have worked OK so far. Do you have a plummer block fitted? If you don't, it may be worth exploring the possibility of installing one. It may work out cheaper in the long run. My boat is 70ft with a JP2 by the way.

Before I built my back cabin, I visited as many boats as possible with a camera, tape measure and writing/sketch pad. The more cabins you see, the more individual differences you will notice. This is one project where time doing research will be time well spent. I don't know where you are, but you're welcome to have a look at my boat in East London if you wish.

OK Dave, I know you would, but the general man in the street may not. Fabulous panel by the way. Jack

I used Craftmaster cream undercoat. It's not a million miles away from Chrome Buff in colour. Once it's grained you won't notice the difference.

Probably best to speak to the surveyor directly. It may be a technical expression, or it may be a bit of local vernacular.