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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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    Marine Engineer
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    Severn Belle
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  1. I can confirm that it is still Carla you would need to contact. Sorry I don't have a contact number. And as far as I know there is still a long waiting list.
  2. Steve56

    Air filter

    Just for information the later slightly more powerful ST engines were always fitted with air filters as standard. So I don't think an air filter on your engine would cause any problems. Also the SR industrial engines were always fitted with air cleaners.
  3. There just seems to be so much misunderstanding with this post. Originally it was said that if the OP wanted to move his engine he could undo the top mounting nuts and do so. As long as the lower nuts were not disturbed the alignment would not alter. The paragraph in the book is explaining what to do if you get a nut come loose. In most circumstances the top nut is a lock nut and stays in place and the lower nut becomes loose. In this situation you would raise the lower nut to tighten, exactly as the book. Two totally different situations.
  4. Now after reading this passage it all makes perfect sense and totally agree with what has been written.
  5. Whilst some of the Beta engines have the solenoid with external linkages many of them have an almost identical looking one. I think that even if the engine has an internal type it will probably still have the external stop lever that can accept a cable. Then it would be a simple case of fitting a blanking plate in place of the solenoid. I think the engine will still have it's normal stop lever in place. I know with the Beta engine, when an internal solenoid is fitted there is still a stop lever.
  6. Personally I would not even bother with a stop solenoid. Just go for a cable stop. In fact when I bought my new Beta 75 I went into the factory to do a few mods to the engine. One of the mods was to remove the stop solenoid make up brackets to accept a stop cable. As someone said earlier, keep it simple.
  7. The canaline is based on a Kioti engine not an Isuzu engine. The Kioti engine is very similar to to a Kubota engine, in fact in the past they built Kubota engines under license until the went it alone.
  8. You could try ASAP supplies. They will sell anything you need on line. Also there site will have technical info on the requirements.
  9. On a ZF gearbox the line around the dipstick is the oil level. There is no maximum and minimum, just the set level. To check oil level you should just place the dipstick into the hole, but do not screw in. The oil should then be at the mark on the dipstick.
  10. If you decide to use the engine as a heat exchanger cooled unit it may be a good idea to improve the water injection exhaust outlet. Try to do away with the horrible 90 degree elbow and have a swept bend put in.
  11. I think what you can see under the heat exchanger is the back end of a PRM gearbox. Looks like the gearbox is just led there but not fitted onto engine.
  12. I did mention earlier in the post that all the impeller would have failed due to running dry and the vanes will need to be removed from the pipework Things just seem to get repeated, and we go around in circles.
  13. If you have run the engine and have not had water coming from the exhaust then the chances are the impeller has disintegrated. The will not last long running dry. Any blockage in the inlet can cause this. Also if the impeller has failed you should try and retrieve any broken vanes from the internal pipework as they can cause restricted flow.
  14. Borg Warner seemed to use both types of filler cap/dipstick. Some were screw in, some were push in with an expanding rubber to hold in place.
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