Steve56

The raised hand start doesn't need anything to stop it turning. I would suggest that the ratchet wheel bearing is a little tight. This could be down to wear. It could also be down to the old grease hardening and making it stiff. The best thing to do would be to remove the bearing and clean it out. If it appears to be in good condition repack with fresh clean grease. There should be a grease nipple for this purpose.

https://youtu.be/Kvh5JIrvMDI. This you tube video shows a funeral on the G&S canal a few years back. Probably wouldn't do anything on this scale, but does show what can be done. I can't seem to give a link you can click on so will probably have to type it out.

This is the type of hose I always use. In my opinion one of the best. Not the cheapest but will probably last the life of the boat. You say your hose goes to the bottom of the skin tank so that should be going to the suction side of the pump. You just need to be careful that whatever you use cannot collapse when warm. That's the main reason for not using some of this plastic type hose.

Normally from new they would have been fitted with Dowty Seals.

There should be enough clearance around the bolt heads to use a socket. Especially if you use a smaller 3/8 drive socket. On the lower bolt the coupling may get in the way. That's the reason the output coupling has cutouts on it. You may have to unbolt the R&D coupling and slide the shaft back to get some space.

What you are showing there is the oil pump assembly. The repair kit you mention is just the gears and spindle for the pump. The pump and the plate you mentioned is just a machined plate with metal to metal sealing. From what I remember PRM don't use any sealant on these joints. Personally if I was rebuilding one I may be inclined to use a smear of Wellseal on the faces. Just as a matter of interest did you remove the oil pump assembly when you did the work. Some of the bolts that hold the pump assembly to the gearbox also hold the pump together. So quite important to torque these up evenly and to correct torque.

Here's the relevant info from the Lister Manual

They were all built with lift pumps regardless of whether they were for marine or industrial use.

I did also mention that in my comment.

That range of Lister Petter engines always came with a lift pump fitted. And yes they were all self bleed fuel system. Just another thought. Is the tank breather clear as if not could possibly give you this problem.

I would be pretty confident in saying your gearbox will have cooler. You should have a couple of hoses coming from the box, just follow and see where they go. It is a real pain trying to see the oil level on the new dipsticks. The older models used to have a blackened matt finish on the dipsticks but I suppose now it's all down to cost so a plain dipstick saves a few pence. As previously said just lay on some kitchen towel and you will see the level. Note the dipstick should be screwed in to test level. Normally I would just place it in position but just fill to minimum mark. You will be close enough.

There are boatyards about that are fully capable of working and repairing wooden boats as well as steel. RW Davis at Saul has done numerous wooden boats. Maybe because they are a good old fashioned boatbuilder doing commercial as well as pleasure work.

Can confirm that Lister only supplied the flange that was fitted to the engine. The rest would be customer supply. Suppose it makes sense as there are so many variations of installation.

Yes they use cut off coach bolts on the cabin sides. These are then welded from inside.

I would think its more to do with the fitment to the crank, rather than the number of teeth. But if Lister have given different numbers then there will definitely be a difference somewhere.