GRLMK38

Thanks Alan I will need to work out how to measure it accurately at the pump due to the fact it's a pulsed signal. A scope would do it but it's not something I have easy access to. The supply voltage to the heater/fan unit is fine and is sat at float voltage (connected to a shoreline). So at this stage I suspect there is an ECU issue.

I have a Webasto Top Z/C-D (diesel) that is failing to start. Some basic checks have been done, unfortunately I don't have access to the £500 diagnostic box so I cannot see the fault codes. 1. Using the timer unit (the "flame" button) the heater units starts up and runs at a fairly high speed and there is positive pressure at the exhaust outlet. 2. There is no white smoke or smell of diesel. 3. After 30 seconds or so (sorry, I didn't time it, the unit shuts down) 4. There is +13.5v at the power connector (X2) so low voltage is not suspected 5. There is plenty of fuel in the tank and it is flowing freely in to the separate pump input. 6. There is no fuel being pumped when the pump is connected to the unit but it performs on the bench i.e. by pulsing 12v it pumps a small amount of fuel per pulse. 7. I can measure 10-12v on the pump connector when the unit is running using a multimeter, I don't have an oscilloscope to look at pulses. 8. I have reset as per the service manual by removing the fuse at the appropriate moment. I am suspecting that the unit is not sending pulses to the fuel pump. The blue wire from connector X1 to the pump is intact as is the ground connection. Any ideas? Hopefully there is a DIY fix for this as the spare part prices appear to be in "How much???" category. For those reasons I am keen to avoid a module swap out approach. If there is no DIY fix, is there a recommended repair option in the Braunston area? Thanks.

Just a reminder that Watford Locks are now on Winter hours i.e. 09:00 - 15:30 (last boat entry at 14:45)

My guess is that by the time you have consulted the forum it will have sold over the phone on a subject to survey basis.

The OP was stating an opinion and he may well be qualified to do so, I was merely stating fact (as a boater that reported the issue to C&RT East Midlands Ops in June) because I am not qualified to comment on dredging and reinstatement work on flood plain land. Now with the benefit of hindsight perhaps the OP (or you) could write to the Land and Water and the C&RT Project Manager to explain how they should have done it?

Great to see the work being completed. The shoal certainly took me by surprise when I tried to move across towards the lock landing.

This works and the packaging bears an uncanny resemblance to the Kinver version. Half the price of Kinver https://jarder.co.uk/jarder-spray-leave-patio-cleaner-5l.html +1 for Fabsil Gold

A bottle of Fuelset and a Smart Gauge.

All the above is good advice but I would add: Be very careful to tie up properly if you have to drain a lock on the Nene e.g. to let another boat down. The lock landings are not narrowboat friendly as they are short and allow the gunwales underneath the walkway. Do not try and "hover" in midstream while you are waiting as the currents are way beyond what a boat can overcome. How do I know? We didn't tie up and I have the paint damage to prove it.

Ahhh.. you want a public confession! Yes, I have two stainless steel drip trays that hold the mats. I assure you they are shinier than the engine....

I collect drips in the absorption mats between annual services, about 50ml per 400 hours (best guess).

Why go grey? (The 2UC has since been replaced with a PRM500).

Just what I wanted to read Dave having just moved two boats up Hatton today ?

If people realised the damage that can be caused by the metal washer at the base of the rubber tube style ones they wouldn't leave them down.

Fresh water mussels on the shelf behind the bottom gate was the cause when I got stuck in there. They were removed with a long keb by C&RT Ops.

Yep, still required at Crick.

Just a gut feel but this type of response will almost certainly see this thread tumbling to the bottom of the postings list with no further assistance being offered by members. Perhaps you would be better served by a mobile engineer that can visit your boat and advise (and bill) you accordingly based on their "expert" advice. Worth bearing in mind that the good ones are always fully booked so you may have to wait a while though.

It may have something to do with the "modern" customer buying a "modern" boat demanding the same "modern" appliances that they have/had at home.

In November 1992 the steel for my 62' trad cost £2708.55 + VAT which would be £5900 + VAT at todays prices.

@Halsey did you sell your spare?

My mistake, the description doesn't really follow standard convention for this type of crimp. The 10mm, in this case, is the length of the conductor.

10mm on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/112382849258?chn=ps They probably sell small files too .... ?

I think you will find C&RT and the Under Secretary of State are already very well acquainted through their mutual Memorandum of Understanding.

The easiest way is to measure the pin layout. A 2 amp is 15mm between L & N pins and 5 amp is 19mm.

Worth checking which 3 pin plug you need. I thought I needed 5 Amp when in reality it was 2 Amp. https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/222/mains-plug-round-pin-white-2a/dp/PL13941 I then used a standard cigar style extension lead, cut the plug off and fitted the above. (Bear in mind these plugs are unfused)