Alan de Enfield

I don't think it gonna be roman very far - maybe just to the 'cruncher'.

As I quoted the actual BSS document, there is no question as to me being 'right or wrong'. I am correct !

It is way out of specification for the BSS. A lot of bad workmanship, and ignorant DIY can happen in 4 years. Even a ratchet strap across the top of the batteries will do for the retention.

Having studied the pictures - in that area alone there is a lot of work to be done. Its pretty simple work but you will need : 1) to know what you are doing, 2) have read the installation regulations (BSS) 3) and follow those rules. If you are either not prepared to do that, or don't feel capable, then you will need to get the sparky who is doing you LI installation to completely re-do the engine bay.

apart from the mess of spaghetti, just thought to mention that unless you can find a way of restraining those batteries you will get a BSS fail. Also, unless the batteries are normally covered by a 'lid' then you will have another failure of the BSS as the terminals are not covered.

One starts to wonder if Gordon Brown has taken up employment with C&RT.

I think this need correcting before the OP gets worried or confused. I'd suggest that probably 999 out of 1000 canal boats have both 12v and 230v mains wiring

So, if he signs out, and back in again (directly using the forum 'sign in') he should be OK ?

On a windows lap-top its very easy. Click on your name/avatar picture ( circled top left) and this opens Click on the little box in the bottom left picture and its takes to another page saying 'choose you picture' and follow instructions

It has been back in for the brakes to be freed-off - all done. I swapped the brand new spare for the 'getting close to the limit' wheel/tyre. Stone chip has been there for years and years and is reported repeatedly

My last MOT (a couple of weeks ago) resulted in a "pass with defects" There was a paragraph "Repair as soons as possible (Minor Defects)" which listed "Winscreen damage but not affecting drivers view" (a stone chip but outside the arc of the wipers) Then a list of "Monitor and repair if necessary (Advisories)" NS rear brake binding Slight play in wheel bearing Tyre worn close to legal limit NS rear

The MOT has a list of 'dangerous defects' and they are shown on your certificate in advance of 'minor defects' and 'Advisories' I'm only guessing but would suggest that such as no-brakes, or petrol squirting onto the exhaust manifold would be serious/dengerous, but have a below tread depth tyre, or a bulb out would not be. The official line ...................... Dangerous defects in the MOT test are serious issues that render a vehicle unsafe to drive and must be repaired before the vehicle can be legally used on the road. Definition of Dangerous Defects In the context of the MOT (Ministry of Transport) test in the UK, a dangerous defect is classified as a fault that poses an immediate and substantial risk to road safety or the environment. Vehicles with dangerous defects cannot be driven until the issues are resolved, as doing so would invalidate any existing MOT certificate. Examples of Dangerous Defects Some common examples of dangerous defects include: Braking Issues: Severely worn brake pads or loose brake discs that compromise stopping power. Structural Problems: Fractured wheels or excessive corrosion in suspension components that could lead to loss of control while driving. Visibility Hazards: A windscreen crack larger than 10mm in the driver's line of sight, which can obstruct clear vision

Not quite true - as I said before if it has serious defects making it unroad worthy it cannot be driven, an the 'old' cetrtificate is invalidated ....... A failed MOT does not invalidate the existing MOT certificate until its expiry date, provided the vehicle is roadworthy. Key Points to Understand Validity of the Old MOT: If your vehicle fails an MOT test before the current certificate expires, the existing MOT remains valid until its expiry date. This means you can legally drive the vehicle as long as it meets the minimum roadworthiness standards. Driving After a Failed MOT: You are allowed to drive your vehicle after it has failed the MOT test, but only if there are no dangerous defects reported. If the vehicle has dangerous faults, it is considered unroadworthy, and driving it could lead to penalties. Legal Implications: If you drive a vehicle that has failed its MOT due to dangerous issues, you could face fines, penalty points, or even a driving ban. Therefore, it is crucial to address any serious defects before driving the vehicle.

Are you sure it is the gearbox threads and not the dipstick threads that are damaged ? They may even be able to supply with a new, correct, undamaged, dipstick.

Did you read the 2nd reply where I said I had a manual and did you want a copy ? I wonder why I bother !!!