Alan de Enfield

It has been back in for the brakes to be freed-off - all done. I swapped the brand new spare for the 'getting close to the limit' wheel/tyre. Stone chip has been there for years and years and is reported repeatedly

My last MOT (a couple of weeks ago) resulted in a "pass with defects" There was a paragraph "Repair as soons as possible (Minor Defects)" which listed "Winscreen damage but not affecting drivers view" (a stone chip but outside the arc of the wipers) Then a list of "Monitor and repair if necessary (Advisories)" NS rear brake binding Slight play in wheel bearing Tyre worn close to legal limit NS rear

The MOT has a list of 'dangerous defects' and they are shown on your certificate in advance of 'minor defects' and 'Advisories' I'm only guessing but would suggest that such as no-brakes, or petrol squirting onto the exhaust manifold would be serious/dengerous, but have a below tread depth tyre, or a bulb out would not be. The official line ...................... Dangerous defects in the MOT test are serious issues that render a vehicle unsafe to drive and must be repaired before the vehicle can be legally used on the road. Definition of Dangerous Defects In the context of the MOT (Ministry of Transport) test in the UK, a dangerous defect is classified as a fault that poses an immediate and substantial risk to road safety or the environment. Vehicles with dangerous defects cannot be driven until the issues are resolved, as doing so would invalidate any existing MOT certificate. Examples of Dangerous Defects Some common examples of dangerous defects include: Braking Issues: Severely worn brake pads or loose brake discs that compromise stopping power. Structural Problems: Fractured wheels or excessive corrosion in suspension components that could lead to loss of control while driving. Visibility Hazards: A windscreen crack larger than 10mm in the driver's line of sight, which can obstruct clear vision

Not quite true - as I said before if it has serious defects making it unroad worthy it cannot be driven, an the 'old' cetrtificate is invalidated ....... A failed MOT does not invalidate the existing MOT certificate until its expiry date, provided the vehicle is roadworthy. Key Points to Understand Validity of the Old MOT: If your vehicle fails an MOT test before the current certificate expires, the existing MOT remains valid until its expiry date. This means you can legally drive the vehicle as long as it meets the minimum roadworthiness standards. Driving After a Failed MOT: You are allowed to drive your vehicle after it has failed the MOT test, but only if there are no dangerous defects reported. If the vehicle has dangerous faults, it is considered unroadworthy, and driving it could lead to penalties. Legal Implications: If you drive a vehicle that has failed its MOT due to dangerous issues, you could face fines, penalty points, or even a driving ban. Therefore, it is crucial to address any serious defects before driving the vehicle.

Are you sure it is the gearbox threads and not the dipstick threads that are damaged ? They may even be able to supply with a new, correct, undamaged, dipstick.

Did you read the 2nd reply where I said I had a manual and did you want a copy ? I wonder why I bother !!!

Filter Kit for Craftsman CM2.16 | eBay UK Thats better, and free delivery. I'd buy 2 or 3 and have spares then you've got them when you need them. The ones below are in the Netherlands

That is a link to an oil filter - the OP is wanting a fuel filter. The fuel filter is here ......... Craftsman Fuel Filter CM2.16/CM3.27/CM4.42/CM4.65/CM4.80 | Yacht-Supply24 HOW MUCH !!! £38 + £20 postage, and 2 weeks delivery ! Mind you that is the Cyprus based distributor.

Doesn't it feel great when you successfully achieve something (which you were not looking forward to) ? Well done.

How do you know they have subcontracted the work out - and if so - do you know to whom ? You could try and chase up the subcontractor If the car has failed its MOT, it is not roadworthy & it cannot be used, or moved, except to somewhere to do the necessary rectification work. You cannot (legally) take it home, take it out and 'go to work' or, do the shopping using it. It can ONLY be used to go to the repair shop. If an ANPR camera sees you driving an MOT failure you'll have a 'bit of trouble' knocking on your front door.

It looks like a standard "296" filter to me. Do you have the CM2 engine maintenance manual ? I have one in Pdf if you want a copy.

I think that Third Party cover is basically (required by CRT) is so that anything you hit, or damage (another boat, lock, bridge etc) can claim off you.

It can be if you have an old, poor condition boat and limited disposable income. The cost of a survey could be approaching £1000 (including lift out and lift in), which could then identify £5,000-£10,000 of overplating needed as the hull is down to 3.9mm in places. without the work being done it will be unisurable fully comp. Even if the cost of 3rd party is similar to Fully Comp, the 'savings' made can be large - on a boat that will probably last another 30 years with no remedial work done.

But you are normally so pedantic when people quote 'facts / numbers' Over to you for the last word ..........................

Yes but probably a 3x larger number than you made it out to be.