Replacing the engine cover

[DomX]

We're about to buy our first NB and have noticed that the engine cover board that you lift for access is a bit 'soggy' and I suspect the damp has got far enough into the wood to require replacement. I'm no genius carpenter, but I should be able to make a replacement.

 

What wood would you recommend I use for this? Alternatively, is there some great new artificial material that's a better long term bet?

 

Thanks,

Dom.

[bizzard]

We're about to buy our first NB and have noticed that the engine cover board that you lift for access is a bit 'soggy' and I suspect the damp has got far enough into the wood to require replacement. I'm no genius carpenter, but I should be able to make a replacement.

 

What wood would you recommend I use for this? Alternatively, is there some great new artificial material that's a better long term bet?

 

Thanks,

Dom.

Plywood takes a lot of beating for this purpose, especially proper marine plywood but shuttering or WBP ply will be ok if well protected with preservative ie fed with Linseed oil and then painted. Or primed and painted ect, not forgetting the edges.

[nb Innisfree]

Recycled plastic sheeting might fit the bill eBay link I have no experience of it but it sounds ok, don't know how grippy it is though.

[MikeV]

Many engine boards are Hexagrip. Also generically called phenolic faced plywood - you need the textured variety, not the smooth type which is also also available. The wear characteristics of the surface are very good but you must ensure all cut edges are well sealed. This is usually where deterioration starts.

 

I actually replaced my locker lids, which were Hexagrip, with exterior plywood treated with a Sandolin type wood treatment about 4 years ago and they are wearing very well despite being both steps onto the well deck and seats.

Edited August 24, 2012 by MikeV

[PhilR]

We're about to buy our first NB and have noticed that the engine cover board that you lift for access is a bit 'soggy' and I suspect the damp has got far enough into the wood to require replacement. I'm no genius carpenter, but I should be able to make a replacement.

 

What wood would you recommend I use for this? Alternatively, is there some great new artificial material that's a better long term bet?

 

Thanks,

Dom.

 

I would suggest that you do nothing for now, assuming that the boards aren't so rotten that they pose a H & S hazard.

 

You might find that after doing some boating you maybe want to improve the sound insulation or even alter the deck arrangement and maybe want to fit a cover to protect the deck?

 

But if you want to go ahead now Hexagrip or proper marine ply are the best. A good exterior grade plywood will be cheaper and last for years if properly treated (especially at the edges)

[jonathanA]

Get a proper marine ply, from a timber merchant, it won't cost that much more than the poor quality stuff you can pick up at B&Q/DIY Sheds.

 

Exterior grade/WBP and 'hexagrip' will all delaminate surprisingly quickly if exposed to the weather, although sealing the edges and treating it will help.

 

 

Recycled plastic sheeting might fit the bill eBay link I have no experience of it but it sounds ok, don't know how grippy it is though

 

I've used the recycled plastic 'planking' on jetties and notice BW use it too. Its definitely better than wooden planking for jetties and the like, but I've never seen the sheets used, I suspect it will bend a little more than ply so would need some support if spanning a largish gap. looks interesting though might try to find a source a bit nearer to me and try it.

[RLWP]

Hexagrip. Our hexagrip boards have just been chucked after eight years of our ownership, and probably five years before that. I wouldn't mess with anything else

 

Richard

[David Schweizer]

Several people have recommended it, so perhaps it needs to be explained that the term "proper marine ply" is slightly confusing. There is a British Standard (BS1088) for marine ply and any timber carrying the description "marine ply" should comply, but it is not an enforceable requirement, and there are ply sheets which are sold as marine ply which do not meet the BS1088 requirements.

 

Unfortunately BS1088 itself is not that clear, it's three main provisions cover the quality of the glue used, the internal construction of the ply, and a requirement that the veneers be sourced from "durable tropical hardwoods" which usually means either African or South East Asian hardwoods. Genuine marine ply only uses mahogany veneers sourced from one of the Central and South America Swietenia species trees, but this is not specified in the British standard although the Lloyds register is more specific in their Type Approval, PS1-95.

 

Confused? so you should be, most of the timber trade does not understand the difference either, but they will happily con you into buying something that is inferior to some people's expectation. One reputable company which does stock genuine marine ply is Robbins of Bristol, but it is extreemly expensive.

 

Does it matter? Well no, not unless your boat is going to spend time in estuaries or at sea. Genuine marine ply, made from American Mahogany, contains resins which when in contact with salt water, produce a natural preservative which protects the timber from rotting in salt water. This is a totally uneccesary characteristic for use on fresh water boats, as fresh water does not react with the resins to produce the natural preservative. Consequently any Marine ply which is stamped as complying with BS1088 should be ok to use on a fresh water boat.

Edited August 25, 2012 by David Schweizer

[Ex- Member]

Recycled plastic sheeting might fit the bill eBay link I have no experience of it but it sounds ok, don't know how grippy it is though.

 

Could have done with some of that in the past. Seems a good material, i wonder though weather it matches the structural strength of plywood?

 

I need a new floor in one of our Luton vans, I reckon this stuff might fit the bill.

 

 

 

[mrsmelly]

Hexagrip. Our hexagrip boards have just been chucked after eight years of our ownership, and probably five years before that. I wouldn't mess with anything else

 

Richard

 

Agreed.

 

Tim

[DomX]

Thanks for the advice all. As PhilR suggested, I might hold off for a while as they're not rotten... just a bit 'soft' round the edges. In time, I really like the idea of some sort of traditional teak decking as offered by Robbins here: http://www.robbins.co.uk/marine/cabin_cockpit.asp It might be overkill, but looks nice

 

The recycled plastic sheets look perfect for a few other applications such as locker covers on the bow that will also need replacing in time.

 

Thanks again,

Dom.

[smileypete]

See also this thread:

 

http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=48587

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited August 25, 2012 by smileypete

[Psycloud]

Recycled plastic sheeting might fit the bill eBay link I have no experience of it but it sounds ok, don't know how grippy it is though.

 

This looks interesting! We will need to replace the stern engine boards pretty soon on the boat we have just bought and were planning on covering them with astroturf so if these boards are strong enough then they may be a better option than hexagrip since we don't need the grip part.

 

Has anyone used these at all? Also, has anyone else astroturfed the stern (appreciate it's not everyone's cup of tea but did notice someone has used astroturf to help their dog get a grip).

 

Thanks

 

David

[Richard T]

Just a thought on the use of plastic boards near the engine - how do they perform in a fire? The melting point and therefore structural integrity will be much lower than that of plywood, and if they catch fire will give off noxious fumes. Whilst the material might well be fine for locker tops i would be very wary about using in near a major source of combustion e.g. stove or engine. Yes plywood does burn but its density means that this is quite slow (remember that wood with a large cross sectional area performs better in a fire than steel beams/columns of a similar size). When hot the plastic will melt and drip blobs of burning material.

[RLWP]

Just a thought on the use of plastic boards near the engine - how do they perform in a fire? The melting point and therefore structural integrity will be much lower than that of plywood, and if they catch fire will give off noxious fumes. Whilst the material might well be fine for locker tops i would be very wary about using in near a major source of combustion e.g. stove or engine. Yes plywood does burn but its density means that this is quite slow (remember that wood with a large cross sectional area performs better in a fire than steel beams/columns of a similar size). When hot the plastic will melt and drip blobs of burning material.

 

I would be wary of taking a plastic sheet, warming it up with the engine and the sun, then standing on it

 

Heaven only knows what shape it will end up

 

Richard

[Tesla]

We faced the same problem a few weeks back with our well deck. I decided to use regular ply as a temporary measure while we make good the area and because I needed to practice my (lack of) woodworking skills...

[nb Innisfree]

I would be wary of taking a plastic sheet, warming it up with the engine and the sun, then standing on it

 

Heaven only knows what shape it will end up

 

Richard

I've got a vision of the steerer slowly sinking out of sight into the engine bay.

[RLWP]

And saluting as they go

 

Richard

[Psycloud]

I've got a vision of the steerer slowly sinking out of sight into the engine bay.

 

 

And saluting as they go

 

Richard

 

Hehe, point taken. Will rethink the solution

[Psycloud]

Edit - ooops hit post twice

Edited September 13, 2012 by Psycloud