Shoreline 12v fridge - problem?

[Johny London]

I was very pleased to finally get hold of a Shoreline FD206 fridge freezer - and looking forward to turning off the inverter, (in a fight against my never ending battery woes). However, no matter how high I set the thermostat (it's at 5 now and running continually) it wont get the fridge down below 12c. I put the same thermometer in the freezer bit and it reads -12. It was a little buzzy sounding at first switch on, gurgly now and then, but runs lovely and quietly now, and initially at around no2 setting on the thermostat it seemed to be doing about the right amount of cycling after a few hours.

I think I know the answer to this one - I had to transport it and committed the cardinal sin of laying it down  So I suppose I'm clutching at straws in case anyone knows a trick or even if it might be worth a refrigeration engineer taking a look? I haven't asked Shoreline themselves yet. The fridge was unused, been stored a long time. Re gass or b*ggered? 

I think my moto should be "One step forward, two back!

[mrsmelly]

3 minutes ago, Johny London said:

I was very pleased to finally get hold of a Shoreline FD206 fridge freezer - and looking forward to turning off the inverter, (in a fight against my never ending battery woes). However, no matter how high I set the thermostat (it's at 5 now and running continually) it wont get the fridge down below 12c. I put the same thermometer in the freezer bit and it reads -12. It was a little buzzy sounding at first switch on, gurgly now and then, but runs lovely and quietly now, and initially at around no2 setting on the thermostat it seemed to be doing about the right amount of cycling after a few hours.

I think I know the answer to this one - I had to transport it and committed the cardinal sin of laying it down  So I suppose I'm clutching at straws in case anyone knows a trick or even if it might be worth a refrigeration engineer taking a look? I haven't asked Shoreline themselves yet. The fridge was unused, been stored a long time. Re gass or b*ggered? 

I think my moto should be "One step forward, two back!

I think like many people you have been blaming your inverter for your electricity problems when it was probably something else? A Good quality inverter uses next to nowt even when on 24/7 365 and enables the purchase of better quality better size and range of all manner of electrical equipment not least of which is a damn good fridge for around 150 squids. You probably had a cheap inverter? or knackered or not enough batteries or a bad charging regime as if done properly inverter on and mains kit is the way to go. Having done both ways on more than one boat I always go mains now. My mains fridge is never switched off and rarely cuts in and even today in a very hot boat at 29 degrees my fridge is at a comfy and safe 4 degrees.

[Alan de Enfield]

Apparently a fridge that has been laid down should be given 24 hours standing upright before being switched on to allow the gas to get back to 'normal'.

However if the freezer bit is working there is unlikely to be a big problem in the 'fridge' part.

 

Have you put anything in the fridge ?

Trying to cool down a big empty space is very hard work - put a few bags of frozen peas in the fridge section to bring the temperature down and then see if the fridge can maintain the temperature.

 

In normal temperatures it uses approx. 50Ah, in these temperatures I wouldn't be surprised if it isn't running 2/3 rd+ and using 100+Ah

 

Try turning your air-con a bit lower to reduce the ambient temperature so its not working so hard.

 

Performance:

• Average Amps/Hr @ 12v = 2.1
• Average 24hr consumption at 12v = 50.4 a/hrs

• Please note that power consumption is dependant upon temperature, the hotter the ambient temperature or the product you are trying to cool, the harder the fridge has to work, the longer the compressor will run and the more 12/24v power it will consume.

Edited August 4, 2018 by Alan de Enfield

[mrsmelly]

Just a thought but its bloomin ottt at present so have you got the usual numpty boxed in boat fitment or is it well ventilated?

[Johny London]

Thanks for the responses.

Firstly, my inverter is a Victron 3000 combi, so it's good quality but I have been told countless times that that is where the power goes. I believe around an amp per hour so it would save me something going 12v on the fridge - and especially if I have to leave the boat for a couple of days (more chance of batteries/solar keeping things going, though not so much with current batteries).

Also, I have fitted it into a cabinet I made, with a good gap all round (4.5cm) and no other doors in front - the top of the back does butt up against the wall though. I had thought to put one or two vents in the hull later on just to help with efficiency.

I do have something to compare it to though - my old, under counter mains fridge (with ice box bit) was cooling very happily in the same location (though admittedly without the surrounding cabinet but it is between a wall and a cupboard unit anyway) . Interestingly, I always found that the old mains fridge seemed calibrated rather powerfully - even in this weather 1.5 on the stat thing was plenty.

If anything, I think the 12v one makes a slightly buzzier noise, don't know if that is relevant. Looks like could be a job for shoreline but I will assume there wont be anyone there until Monday.

 

Just to add - the thermostat seems to work and thinks things are ok - like if it's on 5 and running and I turn it down a bit it clicks off, and so on.

Oh just another thought - there is a little plastic thing taped down with blue tape in the lower rear drain hole - the instructions said nothing about whether it should be removed or not!

Edited August 4, 2018 by Johny London

[Nut]

blue tape is normally removed could be wrong though

[Boater Sam]

Inadequate ventilation in that cabinet, its not designed to be a built in fridge, needs big vents in the shelf over it to let the heat out. Free standing it would have nothing over it.

In a fridge/freezer there is no ice box in the fridge, it is only a larder fridge, you will be lucky to get it below 8 degrees.

Check that the doors are sealing with a piece of paper trapped all round the door to cabinet seal.

Edited August 4, 2018 by Boater Sam

[mrsmelly]

Even at 1 amp per hour that's only 24 amps out of your bank per day. If I go away for a couple of nights and leave my boat with charged batteries and the fridge switched on I still have 12.3  ISH in my bank on return and no solar. I don't run a victron but my inverter " searches " between 0.4 and 0.9 amps when nothing is running. I suppose the big inverter is to run a washing machine? I would never fit a 3kw inverter as its way too big for any use I would put it under. If you don't have a washer or other large draw appliance then a smaller inverter is a better option.

[Johny London]

It said 25mm minimum clearance all round in the instructions, which it does pretty much have. However, I shall remove the shelf above and drag it forward a bit to see what happens. I would have thought it would perhaps run slightly less efficiently (ie longer compressors on cycles) but didn't expect it to totally not cope! I believe this is a Fridgemaster re badged (just saw a mains one the same on ebay for £20). I think the cooling element is in the l'h side. Or maybe both sides. The back is cool ish and covered in white corrugated cardboard.

Maybe I put too much stuff in it - all my beer bottles are touching the rear wall - I can't see how I would avoid that really.

I would have thought it would have to be able to cool adequately - at least to 5c to even be sold, surely?

Yes, it is quite a large inverter, and yes I do run a washing machine and dishwasher. I always hoped to move over to more and more 12v stuff and save the mains for when I actually need it. It's a whole debate in itself the old 240v/12v isn't it?

[mrsmelly]

2 minutes ago, Johny London said:

It said 25mm minimum clearance all round in the instructions, which it does pretty much have. However, I shall remove the shelf above and drag it forward a bit to see what happens. I would have thought it would perhaps run slightly less efficiently (ie longer compressors on cycles) but didn't expect it to totally not cope! I believe this is a Fridgemaster re badged (just saw a mains one the same on ebay for £20). I think the cooling element is in the l'h side. Or maybe both sides. The back is cool ish and covered in white corrugated cardboard.

Maybe I put too much stuff in it - all my beer bottles are touching the rear wall - I can't see how I would avoid that really.

I would have thought it would have to be able to cool adequately - at least to 5c to even be sold, surely?

Yes, it is quite a large inverter, and yes I do run a washing machine and dishwasher. I always hoped to move over to more and more 12v stuff and save the mains for when I actually need it. It's a whole debate in itself the old 240v/12v isn't it?

Just a thought again. I was brought up in a house built in the 1620s and as a kid we had a small pantry with a cold slab and fly cover for meat, many people will recall this as kids. Of course we soon moved over to fridges and mum is still in the same house and has her fridge in the small/tiny pantry with the fridge now in and she closes the door!! bless her. She gets through a new fridge every three or so years or a little longer and we all leave the pantry door open when we are at her house.

[rusty69]

1 minute ago, mrsmelly said:

Just a thought again. I was brought up in a house built in the 1620s

....... as a new build! 

[Glynn]

My daughter bought a Fridgemaster fridge/freezer and its never as cold as what I would call the "better brands". She has to have it set a full just to keep milk cold enough to keep. If I were to set mine to the coldest it would freeze milk, that said though it is an Aga.

[mrsmelly]

4 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

....... as a new build! 

[OldGoat]

13 minutes ago, Johny London said:

It said 25mm minimum clearance all round in the instructions, which it does pretty much have. However, I shall remove the shelf above and drag it forward a bit to see what happens. I would have thought it would perhaps run slightly less efficiently (ie longer compressors on cycles) but didn't expect it to totally not cope! I believe this is a Fridgemaster re badged (just saw a mains one the same on ebay for £20). I think the cooling element is in the l'h side. Or maybe both sides. The back is cool ish and covered in white corrugated cardboard.

Maybe I put too much stuff in it - all my beer bottles are touching the rear wall - I can't see how I would avoid that really.

I would have thought it would have to be able to cool adequately - at least to 5c to even be sold, surely?

Yes, it is quite a large inverter, and yes I do run a washing machine and dishwasher. I always hoped to move over to more and more 12v stuff and save the mains for when I actually need it. It's a whole debate in itself the old 240v/12v isn't it?

A  the risk of being flamed -

corrugated cardboard on the back??????

Most small fridges (and some larger ones) have exposed cooling coils on the back. Are you sure that the cardboard is not extra transit packing.....

I've recently bought a 'posh' Liebherr F/F the same size as yours and its oils are on the back as is my very, very aged Batts unit.

 

Do check (and let le know by PM if you're too embarrassed). Feel free to ridicule me if I'm wrong.  

[Alan de Enfield]

12 minutes ago, Glynn said:

though it is an Aga.

Electric, Gas, or coal fired ?

[Johny London]

11 minutes ago, Glynn said:

My daughter bought a Fridgemaster fridge/freezer and its never as cold as what I would call the "better brands". She has to have it set a full just to keep milk cold enough to keep. If I were to set mine to the coldest it would freeze milk, that said though it is an Aga.

Well, the thing is - my old one - the one with the "powerful" thermostat (never goes above 2 and less than 1 in the winter - infact it's a faff to set) is a Fridgemaster too! At least their... inconsistent?!

[Johny London]

2 minutes ago, OldGoat said:

A  the risk of being flamed -

corrugated cardboard on the back??????

Most small fridges (and some larger ones) have exposed cooling coils on the back. Are you sure that the cardboard is not extra transit packing.....

I've recently bought a 'posh' Liebherr F/F the same size as yours and its oils are on the back as is my very, very aged Batts unit.

 

Do check (and let le know by PM if you're too embarrassed). Feel free to ridicule me if I'm wrong.  

Not at all - all suggestions welcome at this stage! I think the cardboard is built in and the coils are on the side... or the coils could be behind the cardboard but it's the side gets warm...

 

[MtB]

Just now, Johny London said:

Not at all - all suggestions welcome at this stage! I think the cardboard is built in and the coils are on the side... or the coils could be behind the cardboard but it's the side gets warm...

 

 

I have a new(ish) fridge too with a flat smooth corrugated plastic back the same. I thnk mine is "Inlander" brand but I'm not sure.

 

In normal weather it works fine but in this heatwave it runs continuously for three days solid before getting down to about 5C.

[Onewheeler]

With the 230 v fridge on our mainland boat, a bog standard domestic model, we discovered that if you load it with food before it's cooled down it never gets cold (other than in the ice box). Let it cool first then put food in and it's fine.

 

Martin/

[mrsmelly]

2 minutes ago, Onewheeler said:

With the 230 v fridge on our mainland boat, a bog standard domestic model, we discovered that if you load it with food before it's cooled down it never gets cold (other than in the ice box). Let it cool first then put food in and it's fine.

 

Martin/

Food.........FOOD...........you may have found the problem. Fridges are for Beer/gin/tonic etc etc, never food there simply isn't the space!!

[Onewheeler]

Just now, mrsmelly said:

Food.........FOOD...........you may have found the problem. Fridges are for Beer/gin/tonic etc etc, never food there simply isn't the space!!

Beer / gin / tonic ARE food. Didn't you learn nothing at school?

[philjw]

3 minutes ago, Onewheeler said:

With the 230 v fridge on our mainland boat, a bog standard domestic model, we discovered that if you load it with food before it's cooled down it never gets cold (other than in the ice box). Let it cool first then put food in and it's fine.

The Shoreline instructions say that it needs to be run empty for 6 hours.

 

http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/admin/document_library/RRInstructions_BD35ONLY.v16_011211.pdf

[OldGoat]

11 minutes ago, philjw said:

The Shoreline instructions say that it needs to be run empty for 6 hours.

 

http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/admin/document_library/RRInstructions_BD35ONLY.v16_011211.pdf

Yes - but that's for a new fridge on installation - to mix the oil with the refrigerant.

[philjw]

2 hours ago, Johny London said:

The fridge was unused, been stored a long time.

I thought it was new and the OP tells us that it had been on its side so it would need to be left and run empty.

[OldGoat]

21 minutes ago, Johny London said:

Not at all - all suggestions welcome at this stage! I think the cardboard is built in and the coils are on the side... or the coils could be behind the cardboard but it's the side gets warm...

 

 

Oh well, another suggestion hit the bin....

 

All I can say is that your fridge was designed to be freestanding (for those to be fitted within a kitchen fittings, the coils tend to be at the back. In this case you have few choices to introduce reasonable air flow.

Is there anyway you could force some ventilation? I have a couple of computer fans that suck cool air from the bilge and blow it over the fridge.