Tony Brooks Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 I can't see well enough to be sure but that black ring around the adapter looks suspiciously like swollen rubber from the Torsional Oscillation Damper that is integral with the front pulley. If it is and if the rubber is soft/"squidgy" well into the pulley I would advise replacing the pulley. 1.5s have been known to snap crankshafts when the rubber weakens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimfin Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Thanks Tony. The rubber is very hard, but still rubber. I have loosened the 4 bolts and they are off the tread and just sitting there. I am thinking of using this puller to try and remove the front piece, but it is very tight. Maybe I should use some heat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Thanks Tony. The rubber is very hard, but still rubber. I have loosened the 4 bolts and they are off the tread and just sitting there. I am thinking of using this puller to try and remove the front piece, but it is very tight. Maybe I should use some heat Have a word with Tony first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 No! Do what I said and tap the end of the extension piece sideways. Tha mounting flange will come away from the pulley revealing the fixing bolt What will happen with that set up is to pull the vee groove pulley off the extension shaft Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyboy Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I fully agree with Richard, using the puller will in this way will not remove the stub shaft from the main engine pulley. Do as Richard says and tap it sideways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I fully agree with Richard, using the puller will in this way will not remove the stub shaft from the main engine pulley. Do as Richard says and tap it sideways. That is why I said ask tony, I should have said ask anyone who knows. I thought that was the case but wasnt 100% sure so didnt want to tell him wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 That is why I said ask tony, I should have said ask anyone who knows. I thought that was the case but wasnt 100% sure so didnt want to tell him wrong. That's ok Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 I have already told him to hit his drive plate with a hammer and would agree with Richard on the adaptor. Its not a bad trait but I suspect the OP is reluctant to whack things a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimfin Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Sorted. Just one smack with a rubber mallet and off it came. So next is the crank nut and pully. Have to borrow a socket tomorrow to fit it. Thanks guys. You have all been a great help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Is there a tab washer fitted? Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted November 5, 2015 Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Is there a tab washer fitted? Richard I remember the front pulley falling off my Triumph Spitfire after I rebuilt the engine, I even managed to pick it up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimfin Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2015 Is there a tab washer fitted? Richard No Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheshire cat Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Can't wait for the next episode. I haven't done a b series but I have done a c series. The crankshaft bolt was unbelievably tight and involved me and the block having a wrestling match. In the absence of power tools the only way forward was to weld something to the flywheel to stop it turning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Can't wait for the next episode. I haven't done a b series but I have done a c series. The crankshaft bolt was unbelievably tight and involved me and the block having a wrestling match. In the absence of power tools the only way forward was to weld something to the flywheel to stop it turning. If no decent impact wrench and suitable socket are available the easiest way I found if a big screwdriver between the starter aperture and flywheel tooth would not hold was to take the sump off and put block of wood between a big end and crankcase. It often also needed someone to hold the block down as well. I thought they were supposed to have a tab washer on as well as Richard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Not easy to see too - I end up wondering why the socket won't go on until I shine a torch into the dark recesses Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 Quite often these pulley nuts or bolts can be be jerked undone by use of the starter motor. By placing a stout socket and longish bar on the bolt, and 'looking face on to the engines front' lay the bar over to the right hand side onto the bilge, engine bearer or whatever solid is there, then make sure that the engine stop is in the stop position and give a jab or two on the starter button. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimfin Posted November 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 This engine is on an engine stand and has the flywheel and bell housing removed. Got my hands on a 33mm 3/4 drive socket this morning and it is a good fit. Far as I know this is a RH tread. So, am I right to say that to undo the crank nut looking at the nut I turn clockwise?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 This engine is on an engine stand and has the flywheel and bell housing removed. Got my hands on a 33mm 3/4 drive socket this morning and it is a good fit. Far as I know this is a RH tread. So, am I right to say that to undo the crank nut looking at the nut I turn clockwise?? No, its anti-clockwise and make sure there is no tab washer, if so tap the tab away flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Evans Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 (edited) I think that should be anti-clockwise. Admittedly, I'm sitting in front of the screen twiddling my fingers in imitation of doing up and undoing nuts and bolts but I think that's right. Beaten by Biz! Edited November 6, 2015 by Paul Evans Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimfin Posted November 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 There is no tab on this. I have checked with finger and flash light. I always get confused when people talk about RH and LH treads. Found out this morning that RH is the standard tread. So when undoing my nut later today I go anti clockwise to undo it. Right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted November 6, 2015 Report Share Posted November 6, 2015 There is no tab on this. I have checked with finger and flash light. I always get confused when people talk about RH and LH treads. Found out this morning that RH is the standard tread. So when undoing my nut later today I go anti clockwise to undo it. Right. Right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Right. Left actually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyboy Posted November 7, 2015 Report Share Posted November 7, 2015 Left actually. Only if the spanner is upwards (12 o'clock). If the spanner is at 6 o'clock it's right. Right? Much better to say anti-clockwise so as not to confuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimfin Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Update. Got the nut off the crank and have removed the timing chain cover. Will put on a new gasget here. Checked the big ends and they look ok. Poped out a piston to check the rings. Top ring has about a 3mm gap half way down the bore. So. Where am I going to get a standard set of rings??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 (edited) Update. Got the nut off the crank and have removed the timing chain cover. Will put on a new gasget here. Checked the big ends and they look ok. Poped out a piston to check the rings. Top ring has about a 3mm gap half way down the bore. So. Where am I going to get a standard set of rings??? Probably Calcutt Marina or maybe a motor factor ASAP Supplies have lots of other bits but not rings http://www.asap-supplies.com/brands/ae Edited November 11, 2015 by ditchcrawler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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