Jump to content

BMC 1.8 Dismantle


jimfin

Featured Posts

I can't see well enough to be sure but that black ring around the adapter looks suspiciously like swollen rubber from the Torsional Oscillation Damper that is integral with the front pulley. If it is and if the rubber is soft/"squidgy" well into the pulley I would advise replacing the pulley. 1.5s have been known to snap crankshafts when the rubber weakens.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Tony. The rubber is very hard, but still rubber.

I have loosened the 4 bolts and they are off the tread and just sitting there.

I am thinking of using this puller to try and remove the front piece, but it is very tight. Maybe I should use some heat

post-17570-0-60835600-1446737240_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Tony. The rubber is very hard, but still rubber.

I have loosened the 4 bolts and they are off the tread and just sitting there.

I am thinking of using this puller to try and remove the front piece, but it is very tight. Maybe I should use some heat

Have a word with Tony first

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No! Do what I said and tap the end of the extension piece sideways. Tha mounting flange will come away from the pulley revealing the fixing bolt

 

What will happen with that set up is to pull the vee groove pulley off the extension shaft

 

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fully agree with Richard, using the puller will in this way will not remove the stub shaft from the main engine pulley. Do as Richard says and tap it sideways.

That is why I said ask tony, I should have said ask anyone who knows. I thought that was the case but wasnt 100% sure so didnt want to tell him wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't wait for the next episode. I haven't done a b series but I have done a c series. The crankshaft bolt was unbelievably tight and involved me and the block having a wrestling match. In the absence of power tools the only way forward was to weld something to the flywheel to stop it turning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't wait for the next episode. I haven't done a b series but I have done a c series. The crankshaft bolt was unbelievably tight and involved me and the block having a wrestling match. In the absence of power tools the only way forward was to weld something to the flywheel to stop it turning.

 

If no decent impact wrench and suitable socket are available the easiest way I found if a big screwdriver between the starter aperture and flywheel tooth would not hold was to take the sump off and put block of wood between a big end and crankcase. It often also needed someone to hold the block down as well. I thought they were supposed to have a tab washer on as well as Richard.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quite often these pulley nuts or bolts can be be jerked undone by use of the starter motor. By placing a stout socket and longish bar on the bolt, and 'looking face on to the engines front' lay the bar over to the right hand side onto the bilge, engine bearer or whatever solid is there, then make sure that the engine stop is in the stop position and give a jab or two on the starter button.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This engine is on an engine stand and has the flywheel and bell housing removed.

 

Got my hands on a 33mm 3/4 drive socket this morning and it is a good fit.

 

Far as I know this is a RH tread. So, am I right to say that to undo the crank nut looking at the nut I turn clockwise??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This engine is on an engine stand and has the flywheel and bell housing removed.

 

Got my hands on a 33mm 3/4 drive socket this morning and it is a good fit.

 

Far as I know this is a RH tread. So, am I right to say that to undo the crank nut looking at the nut I turn clockwise??

No, its anti-clockwise and make sure there is no tab washer, if so tap the tab away flat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think that should be anti-clockwise. Admittedly, I'm sitting in front of the screen twiddling my fingers in imitation of doing up and undoing nuts and bolts but I think that's right.

 

Beaten by Biz!

Edited by Paul Evans
Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no tab on this. I have checked with finger and flash light.

 

I always get confused when people talk about RH and LH treads.

 

Found out this morning that RH is the standard tread. So when undoing my nut later today I go anti clockwise to undo it. Right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is no tab on this. I have checked with finger and flash light.

 

I always get confused when people talk about RH and LH treads.

 

Found out this morning that RH is the standard tread. So when undoing my nut later today I go anti clockwise to undo it. Right.

Right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update. Got the nut off the crank and have removed the timing chain cover. Will put on a new gasget here.

Checked the big ends and they look ok.

Poped out a piston to check the rings. Top ring has about a 3mm gap half way down the bore.

So. Where am I going to get a standard set of rings???

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update. Got the nut off the crank and have removed the timing chain cover. Will put on a new gasget here.

Checked the big ends and they look ok.

Poped out a piston to check the rings. Top ring has about a 3mm gap half way down the bore.

So. Where am I going to get a standard set of rings???

Probably Calcutt Marina or maybe a motor factor

 

ASAP Supplies have lots of other bits but not rings http://www.asap-supplies.com/brands/ae

Edited by ditchcrawler
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.