BMC 1.8 Dismantle

[jimfin]

I now have me engine out of the boat for gasget and seal replacement opperation.

 

I have the gearbox off and am looking at the clutch flywheel. I have removed all the outter bolts but nothing comming loose.

 

How do I remove the clutch.

[RLWP]

Undo the six around the middle

 

I'm not entirely clear what you have there - I think you may have unbolted a secondary flywheel bolted to the original

 

Richard

[Tony Brooks]

I just blew the image up. Although 1.5s should/did have a bulk ring this one looks as if there is a small step around the outside of the face. That and the polished rings around the bolt holes makes me suspect a good whack with a hammer will shock the drive plate off.

 

I know what you mean by the six inner bolts but they look non-standard to me. As if someone has bolted a new centre into an old plate.

I just blew the image up. Although 1.5s should/did have a bulk ring this one looks as if there is a small step around the outside of the face. That and the polished rings around the bolt holes makes me suspect a good whack with a hammer will shock the drive plate off.

 

I know what you mean by the six inner bolts but they look non-standard to me. As if someone has bolted a new centre into an old plate. Those inner "bolts" are nuts so probably have a head on the inside. I have never seen studs used to secure a drive plate but you never know.

[RLWP]

So many mysteries, Tony

 

Let's face it, just undoing all the bolts then some BF&I would be a good start faced with a challenge like this

 

Richard

Edited October 30, 2015 by RLWP

[jimfin]

Problem solved. In the picture you will see 3 smaller holes around the outside of the disc. Using 3 of the bolts that hold the disc to the flywheel, screw these into the smaller holes as they are treaded. They push the disc off the flywheel.

Thanks for input.

[RLWP]

Can we see the disc that came off please?

 

Richard

[jimfin]

No problem. The springs in the center of the clutch are not broken but I can see that some of them are well worn. Where do I look to get a replacement?

 

How do I add a pic in the reply section? Cannot find the right button? Want to add the pic from my computer!!

[jimfin]

Started a new topic for the clutch. You can check out the pic there.

[RLWP]

 

OK, it's not a clutch, it's a driveplate - that will help

 

What gearbox do you have?

 

Richard

[RLWP]

Your best bet is to call Midland Chandlers. They'll talk you through a process to identify a driveplate for you. They will want to know some details, like the diameter of your plate, the number of holes, the spline size and number of teeth

 

Richard

[jimfin]

Continuing with dismantaling my engine I removed the head today. I'm not sure where I heard it, but are valve guide seals used in this engine. Mine has none but should they be fitted?

[RLWP]

Yes, I think so - they will be in the joint set

 

Richard

[jimfin]

Yes they were in the joint set. Should have checked. My engine only had 4 fitted to the exhaust valves only.

OK. Next problem. How do I remove the flywheel. I have the bolts out. Do I make up a puller of can I keep tapping it through the starter hole as I rotate the engine. Is it on a taper. Is there a keyway??

[RLWP]

No taper, it has a location diameter and a dowel

 

I tap them off through the starter hole

 

Richard

[BEngo]

Yes they were in the joint set. Should have checked. My engine only had 4 fitted to the exhaust valves only.

OK. Next problem. How do I remove the flywheel. I have the bolts out. Do I make up a puller of can I keep tapping it through the starter hole as I rotate the engine. Is it on a taper. Is there a keyway??

 

The valve-stem oil seals should be on the inlet valves, not the exhaust valves. They stop oil getting sucked into inlets by the low pressure in the inlet manifold and then burnt. The high pressure in the exhaust ports prevents oil getting into the exhaust.

 

N

[jimfin]

The marks on the top of the piston are JAM 1488 and a small box with 2 in it. Anyone know if these are standard or oversize.

The valve-stem oil seals should be on the inlet valves, not the exhaust valves. They stop oil getting sucked into inlets by the low pressure in the inlet manifold and then burnt. The high pressure in the exhaust ports prevents oil getting into the exhaust.

N

There are 8 seals in the kit! Are you saying not to fit them to the exhaust valves??

[RLWP]

I always fit them on all the valves. That's how modern engines are built

 

Richard

[jimfin]

I always fit them on all the valves. That's how modern engines are built

 

Richard

Was thinking that myself. Don't like having parts left over!!

 

Got the flywheel off. Just used a tyre lever in through the starter hole.

 

Now to mount it on an engine stand and make things a little easer for working on it.

[RLWP]

I don't recognise the number you found on the piston. Are there any other numbers?

 

Richard

[Tony Brooks]

I think the 2 in a diamond shaped box is the "grade" number that are used at initial manufacturer's assembly to give the optimum fit in the bore. I seem to remember BMC used 4 "grades" with each one being a slightly different size.

 

I do not thing it has any relevance during overhaul.

 

I also do not recognise the other number but if the pistons are graded it is more likely to be standard, however best to measure so you are sure.

[jimfin]

OK. Next job is to remove the front crank pully so as I can get at the timing cover.

 

After I undo the 4 bolts will to just pull or leaver of with 2 tyre irons???

[RLWP]

There should be a nut in the middle. Can you take a photo please?

 

Richard

[Flyboy]

 

OK, it's not a clutch, it's a driveplate - that will help

 

What gearbox do you have?

 

Richard

It looks to me that the driveplate has been made from a clutch plate that's had the lining removed.

 

ASAP have some similar plates on page 96 of their catalogue. :- https://www.asap-supplies.com/file_uploads/pdf/ASAP-Catalogue-Section-6-Engine-Spares-and-Gearboxes.pdf

[jimfin]

This is what I have. I have loosend the small grub screw at the front.

[RLWP]

Right, you have an adapter bolted to the front of the pulley. Undo the four bolts and tap the end of the adapter sideways with a soft mallet. That should remove it and reveal the main bolt that holds the pulley on

 

Richard