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how to pack my double skinned chimney?


Ssscrudddy

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That doesn't seem right to me, my inner liner fits in the flue as I believe is the right way, never packed my chimney and never had any issues with crud dripping around spoiling the paintwork.

Guess you need to bridge the gap to get the most benefit, bodge s bit of steel plate to do it maybe.

Phil

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We use rolled up kitchen foil pushed into the gap between the chimney inner and outer. No need to fill the whole cavity, just the bit at the bottom. It stops easy circulation of gasses in the cavity and thus prevents condensation and leakage of gunge onto the roof. It does corrode away and needs replacing every year, but only takes a few moments to do.

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OK - stupid suggestion time. It has never stopped me before. Are you fitting the inner the right away round? I wasn't and only found out when I bought a new (discounted) inner. The seller just made a passing remark 'do you know the easy way to fit it?'. Turns out I was fitting mine upside down. Both old and new versions are really just a flat sheet of metal pressed into a cylinder but with an overlap. So squeeze the cylinder to reduce the diameter and feed the NARROW end into the roof collar - yes-upside down! Now manipulate the outer over the inner. Might take a bit more squeezing and jamming but now I have no gap at the top of the inner. Makes my coolie hat (am I allowed to call it that?) harder to fit and to dislodge. And it has reduced the amount of cr@p running down the cabin side. Might seem obvious but........

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OK - stupid suggestion time. It has never stopped me before. Are you fitting the inner the right away round? I wasn't and only found out when I bought a new (discounted) inner. The seller just made a passing remark 'do you know the easy way to fit it?'. Turns out I was fitting mine upside down. Both old and new versions are really just a flat sheet of metal pressed into a cylinder but with an overlap. So squeeze the cylinder to reduce the diameter and feed the NARROW end into the roof collar - yes-upside down! Now manipulate the outer over the inner. Might take a bit more squeezing and jamming but now I have no gap at the top of the inner. Makes my coolie hat (am I allowed to call it that?) harder to fit and to dislodge. And it has reduced the amount of cr@p running down the cabin side. Might seem obvious but........

. I have a smokey joe chimney and it comes with a reverse tapered liner as you describe, my white yoghurt pot always had a dirty stain running down the outside, but this has stopped since I fitted it, also only £13 to replace the liner when it rots instead of £70 for a new chimney
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We use rolled up kitchen foil pushed into the gap between the chimney inner and outer. No need to fill the whole cavity, just the bit at the bottom. It stops easy circulation of gasses in the cavity and thus prevents condensation and leakage of gunge onto the roof. It does corrode away and needs replacing every year, but only takes a few moments to do.

I used to do exactly this, with reasonable results, but my latest inner I've jammed (narrow end down, as pointed out, into the collar and flue, instead of up into the chimney. I tap it down until the chimney just fits tightly over it. No packing used since.

 

Obviously, removing the chimney for very low bridges leaves the liner in place, but I've only had to extract the liner as well for Standedge Tunnel last week.

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As far as I'm concerned, the inner liner should always be long enough to fit inside the collar, anything shorter is a waste of time. Ours is the same length as the chimney proper, made by a respected maker who sadly no longer makes the things. I'm careful with low bridges!

We also have a single skinned " Winter chimney ", used when we can't be bothered to polish brass in the cooler months, though I'm careful to remove any tar stains promptly.

Dave

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