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Everything posted by Opener

  1. Been reading the BBC website item about the lifeboat launch to rescue four in a rowing boat travelling from Wales to Ireland. 😲
  2. " There is currently no water in the system, radiators need reconnecting. I was only trying to light the pilot briefly as a test. " - I'd GUESS that that should not compromise your test. When working the boiler main burner cycles. Burner on = heat - water in boiler gets heated - reaches set temperature (how far round the black knob is set) switches off gas to burner - water cools/pumped around circuit - thermostat senses drop in temp - gas to burner - ignites via pilot. I'd reckon that a SHORT period with the pilot lit - even with the main burner on - should not be detrimental - but a short period otherwise you will be trying to burn the water jacket.
  3. Step 1 - what MtB says. I don't even bother with the Alde first any more. Always purge the gas line first by lighting the hob. THEN try the Alde. It still takes a while to purge that shorter arm. Step 2 - if you are sufficiently flexible, grovel on the floor looking through the sight glass whilst pressing your contact switch (don't bother about gas at this stage) - are you getting a healthy spark at the electrode? I've found over a few years of ownership that the spark generator module is practically a disposable item. It does not seem to like Winter-long neglect and if you have not ego-massaged yours for a couple of years it may be sulking. Replacement may be the answer. [I've got a telltale lamp in circuit with my manual switch so I have an indication of sparking without the need to grovel on the floor quite as much]
  4. Can't see any mooring rings - hope he finds one soon.
  5. One down side of caravanning we found was making up the bed every day/evening. Definite plus on a boat is that the bed is there and ready when we want it. Sometimes used during the day as a comfortable reading base. We are 50ft/cruiser stern. Sounds like, however, you are used to 'making' the bed every day so maybe that is not an issue. Have you got somewhere convenient/sensible to store the pillows/sheets/duvet/act during the day?
  6. Can I slightly hijack this thread with my own question (on behalf of others who do not have fixed solar available)? for Winter I drain down water already in the system. Used to drain the tank to the dregs but got sick of that - watching paint dry much more exciting!! Blow pipes through, leave taps open, close water tank feed, blinds drawn and window vents closed. After some thought I think I know the answer to my question but I'd like someone to contradict and tell me its a brilliant idea. Here goes: a. one of those portable solar panels you can link up to your 12v battery to trickle charge it - aimed at vehicles that do not go far very often. b. a small fan heater such as those designed for clearing vehicle windscreens - they plug into cigar lighter socket. I've got a nice South facing window with no neighboring boat (at the moment) so I'd fix the panel in that window and link to the fan. OK - daytime working only but it would stir up the air and provide very limited warmth. I'm not aiming for a temperature in the teens comfortable to sit in - just take the chill off if it gets really cold in my absence. If it gets too balmy, surplus heat would exit via mushrooms/door vents/chimney. The catch, to my ignorant eye, is that the panel pumps out up to about 20W and the fan uses around 100 to 150W. So would I get any worthwhile effect and does anyone know of more compatible kit - fan or panel - without getting into silly money for limited effect. I've already got a greenhouse heater on thermostatic control / shoreline but would like to augment with something lightweight.
  7. It came along the towpath - didn't you see it? ["Horses for courses" - do keep up!!]
  8. Depends upon your definition of 'effective' - does what it says on the box/tin. It absorbs moisture. In fact, it will absorb up to about 50cc. Then it will stop or, at least, it might do. I had a similar one in a cold corner of the house until just last week. Found that it was full to the brim with 'moisture' and had overflowed onto a sensitive surface - not impressed! It's all going to depend upon how 'wet' your boat is. I've always been a bit skeptical about trying to keep damp free a steel box full of holes (mushrooms vents/door grills/windows) which floats on water. All you are doing is moving the moisture from outside inside and capturing it. Boat-wise, I have had two rechargeable dehumidifiers on board (nominal 50ft, cruiser stern) for years. They are a simple plastic trough about 7-8" by 3" by a couple of inches deep. Slatted compartment at the top which I fill up with 'Damp Kontrol Krystals' as required (after emptying liquid from trough). I've augmented that with a couple of the el cheapo disposable ones at around £1 a pop. I've also added a Unibond Aero 360. OK - a bit over the top but the boat smells fresh and dry at every visit with no obvious signs of damp where it should not be. So, in answer to your original question: 'yes'. If we are talking about a boat, I'd guess you'd need about a couple of dozen of that size to have any effect and replace every couple of months (if you're lucky).
  9. Quite agree - on efficacy question and about horses. I was always conscious of cold feet in the cold evenings and overpowering heat at head height when I stood up or walked back into the lounge area. Since AOF (advent of the fan), things are a lot more even - feet not necessarily warmer but there is a much reduced heat gradient between seated body and standing head. and a fan is a very effective early warning of the need to add fuel.
  10. That's the one I've got. Had it a few years so guessing I got it from large DIY shop with b and q in it's name. Switches dependent device on or off manually or set it to auto to power up at temperatures between zero and 40+ degrees (adjustable). Takes AAA battery so ignores power cuts. Weirdly, creates a small amount of its own heat so not necessarily deadly accurate for switch on temp. Comments from Tony apply to mine as well.
  11. As suggested, the stove is half the story. There are 'consumables'. You need to get the fire going: fire lighters - mine live in an old biscuit/sweetie tin to preserve activity and disguise smell. Kindling - amount depends upon how proficient you become - about a cubit foot. Fuel - my 'coal' lives in a biggish box/seat on the foredeck. Two or three bags in stock - it's dirty! I also keep a days supply by the stove. Drying it out plus handy to load. Glove or tongs to put it in the stove (or mucky hand). Got space under the settee, so instant logs stored there in original plastic - otherwise they'll absorb damp and disintegrate. Ash - what you gonna do with it? OK in marina but what about out cruising? Oh, and gas wand to light stove - much safer thanmatches. Second hand newspaper plus magic spray to clean your door glass periodically - it doesn't make the stove any warmer but boy does it look warmer. Flue thermometer - meaningless but tells you when to load fuel. Stove top fan ??? Opinions vary 🤭.
  12. Not very sophisticated-looking but the lightweight telescopic rods for threading into the bottom or top of net curtains. Sits on lightweight hooks at each end so could be removable for daytime. Quick paint to match your decor.
  13. Hmm!! My system is configured as I inherited it so don't shoot the messenger! Sounds like you have to switch power to the boiler only via the room stat with switch ON and thermostat saying TOO LOW ie power the boiler and light the gas (presuming the pilot is already lit). If only at startup you still have to power from the room stat end then go through the boiler/pilot light up sequence. I've never compared my setup to the 'official' wiring diagram - sounds like it is set up in a non-standard config. As previously, I can light the boiler/pilot then main burner with the switch on the room stat off (although the thermostat will always be set high). Then start the pump using the switch on the (remote) room stat. It still cycles on/off normally although it is only hot water that I am after. The OP is getting continual sparking. I'm guessing regardless of the position of the control knob or room stat. So, as has been suggested, the microswitch is faulty or out of adjustment. With the control knob OFF the cam on the microswitch should surely pop out (switch off power to the sparky thingy) so it is stuck in or blocked in in some way. Sounds like step 1 is to examine the microswitch.
  14. "I don't fully understand what is proposed." I know what I mean!! Never was too hot on explaining to other people.........😏 "The pump and the whole heater is switched via the thermostat switch" - not strictly true - not on mine at least. Your upright unit has its own power supply which includes powering the igniter which, in turn depends upon the microswitch (or, in my case, a manual switch). So, you can turn the heater on to heat the water but, without the pump, only the water in the unit will be heated - not good!! I have a room stat remote from the Alde itself. Once the boiler is ignited and the water temperature is set via the black knob I have to go to the room stat. That has a temperature setting and a switch. The switch turns on power to the pump in the top of the boiler / in the header tank. But the pump will only work if the stat is turned up above room temperature. A bit like your system at home (??) Set the room stat at the desired temp. The pump will work until the set room temp is reached then stop pumping. Temp within boiler unit rises because no demand for water being pumped until boiler thermostat turns gas off. Room temp drops - pump switches on - hot water pumped out of boiler - replaced by cool - boiler stat kicks in - boiler relights. Repeat ad nauseam. Thus a common complaint with Alde Comfort - it doesn't work. Pump does not come on. Step one - check the temperature set on the room stat. If it is set low it thinks the pump is not required to pump hot water around the heating system. Pump will only work once Winter comes around. So does your room stat include a switch. If 'yes' switch that on once the boiler is working but set the temp pretty high - I always use the max cos my 'heating system' is useless. I agree with your sequence for the 2928 - one hand IF your microswitch is operating to spec - mine doesn't. So one hand for the knob and one for my jumper switch which bypasses the microswitch. If I read this right, you turn on at the room stat first before operating the ignition - had not thought of that or tried that. Nothing wrong with that sequence but my pump is a bit noisy so I prefer to light boiler unit in silence - listen for the whump!! - then turn the pump on via the switch in the room stat.
  15. As commented elsewhere, ignition of the Alde is very dependent upon the correct adjustment and operation of the microswitch. If you've tried to adjust it you will know how to get at it. So, why not cheat? Many of us have. Bypass the microswitch and install a handy 12v manual switch. Then you just need two hands for the ignition sequence rather than one. Turn the control knob to the 'spark' position - operate your switch - wait for ignition (you should be able to hear it) - turn off your switch - hold the control knob until the thermocouple is warmed up - turn the control knob to the desired setting - switch on pump. A pilot lamp in circuit can be handy just to confirm you are getting a good far spark.
  16. If placing the unit on a plinth leaves legs dangling, surely one solution could be to use a bigger plinth so that the toilet AND the users feet are on the plinth. The answer to that might be defined by what else is at the existing floor level eg cupboard/shower/entrance door. Creative design called for!
  17. I've got a similar design to robtheplod ie central hatch with an overhang at the front (see about 9:30 in video). My solution was slightly less technical. Length of flexible strip measured to the width between the runners. Height of strip defined by distance from roof up to slightly less than curve at top of front edge of hatch. Then a length of fairly beefy duct tape - I actually got one of the fancy ones that is a similar colour to the boat. Duct tape half on the flexible strip and half on the front face of the hatch so that the strip almost 'wipes' the roof when the hatch is opened. The intention is not to actually wipe the roof - just to stop heavy rain splashing up off the roof and under the front lip of the hatch. Has worked well so far. Not a permanent solution - the tape probably lasts about a year before it looks a bit tatty but its a ten minute job to remove, clean metal and replace tape.
  18. Have a look at " 151 Stop That Leak Spray " available via Amazon. There are a lot of reports from dissatisfied users who have tried to use it on everything but the stated purpose. I've used it on a felted garage roof on leaky joins and overlaps. So far the work appears successful. Needs to be a dry location so that it can adhere, sprayed in the right place so that you are sealing the actual leak but only comes in 'BLACK' (a la Henry Ford) so a repair may look a bit conspicuous. As a user reports, the can is not designed for accurate application - but you will get a wide 'field of fire'. Good luck.
  19. A wide-beamed neighbour had an effective solution. A flat plate with a short upstand at the outside edge. Fits, via a central hole, snugly round the roof collar. Plate naturally slopes overboard. Any nasties run onto/ collect on the plate and run to the lowest edge where a gap in the upstand feeds into an attached straight length of pipe long enough to allow run off to miss the cabin side. A bonus is that it is open to the sky so gets washed by rain. Plate can be round, square or whatever.
  20. Me neither - I clicked on the first OP post 🤔
  21. Step 1: take a trip to Skipton on a nice day. Take a skippered trip with Pennine (short) or Skipton ((longer/further) - sit and watch the scenery/ducks go by. Even have a meal on board if you fancy. Step 2: try and book a day boat. Pennine, Skipton and Snaygill all have well equipped day boats. Great for a half-day, day or evening out. You can see a fair bit in a day + no luggage required (take food/refreshments). Step 3: short break on a full sized boat from any of the above +Silsden. You'll work out whether you can live on/steer a biggun. Don't worry about L&L locks and bridges. If you get stuck there'll be another boat along soon - could be an experienced skipper or total amateur. You'll work it out between you - that's half the fun of narras. Go for it!
  22. Good news - you've got a lock free section between the top of Bingley and the bottom of Gargrave. 17 miles and at least three hire firms with a good selection of boat sizes (period and day hire). Bad news - there are stacks of swing bridges on the stretch. Plenty of scenery, towns, moorings and nothing too complicated to navigate.
  23. If ducks are the solution to duckweed, what do you do about fairy floating moss?
  24. Boats do weird things to you. Just come back from a few days in a ditch. Usually get a degree of boat head. But at one point, in a known shallow mooring, I had to get off the boat and rock it. I was convinced we were aground cos I was not conscious of any movement as I moved around the boat. I would hope you get used to the motion otherwise you'll miss out on the joys of boating in torrential rain/ howling wind / etc. Maybe Stugeron is a short-term answer till you 'get your legs'. PS - what is Mal de Mayor? Is having a problem with your Local Authority?
  25. Serious question - can you get '..lower hull sides cut out..'? Would that be conditional on a strip out and refit? Presumably interior fittings are fixed to whatever which in turn are fitted to the hull. It would all fall down when the hull is cut out. Sounds a bit like building a boat from scratch (almost) - you'd only have a few original bits to work with.
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