chunkyj Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 What are people opinions on these ropes please? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/COMPLETE-SET-OF-3-X-14MM-ROPES-FOR-CANAL-NARROW-BOATS-IN-ASSORTED-COLOURS-/281077986249?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item41718db3c9 Need some new ones to bring back a 45ft Cruiser Stern from Alvechurch to Earith Thanks in advance James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Ambrose Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Hi James, yeah they look OK. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 You could have 35 metres of that stuff here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14mm-3-strand-Black-Polyester-boating-rope-35mtr-/351414388316?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item51d1ee065c Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chunkyj Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Hi guys, thanks. Richard, it seems worth the extra few quid to me that they are ready made / spliced Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Hi guys, thanks. Richard, it seems worth the extra few quid to me that they are ready made / spliced Fair enough. You only get eye splices on one end, heat sealed the other. I thought the extra 13 metres might be attractive Not to me though, I don't like that flimsy black stuff - that's a personal choice mind Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chunkyj Posted June 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 2 x 10 metres mooring + 12m centre made 32 metres when I were a lad 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 (edited) 2 x 10 metres mooring + 12m centre made 32 metres when I were a lad It does indeed. So, you've got a front and rear line nearly as long as your boat, and a centre line that is easily long enough to get into your prop. You could manage with a pair of longer lines, one each end. The front line would run along the roof to the rear On the other hand, just buying three ready made lines is a simple option. You could always put the longer line onto the front, not the centre Richard Edited June 7, 2015 by RLWP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bizzard Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 When I was a lad it was ''One hundred and four feet, eleven inches and twenty seven thirty twoths of an inch. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
furnessvale Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 When I was a lad it was ''One hundred and four feet, eleven inches and twenty seven thirty twoths of an inch. Thank you. Proper measurements are sooo much easier for us old fogeys. George ex nb Alton retired Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Thank you. Proper measurements are sooo much easier for us old fogeys. George ex nb Alton retired A long hundred foot then Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark99 Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Anyone ever use only floating lines? (My two centreliners dont reach the prop but the rear mooring line obviously does and all our warps/lines/ropes float just in case). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 What you mean by 'only floating ropes'? Our hempoline ropes float Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHutch Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 Proper centerlines will reach the prop. Never had and issue yet. The op's ebay link looks fine to me, doesn't say what they are made from, but I presume they are polyester, which is fine and what we have always used, although I might get polyprop next time and try that. Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Ambrose Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 Proper centerlines will reach the prop. Never had and issue yet. The op's ebay link looks fine to me, doesn't say what they are made from, but I presume they are polyester, which is fine and what we have always used, although I might get polyprop next time and try that. Daniel I've had polyprop rope in the past but found it weakened and degraded in sunlight, don't trust the stuff, Hempex for me everytimePhil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHutch Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 I've had polyprop rope in the past but found it weakened and degraded in sunlight, don't trust the stuff, Hempex for me everytime Phil Hempex/polyhemp IS polypropylene.... I am sure there are low grade polyprops that dont have much (any) uv stabilisers, as well as a the gastly course blue stuff, but while I should have been clearer, I am not talking about that. What you mean by 'only floating ropes'? Our hempoline ropes float Richard Ropes that don't sink. Some of ours sunk like a stone when in water - now replaced - all ropes float on surface if dropped by accident.Aka,polypropylene ropes. Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 Hempex/polyhemp IS polypropylene.... Daniel As is Baler twine - and that stuff lasts forever I came across a piece of orange rope plied up from baler twine the other day. I didn't like it Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nearlythere Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 As regards to mooring a 57 ft narrowboat, would you recommend 14mm or 16mm rope? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 Whatever feels more comfortable in your hands. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 (edited) Whatever feels more comfortable in your hands. Neil And generally a thicker line feels more comfortable in the hand, especially when you need to pull on it to bring the boat in. Edited June 12, 2015 by Mike the Boilerman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Saunders Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 The ready eye-spliced rope rope is a good option if you don't want to splice it yourself. I make my eye splices a tight fit over the stern dollies and tee stud. ideally, have a line attached to each dolly rather than have to swap it over. Also ideally, I would have soft handling lines for cruising (stored inboard when on a permanent mooring) and more durable permanent lines left on the bank/pontoon ready to be picked up with the boat-hook. 14mm Hempex is adequate and nice to handle. It is soft and UV stabilised but subject to insect (earwig?) attack. Larger diameter lines that I inherited are stiff and difficult to coil, handle and throw. I have a very long centre line in a much smaller diameter (10mm?) - for temporary mooring at a lock or bridge landing I can take a turn through a ring/around a bollard take the line back to a ring/bollard near the stern and tie off to a stern dolly. 10mm is much easier to handle in a long length but I hope I never need it to stop the boat. Many boats have two centre lines which avoids the need to learn to 'whip' it over chimneys, aerials etc. from one side to the other. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeping Up Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 And generally a thicker line feels more comfortable in the hand, especially when you need to pull on it to bring the boat in. I agree, I'd always go for the thicker rope for this very reason. It's also easier to throw if you want to lasso a bollard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jess-- Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 all this talk of mooring lines recently is making me nervous.. I'm using 10mm or 12mm braid on braid (normally used as climbing rope) because I had a reel of it spare. I know in the past I have used the same rope to pull fully loaded (probably overloaded) transits out of ditches, to my mind if a rope can withstand a 3.9 v8 rangerover in low ratio being floored it should be able to handle mooring loads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 12, 2015 Report Share Posted June 12, 2015 I hope you have properly spliced eyes in the end of your kernmantle ropes. Richard I have a couple of books that show how to do it, I've never had the opportunity to try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scholar Gypsy Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 all this talk of mooring lines recently is making me nervous.. I'm using 10mm or 12mm braid on braid (normally used as climbing rope) because I had a reel of it spare. I know in the past I have used the same rope to pull fully loaded (probably overloaded) transits out of ditches, to my mind if a rope can withstand a 3.9 v8 rangerover in low ratio being floored it should be able to handle mooring loads. Good point. I don't think strength is really what people are discussing, for the reason you say. A snapping rope or failing T Stud or dollyis always going to be pretty risky for people in the vicinity. It is ease of handling, ability to chuck over a bollard, tendency to tie itself in knots, ability to trap fingers. I also agree with the earlier point about using old ropes when the boat is moored up, putting the nice ones inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted June 13, 2015 Report Share Posted June 13, 2015 I don't think Alan said old ropes when moored up he said more robust and store the softer handling lines inside until cruising. Neil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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