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Fairleads or Eyebolts for centre lines?


Ssscrudddy

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So what should I get, fairleads or eyebolts for my centre lines?

I already know that fairleads will look better than eyebolts, & also I will be able to get the rope out quickly if needed, but if using eyebolts then the whole length of the rope will need to be threaded through the eye. I'm not overly about re-sale as I intend keeping this boat until I die, & if I do change my mind it would only be some minor work to remove them again (eyebolts that is).

What I am bothered about is my solar panels, the legs supporting them are quite flimsy, & they simply wont be able to take any strain, if say the rope 'pops out' of the fairlead. I have 4 panels, 3 behind the centre point & 1 in front.

I think my ropes are 22mm thick, I dont want to go any thinner. I only have 1 atm, but I need to get a 2nd centre line before I can go cruising. Trying to flick it over the panels isnt really an option.

IMG_20141113_114941.jpg

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Do you use your centre line to control the boat in locks?

 

If so I'd use fairleads as the use of eye bolts will put pressure on the rail and may pull out. Also because of the acute angle of the rope coming up when boat is in an empty lock may make it more difficult to control.

We have fairleads and it is useful to have the centre rope direct from the "D" ring when ascending a lock. I use the fairleads when controling the boat from the bank side.

 

My view, others may differ?

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Eyebolts every time, on the roof the rope is too likely to slip out of a fairlead. It's only on hole to drill and you can take them off we you come to sell. Fairleads work well horizontally but there're not really designed to work with a near vertical rope.

K

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A "back end rail" similar to what a working boat has is the best option, the loop just slides from one side to the other. The position is quite important so as not to cause the boat to turn to quickly if used alone.

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i'd personally clear all the rubbish off the roof

Ok, so I get rid of the wood & the hose pipe. What about my solar panels? Maybe I could mount them 3 infront of the centre line & 1 behind leaving exactly the same problem. Or perhaps 2 in front & 2 behind, still leaving exactly the same problem. Or perhaps I could store the solar panels inside, thereby leaving me with a clear roof, & not have to worry about eyebolts.

Not really very helpful.

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Having witnessed an incident which could have caused serious injury (or worse), I will have nothing to do with ropes going through anything bolted onto the handrail. The incident to which I refer was below Marston Doles locks on the Sothern Oxford, which is notorious for a fierce flow when the paddles are opened. The centre line on boat in front of me was tied to a bollard passing through a fairlead bolted to the boat's hand rail. The force of the lock outflow moved th boat back violently and the fairlead tore out of hand rail flying though the air narrowly missing the head of someone standing on the towpath.

 

When the fairlead was recovered it was noticed that only one of the bolts had sheared, and the other one had torn out of the handrail, and this was not a cheap budget boat but one from a respected builder. I use the centre line on our boat all the time and have never bothered with fairleads, being quite happy having to repaint the top of the hand rail at the end of the season, but this event persuaded me never to even consider installing them, and to keep out of the way of any boat using one when tied up below a lock.

Edited by David Schweizer
  • Greenie 1
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Having witnessed an incident which could have caused serious injury (or worse), I will have nothing to do with ropes going through anything bolted onto the handrail. The incident to which I refer was below Marston Doles locks on the Sothern Oxford, which is notorious for a fierce flow when the paddles are opened. The centre line on boat in front of me was tied to a bollard passing through a fairlead bolted to the boat's hand rail. The force of the lock outflow moved th boat back violently and the fairlead tore out of hand rail flying though the air narrowly missing the head of someone standing on the towpath.

 

When the fairlead was recovered it was noticed that only one of the bolts had sheared, and the other one had torn out of the handrail, and this was not a cheap budget boat but one from a respected builder. I use the centre line on our boat all the time and have never bothered with fairleads, being quite happy having to repaint the top of the hand rail at the end of the season, but this event persuaded me never to even consider installing them, and to keep out of the way of any boat using one when tied up below a lock.

 

 

Not for the same reasons as you but I've never installed fairleads, eybolts or anything else on the centre or other lines. I just don't see the point in something that does nothing even remotely useful but gets in the way. Repainting a section of hand rail is no real chore at all - let's face it, boats on the cut get knocks and scrapes all over that need to be touched up, drilling holes in the boat to fix things to protect a very small section seems like madness to me.

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Actually I'm looking to protect £800 worth of solar panels.

You are just reinforcing Sabcat's point. They are of no use and get in the way rolleyes.gif

 

We have fairleads on our boat for precisely the same reason as you are considering. You are welcome to come over and have a look.

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The Purpose of fairleads is NOT to protect the paint work of your vessel but to be able to control the angle of the mooring lines so there are most effective. If they are fitted correctly (backing plate to spread the load) then they should not be flying out. ON Honeystreet we have a fairlead fitted either side of the D ring, fitted to the solid metal rail rather than a hand rail.

 

For preference I would keep to fairleads, as easier to 'flick out' and reposition if need be, however ever can see the advantage of an eyebolts, in fact on my 'Deep Blue Day job' we have combination of Closed Chocks (BIG Eyebolts if you like!) and also open Fairleads for mooring in different circumstances.

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I'm confused. I thought eyebolts and fairleads did two different jobs, so I don't understand how it can be a question of either/or?

 

I have eyebolts and fairleads. My centre ropes are attached to the eye bolts with a bowline and the ropes then go through the fairleads. The fairleads keep the ropes away from any mushroom vents or other things on the roof like the pole and plank rack that they might get caught on, but the fairleads also seem to provide better control when the boat is being held by the centre rope, rather than going direct to the eyebolt.

 

The eyebolts are bolted on and have spreader plates underneath. They are also fully welded on from above. The fairleads are screwed into the handrail with 10mm diameter stainless machine screws, but because the handrail only has a 3mm wall thickness I pumped some two-part construction resin into the void before screwing them in. I wouldn't want to rely on self-tappers or machine screws alone, especially if they are only screwed into thin steel (not on my 32 tonne boat anyway).

 

The black rope in the pictures is a mooring rope, not a centre rope. Before anyone says I shouldn't be mooring with a centre rope, I always moor with a loose centre rope. The red oxide eyebolt is the original one that came with the boat. I put the stainless ones in after I thought the original one came pretty close to snapping once.

 

CAM00449_zps796faa72.jpg

 

CAM00448_zps81a5aa12.jpg

Edited by blackrose
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Having witnessed an incident which could have caused serious injury (or worse), I will have nothing to do with ropes going through anything bolted onto the handrail. The incident to which I refer was below Marston Doles locks on the Sothern Oxford, which is notorious for a fierce flow when the paddles are opened. The centre line on boat in front of me was tied to a bollard passing through a fairlead bolted to the boat's hand rail. The force of the lock outflow moved th boat back violently and the fairlead tore out of hand rail flying though the air narrowly missing the head of someone standing on the towpath.

 

When the fairlead was recovered it was noticed that only one of the bolts had sheared, and the other one had torn out of the handrail, and this was not a cheap budget boat but one from a respected builder. I use the centre line on our boat all the time and have never bothered with fairleads, being quite happy having to repaint the top of the hand rail at the end of the season, but this event persuaded me never to even consider installing them, and to keep out of the way of any boat using one when tied up below a lock.

 

That incident happened precisely for the reason I stated in my post above. It really depends on how the fairleads are fitted. Integral handrails are generally only a few mm thick and little brass screws really shouldn't be taking the force of a big steel boat.

 

I will never be able to get my fairleads off unless I drill the heads off the screws, but that's ok with me.

Edited by blackrose
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Centre "eye" bolt and fairleads.

Two centre ropes (one each side) thru' the fairleads ensure simple operation - ropes brought to the steerers position - just step off and ropes are clear of VHF aerial, life-rings, solar panels etc.no 'flicking' rope from side to side - Simplicity.

 

IMG_20140428_124250_zpswdtttds8.jpg

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