My First Winterisation

[junior]

Tomorrow I have to winterise my boat for the first time as I'm going away for 7 days, I have a rough idea of what I need to do but thought it worth asking on here.

 

I have a quite simple set up on the boat. I have a water tank under my tug deck, this is about half full at the moment. I have a calorifier and 2 water pumps, a shower and a kitchen sink. That is it. Oh, and an accumulator.

 

I presume all I need to do is turn off the electric and run both the taps on the kitchen sink, and then run the shower. When the water stops coming out I leave the taps/shower open. Is it really that simple?

 

With regards to the engine, I also think I know what to do but this will be my first time of putting it into practice. So I run the engine and close the stop cock off. Then I open the little filter hatch and start pouring in anti-freeze. Once I start to see anti-freeze coming out of the side of the boat, I shut down the engine and close the filter hatch. This is going to be a pain in the arse as I'm on my own and the filter hatch and hull outlet are on opposite sides of the boat, so I'm going to have to keep pouring a bit then running across to look out the side hatch, then back to pouring a bit......and so on.......

 

I have 2 questions about this, firstly does the engine need to be hot or can I just do it from cold?

 

Secondly, my engine heats my calorifier. Usually it takes upwards of 30 mins to start getting and water to start coming out of the side of the hull. I presume this is because it fills the calorifier up with hot water first. So if I start pouring anti-freeze into the filter hatch rather than the normal canal water that goes through there, does that mean when I come back next week and turn on the hot tap I will get anti-freeze coming out of the taps as the calorifier is full of anti-freeze?

[Graham Davis]

does that mean when I come back next week and turn on the hot tap I will get anti-freeze coming out of the taps as the calorifier is full of anti-freeze?

 

No because the water from your engine doesn't actually mix with your domestic water, but passes through a seperated copper coil inside the calorifier.

[Ray T]

Tomorrow I have to winterise my boat for the first time as I'm going away for 7 days, I have a rough idea of what I need to do but thought it worth asking on here.

 

I have a quite simple set up on the boat. I have a water tank under my tug deck, this is about half full at the moment. I have a calorifier and 2 water pumps, a shower and a kitchen sink. That is it. Oh, and an accumulator.

 

I presume all I need to do is turn off the electric and run both the taps on the kitchen sink, and then run the shower. When the water stops coming out I leave the taps/shower open. Is it really that simple?

 

With regards to the engine, I also think I know what to do but this will be my first time of putting it into practice. So I run the engine and close the stop cock off. Then I open the little filter hatch and start pouring in anti-freeze. Once I start to see anti-freeze coming out of the side of the boat, I shut down the engine and close the filter hatch. This is going to be a pain in the arse as I'm on my own and the filter hatch and hull outlet are on opposite sides of the boat, so I'm going to have to keep pouring a bit then running across to look out the side hatch, then back to pouring a bit......and so on.......

 

 

 

Antifreeze is harmful to aquatic life and really should not be dumped in the canal.

 

You will also need to drain your calorifier.

 

http://www.canalworl...=1

 

http://www.canalworl...=1

 

[Stilllearning]

As it's your first time, how about leaving it in a marina/boatyard, having them winterise it, and you watch and take notes?

Each boat is slightly different and we can only advise from a distance.

Oh and I hope you stay well too .

[junior]

As it's your first time, how about leaving it in a marina/boatyard, having them winterise it, and you watch and take notes?

Each boat is slightly different and we can only advise from a distance.

Oh and I hope you stay well too .

Sadly, I can't afford to have somebody else do it, plus I'm going to have to do it so often over the coming months that the sooner I get the hang of it the better.

[PaulJ]

I would not run the engine and close the stopcock. Impellers are only made of rubber and lubricated by the water. They will get hot and disintegrate very quickly without water flowing through. I always warm up engine first and then stop. Turn off stopcock and fill filter /trap or whatever you have with antifreeze, start up engine and pour in more antifreeze while engine running. Turn off engine as soon as run out of antifreeze- can catch fluid coming out with a bucket and bit of string to hold it below the exhaust or outlet if using a dry exhaust..

[OldGoat]

Just, Just an minute -

You're going away NOW for only seven days? From Northholt?

That's Lunnon innit??

 

What does the meter- meterologic- umm weather thingy say about the NEXT week??

 

IMKO there's nothing severe proposed for the SarfEast in the next few days; hell isn't about to freeze over and even if it is, you'll be back before the canal freezes over - which takes about a week to be severe.

 

Sensible precautions - which is what I do every time I leave the boat is to turn off the pump(s) open all the taps.

If a cold snap is likely, I also drain the raw water cooling system by turning off the inlet cock, run the engine for say- 10 15 secs:

 

Some research that a "colleague" did on the Thames showed that even in the coldest snap a couple of years ago the temperature in the nether regions of his cruiser never went below 4 deg: C. That's because the water in (OK - River) never gets colder than that. It would take several weeks of continuous well below zero temperatures to freeze anything more than an inch or so of water.

 

You're away for a week.

 

Taker reasonable precautions based on others comments above - then if I'm wrong you'll have plenty of time to empty your water tanks etc, etc.

 

DO a risk analysis....

 

 

[Tam & Di]

Just, Just an minute -

You're going away NOW for only seven days? From Northholt?

That's Lunnon innit??

 

You're away for a week.

 

Taker reasonable precautions based on others comments above - then if I'm wrong you'll have plenty of time to empty your water tanks etc, etc.

 

DO a risk analysis....

 

 

I agree. I had a quick look at forecasts and its only down to 7-8 in the daytime for at least a week. It won't do anything untoward to the boat even if it drops to minus figures overnight in that time. Leave things as they are, with just minor sensible precautions mentioned here at the moment. Then talk to others and do the serious stuff if you leave the boat for longer periods with a severe freeze forecast later. You've only got to reverse everything when you get back next week, and it's just a waste of effort with the temperatures as they are at the moment.

Edited December 7, 2013 by Tam & Di

[Mac of Cygnet]

I have never drained my calorifier (under the back deck), but have opened a pressure relief valve to allow for any expansion due tofreezing. Also cracked my domestic system at its lowest point, (the pressure switch). It would take unprecedented and prolonged low temperatures to freeze a calorifier solid. Take note of what's above and what's below outside water level - anything above is more vulnerable. I've been (a bit) more circumspect as my boat is out of the water at the moment, but it's very unusual for things to get too cold before January.

 

Edited to say that I have a 'Leaving the boat' list which I go through if away for more than a couple of days. Additional things in winter, apart from what has been mentioned, include moving all bedding and upholstery away from the walls, and cupboard doors open.

Edited December 8, 2013 by Mac of Cygnet

[Jigsawged]

Water tank: Shut off the main stopcock supplying the pump. Then run the taps until the pump runs dry: when you are satisfied that the domestic system has drained down THEN turn off the 12v water pump supply. Leave the taps open in case there is residual water in there, this allows room for expansion if there is a big freeze.

 

Check antifreeze levels/strength in your engine.

Ditto in your central heating

 

Make sure that your batts are fully charged.

Check bilge and ensure that the pump is working - an automatic pump is the wisest course of action but manual is okay provided you check it regularly.

Check for drips from stern gland, adjust greaser as required

Leave your fire doors open otherwise after any length of time the seals will stick to the doors and rip off when you do open them.

Make sure any gear on the roof (poles/planks etc.) is securely tied down.

If you have a cratch cover grease the zips with Vaseline.

Leave the odd window hopper open to allow good airflow.

Check mooring lines

Turn off Battery Isolation Switches (the bilge pump should be independently supplied and correctly fused).

 

The outlook is mild so no immediate concerns. The above procedure is recommended if you are leaving the boat for any length of time over the winter months. It's not comprehensive and I'm sure that others will offer more tips but if you do the above, you should be okay and it won't take long to restore the systems when you'd do return to the boat.

 

If we get warnings for a really big freeze, it may be worthwhile removing the pump from the system (water pump) or insulating it in some way. A tip I picked up on here recently was to remove the shower head and blow down the hose to clear it. Being higher up, it could be more vulnerable to frost and you don't want to cause a problem in your shower mixer.

 

Hope that helps.

[richardf]

I have been meaning to ask this for a while. On a leisure boat left unattended and unseated over the winter, do most people fully empty their main water tanks? I always do, but it's a bit of a pain and it drops my counter just into the water and the paint always suffers as a result.

[Jigsawged]

It has been asked before and the answer is no for a Narrowboat because most of the water in the tank is below the waterline and as it is usually only the top few inches of the waterway that freezes, the water in your tank should be okay. Just make sure that it isn't full to the brim, if the top surface does freeze, you need room for expansion.

 

For GRP, it will depend where your tank is located but as they are usually much smaller tanks than a Nb, it's probably no hassle to empty them.

[Naughty Cal]

I have been meaning to ask this for a while. On a leisure boat left unattended and unseated over the winter, do most people fully empty their main water tanks? I always do, but it's a bit of a pain and it drops my counter just into the water and the paint always suffers as a result.

Would you want to drink water that has been left in the tank all winter?

 

We don't drain our tank but we use the boat every week and leave the boat heated.

[Steve Corbett]

Martin, all I used to do was drain all the water from the engine. Shut off the gate valve near the strainer. There is a brass drain tap at the base of the engine block on the same side as the injectors. Open that and all the water will drain from the engine. Also loosen the screws holding the cover on the water pump and let the water run out of the pump body. I don't know about the domestic water heating bit of it. I hope you have got over your health scare and that both you and the boat's engine are running smoothly again.

 

Steve

[junior]

Martin, all I used to do was drain all the water from the engine. Shut off the gate valve near the strainer. There is a brass drain tap at the base of the engine block on the same side as the injectors. Open that and all the water will drain from the engine. Also loosen the screws holding the cover on the water pump and let the water run out of the pump body. I don't know about the domestic water heating bit of it. I hope you have got over your health scare and that both you and the boat's engine are running smoothly again.

 

Steve

I'd wondered what that brass tap was for. If I unscrew it and drain the water from the engine, where will the water go to? Outside of the boat, or do I need to catch it under the engine?

 

Yep fit as a fiddle Steve and with a new fuel pump we are cooking on gas!

 

Thanks for all the info folks, having looked at the weather forecast for the next week, I've decided to leave it all alone. The advice has been useful though as I'll need to do this regularly over the coming months.

[matty40s]

be aware though, the big freeze of December 2010 was only picked up a few days before it hit, was initially supposed to be a short cold snap, and caught a lot of boaters out.......

but yes, no chance of freezing this week, just more grey mush and mild temps to put up with.

[Guest]

I have been meaning to ask this for a while. On a leisure boat left unattended and unseated over the winter, do most people fully empty their main water tanks? I always do, but it's a bit of a pain and it drops my counter just into the water and the paint always suffers as a result.

 

From a freezing point of view it is usually regarded as unnecessary, but don't leave it brim full.

 

If you leave your boat for more than a few weeks you could fully drain and re-fill at the start of your season thus keeping the boat trimmed as to how you wish.

 

Plus you can Milton the supply occasionally.

[Steve Corbett]

If you do drain the engine you can catch the water or just let it run into the bilge, it's only canal water. The bilge pump will get it out for you.

 

Steve

[Guest]

If you do drain the engine you can catch the water or just let it run into the bilge, it's only canal water. The bilge pump will get it out for you.

 

Steve

 

Not if it drops into the oil drip tray it wouldn't, at least not on our boat.

[Steve Corbett]

On the Albion, the water is more likely to run to the bilge than under the engine but the point is well made. On balance it's probably a good idea to catch the water draining from the engine then there is no problem.

 

Steve

[NBDensie]

....

Leave your fire doors open otherwise after any length of time the seals will stick to the doors and rip off when you do open them.

.....

You cant win with fires doors. I left them open last winter and the fire rope seals expanded making it impossible to close the doors sufficiently to flip the latch. After the first few fires with the doors leaking smoke despite being pushed close with a lump of wood the rope eventually squashed enough to close them So I am trying leaving the doors closed this time. I visit the boat from time to time so it sounds like it would be sensible to check the doors arent sticking.

[Mac of Cygnet]

If you do drain the engine you can catch the water or just let it run into the bilge, it's only canal water. The bilge pump will get it out for you.

 

Steve

 

I presume we're talking about engines with a wet exhaust and heat exchanger here (like mine), not the majority with a skin tank. Just so someone doesn't drain their engine unnecessarily and empty a whole load of antifreeze into the cut!

[junior]

 

I presume we're talking about engines with a wet exhaust and heat exchanger here (like mine), not the majority with a skin tank. Just so someone doesn't drain their engine unnecessarily and empty a whole load of antifreeze into the cut!

I don't think I have a wet exhaust or a skin tank. The exhaust just comes straight out of the engine, through a silencer and out the boat.

[Naughty Cal]

I don't think I have a wet exhaust or a skin tank. The exhaust just comes straight out of the engine, through a silencer and out the boat.

If your engine is in fact direct raw water cooled then yes you do need to be more careful with your winterising than most.

 

Ours is indirect raw water cooked so the worst we would get is a cracked cooler. Mind you this still wouldn't be cheap to fix!

[Mac of Cygnet]

I don't think I have a wet exhaust or a skin tank. The exhaust just comes straight out of the engine, through a silencer and out the boat.

 

So how is your engine cooled?