Tesla Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I am thinking of buying new mooring warps, but unsure what diameter is best? What would you recommend? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 What size/type of boat do you have? I use 14mm dia. x 10m long on a 57ft narrowboat for mooring purposes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 70ft nb. Btw, enjoyed your book catweasel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I suspect 14mm will be OK, but others might have more advice for you. Glad you liked the book Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keeping Up Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Personally I prefer 16mm because it's easier to grip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maffi Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 18 mm floater anything else is thick string Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted June 25, 2013 Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 I am thinking of buying new mooring warps, but unsure what diameter is best? What would you recommend? Thanks! 70ft nb. Btw, enjoyed your book catweasel! I think the answer is whatever you feel comfortable with and whatever you can afford. BW (sorry CART) seem happy to use baling twine, but I am sure you might be happier with something between 12mm and 25mm Only you know what feels best for yourself. What mooring warps have you been using up till now? ... and are you satisfied/dissatisfied with them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 14mm should be ok for the mooring lines, bit thicker for the centre line (I tend to use the centre for handling so it gets more hands on use). Mooring lines only used when actually tying up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Mooring lines are personal preference and it isnt just the diameter or length you need to look at but also what sort of rope and how it is constructed. We personally will only use braid on braid rope as we find it much easier to work with than stranded rope. We use 12mm lines at 12m for the bow lines and 10m for the stern lines. Oh and we prefer navy coloured lines as they dont show the dirt up as much as lighter coloured lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_fincher Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 (edited) We happen to only have 14 mm to tie up an ex working boat. It is quite adequate, but I wouldn't use less. Agree with Keeping Up that 16mm is good, easy to handle. IMO 18mm and upwards is too thick on most narrow boats, as dollies and T studs are often not really big enough to hold the resulting knots. I was towing another historic boat on 14mm the other day. Rope is stronger than people tend to think! Edited June 26, 2013 by alan_fincher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 It is Alan. Our 12mm lines have held us safely in Wells Next The Sea in a Force 8 North Easterly which wasn't pleasant to say the least. There was much rocking, rolling, pitching and snatching but at no point were we concerned about the integrity of the lines. We were more concerned about the risk of stress cracking around the cleats on the boat but as it happens there was no cracking either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frangar Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 This link http://www.marlowropes.com/industrial-products/hardy-hemp-ind.html Gives you an idea of the breaking strain of "HardyHemp" Cheers Gareth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nine of Hearts Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 We were more concerned about the risk of stress cracking around the cleats on the boat but as it happens there was no cracking either Good point. There is no advantage in tying up with lines stronger than the weld on your T stud (or cleats in NC's case). The insistence on 10m mooring lines always puzzles me, too. I've got 10m lines for the bow and stern, but they spend their lives in a cupboard and I use 3m ones for most of my mooring to rings or goat chains so I don't have to tie the inevitable cat's cradle with the 7m excess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty Cal Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Good point. There is no advantage in tying up with lines stronger than the weld on your T stud (or cleats in NC's case). The insistence on 10m mooring lines always puzzles me, too. I've got 10m lines for the bow and stern, but they spend their lives in a cupboard and I use 3m ones for most of my mooring to rings or goat chains so I don't have to tie the inevitable cat's cradle with the 7m excess. The minimum line length you can realistically get away with on the Trent is 10m. Our 12m bow lines have been on the limit from time to time depending on what we have been roped up too both when mooring and in the big locks. We need to get some longer lines again for next years big trip and will be getting a pair of 20m 12mm lines to take with us for this trip!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackman Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Personally I don't like handling lines less than 14mm diameter, and 16 is better. This is purely about comfort, not strength. As others have said, these sizes are far stronger than necessary for most boats on canals and inland waters. The lengths required depend on where you boat, on rivers with deep, wide locks, like the Trent and Severn you do need long lines bow and stern. 10m may not be enough. Longer lines also make it easy to use springs to limit boat movement as other craft pass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 I use 16mm for the centre lines for reasons stated by others. Mooring lines aren't normally handled as often (I don't class centre lines as mooring lines.) My normal centre lines are just short enough so that they can't reach the prop. I agree that it is what you feel comfortable with, but I find anything bigger than 14mm is a PITA to use on the dollies on many NB's. (Another thing I would not have on a future boat.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dalslandia Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 We use 18mm on this 73x13 -50 ton and as long ås the Boat is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tesla Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 Thanks for all the responses, I shall check the diameter on the current warps and go from there. Actually I was prompted to think about it because I concluded at the weekend that my centre line is rubbish and had just received an email from Mailspeed Marine with this offer - http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/rope/waveline/pre-spliced-dockline.bhtml?utm_campaign=OH+POW+22nd+June+BAOB&utm_source=emailCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content= Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john6767 Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 I good place to get ropes is from Tradline, either at Braunson, or via their ebay shop http://stores.ebay.co.uk/TRADLINE-ROPE-AND-FENDERS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 I've got 10m lines for the bow and stern, but they spend their lives in a cupboard You clearly never cruise on the Thames then, where bow and stern must be secured in every lock (and engine turned off). 10m lines are essential. MtB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 You clearly never cruise on the Thames then, where bow and stern must be secured in every lock (and engine turned off). 10m lines are essential. MtB The Thames? Getting The Cat off the Birmingham level is an achievement Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alanji Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 I bought 18mm for my (new to me) boat - artificial hemp, which floats. Lovely to handle but awkward to use for tying up. Next time I would go for 16mm, certainly for bow and stern and maybe stick to 18mm for centre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aunty_Rinum Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 It depends on where you are mooring. For anywhere tidal or with strong current the rule of thumb for mooring warps has always been one and a half times the boat length. This allows you enough rope for any eventuality: rafting, springs, and so forth. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadeToScarlet Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 It depends on where you are mooring. For anywhere tidal or with strong current the rule of thumb for mooring warps has always been one and a half times the boat length. This allows you enough rope for any eventuality: rafting, springs, and so forth. So i need lines 108 feet long? Impractical for everyday use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aunty_Rinum Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 So i need lines 108 feet long? Impractical for everyday use. If you navigate tidal waters that would be correct. I'm assuming that you don't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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