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Mooring warp diameter


Tesla

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I am thinking of buying new mooring warps, but unsure what diameter is best? What would you recommend?

 

Thanks!

 

 

70ft nb. Btw, enjoyed your book catweasel!

 

I think the answer is whatever you feel comfortable with and whatever you can afford.

 

BW (sorry CART) seem happy to use baling twine, but I am sure you might be happier with something between 12mm and 25mm

 

Only you know what feels best for yourself. What mooring warps have you been using up till now? ... and are you satisfied/dissatisfied with them?

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14mm should be ok for the mooring lines, bit thicker for the centre line (I tend to use the centre for handling so it gets more hands on use). Mooring lines only used when actually tying up.

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Mooring lines are personal preference and it isnt just the diameter or length you need to look at but also what sort of rope and how it is constructed.

 

We personally will only use braid on braid rope as we find it much easier to work with than stranded rope.

 

We use 12mm lines at 12m for the bow lines and 10m for the stern lines.

 

Oh and we prefer navy coloured lines as they dont show the dirt up as much as lighter coloured lines.

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We happen to only have 14 mm to tie up an ex working boat. It is quite adequate, but I wouldn't use less.

 

Agree with Keeping Up that 16mm is good, easy to handle.

 

IMO 18mm and upwards is too thick on most narrow boats, as dollies and T studs are often not really big enough to hold the resulting knots.

 

I was towing another historic boat on 14mm the other day. Rope is stronger than people tend to think!

Edited by alan_fincher
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It is Alan.

 

Our 12mm lines have held us safely in Wells Next The Sea in a Force 8 North Easterly which wasn't pleasant to say the least. There was much rocking, rolling, pitching and snatching but at no point were we concerned about the integrity of the lines.

 

We were more concerned about the risk of stress cracking around the cleats on the boat but as it happens there was no cracking eitherblink.png

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We were more concerned about the risk of stress cracking around the cleats on the boat but as it happens there was no cracking eitherblink.png

 

Good point. There is no advantage in tying up with lines stronger than the weld on your T stud (or cleats in NC's case). The insistence on 10m mooring lines always puzzles me, too. I've got 10m lines for the bow and stern, but they spend their lives in a cupboard and I use 3m ones for most of my mooring to rings or goat chains so I don't have to tie the inevitable cat's cradle with the 7m excess.

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Good point. There is no advantage in tying up with lines stronger than the weld on your T stud (or cleats in NC's case). The insistence on 10m mooring lines always puzzles me, too. I've got 10m lines for the bow and stern, but they spend their lives in a cupboard and I use 3m ones for most of my mooring to rings or goat chains so I don't have to tie the inevitable cat's cradle with the 7m excess.

 

The minimum line length you can realistically get away with on the Trent is 10m. Our 12m bow lines have been on the limit from time to time depending on what we have been roped up too both when mooring and in the big locks.

 

We need to get some longer lines again for next years big trip and will be getting a pair of 20m 12mm lines to take with us for this trip!!

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Personally I don't like handling lines less than 14mm diameter, and 16 is better. This is purely about comfort, not strength.

As others have said, these sizes are far stronger than necessary for most boats on canals and inland waters.

The lengths required depend on where you boat, on rivers with deep, wide locks, like the Trent and Severn you do need long lines bow and stern. 10m may not be enough.

Longer lines also make it easy to use springs to limit boat movement as other craft pass.

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I use 16mm for the centre lines for reasons stated by others. Mooring lines aren't normally handled as often (I don't class centre lines as mooring lines.) My normal centre lines are just short enough so that they can't reach the prop. I agree that it is what you feel comfortable with, but I find anything bigger than 14mm is a PITA to use on the dollies on many NB's. (Another thing I would not have on a future boat.)

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Thanks for all the responses, I shall check the diameter on the current warps and go from there. Actually I was prompted to think about it because I concluded at the weekend that my centre line is rubbish and had just received an email from Mailspeed Marine with this offer - http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/rope/waveline/pre-spliced-dockline.bhtml?utm_campaign=OH+POW+22nd+June+BAOB&utm_source=emailCampaign&utm_medium=email&utm_content=

 

Bernie

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I've got 10m lines for the bow and stern, but they spend their lives in a cupboard

 

You clearly never cruise on the Thames then, where bow and stern must be secured in every lock (and engine turned off). 10m lines are essential.

 

MtB

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You clearly never cruise on the Thames then, where bow and stern must be secured in every lock (and engine turned off). 10m lines are essential.

 

MtB

 

The Thames? Getting The Cat off the Birmingham level is an achievement

 

Richard

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I bought 18mm for my (new to me) boat - artificial hemp, which floats. Lovely to handle but awkward to use for tying up. Next time I would go for 16mm, certainly for bow and stern and maybe stick to 18mm for centre.

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It depends on where you are mooring. For anywhere tidal or with strong current the rule of thumb for mooring warps has always been one and a half times the boat length. This allows you enough rope for any eventuality: rafting, springs, and so forth.

  • Greenie 1
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It depends on where you are mooring. For anywhere tidal or with strong current the rule of thumb for mooring warps has always been one and a half times the boat length. This allows you enough rope for any eventuality: rafting, springs, and so forth.

So i need lines 108 feet long? Impractical for everyday use.

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