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steven wilkinson

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I was reading about people single handedly cruising several dozen miles, and operating several locks - then I started to wonder about swing bridges :blink:

 

We have operated a dozen or so swing bridges on our recent jaunt, but all were operated from the non-towpath side - and with two of us! How do you traverse a swing bridge on your own?

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I was reading about people single handedly cruising several dozen miles, and operating several locks - then I started to wonder about swing bridges :blink:

 

We have operated a dozen or so swing bridges on our recent jaunt, but all were operated from the non-towpath side - and with two of us! How do you traverse a swing bridge on your own?

 

1 - wait for another boat

 

2 - search the forum for 'single handed swing bridge operation'

 

3 - Invest in This

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I was reading about people single handedly cruising several dozen miles, and operating several locks - then I started to wonder about swing bridges :blink:

 

We have operated a dozen or so swing bridges on our recent jaunt, but all were operated from the non-towpath side - and with two of us! How do you traverse a swing bridge on your own?

 

There's a few different techniques for this, the most obvious being finding a way to tie up your boat on the swing bridge side of the canal (easier for some bridges than others), there are people who have clever ways of doing it involving ropes and barge poles. Personally, I have always gone with moor up and wait for another boat or a friendly cyclist/pedestrian, this has worked fine every time, except the time that a jogger put her back out, I felt pretty guilty about that.

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Basically, you tie up on the non-towpath side, or tie up to the bridge itself somehow.

 

Yep, mostly involves nosing up to the bridge and clambering off the bow of the boat with rope onto the bridge, then bow-hauling the boat through.

 

You obviously haven't encountered a lift bridge yet that won't stay UP by itself if you think swing bridges are difficult single-handed! Fortunately all those on the southern Oxford have now been rebalanced by CRT so they don't slam shut again the second you release your weight from the balance beam. A blessed relief!

 

MtB

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Yep, mostly involves nosing up to the bridge and clambering off the bow of the boat with rope onto the bridge, then bow-hauling the boat through.

 

You obviously haven't encountered a lift bridge yet that won't stay UP by itself if you think swing bridges are difficult single-handed! Fortunately all those on the southern Oxford have now been rebalanced by CRT so they don't slam shut again the second you release your weight from the balance beam. A blessed relief!

 

MtB

 

Apparently the way round that one is to take a length of rope with you and tie it 'open'.

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Apparently the way round that one is to take a length of rope with you and tie it 'open'.

 

Only possible when there is a loop or staple or something in the ground to tie it to. Some had them, others didn't!

 

Academic now they've been rebalanced to rest 'open'. I never understood why they needed to rest in the 'closed' position in the first place. They hardly hard tons of traffic over them.

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For swing bridges in general there is no particular solution for single handing through them given design variations and often lack of maintenance leaving them very stiff.

 

Clearly if you can tie up on the non-towpath side before and after you have a solution, but this is very rare.

 

For hand operated ones though I adopt this method which works for most:

 

Tie up before bridge, cross and unlock if necessary.

 

Attach rope to bridge rail on towpath side of bridge and leave the looped end hanging so you can pick it up as you pass through.

 

From tow path side swing it open using its own inertia - you made need to experiment to see how much force is necessary to leave it open fully or nearly so. Keep hold of rope if necessary to avoid leaving it only partially open. Too much force and it will bounce off rubber buffers and swing partially closed again.

 

Untie boat and proceed through very slowly, picking up line as you pass and paying out with engine in neutral, hooking loop onto stern dolly.

 

Once line is taught and bridge is starting to swing closed, line will go slack - unhitch from dolly and throw line onto tow path behind you and put engine back in gear. Too much speed and the sharp tug may swing it swiftly into your stern hence slow speed initially.

 

Tie up on tow path, then close bridge fully before locking if necessary.

 

Its sounds long winded but most can be operated smoothly and fairly quickly this way.

 

Note that some have sunken chains attached to the bank and bridge so you can pull it closed again in which case you can dispense with your line. Don't assume chain is still attached though.

 

Very stiff bridges that can't possibly be opened or closed single handed, can be towed open in reverse with line to bow. Once open, with boat stationary and line slack, you can walk it back to the stern. You then have the means to tow it shut after passing through.

 

For key operated motorised bridges with traffic barriers you can use your line again but I prefer to ask a dog walker or passer by if they would like to stop the traffic. Most can't resist ;)

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I can only assume that most of the the respondents on this thread have done little or no single handing. (Incoming)

 

Lift bridges or swing bridges are simply engineering problems to be solved. If you have a standard boat hook lift bridges are easy even if heavy.

 

Swing bridges are so simple we often miss the obvious. Your stern and centre line should be placed on the roof on the bridge hinge side of the boat. Your bow line should be tied to the bridge on the towpath side. Operate the bridge. With the bridge open you can pull your boat through. First with the bow line then with the centre line. Then taking the stern line tie it to the bridge. Close the bridge. Using the stern line pull the back of the boat to the bank. Get on and off you go. There is nothing difficult about this. There are just difficult boaters.

 

If you cant achieve this simple task you are not boater material, sell your boat. Remember just because you can operate a retractable ball pen does not mean you can be a boater. More smarts are required.

 

 

EDITED to add: The lift bridge at Thrupp is now electric. Please dont try to lift the beams you will break it.

Edited by Maffi
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I can only assume that most of the the respondents on this thread have done little or no single handing. (Incoming)

 

Lift bridges or swing bridges are simply engineering problems to be solved. If you have a standard boat hook lift bridges are easy even if heavy.

 

Swing bridges are so simple we often miss the obvious. Your stern and centre line should be placed on the roof on the bridge hinge side of the boat. Your bow line should be tied to the bridge on the towpath side. Operate the bridge. With the bridge open you can pull your boat through. First with the bow line then with the centre line. Then taking the stern line tie it to the bridge. Close the bridge. Using the stern line pull the back of the boat to the bank. Get on and off you go. There is nothing difficult about this. There are just difficult boaters.

 

If you cant achieve this simple task you are not boater material, sell your boat. Remember just because you can operate a retractable ball pen does not mean you can be a boater. More smarts are required.

 

 

EDITED to add: The lift bridge at Thrupp is now electric. Please dont try to lift the beams you will break it.

 

 

That sounds like a very complicated proceedure Stephen. Despite doing several drawings using your instructions, I have failed to understand how it works. Have you forgotten the method I explained to you when you started your boating some years ago, it will work in any situation but does need some simple equipment. For those who have not read my earlier post here it is again :-

 

I have travelled the full length of the K&A numerous times single handed, and operating the many swing bridges without a crew can be a pain. However, I was given instructiions by Peter on Gospel Belle, which have served me well. This is how to do it single handed:-

 

First of all you need a light pole about 5ft long with a pointed end. (surveyors poles are ideal as they have steel sheath over the pointed end), screw a screw eye into the other end of the pole, about 2"from the top. Run a 30ft length of light rope through the screw eye and tie a knot in the end of the rope to stop it pulling through. Fit a cheap Karabina or large screw link to the other end of the line. The other equipment you need is a club hammer and possibly the boat pole.

 

The Method:-

 

Tie the boat up against the towpath and approach the swing bridge carrying all your "equipment"

 

Attatch the Karabina end of the rope to the towpath end of the bridge's left hand side hand rail (viewed fronm the towpath).

 

Take the pole and hammer it into the mound on the towpath side, opposite where the end of the bridge will rest when open.

 

Using as much force as you can muster, push the swing bridge open from the towpath side, If neccessary use the boat pole to push it further over. (The bridge does not have to be fully open as long as the boat can pass through the opened space with ease)

 

Pull the rope through the screw eye until it is reasonably tight, making sure that it does not start to close the bridge, and tie the rope off on the pole.

 

Move the boat through the bridge and tie it up on the other side. There should be sufficient clearance for the boat to pass under the rope, but have a boat hook handy just in case it has to be lifted slightly to clear chimneys etc.

 

Go back to the bridge and pull it back to the towpath bank with the light rope.

 

Untie everything, remove the pole and continue on your way.

 

I have used this method numerous times without failure, although my prefferred method is still to hope that some dog walker, or hiker will appear and offer to do it for me. I have even had a fisherman do it for me once.

Edited by David Schweizer
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You are both making a meal of a simple operation and yours, David, won't work with the stiff bridges of which the Kennet and Avon has many.

 

Here's what you do;

 

Put the bow of the boat into the curve of the bridge brickwork on the offside, if you can't get onto the bank there climb up the bridge.

 

Take your bow rope. Lay it out and you dont need to tie up. If the bridge opens towards the boat give the boat a push to get it out the way.

 

Open the bridge. Get back on the bow. Motor through.

 

Reverse back to the bridge. Get off the stern with stern rope, don't bother to tie up again just lay it out.

 

Close the bridge, pull the boat in. Job done.

 

Because the canal narrows where the bridge is there's always something to land on - I'm sure there's a name for this brickwork on the tip of my mind.

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You are both making a meal of a simple operation and yours, David, won't work with the stiff bridges of which the Kennet and Avon has many.

 

Here's what you do;

 

Put the bow of the boat into the curve of the bridge brickwork on the offside, if you can't get onto the bank there climb up the bridge.

 

Take your bow rope. Lay it out and you dont need to tie up. If the bridge opens towards the boat give the boat a push to get it out the way.

 

Open the bridge. Get back on the bow. Motor through.

 

Reverse back to the bridge. Get off the stern with stern rope, don't bother to tie up again just lay it out.

 

Close the bridge, pull the boat in. Job done.

 

Because the canal narrows where the bridge is there's always something to land on - I'm sure there's a name for this brickwork on the tip of my mind.

Yep

 

That's the simplest way. Why does it have to be any more complicated.

 

 

As Mike the Boilerman said earlier. The lift bridges on the Southern Oxford have recently been rebalanced. Most of the need only minimal effort to open and will stay open without the use of a Banbury pole. You then have to pull the shut with the chain and lock them off (BW key)

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Yep

 

That's the simplest way. Why does it have to be any more complicated.

 

 

As Mike the Boilerman said earlier. The lift bridges on the Southern Oxford have recently been rebalanced. Most of the need only minimal effort to open and will stay open without the use of a Banbury pole. You then have to pull the shut with the chain and lock them off (BW key)

Mmmm, as the vast majority of narrow boaters are 60 plus OAP's including me, possibly with rheumatism, aging aches and pains, wonky legs and all, climbing up bridges and balancing on the forepeak with a cratch in the way might not it find that easy. :mellow:

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That sounds like a very complicated proceedure Stephen. Despite doing several drawings using your instructions, I have failed to understand how it works. Have you forgotten the method I explained to you when you started your boating some years ago, it will work in any situation but does need some simple equipment. For those who have not read my earlier post here it is again :-

 

 

David

 

 

Sharper pencil clean piece of paper.

 

I don't doubt that there are probably easier ways to do this (though I am yet to find one), but you will notice my method only uses the ropes on board the boat and not an 'armful of tools'.

 

I can get through a bridge in 87 words you can do it in 317 (98 of which are spent building a too kit!) Please don't tell me your method is not complicated. It's an adventure of epic proportions.

 

Chris

 

I doubt your method is any easier than mine but I dont think as safe for a beginner. I step off my boat loosely tie the bow rope to the bridge open the bridge pull the boat through close bridge get on my boat and bugger off. Whereas you will walk the full length of your boat either down the gunnels or over the roof twice. Suggesting that newbies should climb over the side of a bridge, that may well be slippery, especially as they will likely have a F*** off big lump of steel boat to fall on is not really in the spirit of helping people.

 

I of course will continue to do it my way you will continue to do it your way and David will collect his tool box and go on another epic adventure. :D

 

 

 

Edit David you are neither my mother nor family. They are the only people who call me Stephen.

Edited by Maffi
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You are both making a meal of a simple operation and yours, David, won't work with the stiff bridges of which the Kennet and Avon has many.

 

Here's what you do;

 

Put the bow of the boat into the curve of the bridge brickwork on the offside, if you can't get onto the bank there climb up the bridge.

 

Take your bow rope. Lay it out and you dont need to tie up. If the bridge opens towards the boat give the boat a push to get it out the way.

 

Open the bridge. Get back on the bow. Motor through.

 

Reverse back to the bridge. Get off the stern with stern rope, don't bother to tie up again just lay it out.

 

Close the bridge, pull the boat in. Job done.

 

Because the canal narrows where the bridge is there's always something to land on - I'm sure there's a name for this brickwork on the tip of my mind.

Oh come on Chris, if you are fit enough to clamber on and off the front of the boat, and over the hand rail, you are fit enough to shift the bridge, and if then end of it is stuck on the shelf, you can walk across and use the bar to push it partially open, before finishing the job with your pole. I have travelled the full length of the K&A many times and the only one I ever found that resisted the pole method was the one west of Hungerford, but as the bridge is close to the lock you can use the lock holding point and walk to and from the bridge.

 

I have tried the clambering on and off method, and apart from having to remove the cratch cover first it is not an easy operation, and both our boats have a substantial high bow, it would not be as easy on some modern boats with a low bow and a small fore deck.

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I vote for Maffi's method - it involves far less clambering around and requires no special equipment, and I used it several times on the Leeds & Liverpool this year.

 

However, if we are talking about road bridges carrying traffic, and especially electrified ones, it is much better to get a passer-by to do it for you. Most people are delighted to get the chance to play with a bridge, and I have only once had anyone refuse (a young Asian lad who looked absolutely terrified to be asked to do anything out of his experience).

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David

I don't doubt that there are probably easier ways to do this (though I am yet to find one), but you will notice my method only uses the ropes on board the boat and not an 'armful of tools'.

 

I can get through a bridge in 87 words you can do it in 317 (98 of which are spent building a too kit!) Please don't tell me your method is not complicated. It's an adventure of epic proportions. >snip

 

 

 

 

 

Edit David you are neither my mother nor family. They are the only people who call me Stephen.

 

Well after I explained Peter's method to you, you actually sent me a PM sying that you had used it and how well it worked. With the alternative method you have described, I am at a loss as to where you pull the boat from, perhaps you need to add a few more words to make your method understandable.

 

Edit:- Maffi, I accept your point, but when we met at the Bridge Inn (Napton) Banter you actually introduced yourself as Stephen, and had to qualify it with the name Maffi for me to know who you were. That is how I know your name, but if you do not want people to use it, may I sugest you don't tell them your real name. It is really that simple

Edited by David Schweizer
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If the bridge carries road traffic, don't forget to count up your score. We generally count 1 point for a car or small van, 2 points for a lorry, and 5 points for a bus or coach with passengers.

 

Last time we were on the K&A we stopped a Police car with its sirens blaring, and spent a considerable while debating whether or not this carried any bonus points.

 

And last year at Wrenbury on the Llangollen we stopped a whole cycling race. How many points should that count for (BTW the cyclists thanked us for imposing a forced rest)

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I vote for Maffi's method - it involves far less clambering around and requires no special equipment, and I used it several times on the Leeds & Liverpool this year.

 

However, if we are talking about road bridges carrying traffic, and especially electrified ones, it is much better to get a passer-by to do it for you. Most people are delighted to get the chance to play with a bridge, and I have only once had anyone refuse (a young Asian lad who looked absolutely terrified to be asked to do anything out of his experience).

I am still at a loss as to how it works if the setting down point is located on the towpath side, and there is no open space either side of the swinging end of the bridge, that was certainly the situation on the K&A when I last cruised on it. Whilst I understand that some bridges have since had setting down platforms introduced on the swinging side of the bridge, certainly not all the bridges have them.

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the lift bridge at lower heyford was always a right royal pain in the arris, blasted thing would not stay up no matter how you tried!! the one on the corner at thrupp would stay up with 3 bags of coal on the balance weight! B)

 

One word for you lot - Banbury Poles - well OK thats two, but basically the old style lift bridges could be lifted from the towpath side, put the stick under to hold it up (I used my cabin shaft), and then as you go through carefully remove the pole once the back of the boat is clear - done right you don't have to stop to put it down. The bridges (in theory) should be balanced such that they should drop gently down... however since intelligence is severely lacking these days I'd not expect it's possible to do this any more.

 

Mike

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the lift bridge at lower heyford was always a right royal pain in the arris, blasted thing would not stay up no matter how you tried!! the one on the corner at thrupp would stay up with 3 bags of coal on the balance weight! B)

The Ali one at Heyford is the only one that's currently a pain in the provebial. The only good thing about it is that it's got a good hook in the chain to hold it open

 

One word for you lot - Banbury Poles - well OK thats two, but basically the old style lift bridges could be lifted from the towpath side, put the stick under to hold it up (I used my cabin shaft), and then as you go through carefully remove the pole once the back of the boat is clear - done right you don't have to stop to put it down. The bridges (in theory) should be balanced such that they should drop gently down... however since intelligence is severely lacking these days I'd not expect it's possible to do this any more.

 

Mike

Trouble is now you can't use a pole on most of them and have to stop to recover your key/lock the bridge down.

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Well after I explained Peter's method to you, you actually sent me a PM sying that you had used it and how well it worked. With the alternative method you have described, I am at a loss as to where you pull the boat from, perhaps you need to add a few more words to make your method understandable.

 

 

 

Sorry David I do not remember ever using any method other than as I described to pass a swing bridge.

 

Might I suggest that if you dont under my method you are not trying.

 

 

It is simple just pull your boat through the bridge, from the bridge, using all three ropes. No poles, hooks, Karibinas or Magic Carpets.

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