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new boater needs advice

Lady-jess

By Lady-jess
in New to Boating?

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hi sorry to keep asking stuff. What do you all reccomend on how to paint boat? sand right down to metal?? Also we are re naming our boat what do they say to do?

 

Thanks

 

We often joke on here about rituals to follow if you want to avoid bad luck when changing a boats name, but unless you are really superstitious you just paint out the old one and paint in a new one - jobs done.

 

You should also let C&RT know the new name.

 

Ed. to add - depends on how 'picky' you are but completely obliterating the old name can be a challenge unless you flatten it right back - you often see boats where the outline of the old lettering is still visible on the newly painted surface.

Edited by The Dog House
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Zayna Proficient

Zayna

Posted
Posted

Re: change of ownership, I need to do this and went on the CaRT website to find how to do it, followed a link and ended up with 'Page Not Found'.

 

I'll try again but if anyone is able to let me know who to ring / get in touch with, without it causing too much effort, I'd appreciate it, thanks, and apologies for the hijack.

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john6767 Veteran II

john6767

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Not sure that the use of Stella is authentic though, Newkie Brown I thought ....

 

 

As to the real thing you need to do, you just need to inform CRT, we did it on the change of ownership form as instructed by BW, but putting in "new name XXX, old name YYY" in the boat name part. Just ring up you can probably do it over the phone if its not re-licensing time, you don't get a new licence.

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Higgs Influencer

Higgs

Posted
Posted (edited)

hi sorry to keep asking stuff. What do you all reccomend on how to paint boat? sand right down to metal??

Thanks

 

 

For most people, flatting the paintwork is enough. There's a degree of risk, if you don't know the history of the paintwork. Going down to the steel is not what most would want to do, but it provides a degree of certainty.

 

Some DIY overpainting, from experience, suffers from lack of prepwork and keying up. It's the tedious side of boat painting, but important. When rubbing down paintwork, you'll generally go through a few layers, on the way to prepping and flatting. Each layer should feather, with a smooth transition between layers. If sections will not feather, the likely cause is bad prepwork and the layer is suspect - you should go below this layer.

 

In rubbing down, you need a good orbital sander, start with 80 grit, go on to 240, and 320 to 400 to finish.

 

Keep the brush strokes in the same direction throughout whole job, on each area. Apply with foam gloss rollers (4"and 7") and lay off with something like a 3" brush.

 

Get paint on, lay off, leave it - don't go back and fiddle. Keep surfaces clean. A vacuum is useful, attached to the sander and also with a soft brush to clean off dust from surfaces, prior to tak rag, and helps get dust out of crevices.

 

Don't put paint from your roller tray back into the tin that contains unused fresh paint. Any left-over paint should be tipped into a jar, or other, and can be used later. But, I think it's best to do your final coat with fresh paint. Contaminants, dust etc, are being picked up while you're painting. No point putting used paint back in with fresh.

 

Be sure to get rid of and clean the surfaces of silicone; around window frames, usually. It will be picked up on your painting equipment and get mixed in with your paint, spoiling the job. You will have to throw the paint away.

Edited by Higgs
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Lady-jess Gongoozler

Lady-jess

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For most people, flatting the paintwork is enough. There's a degree of risk, if you don't know the history of the paintwork. Going down to the steel is not what most would want to do, but it provides a degree of certainty.

 

Some DIY overpainting, from experience, suffers from lack of prepwork and keying up. It's the tedious side of boat painting, but important. When rubbing down paintwork, you'll generally go through a few layers, on the way to prepping and flatting. Each layer should feather, with a smooth transition between layers. If sections will not feather, the likely cause is bad prepwork and the layer is suspect - you should go below this layer.

 

In rubbing down, you need a good orbital sander, start with 80 grit, go on to 240, and 320 to 400 to finish.

 

Keep the brush strokes in the same direction throughout whole job, on each area. Apply with foam gloss rollers (4"and 7") and lay off with something like a 3" brush.

 

Get paint on, lay off, leave it - don't go back and fiddle. Keep surfaces clean. A vacuum is useful, attached to the sander and also with a soft brush to clean off dust from surfaces, prior to tak rag, and helps get dust out of crevices.

 

Don't put paint from your roller tray back into the tin that contains unused fresh paint. Any left-over paint should be tipped into a jar, or other, and can be used later. But, I think it's best to do your final coat with fresh paint. Contaminants, dust etc, are being picked up while you're painting. No point putting used paint back in with fresh.

 

Be sure to get rid of and clean the surfaces of silicone; around window frames, usually. It will be picked up on your painting equipment and get mixed in with your paint, spoiling the job. You will have to throw the paint away.

 

 

 

Thank you for this!! :)

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MtB Veteran II

MtBDonate to Canal World

Posted
Posted

If you rename a boat whilst it is on the water it will sink. Of this there is absolutely no doubt or question.

 

Boats must only be renamed when on dry land.

 

I agree. I renamed my boat once and did all the mumbo jumbo stuff. Did it with the boat on the bank, put a sign up in the boat acknowledging the old boat name etc, etc...

 

It DIDN'T SINK afterwards, ever. Well worth the effort.

 

Mike

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luctor et emergo Veteran II

luctor et emergo

Posted
Posted

Renaming a boat is common place, in both the leisure, and commercial boating industry. Whilst there are a whole host of superstitious rituals, which you may or may not feel inclined to adhere to, there is one which makes common sense. You must remove the old name completely, before adding the new name. Otherwise, your boat will have a dual personality. Simply painting the new name over the old one, is not good enough.

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Gibbo Veteran II

Gibbo

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Posted

I agree. I renamed my boat once and did all the mumbo jumbo stuff. Did it with the boat on the bank, put a sign up in the boat acknowledging the old boat name etc, etc...

 

It DIDN'T SINK afterwards, ever. Well worth the effort.

 

There, absolute proof!

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cheshire~rose Veteran II

cheshire~roseDonate to Canal World

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Dave renamed his boat some years ago and did not do any of the mumbo jumbo stuff. The old name was rather pretentious! The new name he gave to the boat was a combination of his and his wife's star signs. A few years later they got divorced. What a stroke of good luck that was for both him and me!

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Leo No2 Rising Star

Leo No2

Posted
Posted

Nice Job

finish looks good , do you mind saying how much it cost.

 

I thought it was quite reasonable at the initial quote of of between £4,000 and £5,000 for 60' (it went up a bit because the owner of the mooring where it was done put his mooring price up - the painter kept his deal with me as I had paid a deposit last year). I had to add to that the cost of the sign writing (done by a forum member so I am not going to put him on the spot and say how much it was but I was happy with the deal and more than happy with the result).

 

For me I had to add the cost of getting there and back from the River Wey but I 'wrote that off' in my mind as a summer cruise - not often you can do part of a ring - go home for five weeks knowing the boat is safe and then go back and complete the ring (Wey, Thames, GU, Stratford on the way up and Stratford, GU, Oxford, Thames, Wey on the way home).

 

Here's a better 'finished' picture going up Napton last week.

 

DSCF7381.JPG

 

Hope that helps to give you a ball park figure.

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