Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Sign in to follow this  
Wrinkley

2LW Oil change

Featured Posts

That is very kind of you sir, we are currently at Mercia Marina.

We had planned a trip up to Shardlow to track down CWDF forum member Andy who has been very quiet recently.

Now (without a boat) we have changed our plans and are going to make a flying visit by road to Bristol tomorrow probably returning here same day.

If you are anywhere near a line between these two places, we will happily drop bye.

 

Joshua

 

 

We're moored in Hungerford on the k&a, not in a straight line but not too far really if you need a filter.

 

Paul

 

I'll pm the details.

Edited by GSer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My SR3 uses Morris golden film at a larger rate than the cheaper option I get from Hilperton marina. it seems thinner, and runs through my engine quicker.

 

You have to top up between oil changes?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many thanks for the replies.

 

 

 

Truth is I was rushing to go somewhere and passing Midland Chandlers wanted to pick up any parts I might need but had no time to get the manual out. Thanks for the leads; I am sorry to have been so lazy

 

 

 

I did get a filter Matty, after paying £64 for the oil, £7 for a filter seemed really good value!

 

 

 

Although I have a manual, it is necessarily wide ranging and covers various models and uses, so I would still like to know from experienced nb operators what I should include in a good maintenance schedule.

 

 

 

We will be touring so the engine will get a good work out (although I now have a built in generator to do the demeaning work of recharging the batteries when not on the move) and I would like to write myself a good annual schedule.

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

 

 

Joshua

 

 

 

Holy cow batman, midland swindlers saw you coming !

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is no laughing matter young Athy, this is a very sad looking engine.

I have just drained the oil ready for a change of oil and filter (unfortunately I was given the wrong filter so now grounded until I get another) and as I took the retaining nut off the oil filter assembly the spring inside nudged it out of my hands and into the bilges under the engine.

It took me two hours pocking about in layers of oil soaked newspapers, clumps of dog hairs, bits of glass, dozens of screws, several nuts and bolts (that was extra worrying) a ball bearing and much other unidentifiable material that had congealed into a rotting, greasy, slurry.

A lot of this mess has been caused by a simple leak on a fuel bleed tap, rather than fix it, the response to this problem has been to put an oily rag under it so that the fuel drips into that before finding its way to the bilges!

 

Joshua

 

 

gallery_12464_697_66083.jpg

 

Hi,

 

Leaks from that point are a B****r, I have tried to cure mine, but in the end found the best way was to collect the fuel in a magnetic bowl. This attaches firmly to the engine and avoids spillage.

 

I have a spare filter if you want one - am at Cowroast.

 

Leo

 

PS like your rev counter - I put one of these into an auction years ago, could do with it now - confirms that old adage 'never throw anything away'.

Edited by LEO

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is very kind of you sir, we are currently at Mercia Marina.

We had planned a trip up to Shardlow to track down CWDF forum member Andy who has been very quiet recently.

Now (without a boat) we have changed our plans and are going to make a flying visit by road to Bristol tomorrow probably returning here same day.

If you are anywhere near a line between these two places, we will happily drop bye.

 

Joshua

Andy may have been quiet, but he's been very busy....Harris and Watson boat build

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi,

 

Leaks from that point are a B****r, I have tried to cure mine, but in the end found the best way was to collect the fuel in a magnetic bowl. This attaches firmly to the engine and avoids spillage.

 

I have a spare filter if you want one - am at Cowroast.

 

Leo

 

PS like your rev counter - I put one of these into an auction years ago, could do with it now - confirms that old adage 'never throw anything away'.

 

Hi Leo, Thanks for the offer of the filter, your a bit far out of our way but I appreciate the offer.

 

Will try Midland Chandlers again (now Ive got the old one out shouldn't be a problem getting the correct replacement) before we head off to Bristol and if that fails and time and traffic permit, may try getting over to Paul on the K&A.

 

As far as the tap is concerned, I have been advised that it is not necessary to retain it and it can be simply capped off with a suitable threaded plug (which I am also now looking for, I believe it is a BS 1/8 ).

 

The current tap has been bodged with Araldite so doesn't function as a tap anymore but still leaks just as profusely!

 

Joshua

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Leo, Thanks for the offer of the filter, your a bit far out of our way but I appreciate the offer.

 

Will try Midland Chandlers again (now Ive got the old one out shouldn't be a problem getting the correct replacement) before we head off to Bristol and if that fails and time and traffic permit, may try getting over to Paul on the K&A.

 

As far as the tap is concerned, I have been advised that it is not necessary to retain it and it can be simply capped off with a suitable threaded plug (which I am also now looking for, I believe it is a BS 1/8 ).

 

The current tap has been bodged with Araldite so doesn't function as a tap anymore but still leaks just as profusely!

 

Joshua

I found that it wasn't the tap with mine, it was actually leaking from the filter housing through the gasket, very slowly, and sliding down to the tip of the tap. After replacing filter, the problem persisted, and I didn't want to overtighten and hence snap the housing nut, so live with it.

Luckily though, the superior ;) 2L2 not only has a re-useable filter, it also has a little bath below the filter where the drips collect.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

PS like your rev counter - I put one of these into an auction years ago, could do with it now - confirms that old adage 'never throw anything away'.

 

 

Where does the revcounter pick up its data from? I'd like one on mine but i'd like it to look right IYKWIM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Where does the revcounter pick up its data from? I'd like one on mine but i'd like it to look right IYKWIM

 

 

Not sure, perhaps the OP can help there is a spinner off the timing chain, it may be geared to this, will look in the manual later.

 

The small brass tap is useful for draining the filter cup, I had a leak from the filter housing/body but cured it by 'flatting' off the housing with fine wet/dry paper.

 

Take care tightening the tap in the housing it's easy to strip the threads in the ally housing - this may have happened if it has been sealed with Araldite, as I said the magnetic based bowl is useful for catching drips.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure, perhaps the OP can help there is a spinner off the timing chain, it may be geared to this, will look in the manual later.

 

The small brass tap is useful for draining the filter cup, I had a leak from the filter housing/body but cured it by 'flatting' off the housing with fine wet/dry paper.

 

Take care tightening the tap in the housing it's easy to strip the threads in the ally housing - this may have happened if it has been sealed with Araldite, as I said the magnetic based bowl is useful for catching drips.

 

Good shout re the warning about stripping the thread, the araldite seems to have been reserved for shoving up the tap spout and encasing the tap head itself, nothing near the threaded mount so lets hope no damage there.

 

regarding the Rev counter mounting, best picture I could get, this is looking up from the sump.From my manual, it appears to be mounted on the oil pump drive gear housing, could it in fact be being driven by this gear?

 

It certainly appears to be.

 

 

 

gallery_12464_697_4235.jpg

 

 

 

 

Someone questioned the aesthetics; I agree and will remount it more carefully when I get time. At least it is easy to read due both to its size and position in front of the side doors.

 

 

 

A really nice touch, is a similarly sized oil pressure gauge on the back of one of the pigeon boxes about one third of the way down the boat and easily read from the steering position, can be seen in this photo.

 

 

 

 

gallery_12464_697_169794.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Joshua

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very neat! Does it strike the hours?

It's a pleasing photo too; where did you take it?

Edited by Athy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very neat! Does it strike the hours?

It's a pleasing photo too; where did you take it?

 

January past, a few days after signing the contract.

 

My first date with Oak, my partner had to get back to Copenhagen as her mother was/is ill, so I was on my own, I had an affair with Oak.

 

This photo is taken about half way between Mercia Marina and Burton Upon Trent.

 

Oaks range was quietly radiating heat that kept me toasty warm on an otherwise freezing day and was comfortably within a quick duck below the stern hatch to fetch the eccles cakes that I left warming in the range oven all day and the kettle on the range top for a steady supply of tea.

 

I grinned, without embarrassment, all day long and often, even laughed out loud, a day I will never forget.

 

When I finally returned to Mercia Marina, I filled the bath with piping hot water, courtesy yet again of the Esse range (no doubt assisted by the Gardner but we don't admit that as thats slightly degrading) and lay back with a huge glass of red wine and enjoyed the biggest sigh of contentment I image it is possible to experience.

 

 

 

Joshua

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A quick update, just before we set off down the Severn at the weekend, I had put a jug under the leak (fuel filter bowl) and discovered it was more than a little, about a litre a day!

 

I was worried about having a problem with the engine as we rode the Severn Spring tide so slapped a load of plastic padding on the already bodged tap only to find that it still leaked and proved it wasn’t in fact the tap but the main chamber seal.

 

Today I got an engineer out from T Nielson & Co (the boatyard here in the Gloucester Basin) and he not only found a gasket to fit, but had a new fuel filter in stock! Great service would recommend them. He also replaced the bodged tap with a plug and all seems OK now.

 

Real reason for posting this was to pass on what he told me about fuels, apparently, they are seeing more and more leaking seals on engines like this and it seems that the best guess is that some fuel suppliers are ‘watering down’ their diesel fuel with biofuel and this is causing the breakdown of engine seals and as far as I understand also encourages water contamination with all the associated problems.

 

 

 

 

Joshua

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good shout re the warning about stripping the thread, the araldite seems to have been reserved for shoving up the tap spout and encasing the tap head itself, nothing near the threaded mount so lets hope no damage there.

 

regarding the Rev counter mounting, best picture I could get, this is looking up from the sump.From my manual, it appears to be mounted on the oil pump drive gear housing, could it in fact be being driven by this gear?

 

It certainly appears to be.

 

 

 

gallery_12464_697_4235.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Joshua

 

It's driven from a slot in the end of the valve camshaft. The oil pump is driven through skew gears from the same camshaft.

 

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Old topic revived:

 

The general advice for a Gardner LW seems to be Morris SAE 30. What would be a good oil if this is not available?

 

I'm talking about generally available motor oils.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any good SAE30 CC or CD graded oil will be ok but do avoid the supermarket "cheap" stuff which is sometimes of questionable quality. Any decent motor factor will have an alternative in stock. Do not use modern detergent multigrades.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

And a CC or CD multigrade? If I can't find a single weight oil?

 

Another question; this engine had an oil change 18 months ago and has only done around 20 hours since. Does it need doing on a timely basis or purely on hours?

 

I am asking before going out and buying 4 gallons of oil (which might not even be the ideal oil for the engine) - 4 gallons!!!

 

I should say I'm not 100% sure what is in there, I can't find any clues except that the previous owner loved it to bits and wouldn't have put crap in it.


Just out of curiosity; what would a modern detergent oil do to a vintage engine?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My Gardner was restored by Danny Williamson who recommended the following:

 

"SAE 30 grade such as Silkolene Chatsworth or similar, or a mild multigrade such as Castrol CR1. Modern multigrades are unsuitable."

 

I use Morris SAE 30.

 

Tony

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What would be a good oil if this is not available?

 

I'm talking about generally available motor oils.

 

 

I use Morris SAE 30.

I think you missed my original post this morning.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Morris oil is generally available!

 

You might be hard to find something similar but why not phone Morris and ask them where their local stockist is...quite a few agricultural merchants and independent garages use Morris stuff....they do mail order too.....however the stockists are often cheaper....Midland Swindlers also stock Golden Film 30

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gosh this forum is frustrating sometimes.

Pretend you're in Africa, heading up stream (picture the african queen). You take the dipstick out and the black gloop that confronts you smells like a scottish engineer's armpit. You ring Morris and a reassuring voice says they can fly some out to you in three weeks time by which time the tribe whose chief's daughter you've run off with will have caught up.

 

You are in the Nigerian equivalent of boy-racers-r-us.

 

Which oil would you choose?

 

 

 

If I could get Morris oil I wouldn't be asking.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As already suggested, a 'mild' multigrade. Look for API-CC or -CD on the spec and probably not below 20W but the latter is an uninformed guess.

There are two potential issues with the high detergency. One is bore glazing, as chemical additives in the oil build up on the cylinder walls. The other is that they carry dirt particles in suspension until they are filtered out. Many engines filter all the oil before it is fed to any part of the engine, and excess, bypassed, oil is returned directly to the sump unused. The Gardners do use the bypassed oil for secondary lubrication, for timing gear and fuel pump/governor so I suppose there is a theoretical risk of increased wear in these components.

 

I do remember that Gardners used to send out an addendum sheet with their manuals warning of the dangers of using 'turbo' oils (which is what these high spec oils are) in their engines.

 

I'm not convinced in the situation you describe (the original one, not the Scottish engineer's armpit) that an oil change is really necessary just yet.

 

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Go to Partco or a decent car factors and ask for their own brand API CC or CD oil in SAE 30. Carlube is OK. Persist if you get a numpty

 

After 20 hours it doesn't need changing but after 18 months it does- the anti-acid stuff is used up and also breaks down over time.

 

N

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Straight from the horse's mouth:

I spoke to the technical dept at Morris Oils about this when I changed from a 3LW with a gauze filter to a later 3LW with a paper filter.

In the former I used the straight 30 Supreme which is non detergent.

For the later engine with a paper filter element they recommended their detergent oil, Golden film 10-40 which is API CC spec.

 

When a paper filter is used a detergent oil is best as the detergent cleans the deposits away better and they are subsequently caught in the (finer) filter element.

Grades higher than CC should not be used as the additives which raise the spec are not utilised in a lighlty loaded engine and are deposited on the bores.

 

I would be happy to use other reputable makes of CC oil.

 

 

PS If you are using non detergent oil in an engine with a paper filter (ie Supreme 30) I suggest you talk to the tech dept. at Morris's.

Edited by andywatson

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.