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Wrinkley

2LW Oil change

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How often do you change your oil. From memory the manual says not longer than 3,000 miles.

 

Nearly bored, sitting at Bardney Lock

 

Graham

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How often do you change your oil. From memory the manual says not longer than 3,000 miles.

 

Nearly bored, sitting at Bardney Lock

 

Graham

I would say its definitely no more than 3000 miles, that would probably be a year traveling every day of the week

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The 3,000 miles in the manual was road miles as it covers twins, 3, 4,and 5 cylinder variants. Just need to know how many hours other folks change their oil. Hit 10.4 miles an hour coming down the Trent the other day so may be not a full year :rolleyes:

 

Graham

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If one believes that prevention is better than cure, and that an oil/filter change is a comparatively cheap way of looking after a valuable component of one's boat, then surely a more frequent oil change than is specified would be good?

 

I change my oil about 15% - 20% of time before the manual suggests

 

 

(But I've a Beta, not a 2LW)

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How often do you change your oil. From memory the manual says not longer than 3,000 miles.

 

Nearly bored, sitting at Bardney Lock

 

Graham

 

I change my oil and filter (3LW) every 200 hours or annually, whichever occurs sooner. (Morris 30)

 

Tony

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Thank you for the replies. We have logged 87 hours since giving up our Market Harborough mooring on 1st April. So it looks like we will need to change the oil at 200 hours which will be every couple of months. May be sooner if the sun comes our. Bit ironic really as we left 'Harborough when we did to miss the closures caused by water shortages. Still we might be able to return for the winter.

 

3,000 miles divided by 200 hours equals 15mph, water travel may be half as stressful for an engine so equivalent to 30 mph. Sounds about right for an old style wagon motor. Told you I was nearly bored.

 

Graham

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For everyones reference the correct changing period for a marine use Gardner is 400hrs or Annually whichever comes first. This is taken from Gardners own Abridged instruction for marine diesels. The oil should be changed annually even if you dont do the hours as contaminents like water etc when left unused for long periods can do alot of damage. These are the requirements we use for the warranty on our Gardner's. PS as richardhula mentioned use Morris Golden Film SAE30

 

If you fancy reading the fully instructions they are available (Free but will need to register, again also free) at http://www.marinepow...perators-manual

 

Oh the maintenance schedule is on page 31 of the above link manual.

 

Martyn

 

 

 

Thank you for the replies. We have logged 87 hours since giving up our Market Harborough mooring on 1st April. So it looks like we will need to change the oil at 200 hours which will be every couple of months. May be sooner if the sun comes our. Bit ironic really as we left 'Harborough when we did to miss the closures caused by water shortages. Still we might be able to return for the winter.

 

3,000 miles divided by 200 hours equals 15mph, water travel may be half as stressful for an engine so equivalent to 30 mph. Sounds about right for an old style wagon motor. Told you I was nearly bored.

 

Graham

Edited by martyn 1
  • Greenie 1

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Well that has cleared that up, thank you Martyn. Must be a rush on your site as I have been unable to register and pass the test! I'll try again later.

 

Again, thank you

 

Graham

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Well that has cleared that up, thank you Martyn. Must be a rush on your site as I have been unable to register and pass the test! I'll try again later.

 

Again, thank you

 

Graham

 

No Problem, let me know if your still having problems viewing my site, the funny text thing is a unfortunate consequence of those wonderful people that think hacking sites and spam are fun. but the text thing appears to be proving a problem for people we do want to use the site.

 

 

 

Martyn

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I have always serviced my 2L2 at 300 hours give and take a few. I have always used Morris GoldenFilm SAE30.

At least I get something right!!

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My SR3 uses Morris golden film at a larger rate than the cheaper option I get from Hilperton marina. it seems thinner, and runs through my engine quicker.

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Twice a year for me, straight 30 goldenfilm for me as well, i was warned that it would be better running a 'simple' 20/50 especially when running in the new bores, but i had 6 cans of the straight 30, so i stuck with that. It does smoke a little on tickover, perhaps they were right?

 

Paul

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My SR3 doesn't stop smoking until it warms up, which means opening her up a fair bit.. tick over always smokes. River running gets the best, performance, no smoke, max enjoyment..

 

And less oil use too

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Judging by the poor standard of cleanliness and unnecessary minor leaks on my 2LW, I don't think the previous owner gave it much love and attention, nor judging by the dozens of unattended maintenance jobs about the boat generally, particularly practical.

 

It's a recent purchase and I am about to start touring.

 

I want to get the basic maintenance sorted straight away, starting with an oil change.

 

I note the recommended oil on this thread but what about filters, are there any that need changing/cleaning?

 

I maybe being thick, but can't see an obvious external oil filter.

 

 

 

What else can I do as far as general maintenance is concerned?

 

 

 

Ta,

 

Joshua

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No Problem, let me know if your still having problems viewing my site, the funny text thing is a unfortunate consequence of those wonderful people that think hacking sites and spam are fun. but the text thing appears to be proving a problem for people we do want to use the site.

 

 

 

Martyn

 

Can I ask why you won't allow a download of this operator's handbook?

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Judging by the poor standard of cleanliness and unnecessary minor leaks on my 2LW, I don't think the previous owner gave it much love and attention, nor judging by the dozens of unattended maintenance jobs about the boat generally, particularly practical.

 

It's a recent purchase and I am about to start touring.

 

I want to get the basic maintenance sorted straight away, starting with an oil change.

 

I note the recommended oil on this thread but what about filters, are there any that need changing/cleaning?

 

I maybe being thick, but can't see an obvious external oil filter.

 

 

 

What else can I do as far as general maintenance is concerned?

 

 

 

Ta,

 

Joshua

 

 

At the gearbox end of the motor, the opposite side to the exhaust manifold there should be a cylindrical container with a rounded top held in place by a dome nut, release the nut, lift off the lid and the filter is below. Fuel filter is beside the thermostat housing, and the crankcase breater filter is normally part of the oil filler cap located at the front of the engine behind the timing case. Gardner engines do vary though depending on its original installation.

 

HTH

 

Paul

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Many thanks for the replies.

 

 

 

Truth is I was rushing to go somewhere and passing Midland Chandlers wanted to pick up any parts I might need but had no time to get the manual out. Thanks for the leads; I am sorry to have been so lazy

 

 

 

I did get a filter Matty, after paying £64 for the oil, £7 for a filter seemed really good value!

 

 

 

Although I have a manual, it is necessarily wide ranging and covers various models and uses, so I would still like to know from experienced nb operators what I should include in a good maintenance schedule.

 

 

 

We will be touring so the engine will get a good work out (although I now have a built in generator to do the demeaning work of recharging the batteries when not on the move) and I would like to write myself a good annual schedule.

 

 

 

Thanks,

 

 

 

Joshua

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Joshua, I'm appalled that your predecessor had a Gardner 2LW and left it in a poor condition. Wotta Philistine!Did he own a dirty Rolls Royce too?

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Can I ask why you won't allow a download of this operator's handbook?

 

 

Yep you certainly can Chris. Its because a few years ago we used to have an online archive with lots of manuals for lister,garder,ruston,kelvin etc etc which I spent a large amount of my own time converting from the various manuals to PDF and they were then available online for free in a format that could be downloaded. (Bearing in mind we have alot of Gardner and Lister manuals/parts lists that are the proper marine versions which tend to be rare not ex truck/generators versions that are missing half the important info for a marine unit, e.g. the topic of oil change periods that are not stated in hours in the truck manuals)

 

But certain individuals proceeded to then download them and offer for sale on Ebay ( I know they we off our site as all the files were digitally watermarked ). so they were removed again which spoilt it for all because of a few.

 

As various people on this forum will know, if they really want a copy of a manual and PM me and ask nicely I will send them a copy ;)

 

Martyn

 

You don't need to replace the oil filter, just clean thoroughly with liquid parafin.

 

Just to clear the what to do with the filter thing up. Matty40's comment is not technically correct. If its the first filter shown below (Newer Gardners) remove the element and replace. If it is an older Gardner (Lower Pic) then remove wash out and refit as per Matty40's post.

 

newfilter.JPG

 

oldfilter.JPG

  • Greenie 1

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Joshua, I'm appalled that your predecessor had a Gardner 2LW and left it in a poor condition. Wotta Philistine!Did he own a dirty Rolls Royce too?

 

This is no laughing matter young Athy, this is a very sad looking engine.

I have just drained the oil ready for a change of oil and filter (unfortunately I was given the wrong filter so now grounded until I get another) and as I took the retaining nut off the oil filter assembly the spring inside nudged it out of my hands and into the bilges under the engine.

It took me two hours pocking about in layers of oil soaked newspapers, clumps of dog hairs, bits of glass, dozens of screws, several nuts and bolts (that was extra worrying) a ball bearing and much other unidentifiable material that had congealed into a rotting, greasy, slurry.

A lot of this mess has been caused by a simple leak on a fuel bleed tap, rather than fix it, the response to this problem has been to put an oily rag under it so that the fuel drips into that before finding its way to the bilges!

 

Joshua

 

 

gallery_12464_697_66083.jpg

 

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This is no laughing matter young Athy, this is a very sad looking engine.

I have just drained the oil ready for a change of oil and filter (unfortunately I was given the wrong filter so now grounded until I get another)

 

 

Where are you? I have a spare filter on board.

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Where are you? I have a spare filter on board.

 

That is very kind of you sir, we are currently at Mercia Marina.

We had planned a trip up to Shardlow to track down CWDF forum member Andy who has been very quiet recently.

Now (without a boat) we have changed our plans and are going to make a flying visit by road to Bristol tomorrow probably returning here same day.

If you are anywhere near a line between these two places, we will happily drop bye.

 

Joshua

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