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Wrinkley

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Everything posted by Wrinkley

  1. Need some help with my Mastervolt Ultra please. How can I perform a factory reset on this unit? I have the mastervolt software to adjust the settings but cannot see how to reset to the factory defaults and did not take a note before fiddling! The unit works fine until I use the 'user defined' charge setting when the voltages are different to what I set.
  2. Bit more info - water still running down the locks at 08:00. Moved along the summit and the levels are topping the side weir about 1/2 mile along. So if the paddles where closed the water would be still waisted. There must be an explanation for this action. Just can't think of one.
  3. This is Foxton this evening 20:34hrs. The flight was locked at 16:00hrs as restricted boat movement times still in operation, supposedly to assist with back pumping. If there is a need to run water down towards the Soar could they not extend boat movement times to the benifit of all?
  4. No mention of the income from fishing? Is it that insignificant?
  5. Take the original dip stick out and lay it on toilet tissue, dah-dar, you can see the oil!
  6. Speed at tick over is OK. I don't get shouted at by folks or is that I only pass boats that are tied up correctly ? I have been in two minds for some years now. The boat behaves its self really well on the canals. Goes, stops, reverses all with out a fuss. In that wonderful, quiet, controlled way that a Gardner 2LW should. Its just that on the occasional times we venture out on the tidal bits I feel I could do with a bit more power. It's like going up a hill on a cycle in top gear, you drop it down one and go up easy. The engine never produces black smoke and never has done. You can wind
  7. Just for fun I down loaded rpm app that works on audio (apparently) and it worked! Would only measure 500rpm and above so no good for tick over but the readout was very close to the other two methods I have. This confirms, to me, that my engine will not turn the current prop above 950 engine rpm. But entertaining finding out.
  8. No, not from the leak off pipes the over fill pipe from the top of the secondary fuel filter. This, apparently, is to ensure adequate fuel available to the injector pump.
  9. Oooo that's a good idea. But then I'm not on mains at the moment. Could measure the hz of my mastervolt.
  10. Thanks for the link. For a tenner it's got to be worth it. Just as an aside, how do you know the new one is accurate and your original one faulty? ?
  11. Both belts run from the engine pulley to the alternator pulley, they run in parallel. The cycle rev counter sensor is mounted on the inside of the engine pulley. The frequency counter is used on the one phase of the alternator stator winding. The engine to alternator pulley ratio is 3:1.
  12. Apologies Boater Sam for not replying earlier. I don't think that belt slip is a big issue with my set up. I have two 13.5mm belts on the alternator. The readings from both ways I have of measuring rpm do not differ significantly from each other whether the output from the alternator is 20 or 120amps. I would have thought that if belt slip was occurring the difference between the 'rev counters' as the load on the alternator increased would change. I am reasonable sure that most of the claimed 28 horses in 1953 for my engine are still at home and available.
  13. Understand what you are suggesting but if two separate systems to measure revs that I'm using are roughly in line why would a third be different?
  14. Thanks for you comments, I'll try and go through them. Exhaust is just about clear on full throttle, had a bmc 1800 before and that gave black smoke on full wack. I have no way to measure fuel usage other than the average use between tank refills is constant over the eight years from "new". On full throttle there is still fuel running back to the tank indicating, to me, plenty of fuel available to the pump. Rev counter is a cycle speedo fitted to the engine belt pulley which matches the alternator hz output. Sounds a bit rubbish but it works well. Tick over 400rmp, flat out just over 1200, the
  15. Well tried that "the fuel rack "slider bar" is moving fully to the right and is up against the fuel limiting trigger at full load. I.e with the engine at full load, try and pull the the fuel rack outwards, to your right. " so still thinking the load is too much for the power produced. More power or reduced load. As the prop needs attention got to try and have adjusted to less than the 22 x 22 it's supposed to be. Any body got a 22 x 20 1.5 laying about I could have a go with?
  16. Agreed old goat but when the tide turns on the upper Trent and you struggle to make forward progress a few more revs would ease the situation.
  17. Oh yes, no problem with that. Revs to max out of gear. Exhaust clean as a whistle.
  18. Yes, I have just inputed the info and it comes out as you say. But it's definitely over propped. Well it won't rev out. Its been like this from walshes. Runs fine, no smoke, starts first turn from cold. The injector pump was serviced and recalibrated 4 or five years ago with no change to the max revs achieved in gear. I have got to try a different prop ratio just don't know what to try.
  19. Hi, I have a 60ft Norton canes with a 2lw. The prop size is 22 x 22 and I think it is over propped. I have had the boat from new and it has never revved over 950. This is even on deep rivers. As I have once again bent the prop so its maybe time to try a different size, may be 22 x 20 if there is such an animal. Any body else gone this route. Will the change be to drastic? Any help will be great fully received.
  20. Hi all Has anyone had experience of condensation inside their fire? Stupidly I closed the fire vents when I cleaned it and stuck the cap on the top of the flue. I think I have done the same in previous years to stop any smell. Today I noticed small drops of water inside the fire and more on the back boiler. Now this is either condensation, which it looks like, or the boiler sprung a small leak. Header tank still has water in. Any thoughts?
  21. Yes, I've had a look now and can see that it is easy to adjust voltages from the easy view screen once the configuration has been enabled. On my easy view 5 this is accessed by entering a pre set Pin code. Saves connecting the laptop to it. Thanks for the help. I am sure I'll need some further assistance as time goes on. Shame they can't write a manual that I can understand.
  22. Thank you for that work through. I will attempt this later on today and report back. Is this any thing to do with 'switches'? There are six of those which seem to linked to events. The fun never ends.
  23. Thank you both for your input. It seems that I am not too far out with what I am doing. That's disappointing. I also have the Master easy view panel but only use it to see what's happening. Don't know how to use it to control the Ultra. Is there a tutorial anywhere? I think the Mastervolt equipment is good but the manual is not! Well not clear enough for me.
  24. Yes thank you I have read post on the subject (a number of times) just trying to get my head around the bulk phase. So 14.8v is OK and 70 amp max? (I have 6x245ah connected to give 12v) There is the facility to set the max time for bulk and absorption but do not know what to set it too. I have increased the absorbing voltage to 15.3v for about 2hrs to carry out an equalisation charge but this is a bit of a faff compared to the Victron. I would have expected a simple system, can but live in hope.
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