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martyn 1

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About martyn 1

  • Birthday 04/18/1981

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    Poole Dorset

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    Marine Engineer/Designer

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  1. If your has a greasers or grease nipple it is an earlier type and needs greasing, if its a later type with a carbon ceramic seal it will not have a grease point. If a later seal is retrofitted to a earlier pump housing the grease point is normally blanked off.
  2. Well end float is the easiest and most accurate to measure with the engine in one piece, . pry flywheel fully one way on the endfloat, setup and zero your clock onto a flywheel face, preferable onto the end of the crank itself. endfloat should be within 0.00275 and 0.00650" at new/overhauled. Max tolerance stated is 0.012". now lift (bearing clearance) is a bit more subjective because you cant physically measure the bearing and crank diameters. but in short if you can feel lift when you use the prybar its too much. clearance new should be 0.004 to 0.0055", max tolerance is 0.0075". Obviously the tolerances will be different but this applies to any engine as a quick tell as to the bottom end condition.
  3. You would think so, but as a JP oil pump is sized for the largest in the range when were talking about the smallest then the pump has alot more capacity than the engine needs. It can maintain half reasonable oil pressure (if you can call 15-20psi reasonable..) on a JP2 long after your in the realms that the main bearing wear is well outside Lister's tolerances and well into the realms of snappy snappy crank. But as I said earlier with a big prybar and a clock gauge you can normally very quickly tell if this is the case in situ and in one piece.
  4. Very true, but with a JP2 not having a centre main bearing, if they have worn out bearings then a snapped crank finishes them off pretty quickly and unfortunatly its more common than you might think. 95% of the time it can also be put down to knackered bearings, so had the wear been dealt with when needed it wouldn't of been an issue, regrind, bearings and good for another 50 odd years..
  5. JP2M in non running condition no more than £3k tops and idustrial around the £1.5k mark tops. Having personally seen enough "runners" even if it did run I would be wary without a autopsy on it before fitting it to a boat. I have had alot come through the workshop that start and run but are w"£ked when stripped down. And to do a rebuild on one properly they are not cheap. A few things can be checked on one that is not dismantled to give a hint of if its ok or not. amount of compression, endfloat on crank and lift on crank. the later two are normally a good indication of if it will need work.
  6. Depends on where you mean by down south but were near Blandford/Poole and can make them up for you.
  7. Same setup just not as polished, Personally I wouldn't have it polished as the one in the pic is because you end up with shares in brasso and spending all your time cleaning it rather than using it to keep it looking like it. But in the case of the pic that is what the customer wanted. As split pin has said you would need to remove the pipe and fitting that is on the left of your picture and pointing horozontally and it is in the bottom of the hole that is left behind, but as mentioned it can be very hard to see.
  8. the hole is at the bottom of the hole in the centre under the yellow arrow. The bottom of the hole is conical left from when it was drilled and at the centre point is the tiny hole (if you have one). It connects the yellow return drilling to the red filter to injector pump side drilling and essential maintains the fuel pressure at what it should be. This is only relevant if you have a lift pump, if you engine is gravity feed it doesn't need it.
  9. If it was running fine and now isn't its unlikely to be the hole i previously mentioned unless some crap has blocked it, It sounds to me like its probably not running on a cylinder properly. if one cylinder isn't bled and is airlocked the engine will run rough with no smoke as its not injecting at all. I would suggest first with the engine stopped but in the cold start position on the injection pump pulling the priming levers one by one until it goes firm and a squeak is heard from the injector, you may have to turn the engine over a bit by hand to be able to do this to all the cylinders (if the pump is already at the top moving the lever does nothing..) Alternatively if you struggle to hear the squeak or your not sure if you can or not, you can remove the rocker cover and slacken the injector pipe nut a turn or two and pull the levers as before, when you see fuel coming out around the nut re tighten it and do on the rest. when finished clean up an fuel and refit the cover. Then give it a go and hopefully all is well, if not pull the levers hard one by one with the engine running and hold it firmly down, with each one you should hear a noticeable change in engine note and if setup properly this should be balanced across all the cylinders. if one make a lot more difference than the others, or one doesnt seem to make hardly any difference at all then its not setup properly. Hope this helps and isnt too confusing.
  10. martyn 1

    JP/JK pulley

    Size of pulley on the crank will depend on the size of the pulley on the alternator or vice versa (Depending on which you already have) to get the best speed match, not to slow, but equally doesnt overspeed the alternator at higher engine speeds. So to do the job properly first you need the output curve for your alternator model which will give you the max speed and the speed it excites. We normally gear them so you are just short of max speed with the engine flat out which gives you the best possible output at tickover.
  11. No difference in height, the change from 3:1 to 2:1 is just a change in ratio of the gear. I have in the past converted a 3:1 box to 2:1 with some custom gears. Some come off easy (pull off with your hand) other are like they are welded on. The gearbox output gear/reduction input are different between 2:1 and 3:1 (Number of teeth) Good practice would be that you do not mix gears that have been used/worn. as much as they will work they will have bedded into the gear they were originally mated to and in most cases are noisy if swapped around.
  12. Hi Scott, Firstly I think a photo of each of the engines you have will allow better advice as the amount of work required to convert from industrial to marine propulsion will vary hugely depending on the spec of what you are starting with and some cases it is not even really possible to do well. Also you may save yourself a lot of pain by marinising the engine rather than trying to fully convert it to the marine spec like we do. Doing the full monty conversion is fairly easy for us as we have the patterns for the marine manifolds/silencer casting but as you mention I would go and sit in a dark room with a beer before I tell you the cost for a set of these. P.S If you need parts even in Austrailia this isnt an issue, we have recently supplied, crank, rods, pistons and liners. along with all the bits to overhaul the injectors and pump and gaskets to a chap in NSW so it can be done. Cheers, Martyn
  13. Arhh, well in that case your pretty much b!"£$%ed then ;0) By crank I mean one destined for commercial marine use when new. so could be any type but will only have been Lloyds stamped if used in commercial marine from new. As the stamping was done by hand the location varies but is normally stamped on the side of one of the crank webs, however I have seen one with it stamped on one end of a web so only visible with the crank removed.......
  14. That is a how long is a piece of string question. As a generalisation the ME means it has all the marine gubbins like water cooled exhaust, manifolds etc but does not have a marine type gearbox. however from there they vary alot depending on what the engine was originally for. we have had some with flywheels at either end unlike a marine propulsion which has it at the injector pump end, we have also have them built for gensets (fixed speed governor) and for driving pumps all of which have variations in the ancillaries fitted. You will struggle to do it accurately in that case as those places are the only places where the actual engine number is stamped. however if it is a pukka marine engine (read as has a marine crank) then if it was a sea going commercial engine when new then the cranks are stamped with the test date if lloyds inspected. and you can also date the injection pump from the full serial number so if these match in year ish then its either a coincidence of the engine would have been build around that time.
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