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martyn 1

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About martyn 1

  • Birthday 04/18/1981

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    Poole Dorset

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    Marine Engineer/Designer

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  1. Sure we have several of them. will have a look. PM to follow shortly
  2. Well from the pictures I would be putting that piston and associated head in the scrap bin. Don't forget when you get it sorted and put the heads back on to check the piston to head clearance. All of the indian made head gaskets I have seen to date are to thick and wont allow the clearance to be set correctly. It will run but wont be as clean as it can be. Hence we don't buy the Indian gaskets, we make our own to the OEM thickness. We have used heads as well hear
  3. Not technically an eBay engine yet as I thought I would offer it up on here for a week or so before it hits eBay. We now have available a fully reconditioned Samofa 2S108 genuine marine that was rebuilt for a customers new boat, however they had a change of plans and have now bought a second hand boat with a Gardner 2LW, so they have no need for this engine. Photos of the recon in progress on our site. Offers circa £6000. Finished with the below spec 30hp @ 1500rpm 12 volt start 12v 175amp Iskra alternator Custom gearbox output flange to PRM260/280 output pattern Conversion to gear driven jabsco water pump
  4. Its not that gear you need, if you use one of those the centreline of the pump wont line up with the centreline of the mount hole. What you need is the gear that is on the piston water pump assembly which has less teeth (cant remember how many off the top of my head), this is what we use when retrofitting a pump to an engine that is in one peice. Or you can do it the way we do when doing a recon but this does envolve removing the front cover of the engine and removing the injector pump drive shaft and modifying it by adding an extension shaft added into the end of the gear. Incidentally this is the way Lister drove the air start valving on an air start JP
  5. If your has a greasers or grease nipple it is an earlier type and needs greasing, if its a later type with a carbon ceramic seal it will not have a grease point. If a later seal is retrofitted to a earlier pump housing the grease point is normally blanked off.
  6. Well end float is the easiest and most accurate to measure with the engine in one piece, . pry flywheel fully one way on the endfloat, setup and zero your clock onto a flywheel face, preferable onto the end of the crank itself. endfloat should be within 0.00275 and 0.00650" at new/overhauled. Max tolerance stated is 0.012". now lift (bearing clearance) is a bit more subjective because you cant physically measure the bearing and crank diameters. but in short if you can feel lift when you use the prybar its too much. clearance new should be 0.004 to 0.0055", max tolerance is 0.0075". Obviously the tolerances will be different but this applies to any engine as a quick tell as to the bottom end condition.
  7. You would think so, but as a JP oil pump is sized for the largest in the range when were talking about the smallest then the pump has alot more capacity than the engine needs. It can maintain half reasonable oil pressure (if you can call 15-20psi reasonable..) on a JP2 long after your in the realms that the main bearing wear is well outside Lister's tolerances and well into the realms of snappy snappy crank. But as I said earlier with a big prybar and a clock gauge you can normally very quickly tell if this is the case in situ and in one piece.
  8. Very true, but with a JP2 not having a centre main bearing, if they have worn out bearings then a snapped crank finishes them off pretty quickly and unfortunatly its more common than you might think. 95% of the time it can also be put down to knackered bearings, so had the wear been dealt with when needed it wouldn't of been an issue, regrind, bearings and good for another 50 odd years..
  9. JP2M in non running condition no more than £3k tops and idustrial around the £1.5k mark tops. Having personally seen enough "runners" even if it did run I would be wary without a autopsy on it before fitting it to a boat. I have had alot come through the workshop that start and run but are w"£ked when stripped down. And to do a rebuild on one properly they are not cheap. A few things can be checked on one that is not dismantled to give a hint of if its ok or not. amount of compression, endfloat on crank and lift on crank. the later two are normally a good indication of if it will need work.
  10. Depends on where you mean by down south but were near Blandford/Poole and can make them up for you.
  11. Same setup just not as polished, Personally I wouldn't have it polished as the one in the pic is because you end up with shares in brasso and spending all your time cleaning it rather than using it to keep it looking like it. But in the case of the pic that is what the customer wanted. As split pin has said you would need to remove the pipe and fitting that is on the left of your picture and pointing horozontally and it is in the bottom of the hole that is left behind, but as mentioned it can be very hard to see.
  12. the hole is at the bottom of the hole in the centre under the yellow arrow. The bottom of the hole is conical left from when it was drilled and at the centre point is the tiny hole (if you have one). It connects the yellow return drilling to the red filter to injector pump side drilling and essential maintains the fuel pressure at what it should be. This is only relevant if you have a lift pump, if you engine is gravity feed it doesn't need it.
  13. If it was running fine and now isn't its unlikely to be the hole i previously mentioned unless some crap has blocked it, It sounds to me like its probably not running on a cylinder properly. if one cylinder isn't bled and is airlocked the engine will run rough with no smoke as its not injecting at all. I would suggest first with the engine stopped but in the cold start position on the injection pump pulling the priming levers one by one until it goes firm and a squeak is heard from the injector, you may have to turn the engine over a bit by hand to be able to do this to all the cylinders (if the pump is already at the top moving the lever does nothing..) Alternatively if you struggle to hear the squeak or your not sure if you can or not, you can remove the rocker cover and slacken the injector pipe nut a turn or two and pull the levers as before, when you see fuel coming out around the nut re tighten it and do on the rest. when finished clean up an fuel and refit the cover. Then give it a go and hopefully all is well, if not pull the levers hard one by one with the engine running and hold it firmly down, with each one you should hear a noticeable change in engine note and if setup properly this should be balanced across all the cylinders. if one make a lot more difference than the others, or one doesnt seem to make hardly any difference at all then its not setup properly. Hope this helps and isnt too confusing.
  14. martyn 1

    JP/JK pulley

    Size of pulley on the crank will depend on the size of the pulley on the alternator or vice versa (Depending on which you already have) to get the best speed match, not to slow, but equally doesnt overspeed the alternator at higher engine speeds. So to do the job properly first you need the output curve for your alternator model which will give you the max speed and the speed it excites. We normally gear them so you are just short of max speed with the engine flat out which gives you the best possible output at tickover.
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