Ianbruce

She STARTED! On the Starter she got faster and faster until she finally picked up and ran. It was the starter..duff connections/ dirty armature with the fresh fuel just needed that tiny bit extra to fire up. Initially filled the sky with smoke but then ran clear even in gear. Thanks for all your advice. What's the thoughts on glow plugs for a JP engine. They fit in the Hi/Lo compression valves giving a compression halfway between the two settings. Also Red or Green fly wheel. Martin in the photo of the grey engine you sent there is a brass drain tap in the block plug hole can you tell me what size and thread that would be Cheers Ian

Fresh fuel made no diference. Starter taken to specialist and found to be in perfect working order. All connections cleaned back to battery. Will try it again tomorrow may just jump starter straight to battery. Having gone through all the advice from the start again. It's got to be something simple some where but what.

Fresh fuel made no diference. Starter taken to specialist and found to be in perfect working order. All connections cleaned back to battery. Will try it again tomorrow may just jump starter straight to battery. Having gone through all the advice from the start again. It's got to be something simple some where but what.

Thanks but it was close ...Mrs G had full blown heart attack 3 stents later shes back home. I will try fresh fuel tomorrow, fingers crossed. If no joy go through everything again if still no joy Ill take the starter motor to be tested. That will be fun bet it hasnt been out the case/ holder since 1959

Wotever: battery connections checked, earth checked. Voltage taken at starter motor. David: I dont have a handle. Intended to get one but never got around to it. As never needed before. Martin: I am going to try to start the engine with fresh fuel from a temporary supply and will go through your list when I bleed it through. I have timed at spill using the injector pipe. I know for a fact it used to run happily with the timing all over the place. I have a video off U tube exactly how to do it. We have tried spinning her up while decompressed and trying each cylinder in turn. The governor only pushes on the throttle lever which is currently disconected as the brass bar to the rack was found to be too long not allowing full throttle. It is all moving freely I freed it off . However it has always started as it was. My wife was rushed to hospital tonight so it may take a few days before I get back to you

Hi Martin, conducted a pressure test on the JP3 this morning and could only manage 200psi for each cylinder (600 to start 450 to run) which is way too low. Verdict being the starter motor is turning too slow. An electrical test saw 13v from fully charged battery dropping to 8v when starter engaged indicating a fault with the starter. I can rig up a temporary fuel supply with fresh fuel tomorrow and see if it will fire before stripping out the starter motor. Ive been told of a shop in Victoria Rd Leicester called Greens who can recondition the motor..

Yes the valves are screwed in tight and not leaking....for once

The engines firing but not picking up. Each cylinder is firing when the other two are decompressed.

Hi Martin, the plan was to change the oil, mop out the sump and tank, clean oil filter. Investigate why no3 cylinder was over heating. Clean fuel filter and address rust at the bottom of day tank caused by condensation/leaking roof at fuel filler. Pump coupling slack check key. Took out day tank 1/4 " thick and surface rust no problem. Cleaned out furry stuff / bug and refitted. Fuel filter cleaned in paraffin and refitted. Removed water pump found slave gear off crank gear missing teeth, Crank ok. Think I spoke to you when searching for a new gear. Had a new one made. Water Pump appeared to have seized taken apart and freed off. ( didnt know you had to oil it in filler at rear the other end is fed from the engine) all refitted. No3 head water passages blocked by lime scale, disolved out , new gasket and refitted. Fuel coupling key ok pinch bolt nut had broken bolt replaced no slack in coupling when replaced. Fuel system bled and primed tried to start no joy. Checked injectors 1 just dribbles, one not working,. Taken to injection specialist, 3 new nozzels fitted and tested. Only thing I can think of is bits got in the fuel line. 18 months since last ran. Having attemped to start I put some redex in each cylinder in case rings were stuck. There is definately compression in each of the cylinders. The elements on the pump are numbered as your photo shows. The numbers stamped into the pump body. No 1 element connects to the cylinder at the flywheel end, No2 to the middle one and No3 to the back one. Further to your previous post I found the O on the coupling with some wet n dry. It is in the correct position although I have got the fibre thingy around the wrong way. So the O on it doesnt quite line up with the other two. Further to my previous post I timed the spill cut off to 4 7/8" BTDC having checked No 1 cylinder was at TDC when the stamped TDC 1 mark on the fly wheel was in line with the mark on the block. The spill cut off was about 6 inches advanced but adjusted back on the vernier. Attempted to start engine, fired chasing the starter and lots of black smoke. But would not run. Tried misting easystart in front of air intake but this made little difference. I know its a simple engine it can only be timing ,fuel or compression but I,m at a loss. Thanks Ian

Thanks Martin, I havnt had the end cover off so if it is a tooth out then it has always been that way. I dont have the tools or kit to remove the fly wheel and end cover. I am following advice from Tony Dunkley over on Thunder Boat. I have tried turning the coupling 180 without joy there is no O mark on the other side of the coupling. Inside the pump, No1 pump as marked, rises on the cam on approach to the ignition mark and I set the spill point to the ignition mark . I have checked the No 1 Cylinder is at TDC when the mark on the fly wheel is in line with the line on the block and measured the distance to the ingition mark at 5 1/8". I shall try to set the spill at 4 7/8" I dont have a swan necked spill timing pipe so will try to us the pipe to the injector . I have used the nut method before when I renewed the key on the engine side of the coupling , must have been lucky I just checked it was ok and didnt need to adjust anything. I will keep trying.

The cotter pin bolt that holds the coupling to the engine drive was very worn and the nut split when I undid it. I have replaced this bolt with another now wondering if that has put the timing out. There is very little play in the coupling. It poss is a WW thread as I didnt have a nut to fit it. We did try turning the pump cam 180 incase it was out that way but nothing. If compression test is ok we will have to start from scratch and or have pump overhauled by specialist.

Hi, I havnt touched the drive gear for the pump unless you mean the drive coupling (fibre thingy). The cam ,crank, and beveled drive are as it was when it last ran. The timing mark you refer to I made to assist me putting it back together. We have tried every spill position from full advanced to full retard in increments without any sign of life except as I described in full retard. Going to do a compression test next in case rings have stuck although I have put redex in.

Sussed it, pics of the CAV pump note coupling is on a key way. Timing line matches up with line at 12 oclock on body.

Hi, checked No1 at tdc on comp stroke both valves closed. Timing mark on coupling matched to mark on pump body. Vernier mid point. Removed spring and valve from holder spill point located by turning fly wheel (23") back and forth. Refused to start after much fiddling fully retarded vernier engine now chasing starter but not running lost of grey smoke. Injectors creaking, new nozzels. Pump model Cav bpe 3b i think. label damaged. Photos file size too big not sure how to reduce.

Can anybody help...I have a JP3m in my Narrowboat. After overhauling the engine I cannot get the timing correct and the engine wont run. The pump a CAV type is different to the manual and does not have the 'R' mark but a keyway so the only adjustment is on the Vernier adj. The engine just shows signs of life fully retarded on the adj ( lots of grey smoke) but wont actually run. I started at the spill point, the fly wheel is 23" then adjusted the vernier.