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tommylad

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer
  • Boat Name
    The Whippet
  • Boat Location
    Shardlow

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  1. Dave, Sorry, I wasn't very clear in what I said. What I was proposing was to give up on the old tacho, and simply buy a new one, repaint its face and re-calibrate. This has the benefit of being quite straightforward, and giving me the ideal rev range, however, loses the character of the old instrument. I'm quite comfortable with programming though, I've done a bit in VBA and arduino code looks not too different to this, and I'm quite competent at basic soldering etc. I'm just not sure how big a project I want to make of this! I've managed for 30 years without a rev counter so it's definitely in the 'nice to have' category!
  2. Lots to consider here. Yes, my thinking was to gut the existing tacho and basically only keep the housing, face and needle, which would be driven by the movement from an electronic tacho. DMR - you've raised a very good point about starting from 250 - that may well be an issue. Perhaps the arduino idea could resolve this, although it sounds like a bit of a can of worms! Tacet, a motor drive is an idea, although I'm not sure it would be any simpler, and I'm not convinced how linear such a system would be? And jake_crew, I completely take your point about ruining an old instrument, however, I can't think of an application for this now? I assume it would've come off some form of stationary engine. To modify it for use on a boat surely can't be that bad?! (it beats sitting in a field at steam rallies :-P) That said, I think the modification may just prove to be too difficult... I'm now moving towards perhaps still buying this https://www.interparts.uk/1224v-alternator-pick-up-tachometer---0-8000rpm-0-523-80-7314-p.asp?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjoH0BRD6ARIsAEWO9DtSmZFK_S817wbf8T0mHfa2QzVmw2uluzyn2P6K8YP2mDAjNQ4XPMgaAiTfEALw_wcB or the ISSPRO but asking a local instrument restorer to repaint the face such that it goes from 0-1200 rpm which is the correct range for my JP (although I never take it above 900 anyway). I'll then be able to calibrate it quite easily. Many thanks for the tips!
  3. https://www.interparts.uk/1224v-alternator-pick-up-tachometer---0-8000rpm-0-523-80-7314-p.asp?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjoH0BRD6ARIsAEWO9DtSmZFK_S817wbf8T0mHfa2QzVmw2uluzyn2P6K8YP2mDAjNQ4XPMgaAiTfEALw_wcB This might be just the ticket.....
  4. I did wonder about this, but the pulley is the wrong orientation (the gauge would end up facing sideways!) and I'm not keen on a mechanical drive system which would need maintenance, a shroud for safety and also limit installation positions. As it happens, I'd also struggle to get a belt drive off my engine for it!
  5. OK, got a challenge for all you bored people in lockdown atm! I have this rev counter which is intended to be belt driven. I really like the idea of fitting new internals such that I can retain the clock face and needle, but drive it off the W post of my alternator. I'm confident enough of being able to do the mechanical side of this job, but I would appreciate if anyone can advise if it's possible to buy a rev counter that can be 'calibrated' to display the correct engine speed on this face? My alternator will be doing 7 353 rpm when the engine is at 1 000 rpm. Thanks!
  6. tommylad

    Lister Green

    I'm doing mine in 'deep brunswick green' from Paragon (stationary engine parts). Originally it was painted silver. Mine's a marine auxiliary engine.
  7. tommylad

    Modern Oils

    Having run my hand start only JP2 on Morris Golden film SAE 20 for the last couple of decades, and having recently dismantled the bottom end, I can confirm that it seems to have done a great job! Some of my bearings had fatigue damage to the white metal (no fault of the oil), and the big end journals wanted a re-grind to -10 thou, however the main journals only wanted a polish (still on original diameter). I'm reasonably confident I'm the first person to have removed the crank from my engine, so have no gripes about this level of wear/damage after 60 years of use. I've never put SAE 30 in it as it's hand start and I want to be able to use it in winter! Quick question - when I get it running again, should I use running-in oil? https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/golden-film-running-in-oil.html Bearing in mind (excuse the pun) that I've got new main bearings, big end bearings, pistons and liners it seems like it might be a good idea...
  8. Update - having fetched the paint off I've also found a Lloyd's stamp - cool! Anyone know what the 100PSI is referring to?
  9. Hi Frangar, I was taking my flywheel off the other day (like you do) and noticed a stamp in my crankcase that I've never spotted before - it reads 'RUNNING TEST 19 6 62' - which I guess is the engine equivalent of a date of birth! I was very chuffed to find it, and means the stamps on the crankcase door, flywheel and now crankcase all match which is nice. Worth checking on yours if you're still looking for something?
  10. Yes, to be honest it doesn't look out of place - it's only when you look closely that you realise it's not an original part!
  11. As per the title, my engine has a simple steel plate which has at some point been made and fitted to replace the original cast item. Inlet/exhaust manifold side of the engine. It would be nice to return it to original if anyone happens to have one knocking around?
  12. Thanks for the tip. I haven't yet cleaned up the bore in the block - it doesn't look too bad, but then nor did my liners until I cleaned them up!
  13. Yes indeed. Pretty confident mine has never seen salt water
  14. "That’s good to know!! I’ll bear you in mind! How did it go getting the liners out?? Did you replace them or was there another reason for pulling them??" They came out an absolute dream! Only needed 6 tons to get them out, no bangs or drama at all. Better to be prepared though! Plan for the worst, hope for the best..... I pulled them because one was leaking at the tell tale drain. I was hoping I might be able to re-use them, however I've just been cleaning them up, and one of them (the one that wasn't leaking!) has some very heavy pitting just above the o-rings, it's so deep it's only a couple of mm off getting right through! I'm impressed with the condition of the bores though, they have a 5 thou ridge at TDC, and are about 3 thou oval, which I think is pretty decent for a 60 year old engine.
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