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tommylad

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    United Kingdom

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer
  • Boat Name
    The Whippet
  • Boat Location
    Shardlow

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  1. Update - having fetched the paint off I've also found a Lloyd's stamp - cool! Anyone know what the 100PSI is referring to?
  2. Hi Frangar, I was taking my flywheel off the other day (like you do) and noticed a stamp in my crankcase that I've never spotted before - it reads 'RUNNING TEST 19 6 62' - which I guess is the engine equivalent of a date of birth! I was very chuffed to find it, and means the stamps on the crankcase door, flywheel and now crankcase all match which is nice. Worth checking on yours if you're still looking for something?
  3. Yes, to be honest it doesn't look out of place - it's only when you look closely that you realise it's not an original part!
  4. As per the title, my engine has a simple steel plate which has at some point been made and fitted to replace the original cast item. Inlet/exhaust manifold side of the engine. It would be nice to return it to original if anyone happens to have one knocking around?
  5. Thanks for the tip. I haven't yet cleaned up the bore in the block - it doesn't look too bad, but then nor did my liners until I cleaned them up!
  6. Yes indeed. Pretty confident mine has never seen salt water
  7. "That’s good to know!! I’ll bear you in mind! How did it go getting the liners out?? Did you replace them or was there another reason for pulling them??" They came out an absolute dream! Only needed 6 tons to get them out, no bangs or drama at all. Better to be prepared though! Plan for the worst, hope for the best..... I pulled them because one was leaking at the tell tale drain. I was hoping I might be able to re-use them, however I've just been cleaning them up, and one of them (the one that wasn't leaking!) has some very heavy pitting just above the o-rings, it's so deep it's only a couple of mm off getting right through! I'm impressed with the condition of the bores though, they have a 5 thou ridge at TDC, and are about 3 thou oval, which I think is pretty decent for a 60 year old engine.
  8. I had the following plates made from 20 mm steel to assist with removing the liners on my JP. If anyone wishes to borrow them you're welcome. (Available from Derby). To remove your liners using these plates you would need to obtain a hollow jack and a length of ≤M30 studding with nuts/washers as per the diagram/picture!
  9. tommylad

    liner puller

    Just thought I'd share my experiences on pulling my JP liners which I successfully did yesterday! Many thanks to all on this forum who's advice was a great help! I had the following plates laser profiled from 20 mm steel plate, and machined a register on the one which would locate on the underneath of the liners (I didn't want it slipping) I was then extremely fortunate to be able to borrow a 60 tonne hollow jack which sat on top, using some M30 studding to tie it all together. I was quite nervous about putting this much force across an old casting, however it ended up being quite anti-climatic - both liners came out with only 6 tons of force, with no bangs or alarming noises - just drifted out smoothly. I'm going to create a new post offering the three plates for anyone to borrow if they wish to use them themselves.
  10. Many thanks for this Martyn, although I'm afraid it leaves me very confused! I'm reasonably confident that the fuel pump shaft is concentric with the opening (see below piccie). Also, both the camshaft and fuel pump bevel gears (which mesh) have 22 teeth, therefore they must have the same PCD, so therefore if I was to use another 22 tooth 'camshaft' gear running off the existing camshaft gear, how is it possible it would go off-centre? Sorry to question this point, but I'm quite keen to understand it before spending any money on a new gear! It's interesting to learn they drove the air start off the fuel pump gear - I must say I was surprised and disappointed when I first removed this cover to find that there wasn't a drive dog already incorporated into this gear! (that would've been too simple!)
  11. I've already bought a pump (23430-1201) which I'm hoping to drive through a one-way clutch https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Sprag-Clutch-Bearings/CSK30-Budget-Sprag-Clutch-Bearing-without-Keyways-137633-p which will protect the pump from counter rotation
  12. Many thanks for the replies so far! I've contacted Tony Redshaw, and hopefully Richard will see this post I've also contacted Sleeman and Hawken just in case they have some... Frangar - yes, this is just what I'm hoping to do
  13. I just wondered if anyone can help me source the 22 tooth bevel gear fitted to the end of JP camshafts? I'm hoping to mount a jabsco pump where the marine water pump is located (driven off the camshaft gear) and I think the best way to drive it is with another camshaft gear which meshes with the existing. The manual gives '10-2-341' as the part number for the set of three gears, and the actual gear I'm after is stamped '81F34' Many thanks!
  14. Many thanks Martyn - very interesting to clear that up! My Dad bought my engine in the early 80s and was told that it was an auxiliary engine in an IoM ferry (which I therefore assume was its original installation). It was supplied with the copper oil tank and has water cooled exhaust (manifold and silencer) and has the flywheel at the non-pump end. It didn't have the marine gearbox, so it's now running a PRM gearbox. It's very strange to now know that it's been installed in our canal boat for longer than it was in the ferry for!
  15. tommylad

    liner puller

    Thank you for the wise words - I really appreciate your time taken to help With regard to the replacement parts, I was looking to buy them from Stationary Engine Parts - can you suggest if this is a good source for liners and pistons? I'm struggling to find any alternative with a quick web search! I was also hoping to buy the head gaskets from Marine Power Services to avoid the over thick gaskets. One question about the bump check - Is the best practise as per the workshop manual, using some lead to measure the height? If so, I'm not clear on whether the head nuts should be fully torqued to correctly compress the head gasket during the test? I know for a fact that the liners in mine haven't been changed in the last 30 years, and it wouldn't surprise me if the engine is largely undisturbed from original build. My Dad believes that the engine was not cooled with sea water directly - I just hope he's right! Oh, and no worries RLWP, I wasn't intending to jack beneath the liners, I have access to a hollow jack, so can use the method described by Martyn earlier in this thread Part of me is dreading this job due to worries of what I'll find and damage that could be caused from dismantling, but another part of me is really looking forward to learning more about the engine which I've thoroughly enjoyed listening to since I was about 3! (35 now)
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