Flat hosepipes

[Jeanie920]

I've seen one, it was flat all the time and was made of hardish plastic with a support in the middle. It was very restrictive.

 

 

In what way was it restrictive?

Jean

Edited October 17, 2011 by Jeanie920

[alan_fincher]

It has two connectors.

One comes through the middle of the reel and one on the end.

 

Jean

Yes but most "flat hosepipes" are exactly that - flat whewn on the reel, so would pass no, or almost no water. Obviously if you can use yours on the reel it can't be what I would think of as a truly "flat" one.

[Robbo]

In what way was it restrictive?

 

As in flow of water for said length of pipe.

[Jeanie920]

How does that work then ???

 

 

 

One end of the hose comes through the middle of the holder, and the other end is on the reel.You can see it here

 

http://www.thecaravanshop.co.uk/water-waste/brunner-15m-flat-hose/brunner-15m-flat-hose-spray-head/prod_819.html

 

Jean

[alan_fincher]

One end of the hose comes through the middle of the holder, and the other end is on the reel.You can see it here

 

http://www.thecaravanshop.co.uk/water-waste/brunner-15m-flat-hose/brunner-15m-flat-hose-spray-head/prod_819.html

 

Jean

How long does it typically take you to fully fill your water tank, if most of it is left on the reel, please ?

[Bob18]

I think a better description of those hoses would be "low profile" rather than flat.

 

They must reduce the potential flow through the pipe quite dramatically. Given the flow through a pipe is roughly proportional to its length and its cross-sectional area, for a given length of pipe a "normal" round hose has a cross section of about 170sqmm and one of these low profile hoses an area of about 18sqmm; a first estimate of it potential flow is about a tenth that of a normal hose (assuming it is the same internal width - about 15mm).

[haggis]

One end of the hose comes through the middle of the holder, and the other end is on the reel.You can see it here

 

http://www.thecaravanshop.co.uk/water-waste/brunner-15m-flat-hose/brunner-15m-flat-hose-spray-head/prod_819.html

 

Jean

 

That's what a "really" flat hose looks like on the reel and I reckon that one end sticks out in the middle of the reel so that the whole thing takes up less space when stored. Pretty sure that the hose would burst in some way if you try to use it while still on the reel.

 

Haggis

[Jeanie920]

How long does it typically take you to fully fill your water tank, if most of it is left on the reel, please ?

 

 

I dont really know. Probaby longer than a standard hose would but I dont mind. It's so much lighter,really easy to use and takes up less than a quarter of the space of a standard hose and real.

Jean

 

That's what a "really" flat hose looks like on the reel and I reckon that one end sticks out in the middle of the reel so that the whole thing takes up less space when stored. Pretty sure that the hose would burst in some way if you try to use it while still on the reel.

 

Haggis

 

As Bob said is not really flat. I dont really think that the flow is only a tenth of a normal hose. I would guess its about a quarter.

Jean

[Mac of Cygnet]

I gave up on my flat hose when it developed so many holes that the area around the tap became a no-go area, but I would have bought another if I could have bought just the hose, without the reel and fittings, but it doesn't seem to be available. Does anyone know a source of this - the complete set is a ridiculous price, especially in chandlers (the only place I've seen it)

 

At the moment I'm using one of those extending spiral hoses (bought at the local car boot for a fiver). It's amazing what they stretch to, but as they're mainly sold for garden use, perhaps they aren't of 'potable quality'. Certainly I've never seen anyone else using one.

[WJM]

"They must reduce the potential flow through the pipe quite dramatically"

 

I agree with your expectation, and your maths - but having used my flat hose for months now I can say; it is slower than a regular hose, but not significantly. My filling times are longer but they have not doubled.

[WotEver]

I guess that with hoses where you don't have to get all the water out before you coil them up (eg those on a drum) you have to run them for quite a while to rinse out the stale water prior to starting to fill the tank? Isn't stale water in a warm environment how Legionella multiplies?

 

I certainly flush ours every time prior to use.

 

Tony

[Bob18]

With any hose, even flat ones, it is a "very good idea" to run a few hose fulls of water through before starting to fill the tank.

[Guest]

With any hose, even flat ones, it is a "very good idea" to run a few hose fulls of water through before starting to fill the tank.

 

Totally agree, we always blast some water through ours and get a rather dodgy looking 'milky' solution ejected into the canal for a few seconds.

[Bob18]

Far better to "waste" a few gallons of water cleaning out a hose than to spend a few days hosing out your stomach contents...

[steelaway]

One of these with 15mts of kink free hose - perfect.

Never been a problem and I can find no reason to change it.

 

Alex

[Bob18]

I'll second that.

Like Alex, I feel no urge to replace it, but do get a proper Hozelock one, not a cheap rip-off copy one they just aren't as good.

 

 

(And there are lots of strange adaptors available for them so you can fit almost any style of tap ever invented)

[Alan Saunders]

I guess that with hoses where you don't have to get all the water out before you coil them up (eg those on a drum) you have to run them for quite a while to rinse out the stale water prior to starting to fill the tank? Isn't stale water in a warm environment how Legionella multiplies?

 

I certainly flush ours every time prior to use.

 

Tony

 

I have one of those Hozelock plastic reels that you see on offer for £20. The yellow hose appears to be a smaller diameter than a standard 1/2" garden hose. It is prone to kink and, unlike other hoses I have used the kinks become permanent.

 

Previously I simply had a length, maybe 10-12m, of (reinforced, green) hose that I coiled, secured with a loop of cord and hung, by the cord, in the gas locker. This takes up much less space than my useless plastic hose reel. The hose is uncoiled by rotating the whole coil until sufficient length is obtained. After use the coils are placed on the boat roof to aid drainage to the lower feed and supply ends. I cannot describe this properly, hopefully you get the drift.

 

I pefer to drain the hose after use - especially in winter when it may freeze; a hose with frozen water takes ages to thaw - I know! It still needs flushing before use, to get rid of any remaining water and whatever has crawled in, nested etc.

 

We have had the discussion about 'suitable for potable water' before and the general opinion was that using a hose not recommended for potable water to fill the water tank was OK so long as any standing water was flushed out. I know several people who claim that their hose taints the water. There was a good article in Waterways World a year or so back which gave appropriate dilutions of thin bleach (do not use the thick stuff!) to sterilise the hose, your water system and maintain protection for stored water.

 

It is so good when you explain a problem to someone (or post it on a Forum) and the solution becomes clear. Now I know that I want to try a proper flat (like the fire services use but much smaller), cartridge hose.

 

Alan

[plainsman]

Flat hose has served me well for 5 years without the problems cited. I have two, one for shorter lengths and the other for the odd time I am a longer way from the water point. In extreme cases I can attach them together using a Hozelock. Flat hoses are easier to store on board taking up less space that a 'conventional'type and more convenient to use As with any hose I endevour to keep the ends well away from the ground and the canal water. Each year I flush out the hoses with Milton solution. I never use water from my boat tank for drinking but carry a couple of litres of tap water replenished from the canal water points. Everyone has their own methods, these are mine.

[Jeanie920]

Flat hose has served me well for 5 years without the problems cited. I have two, one for shorter lengths and the other for the odd time I am a longer way from the water point. In extreme cases I can attach them together using a Hozelock. Flat hoses are easier to store on board taking up less space that a 'conventional'type and more convenient to use As with any hose I endevour to keep the ends well away from the ground and the canal water. Each year I flush out the hoses with Milton solution. I never use water from my boat tank for drinking but carry a couple of litres of tap water replenished from the canal water points. Everyone has their own methods, these are mine.

 

 

I store my flat hose and reel, in a carrier bag, on the boat when its not in use. Thats what I like about it. The fact that its so slim and light, and takes up so little room that I can do that.That was my criteria - others may have different ones. The standard hose on the big cumbersome reel sits by the water tap and is used for washing the boat

[Burgiesburnin]

I know that the original post asked about the efficiency of flat hose pipes, but while on the subject of hose pipes and therefore water points I wonder if this would work and if so would it be practical. The main issue with hose pipes seems to be the rolling out and the rolling up. If the hose was permanently rolled out then this issue would be resolved. Why not have a length of hose along each side of the boat that is captured and is able to be pulled out of it's "housing" and put back in with ease? The hose could be pushed into a length of slightly larger conduit or hosepipe that is open on one side and the required length pulled out as required. A short piece with a hose connector could be kept in the gas locker to connect either sides hose to the water filler point. After use the hose is then pushed back into it's housing.

[MtB]

As we are are virgin owners and only had our first boat now for a fortnight, the hosepipe is/has been kept in the bows gas locker and you need to be a member of Mensa to be able to get the damn thing out with out catching the gas pipes/regulator etc as its far too big on its coil. I have just ordered a flat hosepipe which is a lot smaller coiled up. Are they any good or no different. Our boat is 50ft and the new pipe is the same. Do you think that the length is sufficient as thats the longest I could find?

 

 

I'm surprised that no-one has commented yet that storing stuff in the gas locker is NOT permissible from a gas safety (or, IIRC, a BSS) point of view... The gas locker is for gas bottles, nothing else.

 

I reckon your insurance might be invalidated if there was a 'gas incident' and your gas locker was found to be full of hose pipes, coal bags, wellington boots, spare lines and general crap like most I see.... (including mine, lol).

 

Mike

(Anal gas bod)

[Guest]

I'm surprised that no-one has commented yet that storing stuff in the gas locker is NOT permissible from a gas safety (or, IIRC, a BSS) point of view... The gas locker is for gas bottles, nothing else.

 

I reckon your insurance might be invalidated if there was a 'gas incident' and your gas locker was found to be full of hose pipes, coal bags, wellington boots, spare lines and general crap like most I see.... (including mine, lol).

 

Mike

(Anal gas bod)

 

I don't think that is strictly true is it?

 

If I understand the wording in the BSS guide correctly it is that anything else stored in there must not be capable of damaging the cylinders or regulators, obstruct the spill vents or be a potential source of ignition or explosion.

 

(I can't confirm the exact wording because each and every time I try and download the BSS guide it crashes my PC )

 

Of course one way of categorically ensuring this is not to store other stuff in there but it's not prohibited in it's own right IIRC.

 

Ed to add wording -

 

Is the cylinder locker clear of any items that could damage the LPG

equipment or ignite leaked LPG?

Check the contents of all cylinder lockers.

Cylinder lockers must not contain loose sharp or heavy items such as

anchors or mooring pins that could damage the cylinders or other LPG

system components.

Cylinder lockers must not contain any item that could ignite leaked LPG.

Note – sources of ignition include open-flame or spark-inducing

equipment. Solenoid LPG system shut-off valves of suitable proprietary

manufacture are not presumed to be a source of ignition.

 

 

 

 

..

Edited October 19, 2011 by MJG

[Chertsey]

I'm with Alan on this. Most people's hoses are far longer than necessary leading to problems with kinking, storage and flushing through. Refilling on a BW waterpoint, you are rarely going to be more than a few yards away. If you need a long hose on your mooring, then leave it there. Alan's solution is a particularly elegant one; we just have a short one (shorter since we had to take a bit off to use at the Elsan point in Braunston) and have never had a problem. What is the maximum recorded distance between BW standpipe and bank edge?

[Guest]

I'm with Alan on this. Most people's hoses are far longer than necessary leading to problems with kinking, storage and flushing through. Refilling on a BW waterpoint, you are rarely going to be more than a few yards away. If you need a long hose on your mooring, then leave it there. Alan's solution is a particularly elegant one; we just have a short one (shorter since we had to take a bit off to use at the Elsan point in Braunston) and have never had a problem. What is the maximum recorded distance between BW standpipe and bank edge?

 

For me though it's not just about the perpendicular distance to the water point but also the lateral one.

 

We have encountered a couple of situations where boats moored on the water point and adjacent to it (and left un-occupied) have meant we have been a couple of boat lengths away from the water point it self meaning a lengthy hose was essential. We could have moved the boats on the point itself but I never feel OK with this if it involves moving them past another boat or even two.

 

Ed to add pic.

 

 

Further ed. to add - we also couldn't breast up with the BW boat on the water point as it would have blocked the narrow entrance to the basin which is just out of shot so we moored behind the boat the bow of which you can just see in the bottom left of the picture.

Edited October 19, 2011 by MJG

[Evo]

I'd have cast the BW boat adrift...