Mooring Ropes

[grandunion5]

Hi everyone.

 

I would just like your advice on bow, stern and middle mooring ropes. What length, thickness and material would you recommend?

 

Cheers,

 

Marc

[MtB]

Hi everyone.

 

I would just like your advice on bow, stern and middle mooring ropes. What length, thickness and material would you recommend?

 

Cheers,

 

Marc

 

 

Mostly depends on the size and sort of boat you have (amongst other things).

 

Length? Beam? Weight?

 

 

Mike

[koukouvagia]

Mostly depends on the size and sort of boat you have (amongst other things).

 

Length? Beam? Weight?

 

 

Agreed.

Also I'd advise using rope that floats - saves getting it round the blade!

[Maffi]

Hi everyone.

 

I would just like your advice on bow, stern and middle mooring ropes. What length, thickness and material would you recommend?

 

Cheers,

 

Marc

 

 

18mm blue polypropylene all round as a minimum. I have a 60 foot boat and all mine are 25/30 feet.

Polyprop floats and keeps the rope away from the propellor.

18mm is easier to handle than the 14mm ropes that are normally on sale.

If you must whimp out, as so many do, at least have 18mm on the centerline.

Other boaters will have to handle your boat when the string snaps or speeding boaters pull your pins out so make the c/l comfortable for them.

You might like to have two centerlines if you are likely to collect treasures on the roof. I have.

Edited July 22, 2011 by Maffi

[mrsmelly]

18mm blue polypropylene all round as a minimum. I have a 60 foot boat and all mine are 25/30 feet.

Polyprop floats and keeps the rope away from the propellor.

18mm is easier to handle than the 14mm ropes that are normally on sale.

If you must whimp out, as so many do, at least have 18mm on the centerline.

Other boaters will have to handle your boat when the string snaps or speeding boaters pull your pins out so make the c/l comfortable for them.

You might like to have two centerlines if you are likely to collect treasures on the roof. I have.

 

Maffi

 

You are learning arent you. Yes even for small boats like narrowboats 18mm is a good choice, even on a 20 foot springer. Its not just about being up to the job so to speak the rope also needs to be sensibly sized and comfortable to work with, anything smaller is not nice to grip for any length of time. Of course on something like a 200 x 20 foot working barge then 18mm would be about as much use as a chocolate fireguard.

[Chertsey]

If your boat is fairly long I would say that in addition to your front and back tying up ropes, and your centre line, you should carry a rope long enough to reach from the t-stud to the back of the boat. Many times I have found this invaluable in windy conditions, or on occasions when you can get the back in to the bank but not the front. Note I said carry - I wouldn't keep this permanently attached. As regards what sort, I have always been very happy with hempex - it looks good, lasts well and is pleasant to handle. 14mm would be my thickness of choice though I accidentally got 12mm for Chertsey which does the job fine, it just doesn't look so good.

[Ally]

We use a multifilament 16mm rope. Soft to handle but the strength is very good, splices ok.

Maffi..........MUST I have blue rope?????????

[Chalky]

If your boat is fairly long I would say that in addition to your front and back tying up ropes, and your centre line, you should carry a rope long enough to reach from the t-stud to the back of the boat. Many times I have found this invaluable in windy conditions, or on occasions when you can get the back in to the bank but not the front. Note I said carry - I wouldn't keep this permanently attached. As regards what sort, I have always been very happy with hempex - it looks good, lasts well and is pleasant to handle. 14mm would be my thickness of choice though I accidentally got 12mm for Chertsey which does the job fine, it just doesn't look so good.

 

We've got the other problem. Our boat is 40' and often mooring rings are either too far apart or too close together. We carry some 40' 12mm lines to use as springs in these situations as well as our 15' 14mm mooring lines. All are hempex. We have a set of blue polypropylene lines that we use as permenent mooring lines and these are stowed away when cruising.

 

We have 2 30' centre lines one hempex, one blue polypropylene. Both have steel rings spliced in one end and they are attached to the centre ring using mountaineering carabinas with a piece of carpet to protect the roof.

 

All lines have a loop spliced in one end and the other finished in a sailmakers whipping.

[grandunion5]

Thanks for your advice. True... I forgot to mention it was a 58ft narrowboat. Time to start shopping around now

 

Marc

[Robin2]

We've got the other problem. Our boat is 40' and often mooring rings are either too far apart or too close together. We carry some 40' 12mm lines to use as springs in these situations as well as our 15' 14mm mooring lines. All are hempex. We have a set of blue polypropylene lines that we use as permenent mooring lines and these are stowed away when cruising.

 

We have 2 30' centre lines one hempex, one blue polypropylene. Both have steel rings spliced in one end and they are attached to the centre ring using mountaineering carabinas with a piece of carpet to protect the roof.

 

All lines have a loop spliced in one end and the other finished in a sailmakers whipping.

 

Do you mean stuff that looks like this?

Edited July 23, 2011 by Robin2

[Theo]

Agreed.

Also I'd advise using rope that floats - saves getting it round the blade!

 

Naaah!

 

Floaty ropes are too light. When you throw them they blow about and don't carry very far. I like and nice heavy rope.

 

Nick

[Alan Saunders]

I like the 14mm hempex as recommended above. It is nice to handle, durable and economical.

Mine are nearing life end after fifteen years of constant use and exposure.

 

The cheap, often blue, polypropylene is harsh to handle when new and rapidly deteriorates with UV exposure.

This rope becomes 'hairy', the hairs are so hard that you get 'splinters' embeded in your flesh.

 

Mooring ropes need to be flexible to wrap nicely around the typical mooring pin, ring, t-stud or bollard.

I have inherited some very stiff 18mm stuff that is difficult to tie off at the T-stud; a loop of this barely passes through the 'D-ring' of a mooring spike.

 

12mm is adequate for a centre rope. It is a 'handling rope', not a 'mooring rope'. Single handed, it is long enough to double around a bollard and be tied off at bow or stern.

 

When I had a permanent bankside mooring I left suitable lengths of (old) rope there, (springs, bow and stern) which I picked up with a boat hook.

 

Apparently a sailing ship has 'only one rope', all the rest have names. I admit to now carrying an excess of cordage but previously I had a plan. All 'ropes' could be carried back to the steering position. Loops spliced in the centre ropes meant they could quickly extend bow or stern ropes with a sheet bend.

 

Alan

 

Edited to add, I see many boats using time-expired climbing rope. Excellent, if you are a climber or have climbing friends!

Edited July 23, 2011 by Alan Saunders

[PhilR]

 

Edited to add, I see many boats using time-expired climbing rope. Excellent, if you are a climber or have climbing friends!

 

I think it is a case of length rather than time-expired? ........ unless you are meaning static lines.

[FadeToScarlet]

I think it is a case of length rather than time-expired? ........ unless you are meaning static lines.

 

Climbers will replace their ropes after a set time, as it's impossible to assess the condition of the strong core. A rope that's not worth trusting with your life is very likely still strong enough for boat use.

[AlanH]

Climbers will replace their ropes after a set time, as it's impossible to assess the condition of the strong core. A rope that's not worth trusting with your life is very likely still strong enough for boat use.

I use climbing rope. It is a bit stretchy but it is nice to handle and does the job. I use it because I have a ready supply from our local climbing club.

[Mac of Cygnet]

A few years ago when Lidl was having a Boating Week, I bought some 'mooring rope'. It looked (and is) strong, was pleasant to handle, very flexible, and of course very cheap.

 

BUT as soon as it touches water it absorbs about three times its own weight, and becomes very difficult. I now only keep it to drop in a loop to stop the bottom plate grinding against sloping banks.

 

It's 18mm, in 3 twisted plies of about 8mm, but the individual fibres are extremely fine, much finer than polypropylene. Anyone any idea what it could be made of? Here it is:

 

 

Mac

[RLWP]

Sounds like a natural fibre, I wonder if it is cotton?

 

What a bargain

 

Richard

[Clivo]

I'm rather curious.

 

Having spent a large proportion of my working life working with and splicing fibre & wire rope, non of you good people seem to be using Staple Spun 3 Strand Polypropylene. I know it has a 'hairy' slightly rougher feel to it but it does have the highest size for size break load (for polypropylene) and has excellent resistance to wear and tear.

 

As you all know it floats and is easy to splice and cross whip.

 

The Blue Poly that seems to be in common use has a rope construction called 'Split Film' and is definitely at the cheap & cheerful end of the market and has the worst wear & tear resistance,( Monofilament Poly being a halfway house between splitfilm and staple), very popular with the haulage industry and the farming community.

 

Multifilament is usually a more expensive option and is more than 15% weaker on break load although this may not be that critical in a mooring scenario.

 

Is it just that smooth rope is more popular???

 

Your thoughts please.

 

Clivo

[RLWP]

I'm rather curious.

 

Having spent a large proportion of my working life working with and splicing fibre & wire rope, non of you good people seem to be using Staple Spun 3 Strand Polypropylene. I know it has a 'hairy' slightly rougher feel to it but it does have the highest size for size break load (for polypropylene) and has excellent resistance to wear and tear.

 

<snip>

 

Your thoughts please.

 

Clivo

 

This is the stuff that looks like natural fibre rope but isn't - right?

 

That is what I prefer to use myself

 

Richard

[Clivo]

This is the stuff that looks like natural fibre rope but isn't - right?

 

That is what I prefer to use myself

 

Richard

 

Hi Richard

 

I think your referring to Hempex, (Hardy Hemp or Hempoline), it comes in several marketing names. This is just a variation of multifilament for those who prefer the look and feel of natural fibre rope but with all the benefits of Polypropylene. Staple spun poly is most usually in white but can be found in a few colours.

 

Here's a pic - Clicky

 

Sorry about the quality of the picture but white rope ain't the easiest think to get a close-up of.

 

Clivo

Edited July 24, 2011 by Clivo

[RLWP]

Hi Richard

 

I think your referring to Hempex, (Hardy Hemp or Hempoline), it comes in several marketing names. This is just a variation of multifilament for those who prefer the look and feel of natural fibre rope but with all the benefits of Polypropylene. Staple spun poly is most usually in white but can be found in a few colours.

 

Here's a pic - Clicky

 

Sorry about the quality of the picture but white rope ain't the easiest think to get a close-up of.

 

Clivo

 

Ah yes, I know what you're talking about now. I find that stuff stiff and hard on the hands. I'd happily make fenders or mats from it, and IIRC our anchor uses it too

 

Richard

[Clivo]

Ah yes, I know what you're talking about now. I find that stuff stiff and hard on the hands. I'd happily make fenders or mats from it, and IIRC our anchor uses it too

 

Richard

 

If you come across any staple spun that on the stiff side it's not so much a material fault, more so a problem at the factory where the 'rope winding' machine has been set up a bit to tightly causing the three individual strands to be wound together a little bit on the hard side. I always found the now defunct Bridon Marine fibre rope to be excellent to splice and easy to coil and work with. English Braids was pretty good last time I used it but not the cheapest around.

 

Eight strand (Multi-plat or Squareline) Poly is easy to use and coils down really easy but it's splicing is rather more involved than 3 strand so may be difficult for the average user.

 

Party On Dudes

 

Clivo

Edited July 24, 2011 by Clivo

[RLWP]

<snip>

 

Eight strand (Multi-plat or Squareline) Poly is easy to use and coils down really easy but it's splicing is rather more involved than 3 strand so may be difficult for the average user.

 

<snip>

 

Clivo

 

 

I have a lovely book that covers splicing of eight strand sennit, including splicing it onto a chain. All good fun

 

Richard

[Alan Saunders]

I'm rather curious.

 

Having spent a large proportion of my working life working with and splicing fibre & wire rope, non of you good people seem to be using Staple Spun 3 Strand Polypropylene. I know it has a 'hairy' slightly rougher feel to it but it does have the highest size for size break load (for polypropylene) and has excellent resistance to wear and tear.

 

As you all know it floats and is easy to splice and cross whip.

 

The Blue Poly that seems to be in common use has a rope construction called 'Split Film' and is definitely at the cheap & cheerful end of the market and has the worst wear & tear resistance,( Monofilament Poly being a halfway house between splitfilm and staple), very popular with the haulage industry and the farming community.

 

Multifilament is usually a more expensive option and is more than 15% weaker on break load although this may not be that critical in a mooring scenario.

 

Is it just that smooth rope is more popular???

 

Your thoughts please.

 

Clivo

Excellent information. After much research for a non-boating application I decided that staple-spun polypropylene was the the best value for rope that was dragged along the, wet, gritty ground and required spliced ends.

 

As you say, breaking strain is not a major factor for mooring/handling ropes. Generally the mooring pins will pull out before the rope breaks. Mayabe there is an argument for using 8mm Spilt Film (as BW do!:-).

 

I find the 'hairy' rope acceptable but I am informed, by the rope salesman, SWMBO, MIL etc., that the ladies prefer the softer, smoother rope. It is the hard splinters that some (old) rope embeds in my calloused hands that I find painful.

 

Alan

[Alan Saunders]

A few years ago when Lidl was having a Boating Week, I bought some 'mooring rope'. It looked (and is) strong, was pleasant to handle, very flexible, and of course very cheap.

 

BUT as soon as it touches water it absorbs about three times its own weight, and becomes very difficult. I now only keep it to drop in a loop to stop the bottom plate grinding against sloping banks.

 

It's 18mm, in 3 twisted plies of about 8mm, but the individual fibres are extremely fine, much finer than polypropylene. Anyone any idea what it could be made of? Here it is:

 

 

Mac

it looks to me too 'shiny' to be a natural fibre; artificial fibres can be 'fine'.

The roves appear to be plaited which will make it more elastic than a traditional rope.

To determine the material type, apply a flame. Vegetable fibres burn to ash, artificial fibres change state and colour. e.g. Nylon goes harder and brown.

 

Alan