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Faulty Pressure Switch?


mark_hookway

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My Johnson water pump has decided to stop working. From previous posts it seems it is a faulty pressure switch, nothing happens when I turn the taps on, but a gentle tap gets it going perfectly - is this likely to be it?

 

Does anyone know if Johnson pumps have dodgy switches as this is the third pump I have had this year and keep having to send them back because of the same problem, now its happening again I am wondering whether I must be doing something wrong? It was working pretty well and only failing when I take the boat for a cruise. I went a little further than normal this weekend and now it isnt working properly, why would this affect it?

 

I still have warranty on the pump so it is not a huge problem, but as I permanently live on the boat being without water whilst I send it back etc is very annoying.

 

Thank you in advance for your time and any help or suggestions you may have.

 

Mark

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I have no great help I'm afraid, but I am having a similar problem with a new pump we've bought.

 

It's one of those 45psi 20-odd L/min massive things, and we've not fitted the accumulator yet - do you have one? An accu, and/or massive pump, that is?

 

Ours gets stuck, despite the mechanism being incredibly simple inside - in a can't-possibly-go-wrong sort of way. I'll start a new thread at some point if the accu doesn't fix it, but I'm curious to know if your problem is similar! :lol:

 

Sorry!

 

PC

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Not sure of the make of Gamebird's water pump, but a similar problem was cured by dismantling the switch (carefully, so as not to have the spring escaping :lol: ) and clearing the entrance hole to the switch. When the problem re-occurred a few months later, I enlarged the hole a bit (IIRC, to 1/8") and it has been OK since.

 

Iain

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Not sure of the make of Gamebird's water pump, but a similar problem was cured by dismantling the switch (carefully, so as not to have the spring escaping :lol: ) and clearing the entrance hole to the switch. When the problem re-occurred a few months later, I enlarged the hole a bit (IIRC, to 1/8") and it has been OK since.

 

Iain

Maybe lack of filter letting muck unto the switch.

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I have no great help I'm afraid, but I am having a similar problem with a new pump we've bought.

 

It's one of those 45psi 20-odd L/min massive things, and we've not fitted the accumulator yet - do you have one? An accu, and/or massive pump, that is?

 

Ours gets stuck, despite the mechanism being incredibly simple inside - in a can't-possibly-go-wrong sort of way. I'll start a new thread at some point if the accu doesn't fix it, but I'm curious to know if your problem is similar! :lol:

 

Sorry!

 

PC

 

I hope yours gets sorted! I have an accumulator and have previosly checked it so has the right pressure, but didnt make any long term improvements. I dont think the pump is particularly big but have tried the manufacturers to see if they can shed any light, I was thinking there may have been a load built with dodgy switches or something.

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My Johnson water pump has decided to stop working. From previous posts it seems it is a faulty pressure switch, nothing happens when I turn the taps on, but a gentle tap gets it going perfectly - is this likely to be it?

 

Does anyone know if Johnson pumps have dodgy switches as this is the third pump I have had this year and keep having to send them back because of the same problem, now its happening again I am wondering whether I must be doing something wrong? It was working pretty well and only failing when I take the boat for a cruise. I went a little further than normal this weekend and now it isnt working properly, why would this affect it?

 

I still have warranty on the pump so it is not a huge problem, but as I permanently live on the boat being without water whilst I send it back etc is very annoying.

 

Thank you in advance for your time and any help or suggestions you may have.

 

Mark

 

I'm not familiar with the Johnson pump, but have had similar problems with 2 Shureflow pumps. In both cases it has been the microswitch at fault. I keep a rubber hammer next to the pump just in case! But the switches are a cheap consumable item.

It might be worth cleaning the contacts on the fuse which supplies power to the pump. They take a few amps on start-up and dirty contacts won't help. Freshwater pumps aren't cheap these days so if all else fails it would be best contacting the supplier before the warranty runs out.

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Maybe lack of filter letting muck unto the switch.

 

Quite likely; however the original hole (after clearing) seemed smaller than the usual pre-filter mesh size. It's worked ever since, so fitting a filter is on the "do some day" list. :lol:

 

Iain

Edited by Iain_S
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My Johnson water pump has decided to stop working. From previous posts it seems it is a faulty pressure switch, nothing happens when I turn the taps on, but a gentle tap gets it going perfectly - is this likely to be it?

 

Does anyone know if Johnson pumps have dodgy switches as this is the third pump I have had this year and keep having to send them back because of the same problem, now its happening again I am wondering whether I must be doing something wrong? It was working pretty well and only failing when I take the boat for a cruise. I went a little further than normal this weekend and now it isnt working properly, why would this affect it?

Couple of thoughts, vibration from running the engine may be affecting a loose connection or stirring up crud in the water tank or pipework.

 

Try putting a voltmeter or test lamp across the switch when the pump isn't working.

 

cheers,

Pete.

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I was going to post a request seeking help as my Johnson pump has ceased to work properly, only coming on when the pressure gets very low. I take it from the previous posts that removing the pressure switch from the top of the pump is relatively straightforward. Does it need any specialist tools?

 

I have an accumulator and a coarse filter.

Edited by Bugsworth Tippler
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Couple of thoughts, vibration from running the engine may be affecting a loose connection or stirring up crud in the water tank or pipework.

 

Try putting a voltmeter or test lamp across the switch when the pump isn't working.

 

cheers,

Pete.

 

Yes, it's just as likely (if not more likely) to be a faulty electrical connection as a faulty pressure switch - especially if the same thing keeps happening on different pumps.

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Couple of thoughts, vibration from running the engine may be affecting a loose connection or stirring up crud in the water tank or pipework.

 

Try putting a voltmeter or test lamp across the switch when the pump isn't working.

 

cheers,

Pete.

 

 

That sounds like it could be a factor and something I have perhaps discounted as checking all the wiring wont be a simple job, although the switch is defo faulty I am sure as not working at all now without a tap on the front.

 

I was going to post a request seeking help as my Johnson pump has ceased to work properly, only coming on when the pressure gets very low. I take it from the previous posts that removing the pressure switch from the top of the pump is relatively straightforward. Does it need any specialist tools?

 

I have an accumulator and a coarse filter.

 

I have removed them on previous pumps and will try this again. You only need a screwdriver on the pump I have. The switch is a seperate piece on the end of the main pump, but I am sure they are different on different types of pumps.

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I'll be onto my third water pump on Cobbett by the weekend, Not one has lasted beyond three days. Same fault, faulty pressure switch only cured by a swipe of the rubber mallet. I thought it was me jinxing them as I got through four on Surprise. This time it's perfectly installed with inline filter and accumulator correctly pressurised; and God knows I've done enough now.

 

Mine are Shurflo pumps from Midlands. I really think that there is a problem with the components used in water pumps, the pressure switch in the Shurflo is a nasty cheap thing which in a pump that cost over £120 isn't acceptable. It can't be a coincidence that so many of us are experiencing problems. The pump on my old Dawncraft is the same on that was in it when I bought it many years ago.

 

Edit accidentally posted twice - that's how fed-up I am. I want a shower in one pass not be running round a boat soapy and naked wielding a rubber mallet, damn it!

Edited by wrigglefingers
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I'll be onto my third water pump on Cobbett by the weekend, Not one has lasted beyond three days. Same fault, faulty pressure switch only cured by a swipe of the rubber mallet. I thought it was me jinxing them as I got through four on Surprise. This time it's perfectly installed with inline filter and accumulator correctly pressurised; and God knows I've done enough now.

 

Mine are Shurflo pumps from Midlands. I really think that there is a problem with the components used in water pumps, the pressure switch in the Shurflo is a nasty cheap thing which in a pump that cost over £120 isn't acceptable. It can't be a coincidence that so many of us are experiencing problems. The pump on my old Dawncraft is the same on that was in it when I bought it many years ago.

 

Edit accidentally posted twice - that's how fed-up I am. I want a shower in one pass not be running round a boat soapy and naked wielding a rubber mallet, damn it!

 

This may sound daft but how do you know that with the inline filter and accumulator it is perfectly fitted? I never used to have a filter in the old pump and now I do I am having problems. It does seem to be fitted well and the same with the accumulator I have tested it before and it pumps the water smoothly, but makes no difference to hitting the pressure switch. Mine has since stoped completely without a small tap so your shower story may occur here tomorrow!

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That sounds like it could be a factor and something I have perhaps discounted as checking all the wiring wont be a simple job, although the switch is defo faulty I am sure as not working at all now without a tap on the front.

 

 

 

I have removed them on previous pumps and will try this again. You only need a screwdriver on the pump I have. The switch is a seperate piece on the end of the main pump, but I am sure they are different on different types of pumps.

I note in your other thread you have battery problems, the two could be linked

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Mine are Shurflo pumps from Midlands.

I'm tempted to ask why you don't try an alternative to Shurflo, seeing as they seem to be reported as problematic more than some of the alternatives ?

 

That said, (and touch wood), our Shurflo has not been a problem since it replaced the defective on the boat came with.

 

£120 sounds a lot - I'm assuming it's something more than a "dead normal" one ?

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I'll be onto my third water pump on Cobbett by the weekend, Not one has lasted beyond three days. Same fault, faulty pressure switch only cured by a swipe of the rubber mallet. I thought it was me jinxing them as I got through four on Surprise. This time it's perfectly installed with inline filter and accumulator correctly pressurised; and God knows I've done enough now.

 

What I've done is to use the pressure switch to drive the pump motor via a standard 12V car relay:

 

The pressure switch switches power to the relay coil and NOT the pump motor.

 

Then then the relay contacts switch power to the pump motor.

 

That way the pressure switch is switching a much smaller load (the relay coil instead of the pump motor) and will last almost indefinitely. I can draw a piccy if need be.

 

 

Mine are Shurflo pumps from Midlands. I really think that there is a problem with the components used in water pumps, the pressure switch in the Shurflo is a nasty cheap thing which in a pump that cost over £120 isn't acceptable. It can't be a coincidence that so many of us are experiencing problems. The pump on my old Dawncraft is the same on that was in it when I bought it many years ago.

 

In some situations the pressure switch can oscillate as it switches off, reducing it's life massively.

 

Using a relay as above means the wear and tear is on the relay, which has MUCH bigger contacts so will last MUCH longer, and is cheap and easy to replace.

 

cheers,

Pete.

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What I've done is to use the pressure switch to drive the pump motor via a standard 12V car relay:

 

The pressure switch switches power to the relay coil and NOT the pump motor.

 

Then then the relay contacts switch power to the pump motor.

 

That way the pressure switch is switching a much smaller load (the relay coil instead of the pump motor) and will last almost indefinitely. I can draw a piccy if need be.

 

 

 

 

In some situations the pressure switch can oscillate as it switches off, reducing it's life massively.

 

Using a relay as above means the wear and tear is on the relay, which has MUCH bigger contacts so will last MUCH longer, and is cheap and easy to replace.

 

cheers,

Pete.

 

Hello Pete,

 

That is a genius idea - will investigate today. I think I know how to do it - I was going to take the whole thing apart this weekend as on reflection it clearly is just the pressure switch. The system is pressurised on the standard accumulator ball - that wouldn't make too much difference would it?

 

Jill

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Sounds like a good theme for another of those 6th form plays...

 

Tony :lol:

 

Nah, that would be farce and believe me, no self-respecting (read self-obsessed) 6th former wants to do farce when they can do tragic angst instead!

 

Okay, water pump has been removed and stripped down. I also stripped down my spare - which I know works on the system - and compared the two. The super expensive one (as opposed to the one I bought secondhand from Limekiln, fresh off a hireboat) had the tiniest bleed hole (I couldn't see it, only feel it) in the thing I-don't-know-what-it's-called-but-it's-not-the-diaphragm, compared to the other. It was so small when I slicked a film of water over it the menicus formed by the water didn't let any air through to operate the pressure switch so after consultation the hole was made larger and now the water pump cuts in and out correctly. This suggests that there wasn't enough pressure in the ball, however, as I tried it from 50psi (the pump is rated at 55psi) all the way down to none with no difference it would appear that the hole was simply too small. So far ....

 

Will put a relay in this afternoon ....

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Hello Pete,

 

That is a genius idea - will investigate today. I think I know how to do it - I was going to take the whole thing apart this weekend as on reflection it clearly is just the pressure switch. The system is pressurised on the standard accumulator ball - that wouldn't make too much difference would it?

To be honest I don't really know, but if a relay is put in you can hear from the relay clicking how the pressure switch cuts in and out.

 

That said, maybe the tiny hole in the switch acts to damp out pressure swings, so a bigger hole may affect how it works. But the relay will almost eliminate wear on the pressure switch contacts anyway...

 

cheers,

Pete.

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Personally I would forget any pump's inbuilt switch and fit a decent external pressure switch (Double D I think). Compared with the inbuilt switch they are massive with a huge contact area. The diaphragm and hole leading to it are also large. To cap it all the are very easy to adjust. I think I paid about £20 10 years ago, so not much help but they seem to last forever and outlast the modern pumps.

 

You certainly have no need for a relay if using one but it would be a good idea to use a relay to send power to the switch if you are using household (AC) switch(es) to control the pump.

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:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

Square D perchance?

 

Cheered up my day though, all the same... Something(s) on your mind, Tony? :lol:

 

PC

 

 

Yes - that's the jobbie. I fitted on a soon as I bought the boat.

 

The main thing on my mind at the moment is the lack of response to my message about topics for the London Boat Show, however its too late now, negotiations have opened so I am trying to work out how I transfer semi-practical training to a theatre type environment.

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