How do you use the Bollards?

[Laurence Hogg]

In a conversation with Chris Coburn (NB Progress) the other day I asked him, how would you use the new bollards? No immediate answer was forthcoming but the email copied below raises a serious question, that is that BW shouls show us.

 

"Hi Laurence,

 

Here is a comment from me regarding the BW bollards issue.

 

I am mystified, to say the least, regarding a need for new bollards being installed on narrow locks, as it is being done. NO-ONE has been able to give me an answer, other than "its for H&S".

 

Ok, if such sets of three bollards are required for the safe use of narrow locks, PLEASE CAN WE BE SHOWN HOW TO USE THEM and have their safety features demonstrated. Surely that is not an unreasonable request. A suitable "public demonstration" with ALL invited to see would enable British Waterways to put my, and most other boaters, queries to rest?

 

All the best,

Chris"

 

The actual email can be forwarded to anyone who requires proof of the quote being genuine, however I have forwarded to Robin Evans and Simon Salem asking for a demonstration.

Edited December 20, 2008 by Laurence Hogg

[denboy]

Never use them, wife does as a handy seat while waiting for the lock to fill

[Mac of Cygnet]

Never use them, wife does as a handy seat while waiting for the lock to fill

 

I must be one of the very few people who actually use centre bollards if available. When single-handed, it is very handy to drop one of the loops of my centre rope over a suitably-placed bollard (I have two centre ropes, one normal and one with two spaced loops) and know that my 27ft boat isn't going to be either pushed under the waterfall coming over the top gate or (less likely) shoved back against the bottom V.

 

I'm definitely not trying to start a debate on locking technique here: I just know what works for me. I can do without centre bollards, but they are handy - I have on occasion (shhhh.......) dropped my loop over a better-placed ladder.

 

Mac

[Zoro]

I agree with the last comment.In narrow locks my boat probably isnt going to move much in either direction. However I am single handed and I do like to throw a loose rope around a bollard.Just in case.

It is always easy to be distracted.I like to know where the boat is.!!

[David Schweizer]

I agree with the last two posters, when I did a lot of single handed boating, I used to pray for centre bollards, rather than having to find a suitable tree, or at worst, tie the centre line onto the ladder hand rail.

 

There are a lot of peiople who only see things from their own perspective, rather than try to envisage the wider image. Having said that, round bollards rather than square ones, might be kinder to the rope.

[Theo]

I agree with the last two posters, when I did a lot of single handed boating, I used to pray for centre bollards, rather than having to find a suitable tree, or at worst, tie the centre line onto the ladder hand rail.

 

There are a lot of peiople who only see things from their own perspective, rather than try to envisage the wider image. Having said that, round bollards rather than square ones, might be kinder to the rope.

 

Despite the replies above I cannot for the life of me see how they can be anything but a danger. Going up in a 60'er they cannot prevent surging forward to hit the top gate or back to hit the bottom, unless the centre line is held very tight and tightened repeateldly as the boat rises. Going down they will very likely hang up the boat.

 

I single handed up Tardebigge a few weeks ago and was not in the least tempted to use a middle bollard or, for that matter any other.

 

Nick

[alan_fincher]

So that's some support for the middle one from single handed boaters.

 

Anyone found a use for the other two ?

[NB Alnwick]

So that's some support for the middle one from single handed boaters.

 

Anyone found a use for the other two ?

 

When boating single handed, I cannot say that I use any of them.

 

It would be much more useful to have a bollard just outside the lock exits so that one can secure a line to make sure the boat doesn't drift off while complying with BW's requirement to close the gate(s).

 

Lift bridges operated from the wrong side of the canal (where there is nowhere to land) are also a challenge to single handed boating - now bollards and landing stages here might just be useful . . .

[Big John]

Lift bridges operated from the wrong side of the canal (where there is nowhere to land) are also a challenge to single handed boating - now bollards and landing stages here might just be useful . . .

Now that is one thing that the K&A does have right - peculiar!

[koukouvagia]

So that's some support for the middle one from single handed boaters.

 

Anyone found a use for the other two ?

 

Yes, I use the bollard nearest to the top gate to stop the boat. When going downhill I always step off the boat holding the centreline and as it’s going into the lock I strap the line round the nearest bollard, gently bringing the boat to a standstill. In the olden days there used to be special strapping posts – rather like tree trunks at the mouth of each lock for this purpose, but over the years these have decayed and have not been replaced.

I certainly don’t see that these new bollards serve any H&S function, but they might, just might be useful as strapping posts. Has anyone used one of these square things for this purpose?

[Chris J W]

I've not had opportunity to use (abuse?) one yet, but isn't the OP talking about getting BW to say EXACTLY which bit of Elfin-Safety they are meant to ascribe to, and (if this is a new bit of ElfinSafety) then shouldn't BW then have a (legal?) obligation to show and tell us EXACTLY how these new bollards are to be used?

[alan_fincher]

At risk of repeating old news, BW has admitted that the square design was ill thought out, and is currently assessing options to modify them to make them more useable, (although what for still remains largely a mystery, I think).

 

The options are supposed to include...

 

1) Do nothing.

2) Provide radiused corners to allow ropes to slide better (estimated cost £24,000)

3) Fabricated round steel sleeve cappings (estimated cost £160,000)

4) Round off most of the bollard, leaving a square top (estimated cost £65,000)

 

I'm not sure if these costs relate just to the West Midlands area, or to a a wider number of installed posts.

 

BW report that going for the most expensive option (3) would mean other canal repairs having to be abandoned to fund it.

 

(Source Waterways World).

 

You really couldn't make this up, could you.

 

I hope they all get their full bonuses.

[Mac of Cygnet]

Despite the replies above I cannot for the life of me see how they can be anything but a danger. Going up in a 60'er they cannot prevent surging forward to hit the top gate or back to hit the bottom, unless the centre line is held very tight and tightened repeateldly as the boat rises. Going down they will very likely hang up the boat.

 

I single handed up Tardebigge a few weeks ago and was not in the least tempted to use a middle bollard or, for that matter any other.

 

Nick

 

Yes, I did say that my boat is only 27ft. Without being tied up somewhere in the middle, it can get quite a bit of speed up before hitting the front or back gates while going up a lock. With a 60ft boat I wouldn't use this method. As for hanging up, well you get to estimate quite well how much slack to leave (hope this isn't inviting disaster - I haven't hung up yet!). Of course in wide locks centre bollards are even more use to me, especially with the unpredictable filling patterns on the C&H locks, but they haven't made their appearance much round here yet.

 

Mac

Edited December 21, 2008 by Mac of Cygnet

[Theo]

When boating single handed, I cannot say that I use any of them.

 

It would be much more useful to have a bollard just outside the lock exits so that one can secure a line to make sure the boat doesn't drift off while complying with BW's requirement to close the gate(s).

 

Lift bridges operated from the wrong side of the canal (where there is nowhere to land) are also a challenge to single handed boating - now bollards and landing stages here might just be useful . . .

 

Theodora has a very long centre line. I open the top gate and get her moving forward. Just before the stern comes level with the end of the balance beam I step off with the centre line and take a urn around the iron handle on the end of the beam. I ensure that the rope is on the outside of the paddle gear and sar the gae swinging. The centre line comes tight and helps me to shut the gae.

 

Nick

 

(dodgy T key)

 

Yes, I did say that my boat is only 27ft. Without being tied up somewhere in the middle, it can get quite a bit of speed up before hitting the front or back gates while going up a lock. With a 60ft boat I wouldn't use this method. As for hanging up, well you get to estimate quite well how much slack to leave (hope this isn't inviting disaster - I haven't hung up yet!). Of course in wide locks centre bollards are even more use to me, especially with the unpredictable filling patterns on the C&H locks, but they haven't made their appearance much round here yet.

 

Mac

 

In wide locks I use the long centre line and make it fast with a clove hitch to a bollard well aft. I then leave the engine ticking over ahead to keep her alongside.

 

Nick

[Chris J W]

Lift bridges operated from the wrong side of the canal (where there is nowhere to land) are also a challenge to single handed boating - now bollards and landing stages here might just be useful . . .

 

Hear, Hear!

[Tam & Di]

In wide locks I use the long centre line and make it fast with a clove hitch to a bollard well aft. I then leave the engine ticking over ahead to keep her alongside.

 

Nick

 

I suspect knots and locks have been discussed to death already, but "search" did not come up with anything. This is a good basic technique for going uphill one handed. We ran the Leeds & Liverpool shortboat Farnworth as a tripboat from Uxbridge on the southern GU one handed (it was long before Health & Safety mantras, but don't let your children do this). Denham Deep is much too deep to be able to get off once you're in the lock. I would leave her in head gear and step off with a stern line as she came in and strap her to a halt on the big wooden strapping post just next to the bottom gates. I couldn't let her come up against the cill as water would be on the decks then.

 

However the main reason for posting is to query the use of a clove hitch. A very useful knot for tying to a mooring stake - if the stake gets pulled out by a passing boat the stake is not lost. Other than that it is a liability. It can easily seize so tight the only way to get it off is to get the knife out, and so too if it is used in winter and the line freezes. The hitch invariably used by boatmen and Thames lightermen is far safer. It can be put on very quickly, and is simply an extension of strapping the boat to a halt. It won't slip, but can be "unfolded" even with extreme tension on the other end or when the line is frozen solid. The picture may give better explanation for those who don't use this hitch.

 

(edited to say I've now found a discussion May 2005 in "Boat Handling" where it is referred to as a "tugman's hitch")

 

Edited December 21, 2008 by Tam & Di

[Theo]

I suspect knots and locks have been discussed to death already, but "search" did not come up with anything. This is a good basic technique for going uphill one handed. We ran the Leeds & Liverpool shortboat Farnworth as a tripboat from Uxbridge on the southern GU one handed (it was long before Health & Safety mantras, but don't let your children do this). Denham Deep is much too deep to be able to get off once you're in the lock. I would leave her in head gear and step off with a stern line as she came in and strap her to a halt on the big wooden strapping post just next to the bottom gates. I couldn't let her come up against the cill as water would be on the decks then.

 

However the main reason for posting is to query the use of a clove hitch. A very useful knot for tying to a mooring stake - if the stake gets pulled out by a passing boat the stake is not lost. Other than that it is a liability. It can easily seize so tight the only way to get it off is to get the knife out, and so too if it is used in winter and the line freezes. The hitch invariably used by boatmen and Thames lightermen is far safer. It can be put on very quickly, and is simply an extension of strapping the boat to a halt. It won't slip, but can be "unfolded" even with extreme tension on the other end or when the line is frozen solid. The picture may give better explanation for those who don't use this hitch.

 

(edited to say I've now found a discussion May 2005 in "Boat Handling" where it is referred to as a "tugman's hitch")

 

 

Now that is a good knot. I will practise with it. I rather suspect tha is is somewhat slow than a clove hitch but I take the point about the undoability

[Mac of Cygnet]

In wide locks I use the long centre line and make it fast with a clove hitch to a bollard well aft. I then leave the engine ticking over ahead to keep her alongside.

 

Nick

 

I presume you are talking about going up a lock. This, for me at least, would involve pulling the boat alongside the ladder, climbing down again, setting the throttle, and climbing up again, while at the same time looking out for the rope coming back from the centre, not to get knocked off the ladder. Also, at least with my short boat, it will definitely not stay alongside unless the tiller is tied straight. One ladder-climb is more than enough. As I said before, centre bollards work for me, and failng that the ladder itself. I'm not saying what anyone else should be doing.

 

Mac

Edited December 21, 2008 by Mac of Cygnet

[Phil Speight]

Despite the replies above I cannot for the life of me see how they can be anything but a danger. Going up in a 60'er they cannot prevent surging forward to hit the top gate or back to hit the bottom, unless the centre line is held very tight and tightened repeateldly as the boat rises. Going down they will very likely hang up the boat.

 

I single handed up Tardebigge a few weeks ago and was not in the least tempted to use a middle bollard or, for that matter any other.

 

Nick

Absolutely . They are absolute nonsense ,.

Phil

[Tam & Di]

Now that is a good knot. I will practise with it. I rather suspect tha is is somewhat slow than a clove hitch but I take the point about the undoability

 

Actually, no. The "boatman's" hitch' is probably quicker than a clove hitch once your hands know how to do it rather than your brain, as it were.

[howardang]

Actually, no. The "boatman's" hitch' is probably quicker than a clove hitch once your hands know how to do it rather than your brain, as it were.

Sometimes called a lighterman's hitch, sometimes a tugman's hitch as well, also, as a boatman's hitch it is very useful hitch for making fast to a single dolly/stud rather than using a clove hitch which is not as secure and can sometimes jamb.

 

This animation might help.

 

http://www.marinews.com/Lightermans-Hitch-730.php

 

Regards

 

Howard

Edited December 21, 2008 by howardang

[RLWP]

Sometimes called a lighterman's hitch, sometimes a tugman's hitch as well, also, as a boatman's hitch it is very useful hitch for making fast to a single dolly/stud rather than using a clove hitch which is not as secure and can sometimes jamb.

 

This animation might help.

 

http://www.marinews.com/Lightermans-Hitch-730.php

 

Regards

 

Howard

 

I'm not sure that about that animation. Is the process to pull a bight under the standing line and drop it over the bollard, draw tight and then do it again the other way?

 

Richard

[Keeping Up]

I'm not sure that about that animation. Is the process to pull a bight under the standing line and drop it over the bollard, draw tight and then do it again the other way?

Yes that's the way. As with all these things, it looks a lot more difficult in the video, and looks difficult to remember. But if you just repeat the process you have described, you'll find it soon becomes natural. I was taught that 2 turns is enough for an hour, three turns is enough for evermore - I usually do 3 even if I'm just waiting to fill a lock.

 

I don't bother with the extra turn around the bollard at the start (I wasn't taught that it was needed). If you are used to starting a clove-hitch by a twist of the wrist to drop the first turn over the bollard, exactly the same start may be used for the boatman's hitch.

 

Note that you can take the free end back to the boat and tie it to a dolly or T-stud if you're mooring up. And you can undo it completely without stepping off the boat (useful if you're moored 6 feet out from the bank) by repeatedly passing the loose end under the standing part and flicking the bight off the post.

 

There is another video around which shows the same knot, but with a half-hitch added at the end. Don't do that!

[Tam & Di]

Sometimes called a lighterman's hitch ....... This animation might help.

 

http://www.marinews.com/Lightermans-Hitch-730.php

 

Regards

 

Howard

 

I don't know if it is possible to slow the animation down on that site, but at the speed I was viewing it it looked very much as if the person tying it put a half hitch into it at the end. There was certainly something a bit odd there. Another of the advantages of that hitch is it can be made as easily with a line 100' long as 15' long. You never let go of the end of the line or tuck it under anything, as the photo I posted tries to indicate.

 

If a half hitch is introduced at the end that would rather negate the simplicity of the hitch. It would introduce a possibility of it jamming and is quite unnecessary.

[Byeckerslike]

Theodora has a very long centre line. I open the top gate and get her moving forward. Just before the stern comes level with the end of the balance beam I step off with the centre line and take a urn around the iron handle on the end of the beam. I ensure that the rope is on the outside of the paddle gear and sar the gae swinging. The centre line comes tight and helps me to shut the gae.

 

Nick

 

(dodgy T key)

 

 

 

In wide locks I use the long centre line and make it fast with a clove hitch to a bollard well aft. I then leave the engine ticking over ahead to keep her alongside.

 

Nick

 

 

Hi Theo,

 

I don't know how old you are, but you are typing with a touch of Norman Collieritis )

Edited December 21, 2008 by Byeckerslike