Reginox sink

[Jon57]

42 minutes ago, LadyG said:

End of week two, nearly there

The Rangemaster basket looks good quality, not enough room for a bigger trap, 

Looks like he's forgot about the overflow pipe when positioning the sink in the worktop unless the sink need to be right over to the gable side. Hope he's left access in case it ever needs to be replaced. 

[Tracy D'arth]

All the water will fall out of that sink, he has put it in upside down. Tradesmen, Haa!

[truckcab79]

20 minutes ago, Jon57 said:

Looks like he's forgot about the overflow pipe when positioning the sink in the worktop unless the sink need to be right over to the gable side. Hope he's left access in case it ever needs to be replaced. 

Very unusual to be able to fit them (or replace them), after the sink is in so as long as it’s connected it’s fine.  

Designers of kitchen sinks and appliances have clearly never fitted any themselves.  😂

[David Mack]

1 hour ago, LadyG said:

 

 

That reduction in diameter between the trap and the skin fitting will block with food waste, and is pretty inaccessible for cleaning. Better to continue at full size to a larger skin fitting, or to fit a sink waste outlet with a 19mm hose connection 

[truckcab79]

2 minutes ago, David Mack said:

That reduction in diameter between the trap and the skin fitting will block with food waste, and is pretty inaccessible for cleaning. Better to continue at full size to a larger skin fitting, or to fit a sink waste outlet with a 19mm hose connection 

It’s not ideal but it’s all accessible. If you’re sensible then you don’t put stuff down the sink anyway. I’m fanatical about it.  As long as you keep access to that connection you’ll be able to take it off and blow / rod it though without too much hassle.  Of course a larger skin fitting would be better but I bet you haven’t got access any more.  

[Jon57]

13 minutes ago, truckcab79 said:

Very unusual to be able to fit them (or replace them), after the sink is in so as long as it’s connected it’s fine.  

Designers of kitchen sinks and appliances have clearly never fitted any themselves.  😂

True. Always said the guy who designed some appliances should try fitting them. Some would be back onto the drawing board. Hobs especially. DAMHIK. 🤬

1 hour ago, LadyG said:

End of week two, nearly there

The Rangemaster basket looks good quality, not enough room for a bigger trap, 

I would check the overflow is OK and not leaking just to be on the safe side without access it could be a problem. Easy to sort now than later if it is. 👍

[LadyG]

The clear epoxy finish to the beech worktop took five days to cure, well, enough to be fitted. That was week1. It's a very slow job, existing plumbing in the wrong place, sink does not fit standard cabinet without alteration to cabinet.

Fridge needs custom cabinet.

I knew it would be a major disruption, currently waiting for the other worktop and the new dining table coatings to cure.

I had to accept the U bend waste or lose my veg basket area which is under the sink. The sink basin is quite deep.

Edited December 20, 2023 by LadyG

[bizzard]

9 minutes ago, LadyG said:

The clear epoxy finish to the beech worktop took five days to cure, well, enough to be fitted. That was week1. It's a very slow job, existing plumbing in the wrong place, sink does not fit standard cabinet without alteration to cabinet.

Fridge needs custom cabinet.

I knew it would be a major disruption, currently waiting for the other worktop and the new dining table coatings to cure.

I had to accept the U bend waste or lose my veg basket area which is under the sink. The sink basin is quite deep.

Worse things happen in Helsinki.

[LadyG]

30 minutes ago, LadyG said:

The clear epoxy finish to the beech worktop took five days to cure, well, enough to be fitted. That was week1. It's a very slow job, existing plumbing in the wrong place, sink does not fit standard cabinet without alteration to cabinet.

Fridge needs custom cabinet.

I knew it would be a major disruption, currently waiting for the other worktop and the new dining table coatings to cure.

I had to accept the U bend waste or lose my veg basket area which is under the sink. The sink basin is quite deep.

The basket on the sink outlet should strain off the larger potato peelings, if the U bend can't cope, I'll have to keep throwing wash up water out the window, I think most things will be accessible, if necessary. I could change the design, but I'd lose my veg basket, and the whole idea is to have everything out of sight.

[bizzard]

17 minutes ago, LadyG said:

The basket on the sink outlet should strain off the larger potato peelings, if the U bend can't cope, I'll have to keep throwing wash up water out the window, I think most things will be accessible, if necessary. I could change the design, but I'd lose my veg basket, and the whole idea is to have everything out of sight.

Get a good quality hand suction sink unblocking plunger.

[truckcab79]

56 minutes ago, LadyG said:

The clear epoxy finish to the beech worktop took five days to cure, well, enough to be fitted. That was week1. It's a very slow job, existing plumbing in the wrong place, sink does not fit standard cabinet without alteration to cabinet.

Fridge needs custom cabinet.

I knew it would be a major disruption, currently waiting for the other worktop and the new dining table coatings to cure.

I had to accept the U bend waste or lose my veg basket area which is under the sink. The sink basin is quite deep.

 

All standard stuff in any kitchen (or bathroom for that matter). Pretty much everything is custom made or altered.  To be fair to the designers there are far too many variables for it to be any other way.  Any decent fitter will take it in their stride. 

Out of interest why epoxy coat the worktops?  Coating solid timber you may as well have used a laminate in that scenario. That’s what I assumed they were from the pics to be honest. 

[LadyG]

1 hour ago, truckcab79 said:

 

All standard stuff in any kitchen (or bathroom for that matter). Pretty much everything is custom made or altered.  To be fair to the designers there are far too many variables for it to be any other way.  Any decent fitter will take it in their stride. 

Out of interest why epoxy coat the worktops?  Coating solid timber you may as well have used a laminate in that scenario. That’s what I assumed they were from the pics to be honest. 

They really dont look look like laminate.

I wanted wood for the worktops,  and for the dining table, I've been adding wood throughout the boat, removing the original.

The worktop on the cooker side would be tricky to fit, it's all in one piece, but only about two inches wide behind the cooker.

[truckcab79]

35 minutes ago, LadyG said:

They really dont look look like laminate.

I wanted wood for the worktops,  and for the dining table, I've been adding wood throughout the boat, removing the original.

The worktop on the cooker side would be tricky to fit, it's all in one piece, but only about two inches wide behind the cooker.

Thats quite normal.  55mm minimum behind most hobs / cookers. You just brace it when fitting.  Although it looks like a stave worktop so no issue with cutting as a separate piece and joining.  You’d never see it and a lot less waste. 
 

Why the epoxy?   

Edited December 20, 2023 by truckcab79

[MtB]

That's a nice sink. Where did you get it?

 

😆

[truckcab79]

Just now, MtB said:

That's a nice sink. Where did you get it?

 

😆

Tap Warehouse if I recall. 😉

[LadyG]

6 minutes ago, MtB said:

That's a nice sink. Where did you get it?

 

😆

I think it was tap warehouse, about £250, its only 850mm long rather than standard 1000, my worktop is only 1.6m.

Its pretty heavy, but it looks spiffy. The P waste trap was too deep as I will have a shelved off area below the sink for the veg basket.

And it's Rangemaster Tenby !

https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/bathroom-furniture-shower-taps/306456.htm?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAvoqsBhB9EiwA9XTWGXs9VaEwVlvukiC_swboJlDyaiQBecIuhdUM3DR111JscWgio2Vm2hoCHpkQAvD_BwE

10 hours ago, Jon57 said:

Looks like he's forgot about the overflow pipe when positioning the sink in the worktop unless the sink need to be right over to the gable side. Hope he's left access in case it ever needs to be replaced. 

Overflow is reasonably accessible,  not jammed against the main cabinet side., if that is the gable side. 

[MtB]

Jeez, my jokes sure go right over the heads of some peoples!!! 

 

Thanks for your answer anyway. And I did actually think is is a nice sink! 

 

[truckcab79]

Just now, MtB said:

Jeez, my jokes sure go right over the heads of some peoples!!! 

 

Thanks for your answer anyway. And I did actually think is is a nice sink! 

 

I can’t believe it actually WAS tap warehouse.  I was kidding obviously!  😂

[LadyG]

21 minutes ago, MtB said:

Jeez, my jokes sure go right over the heads of some peoples!!! 

 

Thanks for your answer anyway. And I did actually think is is a nice sink! 

 

I'd almost forgotten about the SML saga. 

[blackrose]

I have to disagree about the use of waste traps on boats. I can't see the point at all. Waste traps are designed to prevent smells from connected sewer pipes coming back up into the accommodation. Since boats aren't connected to the mains sewer a trap isn't required and the disadvantage is a trap may create an additional area for the build up of gunge that needs to be regularly cleaned out. Also, we all know that non-closeable skin fittings need to be a certain height above the waterline and some which aren't rely on the sink itself inside the boat being higher, so as I see it the other potential problem with the installation of a trap could be a lot of unnecessary and comparatively feeble joints low down in the waste pipe. Fine for emissions of waste water but you wouldn't want to rely on those joints to keep water out in certain situations.

 

All you need is a decent diameter waste pipe (at least 1.5" ID ) from the plug hole going direct to the the same size skin fitting with no reduction. 

 

I don't get things crawling up into my sink/basin and anything dropped into a sink would have to be pretty small to get though the plug sieve. The only other disadvantage of not having a trap that I can think of is that on very windy days you get a little bit of extra ventilation, but if it bothers you just put the plug in. 

 

Anyway, after more than 20 years of living on boats without sink waste traps I won't be fitting any.  

Edited December 21, 2023 by blackrose

[Jon57]

7 hours ago, blackrose said:

I have to disagree about the use of waste traps on boats. I can't see the point at all. Waste traps are designed to prevent smells from connected sewer pipes coming back up into the accommodation. Since boats aren't connected to the mains sewer a trap isn't required and the disadvantage is a trap may create an additional area for the build up of gunge that needs to be regularly cleaned out. Also, we all know that non-closeable skin fittings need to be a certain height above the waterline and some which aren't rely on the sink itself inside the boat being higher, so as I see it the other potential problem with the installation of a trap could be a lot of unnecessary and comparatively feeble joints low down in the waste pipe. Fine for emissions of waste water but you wouldn't want to rely on those joints to keep water out in certain situations.

 

All you need is a decent diameter waste pipe (at least 1.5" ID ) from the plug hole going direct to the the same size skin fitting with no reduction. 

 

I don't get things crawling up into my sink/basin and anything dropped into a sink would have to be pretty small to get though the plug sieve. The only other disadvantage of not having a trap that I can think of is that on very windy days you get a little bit of extra ventilation, but if it bothers you just put the plug in. 

 

Anyway, after more than 20 years of living on boats without sink waste traps I won't be fitting any.  

Yep. Also I have full bore ball valves as well in case of any flooding.