12v power setup for new TV/Roku....

[robtheplod]

Hi All

 

I hope someone can help/confirm (or rip apart) my thinking here......

 

I'm finally upgrading my TV/Streaming box on the boat, mainly to get better sound using a Roku Soundbar. I've gone for devices that have 12v DC inputs but come with 240v mains adapters to make things as simple as possible. I'd like these to run off 12V rather than 240v.

 

The TV (monitor) is 12v 4A 18w requirements

The Roku is 12v 5A 60w requirements

 

I'm thinking getting a 8-40V to 12V 10A DC Voltage Stabilizer 120W which I'm thinking supplies enough juice to power both the above, so 12V input from the boat and both the above connecting on the output.... is this wise/sensible/possible! 

the item is 8-40V to 12V 10A DC Voltage Stabilizer Car Power Supply Regulator Waterproof JP | eBay

 

any flaws in my plans???!!

 

rob

[booke23]

I used one of those to power my router. It's very wise and works well and should do for you. The only comment I would make is as you are potentially drawing close to the 10A capacity of the device, it might get a bit warm so mount it somewhere where it gets a bit of air flow and isn't covered in clothing etc. (like at the back of a wardrobe) 

 

The router only draws 2 amps so in my case the power supply is always cold to touch. 

Edited November 9, 2023 by booke23

[Tracy D'arth]

If the regulators are not too expensive I would use two rather than run one very hard.

[GUMPY]

42 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

Hi All

 

I hope someone can help/confirm (or rip apart) my thinking here......

 

I'm finally upgrading my TV/Streaming box on the boat, mainly to get better sound using a Roku Soundbar. I've gone for devices that have 12v DC inputs but come with 240v mains adapters to make things as simple as possible. I'd like these to run off 12V rather than 240v.

 

The TV (monitor) is 12v 4A 18w requirements

The Roku is 12v 5A 60w requirements

 

I'm thinking getting a 8-40V to 12V 10A DC Voltage Stabilizer 120W which I'm thinking supplies enough juice to power both the above, so 12V input from the boat and both the above connecting on the output.... is this wise/sensible/possible! 

the item is 8-40V to 12V 10A DC Voltage Stabilizer Car Power Supply Regulator Waterproof JP | eBay

 

any flaws in my plans???!!

 

rob

I use one on my TV and sound bar in the caravan but the total current is only about  5amps.

 

Having said that are the power requirements you quoted from the sticker on the 230v > 12v adapters supplied with the TV/ROKU as that will be higher than required. Is the TV 4a or 18watts ? 

If the Total wattage is 78w then you should be fine. If it's 9 amps then the PSU will get warm.

 

You need to check the consumption figures!

 

 

[robtheplod]

14 minutes ago, GUMPY said:

I use one on my TV and sound bar in the caravan but the total current is only about  5amps.

 

Having said that are the power requirements you quoted from the sticker on the 230v > 12v adapters supplied with the TV/ROKU as that will be higher than required. Is the TV 4a or 18watts ? 

If the Total wattage is 78w then you should be fine. If it's 9 amps then the PSU will get warm.

 

You need to check the consumption figures!

 

 

thanks, not got the monitor yet - arriving tomorrow so will be able to confirm those readings then...

 

thanks to all replies!!!

 

[booke23]

I imagine the monitor will be 48 Watts, that's fairly typical for a small LCD panel. However it'll only draw that at maximum brightness, in real world use it won't be using that much. Same with the soundbar....in real use it'll only use a fraction of it's rated wattage unless you like to have it cranked to 11 all the time!

 

[robtheplod]

This is all now done. Works really well but had an interesting thing occur - well interesting for me, so here goes!

 

The regulator connects to the boat via a cigarette lighter plug (you see where this is going!). We were watching TV and at random times the Roku would freeze/reboot. it seemed to coincide with adverts so just thought dodgy stream.... anyway it got worse and then wouldn't even load Netflix... interesting.....

I measured the voltage going into the regulator and it was 2.4v! - voltage out was still 12.4v so looked further... The fuse then blew... looked at the Cigarette lighter and it was hot to touch - obviously crap connection causing drop in voltage hence increased current and blown fuse (said confidently - im assuming this is correct as it makes sense!). Cooled it, cleaned it and did a twisty thing when putting it back in and its fine - input to regulator now normal...... i hear regularly these plugs are rubbish and now have first hand knowledge of that!

 

Edited December 11, 2023 by robtheplod

[Alan de Enfield]

22 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

i hear regularly these plugs are rubbish

 

The 'Red plastic' ones that are about 99p on ebay are dangerous.

You can buy good quality ones that incorporate a fuse for "a couple of quid" or very high quality ones used by the Automotive OEMs You can get up to 20 amp rated plugs and sockets - obviously you need a quality socket as well as the plug.

 

RS PRO Panel Mount, 15A Cigarette Lighter Socket | RS (rs-online.com)

 

Hella Plug - 12 / 24 Volt | 20 Amp | ROADKING.co.uk

 

12-24v Universal Female Hella(Din) Socket (Alloy) | eBay

Edited December 11, 2023 by Alan de Enfield

[nicknorman]

On 09/11/2023 at 16:28, robtheplod said:

Hi All

 

I hope someone can help/confirm (or rip apart) my thinking here......

 

I'm finally upgrading my TV/Streaming box on the boat, mainly to get better sound using a Roku Soundbar. I've gone for devices that have 12v DC inputs but come with 240v mains adapters to make things as simple as possible. I'd like these to run off 12V rather than 240v.

 

The TV (monitor) is 12v 4A 18w requirements

The Roku is 12v 5A 60w requirements

 

I'm thinking getting a 8-40V to 12V 10A DC Voltage Stabilizer 120W which I'm thinking supplies enough juice to power both the above, so 12V input from the boat and both the above connecting on the output.... is this wise/sensible/possible! 

the item is 8-40V to 12V 10A DC Voltage Stabilizer Car Power Supply Regulator Waterproof JP | eBay

 

any flaws in my plans???!!

 

rob

Something not quite right with the figures, Tv 12v 4A is not 18w!

[robtheplod]

11 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

Something not quite right with the figures, Tv 12v 4A is not 18w!

does this give better info?

 

[Sailbadthesinner]

Perhaps a silly question. Why not run them sraight off the boar's 12V supply?

Maybe concerned about getting a "clean" power supply but unless you are the type of hi-fi enthusiast who uses gold cables and connectors, but then you wouldn't be using a cheap 12V cigar plug and socket.

[Tony Brooks]

2 minutes ago, Sailbadthesinner said:

Perhaps a silly question. Why not run them sraight off the boar's 12V supply?

Maybe concerned about getting a "clean" power supply but unless you are the type of hi-fi enthusiast who uses gold cables and connectors, but then you wouldn't be using a cheap 12V cigar plug and socket.

 

If either device was not designed to cope with up to close to 15V charging voltages plus any voltage surges caused by inductive loads turning on and off (water pump) then the equipment could be damaged. maybe not immediately, but after being exposed to the overvoltage for a period. Remember, equipment designed for the home will probably be powered by a stabilised "wall wart" type plug. Doing as you suggests will probably work for a while, but if it does fail then the equipment   needs to be replaced. Using your own stabilised at 12V supply is far safer.

[blackrose]

11 minutes ago, Sailbadthesinner said:

Perhaps a silly question. Why not run them sraight off the boar's 12V supply?

Maybe concerned about getting a "clean" power supply but unless you are the type of hi-fi enthusiast who uses gold cables and connectors, but then you wouldn't be using a cheap 12V cigar plug and socket.

 

I was thinking the same thing but on the basis that anything designed for 12v would already have its own voltage regulation? Or perhaps that's wrong? But if it's designed for 12v it must be for cars, caravans, boats, etc, where you'd expect charging/discharging and fluctuations in voltage. So I don't really understand why you needed an external voltage regulator. Belt & braces?

Edited December 11, 2023 by blackrose

[Col_T]

If an item is sold as needing 12v, you would hope that it has inbuilt voltage regulation. It might be unwise to assume that it actually has.

[Alan de Enfield]

18 minutes ago, Sailbadthesinner said:

Perhaps a silly question

 

If you don't know the answer then its not a silly question.

 

A :

A lot of modern electronic 12v 'stuff' is manufactured to use a stabilised 12v supply. If you plug directly into a cigarette lighter which is connected to the batteries then your pieces of electronic, expensive, equipment can go 'poof' and emit the magic smoke.

When you batteries are charging, or even when the engine is running it can see voltages as high as 15v.

Edited December 11, 2023 by Alan de Enfield

[blackrose]

6 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

A :

A lot of modern electronic 12v 'stuff' is manufactured to use a stabilised 12v supply. 

 

And therefore (in my limited experience) it tends to have its own built in voltage regulation.

 

Everything I've ever bought like TVs, car radios/CD player, etc, that was designed for 12v has so far...

Edited December 11, 2023 by blackrose

[Alan de Enfield]

Just now, blackrose said:

 

And therefore (in my limited experience) it tends to have its own built in voltage regulation.

 

Everything I've ever bought that was designed for 12v has so far...

 

When I bought a 12v TV for the boat it came with a cigarette lighter cable and, in the middle of the lead, was a 'matchbox' sized box, the wire then continued to the 12v plug that fitted into the TV. 

It turned out to be a voltage stabiliser, so, it was supplied with one, but not integral - and - I had thought to throw it away and just use a the correct length piece of cable with the correct plugs, but then thought why ?

[robtheplod]

Neither of these bits of kit are designed for running off 12v - they are home devices that happen to have mains->12v adapter plugs, so i assumed this would meant they needed 12v regulation to be safe if running off fluctuating 12v..

Edited December 11, 2023 by robtheplod

[Tony Brooks]

Just now, Alan de Enfield said:

 

When I bought a 12v TV for the boat it came with a cigarette lighter cable and, in the middle of the lead, was a 'matchbox' sized box, the wire then continued to the 12v plug that fitted into the TV. 

It turned out to be a voltage stabiliser, so, it was supplied with one, but not integral - and - I had thought to throw it away and just use a the correct length piece of cable with the correct plugs, but then thought why ?

 

Such boxes were also used on early 12V DC CRT TVs to contain a diode bridge so connecting in reverse polarity would not damage anything.

[GUMPY]

All of my PSU are wired through a switch and fuse direct to the 12v supply no nasty 12v plugs and sockets in my domain.

 

[Tony Brooks]

1 minute ago, robtheplod said:

Neither of these bits of kit are designed for running off 12v - they are home devices that have their mains->12v adapter plugs, so i assumed this would meant they needed 12v regulation to be safe.....

 

I agree with you, unless you know the detailed design there is no way to be sure there is an internal voltage stabiliser. Better safe and a few quid down than sorry and a hundred quid down.

[blackrose]

18 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

Neither of these bits of kit are designed for running off 12v - they are home devices that happen to have mains->12v adapter plugs, so i assumed this would meant they needed 12v regulation to be safe if running off fluctuating 12v..

 

Ah I see, I misunderstood. I thought they were dual voltage appliances.

[booke23]

20 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

Neither of these bits of kit are designed for running off 12v - they are home devices that happen to have mains->12v adapter plugs, so i assumed this would meant they needed 12v regulation to be safe if running off fluctuating 12v..

 

I totally agree with your approach. If it was a 12v caravan TV it would be fine but I do find a lot of home electronics these days happen to be 12v...my freesat box and router both are and were never designed to run from an unregulated automotive type 12v supply.

[magnetman]

38 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Such boxes were also used on early 12V DC CRT TVs to contain a diode bridge so connecting in reverse polarity would not damage anything.

 

I remember killing a black and white 12v telly on the boat by reverse polarity. It was a fatal error. 

 

Black and white tellies were great. Specially for snooker. Really concentrates the mind. 

 

Also very low power consumption. I had a few and really liked them. 

 

Shame they don't work any more. 

Not had a telly for about 20 yars now. 

 

Must try watching snooker in black and white on streaming some time. 

 

 

 

 

[Alan de Enfield]

20 minutes ago, magnetman said:

Must try watching snooker in black and white on streaming some time. 

 

Ted Lowe - TV Snooker commentator :

 

Lowe uttered the occasional on-air gaffe, one of his most famous quotes being, "and for those of you who are watching in black and white, the pink is next to the green." He once told viewers that Fred Davies struggling to rest one leg on the edge of the table in order to reach a long shot, "is getting on a bit and is having trouble getting his leg over".