Anyone know of an anode welder around Shropshire?

[Tony1]

 

My boat is overdue a blacking and there is a 1 week dry dock slot at Ellesmere that I can use (if I feel up to blacking it myself).

BUT I think it will likely need new anodes, so before I book the slot I need to know if there are any boaty welders/fixers who are able to travel to Ellesmere and weld on some anodes for me. 

Does anyone know of any likely people for the job? 

If not I'll book it to be hauled out at Aqueduct in the summer.  

I considered Tattenhall, but heard a bit of gossip that I won't go into, but which put me off a bit. 

[ditchcrawler]

Is that the Port or Llangollen?

 

[MtB]

Have you asked the dry dock people? This must come up constantly and I bet they can suggest someone.

 

 

[Tony1]

13 minutes ago, MtB said:

Have you asked the dry dock people? This must come up constantly and I bet they can suggest someone.

 

 

 

That's a great idea, they will have met loads of local boat repair folks.

I was going to wait till the summer at Aqueduct, but its outdoors and there's no guarantee of getting a dry week, and at least in the dry dock you are covered- although it will still be pretty chilly in late Feb, so there is a query in my mind about how quickly the blacking or 2 pack will cure.

 

 

14 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Is that the Port or Llangollen?

 

 

 

Llangollen at the moment

Edited January 8, 2023 by Tony1

[magnetman]

I don't know if it is a good idea but you can stick anodes on with sikaflex if the steel is cleaned down well enough. I'd be tempted to be watching the welding process happening. 

Reason I mention it is I have twice had anodes out of locks with the magnet which showed no signs of having been welded to the boat. 

[LadyG]

I'd certainly look at the data sheet for your two pack, and maybe check if there is a winter additive, are you going to be heated, if not how is it going to dry after washing? I'd rather wait three months to be honest.

Personally I'd want someone on hand to power wash, and also use a cupped brass wire brush to prep the surface, you don't really know what you are going to find. If it has been blacked with bitumen that has to come off.

I seem to remember it took more than five days to get my hull done, the first day was haul out and wash, second day prep, then two or three coats, then two days cure.

Anodes and touchups also need to be factored in, but I was glad of the extra days, I think it was eight. You can take the opportunity to do the gunwales and even signwriting.

Edited January 8, 2023 by LadyG

[Alan de Enfield]

31 minutes ago, Tony1 said:

 

My boat is overdue a blacking and there is a 1 week dry dock slot at Ellesmere that I can use (if I feel up to blacking it myself).

BUT I think it will likely need new anodes, so before I book the slot I need to know if there are any boaty welders/fixers who are able to travel to Ellesmere and weld on some anodes for me. 

Does anyone know of any likely people for the job? 

If not I'll book it to be hauled out at Aqueduct in the summer.  

I considered Tattenhall, but heard a bit of gossip that I won't go into, but which put me off a bit. 

 

 

Just a thought for you :

 

I was talking to a boat yard and they said something to me of interest :

 

They have taken to actually welding a bolt onto the NB hull, the standard anodes can have holes / slots on the straps (which are normally welded onto the hull) (others would need bolt holes drilling before mounting) by having a bolt welded onto the Hull you can have DIY anode fitting - even whilst in the water, just get in the water with a spanner and 'jobs a good un'

 

I dont know why I never gave it any thought as it is standard practice on GRP boats (but using circular anodes)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anodes with welding tabs

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 8, 2023 by Alan de Enfield

[Tony1]

5 minutes ago, magnetman said:

I don't know if it is a good idea but you can stick anodes on with sikaflex if the steel is cleaned down well enough. I'd be tempted to be watching the welding process happening. 

Reason I mention it is I have twice had anodes out of locks with the magnet which showed no signs of having been welded to the boat. 

 

Cheers- I know sikaflex is amazing stuff, but my concern would be that you need the anode to be in contact with the steel, right? I'm guessing the sikaflex would act as an insulator maybe? 

 

 

[blackrose]

6 minutes ago, magnetman said:

I don't know if it is a good idea but you can stick anodes on with sikaflex if the steel is cleaned down well enough. I'd be tempted to be watching the welding process happening. 

Reason I mention it is I have twice had anodes out of locks with the magnet which showed no signs of having been welded to the boat. 

 

Surely sikaflex would represent a non-electrical contact between the anode and boat? Also however clean the steel it would only be a matter of time before growth and possibly corrosion between the two surfaces pushed the anode off. They're probably the ones you've been finding! 🤣

[Tony1]

1 minute ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

Just a thought for you :

 

I was talking to a boat yard and they said something to me of interest :

 

They have taken to actually welding a bolt onto the NB hull, the standard anodes can have holes / slots on the straps (which are normally welded onto the hull) (others would need bolt holes drilling before mounting) by having a bolt welded onto the Hull you can have DIY anode fitting - even whilst in the water, just get in the water with a spanner and 'jobs a good un'

 

I dont know why I never gave it any thought as it is standard practice on GRP boats (but using circular anodes)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anodes with welding tabs

 

 

 

Thanks- and yes it sounds like a great idea, but my understanding is that you want the anodes spread along the hull a bit, not just in one spot? 

 

 

[blackrose]

2 minutes ago, Tony1 said:

 

Cheers- I know sikaflex is amazing stuff, but my concern would be that you need the anode to be in contact with the steel, right? I'm guessing the sikaflex would act as an insulator maybe? 

 

 

 

Exactly

[ditchcrawler]

15 minutes ago, Tony1 said:

 

That's a great idea, they will have met loads of local boat repair folks.

I was going to wait till the summer at Aqueduct, but its outdoors and there's no guarantee of getting a dry week, and at least in the dry dock you are covered- although it will still be pretty chilly in late Feb, so there is a query in my mind about how quickly the blacking or 2 pack will cure.

 

 

But would they, its a CRT dock isn't it

[Tony1]

Just now, ditchcrawler said:

But would they, its a CRT dock isn't it

 

Yes its CRT, but I'm hoping they will have met the visiting tradesmen, and maybe have a memory of some useful contact names that I can maybe look up 

[Alan de Enfield]

1 minute ago, Tony1 said:

 

Thanks- and yes it sounds like a great idea, but my understanding is that you want the anodes spread along the hull a bit, not just in one spot? 

 

 

 

You weld the bolts in the same places you put the weld-on anodes.

 

You don't have then on the side of the Hull (either welded or bolt on) as they will be knocked off the 1st time you come alonside a wall.) you have the anodes at the bow and stern so they do not get hit.

 

 

Anode positions on our NB

 

 

 

[blackrose]

4 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

 

Just a thought for you :

 

I was talking to a boat yard and they said something to me of interest :

 

They have taken to actually welding a bolt onto the NB hull, the standard anodes can have holes / slots on the straps (which are normally welded onto the hull) (others would need bolt holes drilling before mounting) by having a bolt welded onto the Hull you can have DIY anode fitting - even whilst in the water, just get in the water with a spanner and 'jobs a good un'

 

I dont know why I never gave it any thought as it is standard practice on GRP boats (but using circular anodes)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anodes with welding tabs

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whether you weld a bolt to the hull or an anode to the hull you still need a welder.

 

DIY anode fitting while in the water is of no real advantage since they're only being changed once a decade and you'll need to be out of the water at some point anyway.

[rusty69]

Just now, blackrose said:

 

Whether you weld a bolt to the hull or an anode to the hull you still need a welder.

 

DIY anode fitting while in the water is of no real advantage since they're only being changed once a decade and you'll need to be out of the water at some point anyway.

Ours are bolt on. The last surveyor advised welding was superior. 

[Alan de Enfield]

Just now, blackrose said:

Whether you weld a bolt to the hull or an anode to the hull you still need a welder.

 

Only the one time.

 

If your anodes need replacing inbetween blacking you can DIY with no lift out costs.

If you have epoxied the hull and its going to last many years between inspection, you can DIY with no lift out costs

[Tony1]

9 minutes ago, LadyG said:

I'd certainly look at the data sheet for your two pack, and maybe check if there is a winter additive, are you going to be heated, if not how is it going to dry after washing? I'd rather wait three months to be honest.

 

The CRT guy who manages the site said there is a local hire shop who can hire me an industrial gas blown air heater plus a pressure washer.

Thing is, the dry dock alone costs about £500 for the week, plus maybe £150 to hire the dryer, washer, and paints etc.

And last time I called them, Nantwich marina were doing the haul-out, blacking and everything for £800. 

 

 

[PCSB]

22 minutes ago, Tony1 said:

 

...

I was going to wait till the summer at Aqueduct, but its outdoors and there's no guarantee of getting a dry week, and at least in the dry dock you are covered- although it will still be pretty chilly in late Feb, so there is a query in my mind about how quickly the blacking or 2 pack will cure.

 

There is a winter grade of Jotun 90 (2 pack) that would/should be fine in Feb fwiw.

[ditchcrawler]

7 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

You weld the bolts in the same places you put the weld-on anodes.

 

You don't have then on the side of the Hull (either welded or bolt on) as they will be knocked off the 1st time you come alonside a wall.) you have the anodes at the bow and stern so they do not get hit.

 

 

Anode positions on our NB

 

 

 

What protects the middle section, or is that like the base plate and doesn't rot

[magnetman]

I should add that my sikaflex comment was meant to point out that if you are getting a boatyard to weld on some anodes you want to be seeing the welding happening. I did mention this in the post. Point is that there will be occasional cases where they don't weld them on. Unless that is a previous case of someone not spotting a joke on an internet forum. 

 

Sorry for the confusion ! 

Edited January 8, 2023 by magnetman

[LadyG]

12 minutes ago, Tony1 said:

 

The CRT guy who manages the site said there is a local hire shop who can hire me an industrial gas blown air heater plus a pressure washer.

Thing is, the dry dock alone costs about £500 for the week, plus maybe £150 to hire the dryer, washer, and paints etc.

And last time I called them, Nantwich marina were doing the haul-out, blacking and everything for £800. 

 

 

Would that be two pack, (it's more expensive than bitumen), I'd be inclined to ring them again, it's quite a task getting everything organised if you are on you own, not so bad if you have a van. I suggest you cost it up more carefully, I seem to think my two pack was £80 per twin pack, and I used two, I think, but I'm not sure. In fact I got a kit from SML paints which saved me £50, good rollers. I still have the personal coverall, which washed up nicely. It's worth looking at their site even if you buy elsewhere, I've no connection, just satisfied customer. They provide technical advice. 

When the boat is out it might be a good idea to check other things. 

Do you have a bow thruster?

 

Edited January 8, 2023 by LadyG

[Alan de Enfield]

1 minute ago, ditchcrawler said:

What protects the middle section, or is that like the base plate and doesn't rot

 

Never had 'side mounted' anodes on any NB.

 

I know some manufacturers tried making 'pockets' in the side of the Hull to set back the anodes, but it didn't work a) because Anodes work on 'line of sight' and b) it resulted in 'over activity' in a small space and 'burning off' all the coating in the 'pocket'

[Tony1]

1 minute ago, LadyG said:

Would that be two pack, (it's more expensive than bitumen), I'd be inclined to ring them again, it's quite a task getting everything organised if you are on you own, not so bad if you have a van.

 

 

Nantwich was just using blacking, and to be fair it was well over a year ago, its probably much more now. 

I do have a couple of local contacts who could transport stuff, or I could hire a vehicle, but the costs all need to be factored in.

If it turns out I only save about £300 by doing it myself, I'd let them do the job. But if  I save £500, then I'll definitely DIY it. 

 

 

 

 

 

[ditchcrawler]

Maybe someone from Whittington Wharf would come and do it Whittington Wharf Narrowboats| Llangollen Canal Holiday Boat Hire (whittington-wharf.com)  Blackwater are closer but I don't know if they have them sort of people there Services – Blackwater Meadow Marina