Anyone know of an anode welder around Shropshire?

[Rob-M]

12 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Never had 'side mounted' anodes on any NB.

 

I know some manufacturers tried making 'pockets' in the side of the Hull to set back the anodes, but it didn't work a) because Anodes work on 'line of sight' and b) it resulted in 'over activity' in a small space and 'burning off' all the coating in the 'pocket'

Quite common now to have slim anodes along the sides of narrowboats.  Things have moved on in recent years.

[Tracy D'arth]

13 hours ago, Tony1 said:

 

My boat is overdue a blacking and there is a 1 week dry dock slot at Ellesmere that I can use (if I feel up to blacking it myself).

BUT I think it will likely need new anodes, so before I book the slot I need to know if there are any boaty welders/fixers who are able to travel to Ellesmere and weld on some anodes for me. 

Does anyone know of any likely people for the job? 

If not I'll book it to be hauled out at Aqueduct in the summer.  

I considered Tattenhall, but heard a bit of gossip that I won't go into, but which put me off a bit. 

Why not drill and bolt the new ones to the steel  tails on the remains of the old ones?

[Clanky]

Try Stuart Hodge 07376570890, he’s based near Market Drayton or Barnaby Reeve https://www.northshropshirenarrowboatservices.co.uk/ 

[Tony1]

2 minutes ago, Clanky said:

Try Stuart Hodge 07376570890, he’s based near Market Drayton or Barnaby Reeve https://www.northshropshirenarrowboatservices.co.uk/ 

 

 

Thanks a lot, I'll try them. I've decided to wait until I'm off the Llangollen, but if I go the DIY route I'll need a mobile welder for the anodes, and hopefully one or two other little jobs. 

 

[Tony1]

41 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

Why not drill and bolt the new ones to the steel  tails on the remains of the old ones?

 

Thanks Tracy, that sounds like a great DIY solution that even I could do

I would still prefer welding if its an option, but I'll see how high the prices are for the job. And at least I now have a good fall back DIY option using bolts if something goes wrong. 

 

[rusty69]

19 hours ago, Tony1 said:

 

 

I think this is why I'm tempted to wait until I'm off the Llangollen. There are probably going to be odd unforeseen bits of gear that I might need if I DIY it, like these cupped brass wire wheels, or extra brushes, or masks- who knows what. And I'll only have it out of the water for a week, so I'll probably need to get to a supplier quickly if I find that I need something urgently.  And the useful suppliers (and my postal address) are much quicker to get to when I'm in Cheshire than in Shropshire. 

I'm hoping that a good wire brushing of the hull will do some of the job that sand blasting would have.

There are also some fibrous grinder discs that are designed to remove paint very quickly- they might be worth a try. 

 

Have you decided which epoxy coating you are using yet?

 

I am currently investigating the DIY route for our boat this year. Some products are likely to be more suitable for applying over surfaces that have previously had bitumen based products than others.

[Tony1]

26 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Have you decided which epoxy coating you are using yet?

 

I am currently investigating the DIY route for our boat this year. Some products are likely to be more suitable for applying over surfaces that have previously had bitumen based products than others.

 

I haven't done any research tbh, although this primer kit mentioned by Lady G looks decent, and it is designed for use where there is already some blacking in situ.

 

https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/offers/epoxykits/Epoxykit50

 

At £166 for my 50ft boat (plus the top coat) it seems reasonable, although I'll need some further products for the base plate. 

I like the idea of getting almost all the gear you need in one purchase, as I'll only get transport support offered on probably a single day of the operation.

 

 

 

Edited January 9, 2023 by Tony1

[rusty69]

1 minute ago, Tony1 said:

 

I haven't done any research tbh, although this kit mentioned by Lady G looks decent, and it is designed for use where there is already some blacking in situ.

 

https://www.smlmarinepaints.co.uk/offers/epoxykits/Epoxykit50

 

At £166 for my 50ft boat it seems reasonable, although I'll need some further products for the base plate. 

I like the idea of getting almost all the gear you need in one purchase, as I'll only get transport support offered one probably a single day of the operation.

 

 

 

I've used SML paints before. I can recommend them, though, not that particular product which I haven't used. I did discuss it with them on the phone last time the boat was due though, and decided that a week may be a bit on the short time to get the job done, and the stuff cured properly, so opted for bitumen instead.

 

This time we are booked out for two week, so should be plenty of time,fingers crossed. Though being outside, anything could happen on the day.Last time it rained for the first 3 days

[Tony1]

8 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

I've used SML paints before. I can recommend them, though, not that particular product which I haven't used. I did discuss it with them on the phone last time the boat was due though, and decided that a week may be a bit on the short time to get the job done, and the stuff cured properly, so opted for bitumen instead.

 

This time we are booked out for two week, so should be plenty of time,fingers crossed. Though being outside, anything could happen on the day.Last time it rained for the first 3 days

 

This is where the likes of Ellesmere dry dock starts to look like decent value. 

With a covered work area, if you do the job in June or July you can probably get it done within a week with a bit of help. 

If you have to book two weeks at a cheaper marina because you're outdoors and it might rain, the 2 week price will probably go above the Ellesmere 1-week price, although at Ellesmere you do need to factor in the hire of the pressure washer for 1 or 2 days, whereas in many marinas you'll get the washer included in the price.  

But the issue at Ellesmere is that its that bit further away from local contacts and people who might be willing to help, whereas at Aqueduct for example, its less hassle for them to reach me. 

 

Edited January 9, 2023 by Tony1

[rusty69]

1 minute ago, Tony1 said:

 

This is where the likes of Ellesmere dry dock starts to look like decent value. 

With a covered work area, if you do the job in June or July you can probably get it done within a week with a bit of help. 

If you have to book two weeks at a cheaper marina because you're outdoors and it might rain, the 2 week price will probably go above the Ellesmere 1-week price, although at Ellesmere you do need to factor in the hire of the pressure washer for 1 or 2 days, whereas in many marinas you'll get the washer included in the price.  

 

 

That's true, though often the second week is less expensive than the first.

 

We have only been lucky enough to do ours in a covered dry dock once in the 8 or 9 times we have done our boat, which at the time turned out to be one of the hottest and driest weeks in history. Not what you want beneath a polytunnel. Still, if we'd done it outside that week, I can almost guaranteed it would have been wet and cold.

[Tony1]

10 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

That's true, though often the second week is less expensive than the first.

 

We have only been lucky enough to do ours in a covered dry dock once in the 8 or 9 times we have done our boat, which at the time turned out to be one of the hottest and driest weeks in history. Not what you want beneath a polytunnel. Still, if we'd done it outside that week, I can almost guaranteed it would have been wet and cold.

 

No doubt about it, without a guarantee of some extra muscle to speed things up, and if working outdoors, two weeks has to be the way to go.

I've heard a couple of tales about marina/boatyard staff applying the final coat the night before the boat is going back into the water, and boats having to go back and get it re-done, so there is a part of me that would prefer to DIY it. 

But I suspect my arms are not currently ready for the task of getting everything done in a week, especially if I do something with the baseplate. 

I think your 2 week plan is the way to go.

 

[beerbeerbeerbeerbeer]

I have a theory that it’s the negatively charged energy from the boat owner fretting and worrying which does the bad stuff.

 

Practise Feng Shui and harmonise oneself with ones surroundings.

If there ain’t a problem, don’t imagine one into being.

 

 

 

and drink more beer 👍

[Slim]

On 08/01/2023 at 19:52, Alan de Enfield said:

 

You weld the bolts in the same places you put the weld-on anodes.

 

You don't have then on the side of the Hull (either welded or bolt on) as they will be knocked off the 1st time you come alonside a wall.) you have the anodes at the bow and stern so they do not get hit.

 

 

Anode positions on our NB

 

 

 

Strange, I've had amidship anodes on my nb for the last 20 odd years and never had an issue.