Beta 43 charging

[dave mackie]

When I started my engine today one of the charge lights stayed on and the volt  guage didn't register any voltage, also rev counter did not work. Then after a short moment with engine running the charge light went out, volt meter registered volts and rev counter started to work. Any thoughts. 

[Machpoint005]

My Beta 43 did the same. It's cold weather and/or the multipin cable connector. You'll find it somewhere on top of the gearbox area. Pull it apart, clean and dry it,  plug it together again. 

 

Once it all works, cable-tie the connector assembly firmly together.

 

Worked for me.

 

 

 

 

Edited December 26, 2022 by Machpoint005

[Tony Brooks]

The majority of alternators need feeding a certain voltage and a certain number of revs to energies. If sufficient of either is not present it will not energize and as the rev counter counts pulses form one phase of the alternator if it does not energize the symptoms will be exactly as you describe.

 

If the engine has not been run for a while and it behaves tomorrow I would suspect low revs for a short while . It never hurts to do what Matchpoint005 advises because those multi-plugs are a real pain at times.

 

If it does it again give the engine a few extra revs and if it immediately charges its probably fine.

 

 

[dave mackie]

Cheers Tony 👍

[Machpoint005]

Yes, I wondered too about the "give it the beans" method -- it often works.

 

 

[dave mackie]

Cheers Machpoint005 👍

[nicknorman]

1 hour ago, dave mackie said:

When I started my engine today one of the charge lights stayed on and the volt  guage didn't register any voltage, also rev counter did not work. Then after a short moment with engine running the charge light went out, volt meter registered volts and rev counter started to work. Any thoughts. 

“Voltage gauge didn’t register any voltage” - as in no voltage at all, or no increase in voltage from around 12.5v after start?

Edited December 26, 2022 by nicknorman

[dave mackie]

No voltage at all , then after engine running for a moment it came to life 

[Steve56]

Sounds like a faulty connection somewhere. If you have voltage in the battery, which you must have done to start engine then as soon as you turn ignition on the voltmeter should give a reading. This would happen regardless of whether the alternator was charging or not.

[Tony Brooks]

6 hours ago, dave mackie said:

No voltage at all , then after engine running for a moment it came to life 

 

Agree with Nick now, bad connection, now you confirm the voltmeter stayed at zero but I can't think where it would be unless the other warning lamps and any gauges stayed off and never moved. However the fact the charge light came on but did not go out rather complicates things.

[nicknorman]

I’m struggling a bit to work out the failure mode that would cause the symptoms described. The feed from the ignition switch goes to a big junction of wires behind the panel, this feeds all the things on the panel that need power, including the volt meter and warning lights. So you would think that if the voltmeter wasn’t working, there would be no warning lights. But of course there are 2 alternators and 2 warning lights and which one was illuminated is not specified.

 

I tried to find a way that, with the panel unpowered, the domestic alternator could bring a light on by back-feeding current but with the relay within the panel unpowered, the domestic alternator D+ is disconnected.

 

So I think I’ll have to stick with “a bad connection somewhere”! If you had said the voltmeter was reading 12v or so then it would be a simple case of a bad connection in the wiring harness and the engine alternator lost the +12v that tells it to start working (and of course it is that alternator that operates the tacho).

 

So as proposed I would check the multi-way connector somewhere in the vicinity of the engine. If it happens again and persists I would try moving the ignition switch a bit to see if it is a bad connection there,

[MtB]

30 minutes ago, nicknorman said:

I’m struggling a bit to work out the failure mode that would cause the symptoms described.

 

 

There is always the possibility the OP has mis-remembered the exact details of the mode of failure. When it all starts working unexpectedly it can be hard to remember the details of what the panel was showing, accurately.

 

The way it self-healed shortly after the engine started, does rather suggest the vibration from the engine running rattled a poor connection into conducting.

[ditchcrawler]

Not really thought too much about this, its still early for me. How about after starting the engine it "ignition" switch didn't go back to the right spot so isolating the 12 volts from the panel, the engine vibration made it click back after a few moments.  Have a think and rip the idea to bits as I have to go now.

[Tony Brooks]

29 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Not really thought too much about this, its still early for me. How about after starting the engine it "ignition" switch didn't go back to the right spot so isolating the 12 volts from the panel, the engine vibration made it click back after a few moments.  Have a think and rip the idea to bits as I have to go now.

 

I have certainly know ignition switches with tired springs in them, As they work by brass tracks and a brass disk with bumps on it, it could even be a dirty/burned track.

[nicknorman]

2 hours ago, MtB said:

 

There is always the possibility the OP has mis-remembered the exact details of the mode of failure. When it all starts working unexpectedly it can be hard to remember the details of what the panel was showing, accurately.

 

Something I thought likely but was too polite to say! Instead I just hinted!

[JoeC]

On 26/12/2022 at 21:44, Machpoint005 said:

My Beta 43 did the same. It's cold weather and/or the multipin cable connector. You'll find it somewhere on top of the gearbox area. Pull it apart, clean and dry it,  plug it together again. 

 

Once it all works, cable-tie the connector assembly firmly together.

 

 

 

 

Beta say to put Vaseline in the socket before connecting plug. Some boats have an extended lead so there could be another connector along the way.

[Machpoint005]

5 hours ago, JoeC said:

Beta say to put Vaseline in the socket before connecting plug. Some boats have an extended lead so there could be another connector along the way.

 

...vaseline which then liquefies and runs out when the engine gets hot, and makes a mess all over the clutch housing? 

 

[Sea Dog]

20 hours ago, Machpoint005 said:

 

...vaseline which then liquefies and runs out when the engine gets hot, and makes a mess all over the clutch housing? 

 

Well I can't speak for all Beta 43 installations, but my own multi plug is up by the control panel - nowhere near anything that gets hot. If the OP's is similar, vaseline would be fine.

[Tony Brooks]

2 minutes ago, Sea Dog said:

Well I can't speak for all Beta 43 installations, but my own multi plug is up by the control panel - nowhere near anything that gets hot. If the OP's is similar, vaseline would be fine.

 

I suspect that is either the second one that has been mentioned or your engine has been rewired. Normally the Beta multiplug is low down beside the engine on the right hand side (starboard). It can be partially hidden by other items.

[Sea Dog]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I suspect that is either the second one that has been mentioned or your engine has been rewired. Normally the Beta multiplug is low down beside the engine on the right hand side (starboard). It can be partially hidden by other items.

Ah yes, highly likely to be an extension to the panel from there as opposed to Beta fitting a long loom. That connector would be deliberately sited in a safe place by Beta though, so also unlikely to be in danger of severe heat. Point being, @JoeC's post saying Beta recommend vaseline in that connector is valid, as opposed to it causing trails molten Vas.

[GUMPY]

2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I suspect that is either the second one that has been mentioned or your engine has been rewired. Normally the Beta multiplug is low down beside the engine on the right hand side (starboard). It can be partially hidden by other items.

Just behind the RH end of the gearbox oil cooler 

[Tony Brooks]

34 minutes ago, Loddon said:

Just behind the RH end of the gearbox oil cooler 

 

 

I think I have seen them alongside the engine bearer angle iron tucked away on the inside.

[ditchcrawler]

2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

I think I have seen them alongside the engine bearer angle iron tucked away on the inside.

That is where mine is, its in a clip, but the previous owner may have done that.

[GUMPY]

Mine is a very early Beta 2203, so early it predates the printed circuit diagram all mine are hand drawn