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Floor access hatch & floor type


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Hi All

 

We're about to start on the inside of the boat, which means removing the tatty carpet and putting in wooden/laminate flooring. The base is just chipboard sheet type material (hopefully better quality than just chipboard!). I'm planning on access to the bilge dotted along the way and thought maybe go one step more and put in access hatches which might double as underfloor storage etc... not fussed on them being 'invisible' - maybe make a feature of them? I've had a look around but not been successful in finding a suitable product - do other have these and if so any pointers as to a supplier?   if i can't find one i may have to construct something but this probably wont look as smart....

 

also the flooring.... is there any merit in real wood flooring over laminate?

 

thanks as ever!!!!

 

 

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3 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

Hi All

 

We're about to start on the inside of the boat, which means removing the tatty carpet and putting in wooden/laminate flooring. The base is just chipboard sheet type material (hopefully better quality than just chipboard!). I'm planning on access to the bilge dotted along the way and thought maybe go one step more and put in access hatches which might double as underfloor storage etc... not fussed on them being 'invisible' - maybe make a feature of them? I've had a look around but not been successful in finding a suitable product - do other have these and if so any pointers as to a supplier?   if i can't find one i may have to construct something but this probably wont look as smart....

 

also the flooring.... is there any merit in real wood flooring over laminate?

 

thanks as ever!!!!

 

 

If you put real wood over laminate surely all the doors will need to be cut down as you have raised the floor. Also if you do get water in how will it get to the bilge as the laminate will stop it and then the wood will slowly go rotten 

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1 minute ago, Tonka said:

If you put real wood over laminate surely all the doors will need to be cut down as you have raised the floor. Also if you do get water in how will it get to the bilge as the laminate will stop it and then the wood will slowly go rotten 

no we'll be using laminate or wood, not both....  the boat has a chipboard type base and whatever we choose will go over it. I intend to get to the bilge by the access hatches as per above.. 

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59 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

I'm planning on access to the bilge dotted along the way and thought maybe go one step more and put in access hatches which might double as underfloor storage etc... n

 

Have you bee able to investigate what is under those bits of flooring where you plan to build access hatches?  There has to be a reasonable chance that in some of the places the bilge will be filled by ballast, maybe something like paving slabs or brick.  I that's the case, you can't make storage of it.

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25 minutes ago, alan_fincher said:

 

Have you bee able to investigate what is under those bits of flooring where you plan to build access hatches?  There has to be a reasonable chance that in some of the places the bilge will be filled by ballast, maybe something like paving slabs or brick.  I that's the case, you can't make storage of it.

Excellent point. I will certainly delve in shortly to confirm. I've not seen any ballast over the rest of the boat, but i suppose its dangerous to assume!

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10 hours ago, alan_fincher said:

 

Have you bee able to investigate what is under those bits of flooring where you plan to build access hatches?  There has to be a reasonable chance that in some of the places the bilge will be filled by ballast, maybe something like paving slabs or brick.  I that's the case, you can't make storage of it.

 

If there's ballast under the floor where you're cutting inspection hatches, depending on the ballast you can break it up with a lump hammer and cold chisel and take it out. But bilges generally don't make for very good storage areas anyway. 

11 hours ago, robtheplod said:

 I've had a look around but not been successful in finding a suitable product - do other have these and if so any pointers as to a supplier?   

 

I don't really understand what you mean? Perhaps I've misunderstood? If you want an access or inspection hatch in the floor there is no "product". You have to cut the hatch out and use the piece of floor you've cut out as the hatch lid. 

 

You simply drill 4 holes and connect with a jigsaw. If you cut it out with a jigsaw and can angle the blade then the lid can be self-supporting.

 

Make sure the hatch is going between the floor bearers and if you have to use a hammer to break to concrete slab ballast to get it out then as long as your hull is sound you'll be fine. It's not going to have any effect on a 10mm baseplate for example. Also do wear eye protection.

Edited by blackrose
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36 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

 

 

You simply drill 4 holes and connect with a jigsaw. If you cut it out with a jigsaw and can angle the blade then the lid can be self-supporting.

 

Doesn't look very attractive in the middle of the lounge floor. Maybe a nice stainless steel surround to the hole and trim of the lid, with maybe a recessed ring pull.

316 L st. steel hatch - Deck hatches - Deck hatches ...

Edited by ditchcrawler
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4 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Doesn't look very attractive in the middle of the lounge floor. Maybe a nice stainless steel surround to the hole and trim of the lid, with maybe a recessed ring pull.

 

Or something like this https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/innovative-and-reliable-floor-hatch-as_50026602261.html

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25 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

Doesn't look very attractive in the middle of the lounge floor. Maybe a nice stainless steel surround to the hole and trim of the lid, with maybe a recessed ring pull.

316 L st. steel hatch - Deck hatches - Deck hatches ...

 

Why would anyone want an inspection hatch in the middle of the lounge floor? It needs to be at the back of the cabin where any water would collect. Covered with a mat or under removable steps.

 

Potentially damp spaces are a bad idea for storage of most things, so storage in the bilges is usually a bad idea.

 

Edited by blackrose
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Thanks for the replies.... so looks like it needs to be a DIY job for a storage area. I just now need to double check if there is room...

 

Came across this for inspection points - seems quite a good solution:

 

10 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

Why would anyone want an inspection hatch in the middle of the lounge floor? It needs to be at the back of the cabin where any water would collect. Covered with a mat or under removable steps.

 

 

 

Often wondered about this. I do have holes at the rear of the boat where i can inspect (under the stairs). I thought most boats have sections across the boat that stop water flowing to the rear - it would have to rise above the floor and into the next section?  bit like Titanic's emergency doors!   Once I get the floor up i can confirm this - i might be talking rubbish.

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12 minutes ago, robtheplod said:

Thanks for the replies.... so looks like it needs to be a DIY job for a storage area. I just now need to double check if there is room...

 

Came across this for inspection points - seems quite a good solution:

Often wondered about this. I do have holes at the rear of the boat where i can inspect (under the stairs). I thought most boats have sections across the boat that stop water flowing to the rear - it would have to rise above the floor and into the next section?  bit like Titanic's emergency doors!   Once I get the floor up i can confirm this - i might be talking rubbish.

 

Any cross members should make provision for water to drain to the back. These are called limber holes. On a narrow boat they may well e just the ends of the cross members cut at an angle to allow water to drain around the bottom of the ends. This does not mean all boats are like this and some have used/used poured concrete or loose fill aggregate as ballast. Either will tend to stop water draining back.

 

FWIW JennyB had bulks of timber running front to back to support the floor as far as I could make out.

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If its any help a multi tool will be the easiest way to cut some trial hatches (use a bit of wood as a guide for a decent cut).

Screw/glue some battens around the hole to either become the  support for the lid or to enable you to put the bit of floor back in if it doesnt work out!

  • Greenie 1
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Turns out i do have ballast, just on one side of the boat - probably to compensate for the toilet tanks....  the depth is small so not really going to be useful for any storage but will make access holes along the side that doesn't have ballast. Thought about using deck access hatches as these will mostly be covered by furniture...

 

is there any benefit in introducing airflow into the bilge, as these lids could be left off as they wont be visible?

 

 

 

 

20221105_104535.jpg

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1 hour ago, robtheplod said:

 

is there any benefit in introducing airflow into the bilge, as these lids could be left off as they wont be visible?

 

 

 

 

20221105_104535.jpg

 

 

Id say very little as your floor bearers run across the boat preventing any useful airflow-you only have the limber holes to pass any air through one section to next.

On my own boat the floor bearers run the length of the boat so there is a clear 2 inch air gap virtually the width of the boat all the way down. I did this as my low level vents are also ducted to underfloor and any cold air coming in (low) from outside has to pass over my floor level copper central heating pipes into the cabins. All easy enough to do at build stage but not once fitted out.

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I've covered the original wood flooring with  heavy vinyl , armtico , eBay off cut £200. 

I cut it out roughly, and had paid assistance to finish it off, ( hot air drier , Stanley knife, silicone sealant.skirting board removed and replaced.

I'd tried carpet cut off which was not successful, as dirt ended up underneath . Make sure the floor is clean and smooth before laying.

Very happy with it.

Floor mopping about five times a week.

I have rugs in winter to ring the changes 

Edited by LadyG
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8 minutes ago, David Mack said:

Doesn't that mean you are losing heat to the air in your bilges?

Nope.The  Hull lining and insulation runs down to just above the cross steels and is further lined with 1/4 inch heatproof board.

The Outer timber floor bearer runs approx 3 inch parallel to the hull side so forms a continuous duct that is open at the bottom- I reckon any heat rising will give enough airflow to stop any heat loss going down. Or not enough to worry about anyhow.

Pic of the latest bit of refit so hasnt got a proper cover on just a bit of 70 x 20 to give you idea of what its supposed to be like finished.

 

20221106_120534.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
On 31/10/2022 at 08:30, tree monkey said:

Beacon Boats used to install under floor storage, not sure is @Ally will notice this but I'm sure she will help if she can

Sorry, only just seen this, so probably far too late to be helpful. If I can remember how here, I'll upload a photo.

We constructed our own, hinged lids with stays, made up of the wood flooring that would have been there, with framing. Wooden box with vents under. In one case we did a steel box as the customer wanted one by the stove for solid fuel. They only need the depth of veg, or, more likely , wine or beer bottles (eggs etc if sensible!!) Very very useful cold storage, wouldn't be without my own.

617123_528391510507898_283351207_o.jpg

466574_397281956952188_1440692764_o.jpg

  • Greenie 4
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