Jump to content

Water tank


Soozie

Featured Posts

Posted about this before, but now I have some pics. So the boat I took on needs its water tank conecting, including placement of a filler point. The previous owner obtained a plastic tank, placed it, and has placed  plumbing pipes along the boat intended to fit a shower, and conect to kitchen sink. Theres a gas boiler (not fitted) in the engine room ready to be installed, and gas pipes fitted. (obviously I would get a gas man). So really what im asking, for those with experience. Looking at my pics, how mych if an utter arse is alk this going to be, and does any one who may have embarked on such things before have any clue what this would cost? 

Going to be a slow project now covid lockdown work stopages killed our budget. 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/eYmbLeRsmE6q6sni7

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, mrsmelly said:

If the boat is a blank canvas and not yet fitted out its a doddle to diy.

Yeah, all open plan, no bathroom in yet. Like I say all pipes fitted. Just the jigsaw of connecting it all up. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Soozie said:

Yeah, all open plan, no bathroom in yet. Like I say all pipes fitted. Just the jigsaw of connecting it all up. 

There will be someone local to you to give you some pointers best just ask around.

  • Greenie 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Soozie said:

Theres a gas boiler (not fitted) in the engine room ready to be installed, and gas pipes fitted. (obviously I would get a gas man).

 

Its not the 'water tank' question but I pretty sure that you are not allowed to install a gas boiler in the engine room.

 

Maybe check with the BSS before spending money connecting it up.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Alan de Enfield said:

Its not the 'water tank' question but I pretty sure that you are not allowed to install a gas boiler in the engine room.

 

Maybe check with the BSS before spending money connecting it up.

I think (could be wrong) that OP simply meant that it's stored in the engine room at present, awaiting installation in its new home.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

Could be, maybe the OP will confirm one way or t'other.

Yes. Its sitting in the engine room wrapoed in a dust sheet, it was ibtended for instalation in the atea that will be the kitchen. I have a photo of its waiting conection point here. 

IMG_20200901_162843.jpg

35 minutes ago, Onewheeler said:

Looks an easy job as it's all accessible. Wouldn't like to suggest a price as it depends on the scope, eg. install pump, wiring etc.

Yes I will indeed need to install pumps, are they simple or complicated? 

  • Happy 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, Soozie said:

Yes. Its sitting in the engine room wrapoed in a dust sheet, it was ibtended for instalation in the atea that will be the kitchen. I have a photo of its waiting conection point here. 

 

 

Thank you :

Just didn't want you failing your safety checks having gone to all the trouble of installing it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 

Thank you :

Just didn't want you failing your safety checks having gone to all the trouble of installing it.

Yes Im terrified of it failing the BSS. Thats coming up. Not quite there with instaling that yet, more just looking to get the tank connected. Trying to make sense of the plumbing ?‍♀️

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plumbing for the tank goes:

Main Valve as close to tank as possible

Strainer to protect the pump

Pump

Cold supply Pipe  run from pump  to cold taps, non return valve then calorifier inlet and mixer valve cold inlet, shower cold inlet and washing machine if fitted.

Accumulator on a T fitting off the cold  pipe run.

Pressure switch on a T fitting off the cold pipe run.

From calorifier T fitting to pressure relief valve

T fitting to hot expansion tank.

Pipe run to hot inlet to mixer valve

From outlet of mixer valve to shower hot inlet and hot taps.

 

There have been several water system diagrams on here, and I would bet there is one on Tony Brooks site. tbtraining is a good term to google.

 

N

 

 

  • Happy 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few more pointers...

 

Ensure that the location of the shut-off valve, strainer, pressure switch, and pump will leave them accessible when all the furniture is built.

Attach the pump to the rest of the plumbing with two flexible lines (helps with long life and noise).

Ensure that the cable size is suitable for powering the pump, taking into account cable length and voltage drop.

Fit a pipe to the outlet of the PRV and route it either to the engine bilge or to a skin fitting. They occasionally dribble.

 

Enjoy it :)

  • Happy 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, Ex Brummie said:

What boat is it that you have? That tank looks quite small for a narrowboat. A lot of what Bengo has suggested may be over the top for a small system.

Its a 70ft. Can never remember the builder off hand.. Begins with H. I literally have no clue in tank sizes.  Not sure what it would hold. 

IMG_20200831_190804_399.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, BEngo said:

The plumbing for the tank goes:

Main Valve as close to tank as possible

Strainer to protect the pump

Pump

Cold supply Pipe  run from pump  to cold taps, non return valve then calorifier inlet and mixer valve cold inlet, shower cold inlet and washing machine if fitted.

Accumulator on a T fitting off the cold  pipe run.

Pressure switch on a T fitting off the cold pipe run.

From calorifier T fitting to pressure relief valve

T fitting to hot expansion tank.

Pipe run to hot inlet to mixer valve

From outlet of mixer valve to shower hot inlet and hot taps.

 

There have been several water system diagrams on here, and I would bet there is one on Tony Brooks site. tbtraining is a good term to google.

 

N

 

 

And how does that tie in with a gas waterheater?

 

2 hours ago, BEngo said:

The plumbing for the tank goes:

Main Valve as close to tank as possible

Strainer to protect the pump

Pump

Cold supply Pipe  run from pump  to cold taps, non return valve then calorifier inlet and mixer valve cold inlet, shower cold inlet and washing machine if fitted.

Accumulator on a T fitting off the cold  pipe run.

Pressure switch on a T fitting off the cold pipe run.

From calorifier T fitting to pressure relief valve

T fitting to hot expansion tank.

Pipe run to hot inlet to mixer valve

From outlet of mixer valve to shower hot inlet and hot taps.

 

There have been several water system diagrams on here, and I would bet there is one on Tony Brooks site. tbtraining is a good term to google.

 

N

 

 

And how does that tie in with a gas waterheater?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Soozie said:

I literally have no clue in tank sizes.

A litre is 1000 cubic centimetres. So measure the width, height, and depth in cm, multiply them all together and divide by 1000. That’s how many litres your tank can hold. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, WotEver said:

A litre is 1000 cubic centimetres. So measure the width, height, and depth in cm, multiply them all together and divide by 1000. That’s how many litres your tank can hold. 

This is the question I was to embarrased to ask my daughter last weej when she visited. Shes doing a math and physics degree at leeds.. She so would have rolled her eyesat me ?????‍♀️. Thankyou. ??

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, mrsmelly said:

If the boat is a blank canvas and not yet fitted out its a doddle to diy.

 

The OP has already said she would not fit the gas boiler herself (quite right too, unless she holds Gas Safe registration). I strongly dissuade anyone else from attempting a DIY gas installation. The water pipes are a different matter, but two factors are vital: (1) knowledge and (2) confidence. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Alan de Enfield said:

And every 1000 litres weighs a ton (1000 kgs)

 

1 hour ago, ditchcrawler said:

One of those foreign tons, not a real English one which is full size 2240lbs

 

1000 litres of water do not weigh a ton. They weigh a tonne. The UK has been using SI units since the mid-1960s. 

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

A litre is 1000 cubic centimetres. So measure the width, height, and depth in cm, multiply them all together and divide by 1000. That’s how many litres your tank can hold. 

 

If she measures them in metres the calculation is simply length by width by height, giving m³, or tonnes (take your pick, although we are assuming pure water at 4°C). No faffing about with conversions or even decimal points. That's the beauty of SI units - it is a consistent system.

 

 

Edited by Machpoint005
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just to reiterate, I may not know alot about connecting a water tank, but I am very aware on gas saftey, and the need for profesionals to fit such items. 

 

I may not have put this question across very well, the main thrust was to obtain a friendly chat about what may be required. My partner is tradesman, mainly tiling now. But in the past serving an apprenticeship with a house renovator hes picked up good basic plumbing skills, but has obviously never done this on a boat. 

 

So to put worries at rest, I was never goung to attempt blowing the boat up, I like it too much for that. 

  • Greenie 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.