Thom Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Hi all, I've recently fitted a new Jabsco parmax 4 water pump and 5l accumulator. Now whenever the pump is turned on it sounds like a helicopter is landing on the boat, the noise is coming from down the side of the boat rather than the pump itself. The pump is on its rubber feet which I've loosened and has flexible pipe connecting it to the main water pipes. I've also played around with changing the angle of the pump to reduce vibration noise. When I reach down and touch the cold water flow I can't feel it vibrating excessively. Through online research it sounds like a water hammer and I have followed all the suggested steps in trying to remove the air from the system but couldn't find instructions for a boat and don't think that simply turning the cold water feed off and leaving the pump on will clear the pipes. Additionally the parmax 4 is higher rated than the pump I took out and doesn't seem to be very powerful, it won't power my bathroom and kitchen taps at the same time, I'm not sure if this is connected to the noise. Any insights would be gratefully recieved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Loose pipe tapping on the boat hull or lining? Pipes copper or plastic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted May 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 This was my first thought. Plastic pipes which I have since insulated for this very reason. No affect unfortunately Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulD Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Is there any restriction on the tank side? Valve not fully open, frog in the pipe, spiders in the air vent? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGoat Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Has the accumulator been set - pressure wise. Some need to be pumped up with a little air before the first use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted May 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 14 minutes ago, PaulD said: Is there any restriction on the tank side? Valve not fully open, frog in the pipe, spiders in the air vent? Valve and air vent ok, haven't performed a frog test So I assumed this came set and haven't touched it but I will try and adjust it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 40 minutes ago, Thom said: don't think that simply turning the cold water feed off and leaving the pump on will clear the pipes. To clear the air you need the cold water feed turned ON, the pump on and the taps open. 42 minutes ago, Thom said: Additionally the parmax 4 is higher rated than the pump I took out and doesn't seem to be very powerful, it won't power my bathroom and kitchen taps at the same time, If you have a more powerful pump but you are getting less water, then something has gone wrong. Is the valve on the tank outlet fully open? Is there a blockage somewhere in the pipes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted May 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 15 minutes ago, David Mack said: To clear the air you need the cold water feed turned ON, the pump on and the taps open. If you have a more powerful pump but you are getting less water, then something has gone wrong. Is the valve on the tank outlet fully open? Is there a blockage somewhere in the pipes? Agreed, I'll check for blockages. When I have all the taps open I'll only get water out of the bathroom taps which are slightly higher flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebotco Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 If you have no pressure in the accumulator, maybe the first few minutes are mainly filling it. Or does the pressure remain inadequate even after some time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted May 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Yeah it's pretty inadequate all the time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Has anyone suggested the pump inlet strainer be checked for blockage/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
system 4-50 Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Does the more powerful pump need heavier wiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 5 minutes ago, system 4-50 said: Does the more powerful pump need heavier wiring? Possibly but not having it would cause volt drop and that in turn would reduce the motor speed so all I think it would do is to cause the motor to overheat/blow a fuse. I can't see it causing water hammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thom Posted May 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 44 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said: Has anyone suggested the pump inlet strainer be checked for blockage/ That was also changed, thanks Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulD Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Do you have a flexible hose on the suction / tank side? Potentially it can collapse under negative pressure depending what type it is e.g. cheap tap connector hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 A bit off the wall but most likely things have been tried. A new pump so could its cut out pressure be higher by design or mistake. If so could the water hammer be the calorifier PRV bouncing because the cut out pressure is too close to the PRV opening pressure. have a look at the PRV outlet while its happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDS Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 Are your flexible pump connections "full bore" or are they typical tap connectors which have reduced bore in either pipe or fittings ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted May 12, 2020 Report Share Posted May 12, 2020 4 hours ago, Tony Brooks said: A bit off the wall but most likely things have been tried. A new pump so could its cut out pressure be higher by design or mistake. If so could the water hammer be the calorifier PRV bouncing because the cut out pressure is too close to the PRV opening pressure. have a look at the PRV outlet while its happening. I reckon you have it there Tony, PRV is likely to cause a hammering noise if bouncing off its seat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted May 13, 2020 Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 13 hours ago, Tracy D'arth said: I reckon you have it there Tony, PRV is likely to cause a hammering noise if bouncing off its seat. But surely not low pressure from the taps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted May 13, 2020 Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 (edited) 12 minutes ago, WotEver said: But surely not low pressure from the taps? I agree the symptoms sound more like an inlet blockage but the OP had had a chance to check that so I just gave another possible. I suppose its even possible he has a rouge pump that is only pumping on one of its 3 or 4 pumping chambers once all the obvious things have been checked.I also wonder if the accumulator pressure is so high its not actually accumulating and damping pressure pulses but checking the pressure has already been suggested. At least checking its not the PRV is quick and easy as long as you know where its outlet is. On my boat the bathroom taps would stop if the kitchen ones were fully open and I know from my garage days that a customer's description of symptoms can include existing niggles that they assume are related to the main problem so I do not totally accept the low flow rate is a new phenomenon. Edited May 13, 2020 by Tony Brooks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted May 13, 2020 Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 38 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said: I know from my garage days that a customer's description of symptoms can include existing niggles that they assume are related to the main problem so I do not totally accept the low flow rate is a new phenomenon. Good point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opener Posted May 16, 2020 Report Share Posted May 16, 2020 Maybe take a step further back down the line. How does air get into the water tank to replace water taken out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alistair1537 Posted May 17, 2020 Report Share Posted May 17, 2020 20 hours ago, Opener said: Maybe take a step further back down the line. How does air get into the water tank to replace water taken out? Or, why did you replace the pump at all? What was the old pump's failings? Maybe it's that, and a new pump is amplifying a problem better? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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