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IDS last won the day on April 24 2011

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  1. I have a Jabsco type which is now over 30 yrs old, and has gone through a number of service kits in its life ( and last year a skim of the bronze pump chamber end suurfaces to remove wear grooving) I would happily buy a replacement at £150 for the peace of mind. These will self prime to between 1 and 2 metres (which means if it fails you don't need to manually bail out the shower tray before removing it from the drain pipework to fix it ! ). If you expect your pump to deal with the crud, hair, garbage and grit that you get from a shower, and last for longer than 5 showers you will need to spend decent money on it and get one designed for the job, whatever the manufacturer.
  2. Is the friidge still in warranty, if so get in touch with the supplier before you do anything else. The compressor motor is controlled by a thermostat. Does turning the thermostat up to a higher (or maximum) setting make the compressor spring into life. Thermostats can go faulty or out of calibration, and are replaceable sometimes at minimal cost. If the compressor runs and the fridge doesn't get cold then you need specialist services to fix it. If it is a '240v only' unit, and you are sure you have reliable supply to your socket, (which sounds likely if the internal light always comes on) then get in touch with the manufacturer customer services dept.
  3. To give us some confidence, has anyone recorded one breaking due to a human ? Mine didn't break, but I did discover that they were held on by aluminium pop rivets ! Now replaced with bolts.
  4. Sorry Hanorient, just spotted your post. I don't have info on water pump to hand, but you should be able to find this from a Mitsubishi base engine parts list. The starter alternator was a 50A Mitsubishi, part no 31A68-00402, and the number A7T02071C also appears on the unit which I think is for the brushes. The aux alternator is a 70A 12v, I'll look for some ID next time I'm there if you wish. . Photos shows arrangement of belts if that helps. PM me if you need more info.
  5. For our last survey first surveyor approached said nobody to be present. The next one I approached said it was fine. You'd have to be realistic and keep your distance and let them do their job, especially regarding Covid precautions, but this is all possible, even if only outside the vessel. It is valuable and instructive to be present and have some interaction with the surveyor when the boat is in front of you. Especially in relation to hull condition and recommendations about remedial actions. These guys see a lot of boats and the ones I have used are willing to share their observations. You are paying after all, so you can choose.
  6. It depends on the type of trap you fit, the one illustrated is OK
  7. The trap allows the drain to exit the hull further up away from the waterline
  8. See the hints and tips page on the craftmaster website if you are considering the traditional coach painting route, a good summary of the various elements of the whole process. Others will advise various short cuts depending on the results you wish to achieve. On something the size of a narrowboat then get to know which power tools you will need to save time and elbow grease (eg angle grinder with clean and strip discs for rust, and RO sander for dealing with painting large panel areas, are typical minimum to save a lot of time) Most paints are british standard colours, but they all fade. If your existing paint is more than a few years old it will be a different colour now from what came out of the tin originally, so colour matching is an interesting concept.
  9. I'd recommend debdale zinc spraying. Did our 1988 hull about 7 years ago.
  10. For the angle grinder method, where the dust is really unbelieveably bad, find someone to lend, or hire a positive pressure hood and visor. This provides fresh filtered air from a battery powered fan and filter normally worn on your waist and a flexi pipe to the visor to supply the air. When working in the tank the pipe is just long enough to position fan/filter outside the tank. Advantages are you can breath fresh air, you can see better, not so claustrophobic, and it keeps your face cool. It's still not a good experience but it is much better than without. Be prepared to spend a long time cleaning the kit before you give it back to its owner !
  11. I've had a caving rope (low stretch - braided sheath) go very stiff, and I never got it to handle well after that even after washing. I have heard that fabric softener in the wash should help. I think it might be due to some kind of shrinkage of the braiding, in which case it is never going to improve.
  12. I have one of these table top fridges languishing in my garage you can have if you want. It is generic Chinese model,with compressor, that a lot of companies brand with their own label, retail about £80. The label claims A+efficiency. It has had 6 months use to keep our museum stewards milk in for their tea, then it went faulty and was replaced under warranty. They didn't want the old unit back. I put a replacement thermostat in it to fix it, and was holding it as a spare, but really have no use for it. PM me if you want it, it will be very cheap! (Can send a photo tomorrow.)
  13. IDS

    Water hammer

    Are your flexible pump connections "full bore" or are they typical tap connectors which have reduced bore in either pipe or fittings ?
  14. The drain tap typically doesn't get the last 10 litres out of the tank !
  15. There are a variety of 'pipe cleaning brush' products on EBAY,
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