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Check oil pump for wear, recons are available.

Check thermostat works.

Check drive plate.

Inspect water pump.

Inspect core plugs for corrosion.

Replace injector top hats (shields)  and all copper washers

Beg, buy, borrow 5/8" AF crow foot spanner/socket.

 

Don't skim the head unless it is obviously warped, unlikely.

Use a smear of Blue Hylomar compound around all waterway ports in the head and block, both sides of the gasket.

Clean and oil all threads that are to be torqued especially head nuts.

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Dear Sir.

I am really grateful for your opinion. 

I wished you lived near rhyl north Wales.

The problem I have is

a) my experience on this engine

b) cost.

Bill has thrown away literally hundreds of pounds paying people who have done nothing..

The last chap was taking £50 A week for nearly 3 months.

I buggered them off .

I managed to get the engine running sweetly enough.

It has had the injectors done.

Engine and water flush put through it new filters oil etc.

I do not feel competent enough to tackle big end bearings etc. New starter.

 

He then went fishing with his son and when they left it they did not leave bilge pump switched on.

The new starter has had to be refurbished as it ended up under water.

My services are free of charge and I am teaching myself with the aid of the manual and online.

Unfortunately I have retired due to ill health and can only do so much.

Bill is 72 had major open heart surgery 2 years ago.

He has only managed to get 6 trips out in 2 years after spending a fortune.

It's not fair.

All the best

Les

 

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23 minutes ago, les trickett said:

Dear Sir.

I am really grateful for your opinion. 

I wished you lived near rhyl north Wales.

The problem I have is

a) my experience on this engine

b) cost.

Bill has thrown away literally hundreds of pounds paying people who have done nothing..

The last chap was taking £50 A week for nearly 3 months.

I buggered them off .

I managed to get the engine running sweetly enough.

It has had the injectors done.

Engine and water flush put through it new filters oil etc.

I do not feel competent enough to tackle big end bearings etc. New starter.

 

He then went fishing with his son and when they left it they did not leave bilge pump switched on.

The new starter has had to be refurbished as it ended up under water.

My services are free of charge and I am teaching myself with the aid of the manual and online.

Unfortunately I have retired due to ill health and can only do so much.

Bill is 72 had major open heart surgery 2 years ago.

He has only managed to get 6 trips out in 2 years after spending a fortune.

It's not fair.

All the best

Les

 

A story too often repeated I'm sad to say.

 

If the engine starts easily, does not knock or smoke excessively, has no serious leaks and does not overheat, I would leave it as is.

These are tough old units, its lasted this long, it should go on a lot longer.

 

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This sounds like a salt water boat new so if the starter was submerged it is that much worse. What are the symptoms of a problem starter. If its just "its been full of sea water" then I think I would submerge it  many times in tap water, stand it on the pinion end in a warm place overnight and then put in a very low oven for 24 hours. If it is now unreliable then its probably easier to take it off and get it overhauled rather than try to strip it yourself although once you have the knack of lodging the brush springs on the  side of the brushes for reassembly (if its that type of motor) its easy enough. There are only two problems.

 

1. On some installations one starter bolt is a pig, removing the oil filter assembly and using a long socket extension sorts that.

2. Very, very early 1.5Ds had a two bolt fixing starter. If yours is one of these then unless it can be overhauled I fear the engine will need changing.

 

You gave me the impression that you had a fair idea about what you are doing and only wanted to do certain things. Although I agree with Sam and BEngo that good practice dictates the lists if the engine is out, as I think it would have to be to do the sump gasket, you are not doing it on a professional, paid for,  basis so best practice does not really come into it. Also, I am sorry to say, it is very likely that the owner will never get the advantage of a full check and overhaul so I do not think you need to do everything on those lists as long as the engine is running well enough. Without seeing the engine I can't know what is vital and what is not but as long as you have drained and flushed the gearbox and engine oils a few times to purge any water that got into it and done the things we listed right at the start of this topic I think you can ignore the rest as long as Bill   can be made to fully understand it is not a professional job and the long term reliability MIGHT be in question.

 

Edited by Tony Brooks

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Just one question - how long did they leave the boat with the bilge pump off before the starter motor was under water? If it was less than a few weeks then the reason for so much water ingress really needs attending to. 

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It was quite a few weeks the back of the boat is open to the elements and we had quite a few storms in hothead.

The start is sat right down in the bilges 

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13 minutes ago, les trickett said:

It was quite a few weeks the back of the boat is open to the elements and we had quite a few storms in hothead.

The start is sat right down in the bilges 

Fair enough :)

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I think that was supposed to be Holyhead?

 

If the water only covered the starter motor it won't have got into the engine, the lowest hole is the side cover breather and a tiny hole in the fuel pump body.

But it may have got into the gearbox, worth a check to see if the oil is milky when its been running.

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17 minutes ago, les trickett said:

It was quite a few weeks the back of the boat is open to the elements and we had quite a few storms in hothead.

The start is sat right down in the bilges 

It is true that some 1.5s had the starter solenoid hanging vertically down below the motor but later end brackets could be fitted to turn the solenoid to about10 o'clock. If you have the former type maybe talk to a local specialist to see if they can change the end bracket to lift the solenoid clear of the bilge

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We have one problem the vertical filter  is okay but the horizontal one will not tighten up.

It was loose when I can e to it.

Will page be okay or do I need to  helicoil it

15525689978314286530780721279703.jpg

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That's an oilway blank, not a filler. Pretty sure it's going to have oil pump pressure behind it

 

Richard

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14 minutes ago, les trickett said:

We have one problem the vertical filter  is okay but the horizontal one will not tighten up.

It was loose when I can e to it.

Will page be okay or do I need to  helicoil it

15525689978314286530780721279703.jpg  

 

 

Not being funny but who or what is Will page?

 

If you are talking about the vertical hexagon just above the right angle in the oil gallery then it is the oil jet and it will have oil pump pressure behind it so I think it will need a helicoil if the thread is stripped in the block. Take care, I have a very faint memory of the thread being finer than normal UNF.

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Many thanks for all your input.

Taking off side covers and sump the engine looks nice and clean . Oil getting to all the important parts.

Think there maybe a little bit escaping through the valves but it is not smoking does a bit on start up but settles down.

Hopefully my friend is lucky with this engine.

He deserves a bit of luck after all the wide  boys that have taken him for a ride.

Boating is not my thing but if it makes him happy I will do the steering while he does the fishing

  • Greenie 1

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